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爱荷华的圣诞节保罗-恩waysdid.Buttheyweresleighbells,notchurchbells,forwelivedinapartofCedarrsesashedroveuptoourhorse-headedhitchingpostwiththebobsledthatwould3takwouldbringtheteamdownFifthAvenueatasmarttrot,flickinghiswhipoverthehhoseradiancethrewbackabrilliancelikethesoundofbells.(Myfatherdrovethehorsestomovequicklydowntheroads,hittingtheirhindpartwithalight,quickblowwithhiswhip.Thebellsrangevenmorelightlyandquicklyoverthesnow,whichinturnthrewbackagreatbrightnessthatwaslikethesoundofbells.)家有一个马头形的拴马桩,父亲会把马儿们赶到拴马桩那儿把大雪橇套在马身上,带着我们到0英里以外的乡下农场去庆祝圣诞节。当父亲驾着马车轻快地Therearenosuchdeparturesanymore:thewholefamilypilingintothebobsledwithmpingthesoftsnow,andateverymotionoftheirhoofsthebellsjingling,jingling.Myfathersattherewiththereinsfirmlyheld,wearingalongcoatmadefromthehideofntaviewoftheirlatefriendappearingasawarmovercoatonthebackofthemanwhoputtheironbitintheirmouths(.Iwaspuzzledasan8-year-oldboyoverthehorses’indifferencetowardstheirdeadfriend,whosehidehadnowturnedintomyfather’sovercoatwhichcamefromtheirrecentlydiedfriendandthemanwhoputa8见着它们刚刚故去的朋友变成了把衔铁塞在它们嘴里的人身上温暖的大衣而熟视无睹,毫无反应。Therearenostreetslikethoseanymore:thesnowsensiblyleftontheroadfortheeofsleighsandeasytravel.Wecouldhopoilandridetheheavyrunnersastheymadetheirhissing,tearing soundoverthepackedsnow.Andalongthestreetswemetotherhorses,sothatwemovedfrom onesetofbellstoanother,fromthetinytinkleoftheindividualbellsontheshaftstothesilvery,leapingsoundofthelongstrandshungTherewouldbeanoccasionalbrass-mountedautomobilelaboringonitsnarrowtiresandasoftenasnotpulleduptheslipperyhillsbyahorse,andwewouldpassitwithatriumphantshoutforanawkwardnuisancewhichwasobviouslynotheretostay.(Occasionallyonourway,wewouldmeetacarmovingslowlyandcarefullyoverthepackedsnow.Ithaddifficultyclimbinguphills,whichwewsliiperywithsnow,soitwasoftenpulledupbyahorse.Whenwepassedbyquicklyonoursleigh,wewouldshoutloudlywithasenseofuhtowardsthem,whichwereobviousclumsyoutofplace,makingtroubleontheroad.Thecountryroadranthroughalandscapeoflittlehillsandshallowvalleysandheavygrovesoftimber,includingoneofgreattoweringblackwalnuttreeswhichwereallcutdownayearlatertobemadeintogunstocksfortheFirstWorldWar.Thegreatmomentwaswhenwelefttheroadanddpegene.tnhswewswewsdnerefeey,dIdotdkenoesssfnndd.yrdnneftmsydresannel.4Nearthelowhouseonthehill,withoaksononesideandappletreesontheother,myfatherwouldstandup,flourishhiswhip,andbringthebobsledrightuptothedoorofthehousewithaburstofspeed.风驰电掣般的速度把雪橇驶到房门口停下。Therearenosucharrivalsanymore:theharnessbellsringingandclashinglikefarawaysteeples,thehorseswhinnyingatthehorsesinthebarnandreceivingagreat,trumpetingwhinnyinreply,thedogsleapingintothebobsledandburrowingunderthebufhorses,boyandgirlcousinshowlingaroundthebobsled,andthedescentintothesnowwiththeChristmasbasketcarriedbymy如今再也没有那样的到达时的热闹景象了:车辕上的铃铛清脆响亮,就像远处马厩里的马儿们也以热烈响eyrdswtoe,emwsddntoe,oedwhsdnae.twrrfabnsawyx,hdwmdyeelfeaenn:eytfyswgadsd;snergr,wg; filledwithanimals,itwasalsowarm.Pigswereutteringdeep,gloomy,andsonoroussounds...)milkcattlestillnuzzlingthemangerforwispsofhay;horseseyeingthenewcomersandrollingtheirdeep,ovaleyeswhite;oats,hay,andstrawtangystillwiththeliveAugustsunlight;themanuresteaming;thesharpodorofleatherharnessrubbedwithneat’s-footoiltokeepitsupple;themolasses-sweetodorofensilageinthesilowherethefodderwasalmostfermenting.Itisasmellfromstrongandlivingthings,anddhewouldstandthere,breathingdeeply,onehandonahorse’srump,watchingthesteamcomeoutfromundertheblanketsastheteamcooleddownfromtheirrapidtrotupthelane.Itgavehimabetterappetite,heargued,thanplainfreshair,whichwasthinandhadnobodytoit.