Clariant FinishingCraft or Science 艺术还是科学 Experience Counts 依赖经验

CraftorScience?

艺术还是科学?ExperienceCounts!

依赖经验！ClariantFinishingBasicsCrustLeatherCanLookVeryNice....SoWhyDoWeFinishLeather?

皮坯也可能看上去非常好...那为什么要对皮革进行涂饰Toaltertheappearanceandfeeling

改变外观和手感Fashionrequirements

流行要求Customerrequirements

客户要求Toprotectandimpartfastnessproperties

保护和赋予坚牢度性能Longlastingarticle!

经久耐用Toupgrade!

提高等级CoveringFaults

覆盖缺陷IncreasingcuttingYield

增加出裁率HistoryofFinishing–Milestones

涂饰的历史-里程碑Oil&WaxFinishes

油蜡涂饰ProteinFinishes

酪素涂饰AcrylicBinders

丙烯酸树脂PolyurethaneBinders

聚氨酯树脂Casein-freePigments

无酪颜料膏Water-BasedTopCoats

水性顶涂FoamFinishing

发泡涂饰StuccoUpgrading

补伤膏提升等级CationicFinish

阳离子涂饰RollerCoating

辊涂Reverserollercoatingforsoftleathers

软革反向辊涂Water-basedFinishing

水性涂饰Solvent-freeProducts

不含溶剂的产品HeavyMetal-freePigments

不含重金属的颜料膏FocusonEnvironmentallyFriendyProducts

专注于环保产品ClariantFinishingBrands?

科莱恩的涂饰品牌MELIO 树脂/助剂/光油...NEOSAN 颜料膏

AQUALEN 水光/聚氨酯光体系

DifferentFinishingForDifferentTypesOfLeather

针对不同的皮革类型使用不同的涂饰GarmentNappa

软服装Brush-off–ShoeUpper

擦色-鞋面Nubuk/Suede

磨砂/二层绒面OilPullUp

油变Waterproof

防水Vegetable

植鞣革BoxLeather

平纹革PatentLeather

开边珠AutomotiveLeather

汽车革WhiteSportsShoe

白色运动鞋革SofaLeather

沙发革PigskinGarment

猪皮服装革Nappalan

绵羊肉面涂饰革GlazedGoat

山羊打光革Pigments

颜料Waxes

蜡Oils

油Fillers

填料Caseins/Proteins

酪素/蛋白Mattingagents

消光剂Water

水Binders

树脂/成膜剂Feelagents

手感剂Flowmodifiers

流平剂RheologyModifiers

流变改进剂/增稠剂Penetrators

渗透剂Solvents

溶剂Dyestuffs

染料PropertyModifiers

性能改进剂CrossLinkers

交联剂pHModifiers pH改进剂TheBuildingBlocks

-Productgroupsusedinfinishing

涂饰所用产品NotesOnBindingMaterials

粘合材料的说明WhatIsAThermoplasticBinder?

何为热塑性树脂？StretchingAndFlexingPropertiesOfFilmVaryWithTemperature

膜的延伸和曲折性能随温度变化而不同HighBindingPower

粘合能力强Acrylic

丙烯酸Polyurethane

聚氨酯Butadiene

丁二烯WhatIsANon-thermoplasticBinder?

何为非热塑性树脂？FilmIsHardIndependentOfTemperature

膜硬并不随温度变化而变化LowBindingPower

粘合能力弱Casein/Protein

酪素/蛋白Nitrocellulose

硝化棉CelluloseAcetylButyrate(CAB)

醋酸丁酯纤维素WatchTheSolidContentsInBothCases!

注意它们的固含量！DesigningTheProcess-RecipeCombination

工艺流程和配方的设计CheckTheCrust!

检查皮坯！StudyTheTargetArticleKeypoints

研究目标产品的关键性能DetermineWhichProductsCanOrCannotBeUsed

确定哪些产品可以使用，哪些不能使用CheckTheKeySpecificationsToBeMet

检查所要达到的关键要求CheckWhichMachinesAreAvailable

检查有哪些设备可以使用Goal:QuickAndCheap!

目标：快速、便宜AsFewOperationsAsPossible

尽可能少的操作FormulationsAsSimpleAsPossible

尽可能简单的配方BeforeYouStart-CheckTheCrust!

开始前-检查皮坯！Colour

颜色Stretchiness

延伸性Looseness

松面情况Softness

柔软度Fullness/Emptiness

丰满/空状况Graindamage

粒面损伤FibreLength(ifbuffedorsnuffed) 绒毛长短(如果磨面)BuffingDust

磨革灰尘Greasiness

油腻状况Absorption

吸收性StudyTheTargetArticle

研究目标产品AreYouWorkingOnTheSameTypeOfCrust? BuffaloDoesn‘tHaveACalfGrain!

