梭织纱质量标准20105

ESQUELGROIP＜梭织纱质量标准＞2016年05月CONTENTesquelgroupCompactYarn(CompactCotton-TencelYarn)StandardforWoven Page1to2CombedYarn(CombedCotton-TencelYarn)StandardforWoven Page 3to6OrganicYarnStandardforWoven Page7to8SilkYarnandSpunSilkYarnStandardforWOven Page9CardedYarnStandardforWoven Page10CVCandTCStandardforWoven Page11ElasticityYarnStandardforWoven Page 12to14SlubYarnandHomeSpunYarnStandardforWoven Page15Cotton-LinenYarnStandardforWoven Page 16Cotton-SilkYarnStandardforWoven Page17(New)RecycledCottonYarnStandardforWoven Page18OEYarnStandardforWoven Page 19HeatherYarnStandardforWoven Page20to21CottonYarnGradingGuildLine Page 22to24

ESQUELGROUPCompactYarn(CompactCotton-TencelYarn)StandardforWovenESQUELGROUPNe CF40S/1 CF50S/1 CF\CFE60S/1 CF\CFE70S/1CF\CFE80S/1CF90S/1 CF100S/1SpecificationsGradeA1GradeA2GradeA3GradeA4GradeA3HGradeA4HSpecialgradeGradeA1GradeA2SpecialgradeGradeA1GradeA2SpecialgradeGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeA5VariationofcountCV%W1.4W1.7541.8141.8141.8141.8141.8141.441.7541.7541.541.8041.8041.6041.8041.841.841.8Countdeviation%W±3W±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±3EvennessCV%W11.5W12.0412.0412.0412.0413.0413.0412.3412.3412.3412.8413413412.9413.4414.7415.1415.5Thinplace-50%W0.54141414142424343434345454549414430460Thickplace+50%W10W12415415415435435416421421424428428426440447455470Neps+140%W13541504150415041504450445041164135416041604179423041804300437044404500Neps+200%W3044044744744747247242843544043844346044848149041004120HairinessHW4.044.044.044.044.044.044.043.043.143.142.943.043.042.842.942.742.542.4StrengthCN(5m/min)23802340228022602240228022602300229022502245CF按^235;CFE按N230221022102203216521472135StrengthCV%W8.148.148.148.148.148.348.348.248.448.448.648.848.848.849.049.5410.0412.5StrengthCN(Min)295Elongation%25.725.725.725.725.725.725.725.825.625.625.625.425.425.425.225.225.024.2ElongationCV%W7.347.548.648.648.648.648.647.347.547.547.147.347.647.647.848.449.0411.5TwistperinchT.P.I25.9±5%28.4±5%CF按28.8±5%;CFE按30.8±5%31.2±5%33±5%37±5%40±5%TwistCV%W54545454545454545454545454545454545A3+B3+C3+D2/100kmW1.043.043.043.043.047.047.040.541.041.040.541.041.040.741.141.541.742.0A2W154354554554554100410043.045.045.043.045.045.042.045.0410.0415420B2042.042.042.042.046.046.041.241.941.941.241.941.941.241.948.5410.5412.5C2000000040.541.041.040.541.041.040.641.041.041.542.0A1W1004150417241724172435043504254404404604160注：1、共20项指标，其中条干不匀CV%、细节、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结、强力、A3+B3+C3+D2/100km、A2、B2、C2及A1为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标中，强力、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，同时需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、CF40十万米有害纱疵新标准是GES测试仪器更新为5型机（USTER®CLASSIMAT5）后，根据测试数据而修定的。5、对于CF80、CF90、CF100来纱布面效果全部需达N纱水平。 Page1

