Unit3Fifty-years-of-fashion-译文与翻译练习答案

Unit3Fiftyyearsoffashion1

Nohistoryoffashionintheyears1960to2010canoverlookorunderestimatetwoconstantfactors:theubiquitousjeansandtheriseandfallofhemlinesforwomen'sskirtsanddresses.2

Denim,thematerialwhichjeansaremadeof,wasknowninFranceinthelate16thcentury,butitwasLeviStrausswhosawthatminersintheCaliforniangoldrushinthemid-19thcenturyneededstrongtrousers,whichhereinforcedwithmetalrivets.BluedenimjeansremainedpopularintheUSasworkclothesuntilthe1950s,butthenbecameassociatedwithyouth,newideas,rebellionandindividuality.WhenLeviStrauss&CobegantoexportbluejeanstoEuropeandAsiainthelate1950s,theywereboughtandwornwithhugeenthusiasmbyyoungpeopleandrecognizedasasymboloftheyoung,informalAmericanwayoflife.3

Hemlineshaveamorepeculiarsignificanceduringthisperiod.Ithasoftenbeennotedthatthereisaprecisecorrelation,withonlyafewexceptions,betweenthelengthofwomen'sskirtsandtheeconomy.Asthestockmarketrises,sodohemlines,andwhenitfalls,sodothey.Exactlywhywomenshouldwanttoexposemoreorlessoftheirlegsduringperiodsofeconomicboomandbustremainsamystery.Butthegeneraltrendisinescapable.Whenevertheeconomicoutlookisunsettled,bothmenandwomentendtowearmoreconservativeclothes.4

Perhapsthemostimportantdevelopmentinfashioninthe1960swastheminiskirt,inventedbytheBritishdesignerMaryQuant.BecauseQuantworkedintheheartofSwingingLondon,theminiskirtdevelopedintoamajorinternationalfashion.ItwasgivengreaterrespectabilitywhenthegreatFrenchdesigner,Courrèges,developeditintoanitemofhighfashion.Butitwouldnothaveachievedsuchinternationalcurrencywithoutthedevelopmentoftights,insteadofstockings,becausetheriseinhemlinesmeantthestockingtopswouldbevisible.5

Thehippiemovementofthemid-1960sandearly1970sinfluencedthedesignofjeans,withthetrouserlegdevelopingaflared"bell-bottom"style.Bythemid-1970s,astheeconomydeteriorated,hemlinesdroppedtomidi(mid-calflength)andmaxi(anklelength),whilejeanswerenolongerexclusivelyblue.6

Jeansremainedfashionableduringtheperiodofpunk,usuallywornripped,oftenwithchainsandstuddedbelts.Thelooklastedforseveralyears,althoughbecamemoreandmorerestrictedtosmallgroupsofinner-cityyoungpeople,andhadlittleinfluenceonotheragegroups.7

Asabacklashtotheanarchyofpunk,theNewRomanticswasafashionmovementwhichoccurredmainlyinBritishnightclubs.Itwasglamorousandcourageous,andfeaturedlavishfrilledshirts.Jeansweredefinitelynotacceptable.8

Themid-1980ssawtheriseofanumberofdifferentstyles.Powerdressingwascharacterizedbysmartsuitsand,forthenewly-empoweredwomen,shoulderpadsandknee-lengthskirts.Notsurprisingly,theeconomywasunstable,andpeopletooklessrisksinwhattheywore.Formen,theMiamiVicestyle,namedafterthetelevisionseries,madeuseofsmartT-shirtsunderdesignerjackets,anddesignerstubble—threeorfourdaysofbeardgrowth.Butasalways,denimremainedpopularwiththeyoung.Inparticular,heavymetalmusicfansworebleachedandrippedjeansanddenimjackets.9

Graduallyhemlinesstartedtoriseagain...untiltheworldstockmarketcrashin1987.Sothelate1980sintheUSsawtheriseofthemoreconservativestylecalledPreppystyle,withclassicclothesbyRalphLaurenandBrooksBrothersformen,button-downshirts,chinosandloafers,withasweatertiedlooselyaroundtheneck.Theyalsoworejeans,buteitherbrand-neworcleanandsmartlypressed—notatallwhatLeviStraussoriginallyintended.10