是在同一类皮坯上吗？水牛不会有小牛的粒面！IsItFullyPigmentedOrAniline?

重颜料遮盖还是苯胺涂饰？DoesItHaveASpecialEffect?

有特殊效应吗？IsItBuffed?

磨面的吗？RubIt,PeelIt,BurnIt,PutItUnderTheLens!

擦擦它，摸摸它的手感，烧烧它，在放大镜下看看！PossibleProductRestrictions?

可能的产品限制?SomeProducts:

一些产品：Yellow(WithHeatOrLight)

黄变(光，热)BreakDownUnderCertainConditions(Eg.PU-HydrolysisProblems,NC-withPUFoam)

在特定条件下降解(如:聚氨酯-耐水解问题，硝化棉-发泡聚氨酯中)ContainBannedSubstances(HeavyMetals,SolventsEtc.)

含禁用品(重金属,溶剂)MigrateIntoPVC

PVC迁移CauseFogging(Automotive)

引起雾化(汽车革)HaveCompatibilityProblems(EvenWater!) 有相容性问题(甚至水)AreTooExpensive!

太贵AreNotAvailableAtTheMoment!

目前没有CompromiseBetweenProperties,AvailaibiltyAndCost!

综合考虑性能、易得性和成本！CheckTheTargetSpecifications

检查目标产品的要求Aesthetics

美感Optic

外观Colour

颜色SurfaceFeel/Touch

表面手感Handle

身骨Gloss

光亮度PhysicalProperties

物性Adhesion

粘着RubFastness

耐干湿擦AbrasionResistance

耐磨耗Flexibility

耐曲折LightFastness

耐光MigrationFastness

迁移性WaterVapourPermeability 透水汽性WaterProofness

防水性Water-spotResistance

耐水滴性SoilingResistance

防污性HydrolysisResistance

耐水解CheckTheAvailableMachines/Equipment

检查可供使用的机器/设备FinishApplicationMachine

涂饰应用设备DryingTunnel(Temp&Length)

干燥设备(温度和长度)Embossing

压花设备Plating

烫平设备Ironing(Roto/Finiflex)

烫光设备Buffing

磨革设备Polishing(Stone/Felt)

抛光设备(石轮/毛轮)Glazing

打光设备DryShaving

干削设备DryMilling

摔软设备StackingMethod

震软方式MethodsOfApplication

涂饰应用方式Spray

喷涂Air

气压喷枪Airless

无气喷枪AirAssistant/Airmix

气体辅助喷枪HVLP

高容量低气压喷枪RollerCoater

辊涂机Reverse

反向/逆向辊涂机Forward(Synchro)

同向/正向辊涂机CurtainCoater

帘幕涂饰机TransferCoater

移膜涂饰机DifferentHandSprayGuns

不同类型的喷枪

AirAirMix/HVLPAirlessOperatingPrinciple

工作原理SprayGun喷枪CurtainCoat帘幕涂饰OperatingPrinciple

工作原理RollerCoater滚涂Autospray

自动喷浆机Autospray

自动喷浆机RollerCoater

辊涂机ReverseRollerCoaterSynchroRollerCoater反向辊涂机 同向辊涂机CurtainCoater

帘幕涂饰机TransferCoater

移膜涂饰机RELEASEPAPER离型纸DETACHFINISHEDSPLIT成品二层皮剥离ADHESIVE粘着层SPLIT二层底膜中间膜烘道烘道烘道Formulating–DependsOnCoat

配方-取决于哪一层Impregnation

干填充Pre-groundsOrAdhesionCoat

预底涂或粘着层BaseCoats

底涂IntermediateLacquers

中间光油层TopCoats

顶涂层FeelCoats

手感层Flesh-sideCoats

肉面涂层PullUps

拉伸变色效应层Example:FormulatingTheBaseCoat-StartingPoint:

举例：底涂配方-起始点Non-filmFormers–MustBe„Bound“

不成膜100GPigmentMix 100克 颜料膏50GWax 50克 蜡剂50GCasein(protein) 50克 酪素/蛋白50GFiller/MattingAgent 50克 填料/消光剂Carrier

载体250GWater(AffectsFilmForming!) 250克 水Binders

粘合剂/树脂50GAdhesionBinder(KEY!!!!) 50克 粘着性树脂150GMainBinder(Acrylic) 150克 主要树脂(丙烯酸)50GPropertyBinder(PU) 50克 物性树脂(聚氨酯)50gSpecialPropertyBinder 50克 特殊物性树脂

(E.G.Water-resistance) (如：抗水性)Additives,

添加剂5GFlowAgent 5克 流平剂10GViscosityAgent 10克 增稠剂10gFeelAgent 10克 手感剂10gPenetrator 10克 渗透剂2gCrossLinker 2克 交联剂NoteOnThePigmentMix

混合颜料膏要点PigmentCharacteristics 颜料膏特性WhitesAndIronOxidesGiveGoodOpacity,GoodCovering, GoodFastnessAndNeedMoreBinding!