(Withsomuchcontentandlifeinit,therichodorofthehim,wasweakandlackofsubstance.)的动物粪便的气味以及为了使皮革马具柔软而用牛脚油摩擦皮革散发出的浓烈eoriginaleventhappened,andthatsamesmellwasthefirstairthattheChristChildb第一口空气就是这种味道。Bythetimewereachedthehouse,mymotherandsisterswerewearingapronsandbusyinginthekitchen,asred-facedasthewomenwhohadbeenthereallmorning.Thekitchenwasthebiggestroominthehouseandallfamilylifesavesleepingwentonthere.Myuncleevenhadacouchalongonewallwherehenappedandwherethechildrenlaywhentheywereill.ThekitchenrangewasatremendousblackandgleamingonecalledaSmokeEater,withpansbubblingovertheholesabovethefireboxandareservoirofhotwaterattheside,linedwithdullcopper,fromwhichmyunclewoulddipabasinofwaterandshaveabovethesink,turninghislatheredfacenowandthentodroparemarkintothewomen’stalk,wavinghisstraightedgedrazorasifitwereathreattomakethembelievehim.Myjobwastogotothewoodpileoutbackandkeepthefireburning,splittingthechunksofoakandhickory,watchinghowcleanlytheaxwentthroughthetoughwood.。灶台上大大小小的锅在火箱上的灶眼里燃烧,柴火不够时还要挥舞利刃把坚硬的橡木和山胡桃木劈成可以烧火的木块儿。ItwasahandmadeChristmas.Thetreecamefromdowninthegrove,andonitmanypaperornamentsmadebymycousins,aswellasbeautifulonesbroughtfromthcornplantedonthesunnyslopebythewatermelons,paperhornswithhomemadecanorfancycrocheted“yokes”fornightgowns,tattedcollarsforblouses,doilieswithfancyflowerpatternsfortables,tidiesforchairs,andonceIreceivedabrilliantlypolishedcowhornwithacavalrymancrudelybutbravelycarvedonit.Andtherewouldusuallybeacornhuskdoll,perhapswithapruneorwalnutforaface,andagaydressofanoldcorset-coverscrapwithitsribbonsstillbright.Andtherewererealcandlesburningwithrealflames,everyguestsniffingtheairforthesmellofscorchingpineneedles.Noelectricallylittreehasthewarmandprimitivepresenceofatreewithacrownoflivingfiresoverit,suggestingwhatevertrueflameJosephmayhavekindledonthatoriginalcoldnight.那真是自给自足的圣诞节:圣诞树是从小山下的丛林里看来的,挂在上面的有一Therearenodinnerslikethatanymore:everyitemfromthefarmitself,withnofreezer,nocarfordrivingintotownforpackagedfood.Thepieshadbeenbakedthedaybefore,pumpkin, apple,andmince;asweatethem,wecouldlookoutthewindowandseethecornfieldwherethe pumpkinsgrew,thetreesfromwhichtheappleswerepicked.Therewascottagecheese,withthedrippingbagsofcurdsstillhangingfromthecoldcellarceiling.Thebreadhadbeenbakedthatmorning,heatinguptheovenforthemeat,andasmyaunthurriedIcouldsmellinherapronthatfreshestofallodorswithwhichhumannoseishonored--breadstraightfromtheoven.(Asshepassedby,Icouldsmellthemostdelightfulsmellofallsmells--thatofthefreshlybakedbreadjustoutoftheoven.)TherewouldbeahugebrowncrockofbeanswithsmokedporkfromthehogbutcheredeveryNovember.Wecouldsee,beyondthecrock,thebroadblackironkettleinacornerofthebarnyard,turnedupsidedown,theinnocenthogsstoppingtoscatchonit.1如今再也没有那样的圣诞晚餐了:没有冷冻冰箱,没有汽车开进城里去购买烟熏猪肉1月屠宰的猪。越过大瓦罐儿,我们能看到场院角落里倒扣着的一口大黑铁锅,无辜的猪儿们停在那里蹭痒儿。cellarceiling.Thebreadhadbeenbakedthatmorning,heatinguptheovenforthemeat,andasmyaunthurriedbyIcouldsmellinherapronthatfreshestofallodorswithwhichthehumannoseishonored—breadstraightfromtheoven.TherewouldbeahugebrowncrockofbeanswithsmokedporkfromthehogbutcheredeveryNovember.Wecouldsee,beyondthecrock,thebroadblackironkettleinacornerofthebarnyard,turnedupsidedown,theinnocenthogsstoppingtoscratchon总会有各种各样的蜜饯水果和泡菜:有采自小树丛中葡萄树上的野葡萄,有炎热的9月下午吃的西瓜皮腌制的泡菜。