Astheworldeconomiesimprovedagaininthe1990s,fashionforyoungpeoplebecamemoredaring.BootsandConverseorNiketrainersremainedpopular,butthepredominantcoloursbecameolivegreenandoatmeal.Hairwaswornlong,orcutspikyshortanddyedblue,greenorred.Hoodies,baseballcapsandbaggyjeans,whichwereoftenwornlowbelowthebuttocks,werecommononthestreets.11

TheninJanuary2000theNewYorktechnologystockmarketcollapsed.Asusual,sodidhemlines,whichweredescribedbyonecommentatoras"theprimandproperlookisin.Skirtsshouldbebelowtheknee."Butmerelyoneyearlater,thestockmarketbegantorecover,andthemicrominiskirtreturned.Hemlineswerehigherthantheyhadbeenformanyyears.12

Duringthisperiod,itwasunusualtowearformalclothesunlessyouwereatwork.Designerjeansgainedhugepopularity.Theseweremadeofthetraditionaldenim,perhapswithsomelycraadded,butcutandmarketedunderwell-knownbrandssuchasArmani,HugoBossandMoschino,whountilrecentlyhadonlyconcernedthemselveswiththesmartestfashionlines.SkinnyjeansalsobecamepopularinBritainandmostofEurope.Skirtlengthisuncertain,rangingfrommicroto"sensible"—knee-lengthorjustbelow.13

Sometimesthehemlineindicator,asit'scalled,canevenprecedeandpredictachangeinthemoodofthestockmarketlongbeforeitactuallyhappens.InSeptember2007,attheNewYorkfashionshows,whichweredisplayingtheirstylesforspring2008,thetrendwasformuchlongerdressesandskirts,manytomid-calforevendowntotheankles.Somepeoplefeltthisshowedthatthehemlineindicatorwasnolongerreliable,andthatdesignersnolongerdictatedwhatpeoplewouldwear.DuringtheLondonandNewYorkfashionshowsinSeptember2008,hemlinescontinuedtodrop.Butsureenough,inthefallof2008,thestockmarketindexesfelldramaticallywhenthebankingcrisishittheUS,Europeandthentherestoftheworld.Hemlineswerenolongerfollowingthestockmarket—theywereshowingthewayandindicatingfutureeconomictrends.14

Duringthewholeperiod,fashionstyleshaverangedwidely,andhaveusuallybeensparkedoffbyadesiretoidentifypeopleasbelongingtoaparticularsub-culture.Buttheconstantfactorsoverthisperiodaredenimandhemlinesandthegreatestinfluenceshavebeena19th-centuryCalifornianclothesmanufacturerandayoungdesignerintheSwingingLondonofthe1960s.

2000年1月，纽约的科技股市崩盘。和往常一样，裙摆也相应地降低了，正如一位评论家所说的，“循规蹈矩、一本正经的式样开始流行了。裙摆应该长及过膝。”但仅仅过了一年，股市开始复苏，超短迷你裙又回来了，裙摆比多年以来的高度都要高一些。

这段时期，除非在工作时，人们通常不穿正式的服装。名牌牛仔裤享有很高的知名度，用传统的粗斜纹布制作，可能还加了点莱卡，但是由著名服装品牌，如阿玛尼、胡戈

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伯斯及莫斯奇诺设计、销售。这些品牌公司以前都只做最优雅的时装。紧身牛仔裤在英国及欧洲大部分地区很流行。裙子的长短不一，既有超短裙，也有长度比较“理性”的裙子——即及膝或刚刚过膝的裙子。

有时候，所谓的裙摆标志甚至能够预示股市的行情。2007年9月的纽约时装展展示了2008年春季流行式样，潮流转向了长衣、长裙，裙摆长及小腿中部，甚至到了脚踝。有人觉得这表明裙摆标志靠不住了，服装设计师已经丧失了对时装的主宰权。2008年9月，在伦敦和纽约时装展中，裙摆的高度继续降低。果然，2008年秋天金融危机袭击欧美，并波及全球，股指急剧下跌。这时，裙摆不再被动地追随股市的变化，而是预示股市行情及未来的经济趋势。

