针织学(双语)课件Chapter4(PPT 51页)

1、Chapter 4The four primary base weft knitted structures1第1页，共51页。4.1 Introduction 引言Four primary structuresPlain 纬平针Rib 罗纹Interlock 双罗纹,棉毛Purl 双反面2第2页，共51页。4.1 Introduction 引言Four machinesSingle-jersey machines 单面机Rib machines 罗纹机Interlock machines 双罗纹机,棉毛机Purl machines 双反面机3第3页，共51页。4.2 Plain struct

2、ure 纬平针组织IntroductionHosiery 长袜Fully fashioned knitwear 全成形针织品Single-jersey fabrics 单面针织物Used in the follow products4第4页，共51页。IntroductionTechnical faceSmoothHaving the appearance of columns of Vs in wales.5第5页，共51页。IntroductionTechnical backHaving the appearance of columns of interlocking semi-circ

3、les.6第6页，共51页。IntroductionThe propertiesUnrove 横向脱散Laddering 纵向脱散7第7页，共51页。IntroductionThe propertiescurl/卷边stretching/拉伸8第8页，共51页。IntroductionThe properties3-dimensional structure9第9页，共51页。4.2.1 Production of single-jersey fabric/单面针织物 on a circular latch needle machine/舌针圆机Cone 纱筒Overhead bobbin s

4、tand 机顶纱架Free-standing creel 落地纱架Winding-down mechanism 牵拉卷取机构10第10页，共51页。Compared with the rib machineSimpler and more economicalMore feedersHigher running speedsKnitting a wider range of yarn counts11第11页，共51页。4.2.1.1 The knitting head 编织机构Yarn feeder guide /导纱器Latch needle /舌针Holding-down sinker

5、/握持沉降片Needle cylinder /针筒Cylinder driving wheel /针筒托盘Cylinder driving gear /针筒传动齿轮 Sinker-operating cams /沉降片三角 Sinker cam-cap /沉降片三角座12第12页，共51页。9.Sinker trick ring /沉降片圆环10.Needle-retaining spring /箍簧11.Needle-operating cams /织针三角12.Cam-box /三角座13.Cam-plate /三角底板14.Head plate /针筒底盘15.Cylinder driv

6、ing pinion/小齿轮 attached to the main drive shaft/主传动轴13第13页，共51页。4.2.1.2 The knitting action 成圈过程Rest positionClearing Yarn feedingKnock-overHolding-down14第14页，共51页。4.2.1.3 The cam system 三角系统Clearing cam /退圈三角Stitch cam /弯纱三角,成圈三角Upthrow cam /回针三角6.Guard cam /护针三角Return cam /回针三角The needle cam race

7、针三角轨道15第15页，共51页。Race cam /平轨道三角Sinker-withdrawing cam /沉降片挺出三角Sinker-return cam /沉降片回退三角The sinker cam race 沉降片三角轨道16第16页，共51页。4.2.1.4 Sinker timing 沉降片对位Push point: The most forward position of the sinker during the knitting cycle. Sinker timing: The relationship between the push point and the nee

8、dles. 17第17页，共51页。4.3 Rib structure 罗纹组织The simplest rib fabric is 11 rib.18第18页，共51页。Characteristics of ribHas a vertical cord/凸条 appearanceMore expensive to produce than plainBe elastic, form-fitting/适体, and retain warmth /保暖better than plain Requires finer yarn than a similar gauge/机号 plain machi

9、ne19第19页，共51页。Properties of 11 ribHas the appearance of the technical face of plain fabric on both sides without stretchRelaxes by approximately 30 per cent compared with its knitting width20第20页，共51页。Properties of 11 ribLies flat without curlCan be unroved from the end knitted last Cannot be unrove

10、d from the end knitted first21第21页，共51页。Suitable for the extremities of articles:Tops of socks 袜口Cuffs of sleeves 袖口Borders of garments 下摆Stolling and strapping for cardigans/开衫毛衫22第22页，共51页。4.3.1 Rib set-outs 罗纹配置Single or simple ribs 窄罗纹Broad ribs 宽罗纹21, 31, etc63, 32, etc23第23页，共51页。Swiss rib 瑞士罗

11、纹Skeleton 11 rib 2隔1抽针罗纹24第24页，共51页。English rib 英式罗纹25第25页，共51页。4.3.2 The knitting action of the circular rib machine/罗纹圆机成圈过程Yarn feeding 垫纱Knocking-over 脱圈Clearing 退圈26第26页，共51页。4.3.3 Needle timing 针的对位It is the relationship between the loop-forming positions/成圈位置 of the dial and cylinder needles.