ESQUELGROUPCompactYarn(CompactCotton-TencelYarn)StandardforWovenESQUELGROUPNeSpecificationsCF60S/2CF70S/2CF80S/2CF100S/2CF120S/2CF140S/2CF170S/2CF200S/2GradeAGradeASpecialgradeGradeA1GradeA2GradeA3SpecialgradeGradeA1GradeA2GradeAGradeAGradeAGradeAVariationofcountCV%41.741.741.2541.741.741.741341.7541.7541.7541.841.841.8Countdeviation%W±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±3EvennessCV%49.449.849.9410.2410.4410.4411411.2411.2411.9413.0412.3413.5Thinplace-50%000000000414648410Thickplace+50%424345454545474949415.0420420420Neps+140%4454604604804804100485413041304160417041804210Neps+200%41141349415415417415424424440452455465HairinessH44.044.043.944.044.044.043.543.643.643.543.142.742.6StrengthCN(5m/min)2475243023902380234023002300229022502240220021832145StrengthCV%47.3547.3546.646.846.846.847.147.347349.0411.049.8411.5StrengthCN(Min)21252100Elongation%262625.225.025.025.025.024.924.924.524.524.524.5ElongationCV%48.3148.3148.348.548.548.548.548.748.749.049.849.8410.5TwistperinchT.P.I21±5%22±5%23.5±5%23.5±5%23.5±5%23.5±5%26.2±5%27.0±5%31.8±5%34.2±5%37.0±5%TwistCV%45%45%45%45%45%45%45%45%45%45%45%45%45%A3+B3+C3+D2/100km41.041.040.541.041.041.040.541.041.041.041.543.043.0A241.541.541.041.541.541.541.041.541.545.045.0415.0418.0B241.041.040.541.041.041.040.741.041.042.043.048.0410.0C240.740.740.340.740.740.740.340.740.741.041.042.042.0A1432422436436436425440440490备注：1、20项指标，其中条干不匀CV%、细节、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结、强力、A3+B3+C3+D2/100km、A2、B2、C2及A1为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标中，强力、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，同时需要参考布面效果。3、对于CF140/2以上高支纱，来纱布面效果全部需达N纱水平。4、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。Page2

ESQUELGROUPCombedYarn(CombedCotton-TencelYarn)StandardforWovenESQUELGROUPSpecificationsNeJC\JE8S/1JC\JE10S/1JC\JE12S/1JC\JE14S/1JC\JE16S/1JC\JE18S/1GradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBVariationofcountCV%41.5141.6041.5141.641.5541.6541.6141.741.7141.7541.7141.71Countdeviation%W±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±3EvennessCV%48.349.048.749.249.249.649.8410.549.8410.4410.5411.0Thinplace-50%000000000000Thickplace+50%42444345434544412444647411Neps+140%410410410415420430Neps+200%444745410434124841545418413420HairinessH48.849.448.849.548.849.548.549.046.947.446.747.0StrengthCN(5m/min)21100211002960296028502850273027102600260025402540StrengthCV%44.545.045.546.847.047.647.048.246.046.546.246.5TenacityCN/Tex216.27214.92216.8216.8217.29217.29217.80216.85217.09216.8216.48216.48Elongation%26.526.026.526.526.526.026.326.026.526.026.526.0ElongationCV%45.045.545.045.346.547.046.347.046.046.545.545.5TwistperinchT.P.IJC按10±5% (JE按0〜10%) JC按11.5±5% (JE按0〜10%) JC按13.0±5% (JE按0〜10%) JC按13.5±5% (JE按0〜10%) JC按14.7±5% (JE按0〜10%) JC按15.7±5% (JE按0〜10%) TwistCV%4545.54545.54545.54545.545454545A3+B3+C3+D2/100km41.045.041.045.041.045.041.045.041.045.041.045.0A245.049.045.049.045.049.045.049.045.049.045.049.0B2045.0045.0045.0045.0045.0045.0C2000000000000A1427475427475427475427475427475427475备注：1、20项指标，其中条干不匀CV%、细节、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结、强力、A3+B3+C3+D2/100km、A2、B2及C2为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标强力、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，同时需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、十万米有害纱疵新标准是GES测试仪器更新为5型机（USTER®CLASSIMAT5）后，根据测试数据而修定的。Page3

CombedYarn(CombedCotton-TencelYarn)StandardforWovenNeSpecificationsJC\JE20S/1JC\JE25S/1JC\JE30S/1JC\JE32S/1GradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBVariationofcountCV%W1.8141.8141.8141.8141.8141.8141.8141.81Countdeviation%W±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±3EvennessCV%W10.6411411.5412.0412.2412.7412.5413.5Thinplace-50%000041434143Thickplace+50%W8413411415412425417425Neps+140%44046041104125Neps+200%W19425422428425447430452HairinessH46.546.846.546.845.446.645346.5StrengthcN(5m/min)24702470242024002330231023162290StrengthCV%46.546.546.046.548.348.548348.5TenacitycN/Tex216.95216.95217.8216.95216.78215.76217.14215.73Elongation%26.526.526.526.025.625.025.625.0ElongationCV%46.546.546.547.047.749.347.949.5TwistperinchT.P.IJC按16.5±5% (JE按0〜10%) JC按20.5±5% (JE按0〜10%) JC按22.5±5% (JE按0〜10%) JC按23.2±5% (JE按0〜10%) TwistCV%454545454545.54545.5A3+B3+C3+D2/100km42.043.042.043.043.047.043.047.0A2419432419432430462419462B242.045.042.045.043.0410.043.0410.0C20000043.0043.0A141364150413641504180434141804341备注：1、20项指标，其中条干不匀CV%、细节、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结、强力、A3+B3+C3+D2/100km、A2、B2、C2及A1为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标中，强力、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，同时需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、十万米有害纱疵新标准是GES测试仪器更新为5型机（USTER®CLASSIMAT5）后，根据测试数据而修定的。Page4

