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ChineseTraditionalCostume2021/6/271ChineseTraditionalCostumeHanDynastySuiandTangdynastiesSongandYuandynastiesMingandQingDynastiestheRepublicofChinaModernsociety2021/6/272HanfuHanfuisknownasHanzhuang,isthetraditionaldressoftheHanChinesepeople.ThetermHanfuderivesfromtheBookofHan,whichsays,''thenmanycametothecourttopayhomageandweredelightedattheclothingstyleoftheHan.''(后数来朝贺,乐汉衣服制度)2021/6/273Yi(衣):Anyopencross-collargarment,andwornbybothsexes.Pao(袍):Anyclosedfull-bodygarment,wornonlybymen.Ru(襦):Opencross-collarshirt.Shan(衫):Opencross-collarshirtorjacketthatiswornovertheyi.Qun(裙)orchang(裳):Skirtforwomenandmen.Ku(裤):Trousersorpants.Thestructure2021/6/274InformaldressTypesincludetops(yi)andbottoms(dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders),andone-piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes)2021/6/275Semi-formaldresschang(裳):apleatedskirtbixi(蔽膝):longfrontclothpanelattachedfromthewaistbelt.zhaoshan(罩衫):longopenfrontedcoat2021/6/276FormaldressXuanduan(玄端):averyformaldarkrobe,equivalenttotheWesternwhitetieShenyi(深衣):alongfull-bodygarmentCurving-frontrobe(曲裾):diagonalbodywrappingPanlingpao(盤领袍):closed,round-collaredrobe;mostlyusedforofficialdress2021/6/277CostumeinTangDynasty

2021/6/278ThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangDynastyThefeaturesofcostumeinTangDynastyHowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?

Contents

2021/6/279TangDynastyFromtheSuitotheTang,theancientChineseclothingdevelopedtoitspeak.Thepoliticalstability,economicdevelopment,manufacturingandtextiletechnology,andthefrequentforeignrelationscontributedtothedevelopmentofclothing.Theclothinginthisperiodhadformedthemostfantasticchapterintheclothinghistory.2021/6/2710

Features

Thegeneralfeaturesofwomen'scostumeinTangdynasty:topless(上空装,袒胸装)exposedarmobliquecollarlargesleeveslongskirtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle.Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite,thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.2021/6/2711

Features

Thisisthepicture《BeautiesWearingFlowers》showingaladystrollinginthecourt.Theladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirtandwithoutunderdress.Thisiscalled“topless”2021/6/2712TheTangwomendressedinsetsofgarments,andeachsetauniqueinitself.

Features

2021/6/2713Ingeneral,theTangwomen'sdressescanbeclassifiedintothreecategories:Thetraditionalruqun(襦裙)ordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChina.

Features

2021/6/2714Thehufu,oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoadCross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys),thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalities

Features

2021/6/2715

HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?

Frist,inChinesehistory,theTangDynastywasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydeveloped.MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally,reachingitsheightinpoetry,painting,musicanddance.2021/6/2716Second,basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques,thevarietyqualityandquantityoftexitlematerialsreachedanunprecedentedheight.

HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?

2021/6/2717

HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?

Third,theTanggovementwastolerant,andoftenappreciativeofreligions,artandculturefromtheoutsideworld.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynastyandSuiDynasty,theyhavedistinctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.2021/6/2718Thankyouforyourlistening!2021/6/2719SongDynastyCostumeofSongDynasty(960-1279)wassimpleandnatural,reflectingthedevelopmenttendencyoftheera.ThestyleofcostumeinSongDynastytendedtobeconservative,impressingpeoplewithsimple,pureandelegantfeelings.Themaincharacteristicsofwomen’sclothingarenarrow,long,thin.唐代文化是一种开放的类型,但宋代文化则是一种相对收敛的类型,两者有很大的差异,宋代在政治上虽然开放民主,但由于“程朱理学”的思想禁锢,和对外政策的妥协退让,服饰文化不再艳丽奢华,而是简洁质朴。宋代强调“存天理,灭人欲”的观念,使人的个体对立性全部仰制了,对妇女的约束也推到了极点,所以宋代女装拘谨、保守,色彩淡雅恬静,宋代不论权贵的皇亲国戚,还是一般的百姓,都爱穿着直领,对襟的褙子,因为既舒适得体,又显得典雅大方。2021/6/2720SongDynastyTheclothingstyleofSongDynastyischaracterizedbyitselegance.Menusuallyworegownswithroundcollars,whilewomenworeshortjacketsorcoatswithmatchingshortrobesorChinese-stylejacketswithbuttonsdownthefront.Thiselegantstylewasinfluencedbythedressofthenorthernminoritypeoples.