12、27第27页，共51页。Synchronized timing 同步成圈Also know as point, jacquard and 22 timingHigh tension during loop formation28第28页，共51页。Delayed timing 滞后成圈Also called rib or interlock timingFabric is tighter and has better rigidityRib jacquard or broad ribs cannot be produced in this way29第29页，共51页。Advanced tim

13、ing 超前成圈Be sometimes used in the production of figured ripple double-jersey fabrics/花式波纹罗纹组织.30第30页，共51页。4.4 Interlock structure 双罗纹(棉毛)组织 It has the technical face of plain fabric on both sides. The wales on each side are exactly opposite to each other and are locked together.31第31页，共51页。characteri

14、sticsIt lies flat without curlRelaxes by about 30-40 per cent or more, compared with its knitted widthNot unrove from the end knitted firstThicker, heavier and narrower than rib of equivalent gaugeRequires a finer, better, more expensive yarn32第32页，共51页。4.4.1 Production of interlock fabric 双罗纹组织的编织A

15、n interlock machine must have the following:Interlock gating 双罗纹配置Two separate cam systems in each bedNeedles set out alternately33第33页，共51页。Needles of interlock machine :Long needles 长针（低踵针）Short needles 短针（高踵针）34第34页，共51页。4.4.2 Example of an interlock cam system 双罗纹三角系统举例The cylinder cam system :A

16、 clearing cam 退圈三角B stitch cam 成圈三角C guard cam 护针三角D upthrow cam 回针三角E,F guard cam 护针三角G,H guide cam 导针三角35第35页，共51页。The dial cam system :1 raising cam 起针三角2,3 dial knock-over cam 针盘脱圈三角4 guard cam 护针三角5 auxiliary knock-over cam 辅助脱圈三角6,7 guide cam 导针三角8 swing type clearing cam 摆动退圈三角4.4.2 Example o

17、f an interlock cam system 双罗纹三角系统举例36第36页，共51页。4.5 Purl structure 双反面组织Purl structures can be achieved with double-ended latch needles/双头舌针 or by rib loop transfer/罗纹移圈 from one bed to the other, combined with needle bed racking/针床横移.37第37页，共51页。 The tricks/针槽 are opposite to each other and in the s

18、ame plane. So the single set of purl needles/双头舌针 can be transferred across to knit outwards from either bed.38第38页，共51页。Characteristics of 11 purlLateral stretch/横向拉伸 is equal to plainLength-wise elasticity/纵向弹性 is almost doubleCan be unroved from both endsWhen relaxed, it is twice as thick as plai

19、n39第39页，共51页。Another simple purlMoss stitch 桂花针Basket purls 席纹组织40第40页，共51页。Machines for purl structureFlat bed purls 双反面横机 -no longer builtCircular purls (double cylinder machines) 双针筒圆机Electronically-controlled V-bed rib machines 电脑横机41第41页，共51页。Engagement/啮合 of the head of the receiving slider/接针

20、导针片 with the needle hook/针钩4 Necessary conditions:4.5.1 Purl needle transfer action 双头舌针的转移运动42第42页，共51页。Cam action causing the head of the delivering slider/送针导针片 to pivot outwards from the trick/针槽 4 Necessary conditions:4.5.1 Purl needle transfer action 双头舌针的转移运动43第43页，共51页。Sufficient free space

21、to allow the heads of the sliders to pivot outwards from their tricks 44第44页，共51页。A positive action which maintains the engagement of the head of a slider with a needle hook throughout its knitting cycle45第45页，共51页。4.5.2 The use of dividing cams 分针三角的应用The principle of the dividing cam operation is

22、that it forms a wedge shape/楔形 of increasing thickness between the upper surface of the needle hook and the under surface of the extended nose of the delivering slider/送针导针片.46第46页，共51页。The principle of the dividing cam operation is that it forms a wedge shape/楔形 of increasing thickness between the upper surface of the needle hook and the under surface of the extended nose of the delivering slider/送针导针片.47第47页，共51页。The delivering slider (D) advances wit