CombedYarn(CombedCotton-TencelYarn)StandardforWoven^^^-^^^NeSpecificationsJC\JE40S/1JC40S/1JC\JE50S/1SpecialgradeGradeA1GradeA2GradeA3GradeA2HGradeA1GradeA2GradeA3VariationofcountCV%W1.81W1.81/1.81/1.81/1.81W1.81W1.81W1.81Countdeviation%W13W±3/±3/±3/±3/±3/±3/±3EvennessCV%W13.5W12.5/13.6/13.6/13.6W12.9W12.9W12.9Thinplace-50%W3W2W3W3W3/2/2/2Thickplace+50%W25W20/27/27W34W21W21/21Neps+140%W150W220W220/250/600W182W182W182Neps+200%W30W40/40/55W80W42W42/42HairinessHW4.5/5W5.0W5.0W5.0W3.9W3.9W3.9StrengthCN(5m/min)22602280226022402260228022502230StrengthCV%W8.6W8.6/8.6/8.6/8.8W8.8/8.8W8.8TenacityCN/Tex217.84219.22217.84218.53224.01221.44219.73Elongation%25.625.325.325.325.325.825.825.8ElongationCV%W8.6W8.8/8.8/8.8W8.8W8NW8.2W8.2TwistperinchT.P.IJC按25.9±5%(JE按0〜10%)25.9±5%JC按28.4±5%JE按293(JE按0〜10%)TwistCV%W5/5W5W5W5W5W5/5A3+B3+C3+D2/100kmW1.0/5.0/5.0W5.0W13W1.9/1.9/1.9A2W23W45/45/45W150W8W8/8B2W3.0/5.0/5.0/5.0W15W2.1W2.1/2.1C20/1.0/1.0/1.0/1.0/0.7/0.7/0.7A1W219/350/350/350/600W40W40/40备注：1、20项指标，其中条干不匀CV%、细节、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结、强力、A3+B3+C3+D2/100km、A2、B2、C2及A1为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标中，强力、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，同时需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、JC\JE40十万米有害纱疵新标准是GES测试仪器更新为5型机（USTER®CLASSIMAT5）后，根据测试数据而修定的。Page5

ESQUELgroupCombedYarn(CombedCotton-TencelYarn)StandardforWovenESQUELgroupNeJC\JE20S/2JC\JE25S/2JC\JE30S/2JC\JE32S/2JC\JE40S/2JC\JE50S/2JC\JE60S/2JC\JE80S/2JC\JE100S/2SpecificationsVariationofcountCV%SpecialgradeW1.51GradeAW1.51GradeB41.51Specialgrade41.51GradeA41.51GradeB41.51GradeA41.51GradeB41.51GradeA41.51GradeB41.51GradeA241.51GradeA141.51GradeA241.51GradeA41.61GradeB41.67GradeA141.71GradeA241.71Specialgrade41.81GradeA41.81Countdeviation%W±3W±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±3EvennessCV%W7.6W7.849.548.148.441048.749.548.749.549.049.549.5410411.9410.8410.8411.5411.5Thinplace-50%0042004204204200004300041Thickplace+50%414243414243424342434242424349494946412Neps+140%4184254184254284354354424130413041104180Neps+200%41424541434543454345454747410420420420417427HairinessH46.547.046.547.046.044.944.945.245.545.045.043.844.0StrengthcN(5m/min)2109821000210002840284028202620260026102600251025802510247023602340230022502250StrengthCV%W4.545.545.544.545.545.546.046.546.046.547.047.147.147.147.147.147.148.148.3TenacityCN/Tex218.61216.95217.15217.89217.8921735218.1224.5222.3223.92183223.1220.3221.2220.3Elongation%27.927.127.127.526.526.525.025.025.025.025.425.525.525.525.525.025.025.825.8ElongationCV%W6.346.54746.346.54745.046.045.046.046.847.847.847.848.848.048.048.148.3TwistperinchT.P.I13.6±5%14.9±5%JC按14.JE按86±5%L6±5%JC按15.16±5%JE按16.4±5%18.5±5%20.0±5%21±5%23.5±5%26.2±5%TwistCV%W5454545454545454545454545454545454545A3+B3+C3+D2/100kmW543.043.0043.043.041.045.041.045.042.043.043.043.045.041.341.341.041.5A2048.048.040.548.048.048.042048.042041542042042043544.044.042.045.0B2W0.542.042.0042.042.041.042.041.042.041.041.041.041.043.042.042.041.042.0C2000000000000041.041.041.041.040.741.5A14304304304304354754354754504100410041204180436436425440备注：1、20项指标，其中条干不匀CV%、细节、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结、强力、A3+B3+C3+D2/100km、A2、B2、C2及A1为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标中，强力、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，同时需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、JC/JE20S/2〜60S/2十万米有害纱疵新标准是GES测试仪器更新为5型机（USTER®CLASSIMAT5）后，根据测试数据而修定的。Page6