白色和氧化铁具有很好的不透明性，好的遮盖性， 好的物性，需要更多的粘合OrganicPigmentsAreMoreTransparent,HavePoorCovering Power,PoorLightFastness.

有机颜料膏更透明，遮盖性差，耐光性差WatchOutForPigmentsWhichContainDyeTinters!

注意有些颜料有用染料调色头OrganicRedsDestroyButadieneFilms!

有机红色颜料会破坏丁二烯膜Casein-containingVs.Casein-free?

含酪素还是不含酪素？ColourMatching 配色UseComputerColourMatchingAsAnAidOnly!

电脑配色仅作为辅助工具Don‘tUseSmallAmountsOfOrganicPigmentsTo„Tune“TheShade.

不要使用少量的有机颜料来调色头NotesOnCompactBinders

综合树脂的要点WhatisaCompactBinder? 什么是综合树脂

CombinationsOfAdditives(Wax,Filleretc.)AndBinders

调配好的添加剂(蜡剂，填料)和粘合剂KeyPoint:Stability(Viscosity&Layering)

关键：稳定性(稠度和分层)TrueCompact

真正的综合树脂JustAddWaterAndPigment!

只需要加入水和颜料DesignTheProcess(Example:Sofa)

工艺流程设计(以沙发革为例)PossibleSteps:

可能的步骤SynchroRollerCoatPreGroundX1正向辊涂预底涂1次RotoPlate

滚压AirlessSprayBaseCoatX1

无气喷枪喷底涂1次Emboss

压花Milling

摔软SprayColourCoatX1

喷颜色层1次SprayTopCoatX2

喷顶涂2次Considerations:

需要考虑到：Simplicity=CostSavings!!

简单=节约成本PossibleColourChanges

可能的颜色变化IntercoatAdhesion

涂层间粘着PrintDefinition

压花定型Sofness

柔软度ThingsToWatchInApplication

应用时应注意的事项Alwaysstirtheproductsbeforeuse!

化工材料使用前总是搅匀Alwayswatchcarefullyasyoumakethefinishsolution

在配料时应仔细观察Makeityourself!

自己配料Checkcompatibility

检查材料相容性ALWAYS,ALWAYSFilterTheFinishSolution!!!!!!!!!

配好的涂饰混合液切记一定要过滤Always,AlwaysTrySmallPiecesFirst–ScaleUpGradually!

一定要先试小块—逐步放大Always,AlwaysGetGoodAdhesion! 一定要得到良好的粘着WatchTheAmountOfFinishApplied!

注意究竟有多少应用量WatchTheFlow-out观察流平性WatchTheFilmForming观察成膜性AdjustSpeedWithWater,Solvent,DryingConditions

通过水,溶剂,干燥条件调节成膜速度WatchTheDryingConditions观察干燥条件Tooquick->cracking

太快---裂浆Tooslow->non-continuousfilmorfloatingofpigmentsetc.

太慢—成膜不连续,涂料流动等Tackiness发粘TooMuchWax,FillerLeadsToPoorProperties!

太多的蜡和填料会导致物性差ThingsToWatchInApplication

应用时应注意的事项Embossing/PlatingMachinery

压花/压平板机HydraulicPlate

Rotopress

液压式压花机 滚烫/熨烫机ThingsToWatchInEmbossing(Plating)

压花(压平板)应注意事项EveryMachineIsDifferent!每一台机器都不一样！ WhenToEmboss?

何时压花Temperature&Pressure

温度和压力 IntercoatAdhesionProblems

涂层间粘着问题 Cut-throughProblems

切浆问题PlateRelease

离板性PrintRetention

压花定型性FinishCharacteristics

涂层的性能CrustCharacteristics

皮坯的性能SmallPiecesNotSameAsBigPiece!

小块和大张是不同的FilmAndLeatherDry?Really?

涂层和皮革干了？真的？Remember!

切记！SuccessfulFinishingDepends:成功的涂饰依赖