Gauzepants.SouthernSongdynasty.Chayuanshan,Fuzhou,Fujianprovince.

Thispairofpantsismadefromextremelythingauzedecoratedwithpreciousobjects(goldingots,swastikas,coral,rhinocerotichorns,dharmawheels),lozengesandflowers,allarrangedinanelegantandorderlymanner.PantsinthisstylewerepopularintheSongdynastyandusuallywornunderalongskirt.2021/6/2721SongDynasty

It

has

already

began

foot-binding

in

the

Song

dynasty

when

"sancunjinlian"

has

came

into

being.

三寸金莲2021/6/2722YuanDynastyTheYuanDynasty(1279-1368)wastheamalgamationageof

ethnicgroups

inChina’shistory,andthedressesandpersonaladornmentsofthistimealsofullyrepresentedthisfeature.

ThecostumesofYuanDynastyhasnofixedstyle,themainstyleisrobe.Thereislittledifferenceinrobebetweenmenandwomen.However,duetotheCharacteristicofnation,thegarmentsinYuanDynastyaredividedintoMongolianstyleandHanstyle.2021/6/2723YuanDynasty蒙古族女子,时兴戴一种很有特色的“罟罟冠”,高约70-100厘米,其顶端扩大成平顶帽形;外面以红绢、金锦或毛毡包裱。2021/6/2724YuanDynastyZhisunfu:质孙服上衣下裳,上紧下短,并在腰间加襞(bì)积,肩背挂大珠Zhisunfu

wasjustformulatedin1321duringthereignofYuanEmperorYingzongbyreferringtoancientsystems:upperandlowershortgarmentswerepiecedtogether;foldswereaddedtothewaistline,andbigbeadswerehungonshouldersandtheback.Emperorsandofficialsinallranksworesuchgarments,andtheHanpeoplecalledthemastheYiseyi.(一色衣).2021/6/2725YuanDynasty2021/6/2726YuanDynasty元代蒙古族男子,戴一种用藤篾做的“瓦楞帽”,有方圆两种样式,顶中装饰有珠宝。2021/6/2727QingDynasty2021/6/2728QingDynasty

DuringtheQingDynasty,clotheswereelegantandpoised(雍容华贵的).Peopleatthattimeworeclothesbefittingtheirsocialstatus,officialranks(社会地位)andlifestyleaccordingtotheregulationsoftheQinggovernment.2021/6/2729

Theornamentationofformal(chaofu)andsemi-formal(jifu)courtrobesincludedthedragonmotiftogetherwithadecorativerepresentationoftheChineseconceptionofthecosmos.Thedragonsymbolisedtheemperor,knownastheSonofHeaven,andpermissiontoweartherobewasgivenbyhim.2021/6/2730

2021/6/2731Thosewhopassedthecivilserviceexaminationsandattainedthestatusofagovernmentofficialwerealsograntedtheprivilegeofwearingcourtrobes.Rankwasfurtherdistinguishedbyahierarchyofcolourandornamentation.2021/6/2732ThecheongsamisaneminentlyfeatureofQizhuangcostume,whichstillhascertainimpactsonmoderncostume.Especially,alongwiththedevelopmentofChina,acheongsamthatdemonstrateswomen’scurvaceousbeautyhasbecometherepresentativegarmentoftheHanpeople,asitcanshowthefemininityandtemperamentoforientalladies.2021/6/2733