OrganicYarnStandardforWovenESQUELGROUPNeSpecificationsJO10S/1（100%有机棉）JO12S/1（100%有机棉）JO16S/1（100%有机棉）JO20S/1（100%有机棉）JO25S/1（100%有机棉）JO30S/1（100%有机棉）JO32S/1（100%有机棉）JO40S/1（100%有机棉）JO20S/2（100%有机棉）JO32S/2（100%有机棉）GradeAGradeBGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeAGradeASpecialgradeGradeAGradeAGradeAVariationofcountCV%/1.81W1.81/1.55/1.71/1.81/1.81/1.81/1.81/1.81/1.81W1.81/1.51/1.51Countdeviation%W±3W±3/±3/±3W±3/±3/±3/±3/±3/±3W±3W±3/±3EvenessCV%/8.7W9.2/9.2W9.8/11.2/11.2/11.5/12.7/12.5/13.5W14.2W7.8/8.7Thinplace-50%0000W1/10/2/1W3/600Thickplace+50%/3/543/4/8/11/11/12/17/28/35/2/2Neps+140%/10/20/10W20/40W65/60/115/125/160/280Neps+200%W5/10W3W5W20W25W22W28W30W40W70/1W4HairinessHW8.8W9.5W8.8W6.9/6.8W6.8/6.5/6.0/5.3W5.1W5.6StrengthCN（5m/min）2880288028102580244024402400229522802240223028802560StrengthCV%W5.5W6.8W7.0W6.0/6.6W7.2/6.0/8.5/8.3W8.5W9.2W5.5W6.3Elongation%26.526.026.526.525.125.126.525.025.625.124.827.126.0ElongationCV%/5.5/6.5/6.5W6.0/6.5/7.4W6.5W8.5W7.9W8.5W9.1/6.5W6.6TwistperinchT.P.I11.5±5%13.0±5%14.7±5%16.5±5%20.5±5%22.5±5%23.2±5%25.9±5%13.6±5%15.16±5%TwistCV%/5W5/5W5W5/5W5W5W5W5W5W5W5A3+B3+C3+D2/100km/1.0/5.0/1.5W1.0/2.0W12/1.5/3.0/1.5W1.1W5.0W3.0/0.5A2/5W9/5.0W5.0W50W80W5.0W19W6.0W5.0W45W8.0W2.0B20/5/1.9W1.9/2.0W10/2.0/3.0/2.1W1.2W5.0W2.0/1.0C200/1.0W1.00/1.0W1.00W1.0W1.9W1.00W0.7A1W27/750/136/220W180/40W350/30备注：1、19项指标，其中条干不匀CV%、细节、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结、强力、A3+B3+C3+D2/100km、A2、B2、C2及A1为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标中，其中强力、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，否则需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、打纬试织布面粗节标准：按同支别、同纱型非有机棉原纱相同档次允许布面粗节顺加一个粗节（5码）。5、各支别、类别5%有机棉或100%137有机棉原白纱质量标准参考同纱型、纱支同档次常规原纱标准。6、100%有机棉花灰纱，其质量标准暂参考常规同纱型、同纱支、色系的花灰纱标准。7、JO10、JO20、JO30、JO40GradeA、JO20/2十万米有害纱疵新标准是GES测试仪器更新为5型机（USTER®CLASSIMAT5）后，根据测试数据而修定的。JO40SpecialGrade暂无修定5型机测试的十万米有害纱疵新标准。 Page7