Cutintotheslopeofthehillbehindthehouse,withalittledoorofitsown,wasthevegetablecellar,fromwhichcamecarrots,turnips,cabbages,potatoes,squash,Sometimesmyscaredcousinsweresentthereforpunishment,tositindarknessandmeditateonntheirsins;butneveronChristmasDay.Fordaysaftersuchanordealtheycouldnotendurebitingintoacarrot.(Whilebeingkeptinsidethevegetablecellar,sittingindarknessandthinkingabttheirwrongdoings,theywouldhelpthemselvestothecarrotsstoredthere.Theyhadeatensomanythatevenseveraldaysafterthat,they3当然还有撒着一粒粒葛缕子粒的传统泡菜。我记得有一个圣诞节,当地下室里用一块儿石头压着盖着盖子的装有0得石头砸到客厅下面的地板时,叔叔大声叫道:我的天,钢琴从地板上掉下去”Allthemeatwasfromthehomeplacetoo.Mostusefulofall,thegoos—theveryoneofcoughingchildren.Weate,slepton,andworethatgoose.所有的肉类也是家产的。其中最有用的莫过于鹅肉了,那只鹅正是那年夏天穿鹅毛。ovenjust,forhim,alwaysreferredtobythehurryingladieshehadjerkedhishead.Itwasnotmanyyearsbefore usknivesandgunsbecausehehadnochildrenofhisown.作为一个小孩子,有一位来自离家最近的有铁路的镇子的远房叔叔是一件令本叔叔一个文雅而生性腼腆的矮个子男人,经常送给我们玩具刀和手枪,因为他自己没有孩子。当然配菜也同样来自于农场:山胡桃仁蛋糕用的是第一场霜降后从小树林里仁。wereasuspiciouscharacteroutoftheCivilWar.18厨房的窗外便是果园,果园里长着各种苹果树:“富裕果”、“赤褐果”、“狼果”snac9荷兰面包,用介于做面包和蛋糕之间的面团做成的面食,里面塞满了香橼和各式各样”,我们把同样的黄油(含有最高的乳脂含量Toeatinthesameroomwherefoodiscooked—thatisthewaytothanktheLordHisabundance.Thelongtable,withitsdifferentlevelswhereadditionshadbeen madeforthesmallfry,ranthelengthofthekitchen.Theairwasheavywithodorsnotonlyoffoodonplatesbutoftheactofcookingitself,alongwiththemetallicsmellofheatedironfromthehard-workingSmokeEater,andthewholestoveofferedusitsyetsofmoregooseanduntouched Toseethegibletmadeandpouredintoagravyboat,whichhadpaintedonitssideswinterscenesboysslidinganddeerboundingoversnow,isthesurestwaytoovereatitsswimming0在食物烹调出来的同一个房间里品尝它们,这正是感谢主如此丰盛的恩赐的最好方式。厨房里的那张长桌子由于为小孩子们不断增加一些高低不等的桌面,空气中浓香四溢灶台上一直不停烧烤着的金属发出的味道。整个炉子给我们提供着更多的上桌的烤鹅和馅ThewarningforChristmasdinnerwasalwaysanordertogotothemilkhouseforcream,whereweskimmedfromthecoolingpansoffreshmilkthecreamwhichhadthesamegoldencolorastheflanksoftheJerseycowswhichhadgivenit.Thelastdeedbeforeeatingwasgrindingthecoffeebeansinthelittlemill,addingthatexoticodortothemorenativeonesofgooseandspicedpumpkinpie.Thenallwouldsitatthetableandmyunclewouldaskthegrace,sometimesinGerman,butlater,forthebenefitofusignorantchildren,inEnglish:Come,LordJesus,beourguest,Sharethisfoodthatyouhaveblessed.当孩子们被派往牛奶房去取奶油时,就知道晚餐要开始了。我们把出自泽西Therearenoblessingslikethatanymore:everyscrapoffoodforwhichmyunclehadHimtomakeholywastheplainsubstancethatanIowafarmcouldproduceinan averageyearwithdecentrainfallandproperplowingandmanure.22如今再也没有那样的祈福了:叔叔敬献给上帝、请他赐福的所有食物都出自ThefirstactofdedicationonsuchaChristmaswastotheoccasionwhichhadbegunit,thankstotheChildofapastoralcouplewhonodoubtknewagooddealaboutrainfallandgrassandthefatteningofanimals.Thesecondactofdedicationwastotheceremonyofeating.Myauntkeptaturmoiloffoodcirculating,andtorefuseanyofitbecausevariousfoodswerekeptgoingbymyaunt.ItwouldbeinappropriatetotheWeweretherenotonlytocelebrateafortunateeventformankind,butalsotorecognizethatsufferingisthe naturallotofmen—andtoconsumethelengthandbreadthletouthisbelt—afancyWesternbeltwithsteerheadsandsilverbuckle-withasnapandasigh.Thewomenmanagedbetterbyalwaysgettingupfromthetableandtrottingcold.mensattheregrimlyenduringthegloryoftheirappetites.(Withasternandseriousexpressionontheirfaces,themensattheresufferingfromeatingtothrfullcapacityof3在这样的圣诞节第一个要感谢的是使这个节日产生的那个圣诞之夜,感谢那

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