MainCharacteristics●shirtisnotexposed(衫不露外)●theright-sidelapelofjunctiondecoratedwithbuttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰)●clothingplusclothing(衣外加衣)●increasewaistcoatorjacket(增加坎肩或马褂)2021/6/2734MainCharacteristics●clothesdonotgetthewaistdown(衣服上下不取腰身)●Rectangularoutline(外轮廓呈长方形)●Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand(马蹄袖盖手)●setrollingcraftdecoration(镶滚工艺装饰)●flowerpotshoes(花盆鞋)2021/6/27352021/6/27362021/6/2737TheChinesetraditionalcostumeCheongsam2021/6/2738ContentsThedefinitionofcheongsamTheevolutionofcheongsamThestructureofcheongsamRepresentativefigures2021/6/2739DefinitionQipao(Chipao)isoneofthemosttypical,traditionalcostumesforChinesewomen.Alsoknownascheongsam

,itislikeawonderfulflowerintheChinesecolorfulfashionscenebecauseofitsparticularcharm.2021/6/2740TheevolutionThelateQingDynasty.In1919,theOrdinance(法令)aboutgarments(服装)wasannouncedbytheNationalGovernmentandcheongsamwasestablishedtobethenationalgarments.In1920sIntheearlyRepublicofChina,thecheongsambegantobepopularagain.2021/6/2741Fromthe1950sto1960sIn1950sand1960s,cheongsamsbegantoshowupagaininthepeople'slives.Fromthe1930sto1940s

1930sand1940ssawthecheongsaminitspeakfashion.

GoldenEraTheevolution2021/6/2742Inmoderntimes.Popularagainnow.From1966to1976CulturalRevolution,disasterTheevolution2021/6/2743Frog盘扣Thestructure立领襟衩Mandarincollar立领Lapel襟Openings衩embroidery刺绣2021/6/2744ThestyleSleeves:widesleeves,narrowandlongsleeves,middlesleeves,shortsleevesorsleeveless.Jin(襟):roundJin,straightJin,slantingJin(斜襟),doubleJin(双襟),PipaJin(琵琶襟),andsoon.Collar(领):highcollar,lowcollar,orcollarless.Openings(开衩):highopenings,lowopenings,noopening2021/6/2745longsleevesshortsleevessleeveless2021/6/2746HighcollarCollarlessLowcollar2021/6/2747Representativefigures张爱玲EileenChang(1920-1995)Awell-knownwriter,beaddictedtocheongsam.Lifeisacolorfulgown,coveredwithlice.

2021/6/2748宋美龄SoongMay-ling(1897-2003)FirstladyinRepublicofChina.旗袍第一夫人Sheownsthemostnumberofqipaoallovertheworld.2021/6/2749邓丽君WherethereareChinesethereishervoice,shereallymadethebeautyofthecheongsam,cheongsamaccomplishedherlegend.2021/6/2750Inthefilm《IntheMoodforLove》(似水年华)

,MaggieCheung(张曼玉)changemorethan23setsofqipao,afterthemovierelease.Itsetoffarushof“cheongsamhot."

Cheongsamreflectstheelegantcharmoforientalwomen2021/6/27512021/6/2752玉脂白Expo(展览会)2010ShanghaiChina

2021/6/2753CheongsamforMissManners青花瓷宝蓝2021/6/2754Thankyou!!!2021/6/2755现代民族服饰现在,民族服饰是指各民族本身文化中独有特色的服饰,也可以称为地方服饰或民俗服饰。由于我国民族众多,我今天重点介绍一下苗族服饰和白族服饰。苗族服饰是我国所有民族服饰中最为华丽的服饰,既是中华文化中的一朵奇葩,也是历史文化的瑰宝。2021/6/2756ModernEthnicClothingNationaldressistheuniquecultureofthenation'sownuniquecostumes,canalsobecalledlocaldressorfolkcostumes.Becauseofthemanyethnicgroupsinourcountry,IwillfocusontheMiaocostumeandBaic

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