ESQUELGROUPOrganicYarnStandardforWovenESQUELGROUPNeSpecificationsTCFO40S/1（100%有机棉）JVO36S/1（70%有机棉30%涤纶）CFO40S/1（100%有机棉）CFO50S/1（100%有机棉）CFO80S/2（100%有机棉）GradeA1GradeA2GradeA1GradeA2SpecialgradeGradeAGradeBSpecialgradeGradeAGradeAVariationofcountCV%41.8141.8141.8141.8141.8141.81Countdeviation%W±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±3Evenesscv%W12.5413.6412.5413.6412.5413.2413.2413.0413.5410.5Thinplace-50%W243424341424243440Thickplace+50%W2042741942642043043542042545Neps+140%4220422041704170411541504450411541654100Neps+200%W40440435435430445480430450415HairinessH45.045.045.245.243.243.544.242.843.143.6StrengthCN（5m/min）2260224023102290226522602260222022202260StrengthCV%48.848.848.648.647.548.848.848.549.046.8Elongation%25.425.425.525.525.125.024.726.025.525.0ElongationCV%48.848.848.448.447.848.548.848.549.149.5TwistperinchT.P.I25.9±5%24.5±5%25.9±5%28.4±5%TwistCV%45454545454545454545A3+B3+C3+D2/100km41.841.845.045.041.043.041041.041.541.5A248.048.044544544.0455415043.044.041.5B242.142.145.045.041.242.04841.242.041.0C241.041.041.041.040.504140.541.040.7A14350435043541724750430450436备注：1、19项指标，其中条干不匀CV%、细节、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结、强力、A3+B3+C3+D2/100km、A2、B2、C2及A1为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标中，其中强力、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，否则需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、打纬试织布面粗节标准：按同支别、同纱型非有机棉原纱相同档次允许布面粗节顺加一个粗节（5码）。5、各支别、类别5%有机棉或100%137有机棉原白纱质量标准参考同纱型、纱支同档次常规原纱标准，其中CFO80/2137有机棉强力按A1标准。。6、100%有机棉花灰纱，其质量标准暂参考常规同纱型、同纱支、色系的花灰纱标准。7、JVO36、CFO40GradeA/B十万米有害纱疵新标准是测试仪器更新为5型机（USTER®CLASSIMAT5）后，根据测试数据而修定的。CFO40SpecialGrade暂无修定5型机测试的十万米有害纱疵新标准。 Page8

ESQUELGROUPSilkYarnandSpunSilkYarnStandardforWovenESQUELGROUPNeSpecificationsS62S/1S124S/2S50D/3FGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBGradeACountdeviation%W±3《±3《±3《±3《±3Evenesscv%《13.5《15《13《15Thinplace-50%W20《25《2《3Thickplace+50%《95《110《16《29Neps+140%《350《550《120《160Neps+200%《100《150《40《50HairinessH《2.5《2.9《2.5《2.5StrengthCN(5m/min)22352220224022402220StrengthCV%《9.0《11.2《9.0《9.0《11.0Elongation%28.028.026.026.0211.0ElongationCV%《11.5《12.5《11.5《11.5TwistperinchT.P.I32.0±5%17.5±5%TwistCV%《5《5《5《5《5备注：1、13项指标，其中条干不匀CV%、细节、粗节、+200%棉结、强力为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标中，其中强力、粗节、+200%棉结必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，否则需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、100%绢丝B参考标准的来纱，试织净色布粗节W3个/4码，纺飞花“个/4码。Page9

CardedYarnStandardforWoven一、，j-j NeSpecificationsC12S/1C14S/1C16S/1C18S/1C20S/1C25S/1C30S/1C32S/1C36S/1C40S/1C10S/2C32S/2C40S/2Countdeviation%W3434343434343434343434343VariationofcountCV%W2.5142.5142.5142.5142.5142.5142.5142.5143.0143.01424242EvennessCV%412.2412.7413.2413.6413.9414.8415.6416416.4417.349.11413.41414.01Thinplace-50%000004346494164240413419Thickplace+50%420434444454462495412541454175420542435448Neps+200%43244245947949041554220426043404420434834115HairinessH48.047.647.246.946.746.145.745.545.345.1410.543.847.5StrengthCN5m/min2730261025302492.524212350.622862267223622112195025612447StrengthCV%45.545.846.146.446.647.247.647.948.248.548.548.548.5TenacityCN/Tex215.6215.4215.3215.2215.2215.04214.6214.57214.57214.47216.7215.4215.3Elongation%28.22827.727.527.42726.826.726.526.428.727.527.3ElongationCV%44.945.245.545.745.946.546.947.247.547.849.2149.5149.81TwistperinchT.P.I13.0±5%13.5±5%14.7±5%15.7±5%16.5±5%20.5±5%22.5±5%23.2±5%24.0±5%25.9±5%8.69±5%15.17±5%18.13±5%TwistCV%45454545454545454545454545A3+B3+C3+D2/100km42.342.342.342.342.342.342.342.342.342.342.342.342.3A2411411411411411411411411411411411411411B243434343434343434343434343C240.340340.340.340.340.340.340.340.340.340340.3403备注：1、18项指标，其中条干不匀CV%、细节、粗节、+140%棉结、+200%棉结、强力、A3+B3+C3+D2/100km、A2、B2及C2为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标中，强力、粗节、+140%棉结、+200%棉结必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，否则需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。Page10