在整个这段时期内，时装的风格多种多样，而且往往源于人们希望归属于某种亚文化的愿望。但是，这个时期的不变因素是粗斜纹布和裙摆。影响力最大的当属19世纪加利福尼亚州的一个服装制造商以及20世纪60年代工作在“摇摆伦敦”的一位年轻的时装设计师。Languagepoints1.Nohistoryoffashionintheyears1960to2010canoverlookorunderestimatetwoconstantfactors:theubiquitousjeansand...(Para1)Thewordubiquitousmeanspresenteverywhere.Thustheubiquitousjeansmeansthatjeanscanbefoundeverywhere.2.Exactlywhywomenshouldwanttoexposemoreorlessoftheirlegsduringperiodsofeconomicboomandbustremainsamystery.(Para3)Aneconomicboomisasuddenincreaseintrade,businessactivityanddevelopmentinaparticularareaorregion;aneconomicbustisabusinessfailureorbankruptcybecauseoflackofmoney.Theexpressioneconomicboomandbustdescribescyclesinwhichaboomperiodofgrowth,highproductionandrisingpricesisfollowedbyaneconomicdecline,contractionandunemploymentbeforeanewcyclebegins.3.Whenevertheeconomicoutlookisunsettled...(Para3)Theeconomicoutlookisunsettledmeanstheeconomyisunstable,thatis,theeconomyhasproblemsandislikelytochangesuddenly,makingpeopleuncertainaboutwhatmayhappeninthefuture.4.ItwasgivengreaterrespectabilitywhenthegreatFrenchdesigner,Courrèges,developeditintoanitemofhighfashion.(Para4)Forawhiletheminiskirtwascontroversialandnotrespectablebecauseitshowedalargeextentofthewearer'slegs,butwhenCourrègesdevelopeditinParisfashionshows,thisgaveapprovalandsupport,becausetheminiskirtcouldbeconsideredanitemofhighfashion(havinghighstatusfromaParisfashionhouse).5....butthepredominantcoloursbecameolivegreenandoatmeal.(Para10)Predominantcoloursrefertothemostcommoncoloursorthosewhichseemmoreimportantorpowerful.6....whichweredescribedbyonecommentatoras"theprimandproperlookisin…"(Para11)Afashionisinwhenitisaneworcurrentstyle,oroutwhenitisout-of-date.7.Duringthewholeperiod,fashionstyleshaverangedwidely,andhaveusuallybeensparkedoffbyadesiretoidentifypeopleasbelongingtoaparticularsub-culture.(Para14)Duringthewholeperiod,therehasbeenawiderangeofdifferentfashionstyles,whichhavebeenusuallystartedbypeople'swishtoshowtheiridentityinawaythatwouldmakethemdistinctfromtherestofsociety.6TranslatetheparagraphintoChinese.Sometimesthehemlineindicator,asit’scalled,canevenprecedeandpredictachangeinthemoodofthestockmarketlongbeforeitactuallyhappens.InSeptember2007,attheNewYorkfashionshows,whichweredisplayingtheirstylesforspring2008,thetrendwasformuchlongerdressesandskirts,manytomid-calforevendowntotheankles.Somepeoplefeltthisshowedthatthehemlineindicatorwasnolongerreliable,andthatdesignersnolongerdictatedwhatpeoplewouldwear.有时候，所谓的裙摆标志甚至能够预示股市的行情。2007年9月的纽约时装展展示了2008年春季流行式样，潮流转向了长衣、长裙，裙摆长及小腿中部，甚至到了脚踝。有人觉得这表明裙摆标志靠不住了，服装设计师已经丧失了对时装的主宰权。DuringtheLondonandNewYorktodrop.Butsureenough,inthefallof2008,thestockmarketindexesfelldramaticallywhenthebankingcrisishittheUS,Europeandthentherestoftheworld.Hemlineswerenolongerfollowingthestockmarket–theywereshowingthewayandindicatingfutureeconomictrends.2008年9月，在伦敦和纽约时装展中，裙摆的高度继续降低。果然，2008年秋天金融危机袭击欧美，并波及全球，股指急剧下跌。这时，裙摆不再被动地追随股市的变化，而是预示股市行情及未来的经济趋势。7TranslatetheparagraphsintoEnglish.一个人的穿着似乎能影响他的行为方式。譬如，在校内要穿校服是中小学生所必须严格遵守的规矩之一。倘若在学生着装整齐划一和行为的统一规范之间不存在一种象征性关联的话，校服便不可能如此盛行。(hardandfast;thereisnodoubtthat;currency;correlation)Whatyouwearseemstodictateyourbehaviour.Takeprimaryschoolandhighschoolstudentsforexample.Oneofthehardandfastrulestheyhave