CVCandTCStandardforWovenNeSpecificationsCVC14S/1CVC20S/1CVC40S/1CVC45S/1CVC50S/1CVC80S/2CVC100S/2TC80S/2GradeAGradeAGradeA1GradeA2GradeA3GradeA1GradeA2GradeA1GradeA2GradeA1GradeA2GradeASpecialGradeGradeACountdeviation%W±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±3VariationofcountCV%41.7541.85EvennessCV%W9.8410.6413.2413.2413.2413.6413.6414414410.8410.8411.5412.0413.0Thinplace-50%004343434343474700414143Thickplace+50%W4484334334334394394474474949412410418Neps+140%41544041894189418942384238429342934130413041804804125Neps+200%W8419442442442453453465465420420427415425HairinessH48.546.544.344.344.344.144.143.843.845.045.044.044.044.5StrengthCN(5m/min)28502520228022602240225022332240221023102290225023502320StrengthCV%47.046.548.348.348.348.648.648.948.947.147.148.349.249.8Elongation%26.326.526.926.926.926.826.826.726.725.025.025.828.528.0TwistperinchT.P.I13.5±5%17.9±5%25.9±5%28.5±5%29.5±5%27.5±5%29.2±5%27.5±5%TwistCV%4545454545454545454545454545A3+B3+C3+D2/100km41.541.545454541.841.8454541.341.341.541.042.0A24545445445445484844544544444546412B241.941.945.045.045.042.142.145.045.04242424243C2414141.041.041.0414141.041.0414141.540.741.0A143504350435043504350备注：1、18项指标，其中条干不匀CV%、细节、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结、强力、A3+B3+C3+D2/100km、A2、B2及C2为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标中强力、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，否则需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、CVC40、CVC50十万米有害纱疵新标准是测试仪器更新为5型机（USTER®CLASSIMAT5）后，根据测试数据来进行修定的。Page11

ElasticityYarnStandardforWovenESQUELGROUPNeSpecificationJL40s\40DJL50s\40DJL60s\30DJL80s\20DJL10s\40DJL10s\70DJL16s\40DJL16s\70DJL20s\70DJL30s\70DGradeA1GradeA2SpecialgradeGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeACountdeviation%W40.0±3%《40.0±3%《50±3%《50±3%《60±3%《80±3%《80±3%《10±3%《10±3%《16±3%《16±3%《20±3%《30±3%CountCV%1.81.8《1.8《1.8《1.9《1.93《1.93《1.8《1.8《1.8《1.8《1.8《1.8EvennessCV%《14.0《14.0《12.9《13.7《13.9《14.86《16.8《9.0《9.0《10.0《10.0《11.0《13.0Thinplace-50%W4《4《3《3《5.0《41《110《0《0《0《0《0《2Thickplace+50%《30《30《20《28《42《78《192《2《2《4《4《8《20Neps+140%《250《250《150《230《240《310《690《7《7《20《20《30《45Neps+200%《50《50《35《55《55《69《200《2《2《6《6《10《12HairinessH《5.4《5.4《4.0《4.2《3.8《2.96《3.0《7.7《7.7《7.5《7.5《6.5《5.4StrengthCN(5m/min)2300221022302230221021432131292029202570257024502300StrengthCV%《10.0《10.0《8.8《9.6《10.5《11.9《13.5《8.0《8.0《8.2《8.2《8.2《8.5TenacityCN/Tex219.3214.19218.84217.33218.85Elongation%27.527.529.028.528.027.027.028.528.528.028.028.028.0TwistperinchT.P.I29±5%31±5%32.5±5%41±5%16±5%16±5%19±5%19±5%22±5%23.0±5%TwistCV%《5《5《5《5《5《5《5《5《5《5A3+B3+C3+D2/100km《1.9《1.9《1.0《1.9《1.9《2.0《3.5《1.0《1.0《1.0《1.0《1.0《1.5A2《8.0《8.0《5.0《8.0《8.0《23《45《5.0《5.0《5.0《5.0《5.0《5B2《6.0《6.0《3.0《5.0《5.0《5.1《10.0《1.9《1.9《1.9《1.9《1.9《2.1C2《2.3《2.3《1.0《2.3《2.3《3.0《5.0《1.0《1.0《1.0《1.0《1.0《1.0Spandexcontent9.0±5%10.5±5%9.3±5%12.5±5%3.5±5%5.1±5%7.5±5%Lycraplies(Lycra丝股数)3322353555备注：1、20项指标，其中条干不匀CV%、细节、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结、强力、A3+B3+C3+D2/100km、A2、B2及C2为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标中，强力、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，同时需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、测试纱支时的预加张力:JL40s\40D加20CN；JL50s\40D加20CN；JL60s\30D加17CN；JL80s\20D加14CN；JL16s\70D加30CN；JL20s\70D加30CN；JL30s\70D加30CN。5、如需测定捻度，所加张力为:JL40s\40D加20CN；JL50s\40D加20CN；JL60s\30D加17CN；JL80s\20D加14CN；JL16s\70D加30CN；JL20s\70D加30CN；JL30s\70D加30CN。6、关于弹力纱氨纶含量的控制：理论（标称）纤维含量按相对值的+/-5%控制。Page12

ElasticityYarnStandardforWovenESQUELGROUPNeSpecificationCL40W40DCL50s/40DCL60s/30DSpecialgradeGradeASpecialgradeGradeASpecialgradeGradeACountdeviationW±3%<±3%<±3%<±3%<±3%<±3%CountCV%W1.81.8<1.8<1.8<1.9<1.9EvennessCV%W12.0<12.5<12.0<12.8<13.0<13.2Thinplace-50%<1<3<1<3<2<3Thickplace+50%420<30<20<25<25<35Neps+140%<100<180<120<180<140<180Neps+200%430<45<30<50<40<55HairinessH<3.4<3.6<2.8<3.1<2.7<2.8StrengthCN(5m/min)224022402240224022102210StrengthCV%<9.0<10.0<9.0<10.0<10.0<11.0Elongation%29.02929.529.529.029.0TwistperinchT.P.I29.5±5%31.0±5%33.5±5%TwistCV%<5<5<5A3+B3+C3+D2/100km<0.5<1.5<0.5<1.5<0.5<2.0A2<4.0<8.0<4.0<8.0<6.0<8.0B2<2.0<6.0<2.5<5.0<3.0<5.0C2<1.0<2.3<1.0<2.3<1.5<2.2Spendexcontent9.0±5%11.0±5%9.3±5%Lycraplies(Lycra丝股数)332备注：1、19项指标，其中条干不匀CV%、细节、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结、强力、A3+B3+C3+D2/100km、A2、B2及C2为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标中，强力、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，同时需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、测试纱支时的预加张力:CL40s/40D加20CN；CL50s/40D加20CN；CL60s/30D加17CN。5、如需测定捻度，所加张力为:CL40s/40D加20CN；CL50s/40D加20CN；CL60s/30D加17CN。6、关于弹力纱氨纶含量的控制：理论（标称）纤维含量按相对值的+/-5%控制。Page13

ESQUELGROUPElasticityYarnStandardforWovenESQUELGROUPNeJAL40sW2DXJAL50s\42DXJAL60s\42DXSpecificationGradeA1GradeA2GradeA3GradeA1GradeA2GradeAEvennessCV%412.5413.6413.6412.5413.6413.9Thinplace-50%424343434345.0Thickplace+50%420430430425435442Neps+140%422042504250422042204240Neps+200%440455455440440455HairinessH4545.045.04545.043.8StrengthCN(5m/min)>34022902240228022502210StrengthCV%48.648.648.648.648.6410.5TenacityCN/Tex219.22>17.84>18.53>19.22>17.84>18.85Elongation%>5.3>5.3>5.3>5.3>5.3>8.0TwistperinchT.P.I28.5±5%31.0±5%32.5±5%TwistCV%454545xlacontent7.6±5%9.5±5%10.5±5%备注：1、13项指标，其中条干不匀CV%、细节、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结、强力为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标中，强力、粗节、+140%棉结（N纱）、+200%棉结必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，同时需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、测试纱支时的预加张力:JAL40s\42DX加20CN；JAL50s\42DX加20CN；JAL60s\42DX加17CN。5、如需测定捻度，所加张力为:JAL40s\42DX加20CN；JAL50s\42DX加20CN；JAL60s\42DX加17CN。6、关于弹力纱XLA含量的控制：理论（标称）纤维含量按相对值的+/-5%控制。Page14

ESQUELGROUPSlubYarnandHomeSpunYarnStandardforWovenESQUELGROUPNeSpecificationsJY10JY12JY14JY16JY20JY26JY30JY32JY40JY50SlubYarnSlubYarnSlubYarnSlubYarnHomeSpun—Yarn—SlubYarnHomeSpun Yarn—SlubYarnSlubYarnHomeSpun—Yarn—SlubYarnSlubYarnHomeSpun—Yarn—SlubYarnHomeSpun Yarn—Countdeviation%W±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±3HairinessHW8.047.247.247.247.446.546.545.645.447.245.345.045.845.945.6StrengthcN(5m/min)293028202650256025502470(411代码:2430)247023602310229022902240226022502220StrengthCV%W6.846.047.046.849.547.049.548.848.849.548.849.049.549.049.0Elongation%26.527.527.026.026.026.526.526.025.625.625.025.425.425.825.0TwistperinchT.P.I17.9±5%20.1±5%22.9±5%28±5%29.3±5%TwistCV%474747474747474747474747474747备注：1、7项指标，其中强力为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标强力必须符合标准要求。3、次要指标中，捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、竹节纱捻度标准不按纱支统一分类，而是按竹节代号分类制定标准，具体标准见《竹节纱各代码捻度标准》，上表为仿手纺纱捻度标准。5、JY50仿手纺纱(HomeSpunYarn)不开发经纱。6、JY20竹节纱中，411竹节代码的纱强力标准暂定为三430CN,其他竹节代码的纱强力标准均为三470CN。Page15

ESQUELGROUPCotton-LinenYarnStandardforWovenESQUELGROUPNeJM20JM30JM40JM50SpecificationsLinenContent250%LinenContent<50%LinenContent250%LinenContent<50%LinenContent<50%70%Cotton30%HempLinenContent<50%Countdeviation%W±3W±34±34±34±34±34±3HairinessHW7.2W6.846.445.544.844.444.2StrengthcN(5m/min)2430245022602300224022202230StrengthCV%W10.5W9.5411.5410.549.5410.0410.0Elongation%24.625.624.225.024.924.525.0TwistperinchT.P.I21±5%26.5±5%30±5%34±5%TwistCV%W5454545454545备注：1、7项指标，其中强力为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标强力必须符合标准要求。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。Page16

NeJS30JS32JS40JS50CFS60CFS80JS50/2JS60/2JS80/2JS100/2SpecificationsGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeACountdeviation%W±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±3EvennessCV%412.2412.5413.6412.9413.841549.5410410.8411.5Thinplace-50%W14143424642500041Thickplace+50%412417427421457480424349412Neps+140%41104125422041824350480043544241304180Neps+200%425430440442490415047410420427HairinessH45.445.34543.943.5343.345.845.245.044.0StrengthcN(5m/min)2330231622602250223021652580247023402250StrengthCV%48.348.348.848.849.4410.847.147.147.148.3Elongation%25.625.625.425.825.525.025.525.525.025.8ElongationCV%47.747.948.848.249.1410.447.847.84848.3TwistperinchT.P.I22.5±5%23.2±5%27.5±5%29.3±5%34±5%39±5%20±5%22.2±5%23.5±5%26.2±5%TwistCV%45454545454545454545ESQUELGROUPCotton-SilkYarnStandardforWoven备注：Cotton-SilkYarnStandardforWoven1、特殊混纺纱，13项指标，暂仅以强力CN为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标强力CN必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，同时需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、上述棉丝标准是针对棉成分不低于70%的棉丝纱而建立的，不在此成分范围的新开发纱线暂不适用于此标准。5、60S和80S高支单纱需用紧密纺生产。Page17

ESQUELGROUPNewRecycledCottonYarnStandardforWovenESQUELGROUPNeJCXR20JCXR30JCXR32JCXR40JCXR50JCXR30/2JCXR32/2JCXR40/2SpecificationsGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeAGradeACountdeviation%W±34±34±34±34±34±34±34±3EvennessCV%W11.7412.84133414.0413.449.4410.0411.2Thinplace-50%W142424444000Thickplace+50%424452452470460424248Neps+140%W1304350435046004500420420480Neps+200%424480480412041004444416HairinessH46.546.045.745.744.648.048.046.4StrengthcN(5m/min)24702310229022402250262026102510StrengthCV%46.647.648.549.049.047.247.846.9Elongation%25.825.725.725.425326.025.825.6ElongationCV%48.048.548.7410.048345.245.446.3TwistperinchT.P.I20±5%24±5%24.8±5%30.4±5%29.5±5%14.86±5%15.16±5%18.4±5%TwistCV%4545454545454545备注：1、特殊纱，13项指标，暂仅以强力CN为主要指标，其余为次要指标。2、主要指标强力CN必须符合标准要求；其它主要指标允许有二项超标，但不超过下一等级的相应标准，同时需要参考布面效果。3、次要指标中，纱支、捻度偏差超标，视实际情况，必要时与技术、计划沟通，以便确认是否有条件接受；其它次要指标仅供参考，同时参考布面效果。4、上述标准同时适用于再生棉纱、新再生棉纱、再生棉正常棉混纺纱等以JCXR为纱型表示的纱。Page18

ESQUBLgroupOEYarnStandardforWovenESQUBLgroupNeSpecifications5.5s6s7s8s10s12s14s16s20sGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBGradeAGradeBCountdeviation%<2.51/4<2.51<2.51<4<2.51<4<2.51<4<2.51<4<2.51<4<2.51<4<2.51<4VariationofcountCV%<2<3<2<2<3<2<3<2<3<2<3<2<3<2<3<2<3EvennessCV%W1