纺织纤维的分类(Textile Fiber Classification)

1、第一章 纺织纤维的分类（Textile Fiber Classification）纺织纤维(textile fiber)纺织纤维纺织纤维 纤维长度达到数十毫米以上，具有一定的强度、一定的可挠曲性和相互纠缠抱合性能和其他服用性能而可以生产纺织制品（如纱线、绳带、机织物、针织物）的，叫纺织纤维纺织纤维。 纤维可纺纱的条件： 1 必须具有一定的细度,一定的长度,一定的长细比例及均匀度; 2 必须具有一定的强力,变形能力,弹性,耐磨性,刚柔性,抱合性和摩擦力;如金属丝，藕丝 3 应具有一定的吸湿性、导电性和热学性质；如金属丝 4 应具有一定的化学稳定性和良好的染色性能； 特种纤维用纺织纤维还有特别的要

2、求，如轮胎用帘子线，要耐疲劳；帐篷布要耐日晒；宇航服要耐高温；降落伞要强力高。纺织纤维的分类天然纤维1 天然纤维素纤维（natural cellulose fiber）种子纤维（seed hairs）韧皮纤维( bast fibers)叶子纤维(leaf fibers)果壳纤维(nut husk fibers) Since primitive times, human Since primitive times, human beings began to use natural fiber beings began to use natural fiber clothing. Initial

3、ly, humans rely on clothing. Initially, humans rely on animal skins and fur of body, and animal skins and fur of body, and later learned to weave crude textiles. later learned to weave crude textiles. They plant the vines of flexible fibers They plant the vines of flexible fibers woven into the orig

4、inal rough cloth.woven into the original rough cloth. It records the history of Chinese science It records the history of Chinese science and technology, China has emerged in the 4000-and technology, China has emerged in the 4000-5000 years ago, silk and linen fabrics, 3000 5000 years ago, silk and

5、linen fabrics, 3000 years ago felt, cotton fabric 2000 years ago. years ago felt, cotton fabric 2000 years ago. She has mastered all the operating She has mastered all the operating processes such as tripping processes such as tripping cottonseedcottonseed , ,elastic cotton, volume elastic cotton, v

6、olume sliversliver ,spinning cotton yarn, woven cotton,spinning cotton yarn, woven cotton. Huang Daopo, Song to the Yuan Dynasty famous Huang Daopo, Song to the Yuan Dynasty famous textile expert , textile expert , Cotton fibers are the seeds of plant fiber , which is the most important textile fibe

7、r that human has used for a long history. 棉纤维属于植物纤维中的种子纤维，是人类使用历史较长的重要纺织纤维。 China, India, Egypt, Peru, Brazil, the United States are the worlds major cotton producing area. Yellow River, Yangtze River, south, northwest, northeast are five major cotton-producing regions of China. 中国、印度、埃及、秘鲁、巴西、美国等为世

8、界主要棉纤维产地。 黄河流域、长江流域、华南、西北、东北为我国五大产棉区。Fiber Properties: Cotton fibers are composed of an outer(skin) and a primary wall , a secondary wall ,and a century core ,or lumen . 棉纤维为多层状带中腔结构。 Immature fibers exhibit thin wall structures and a large lumen ,whereas mature fibers have thick walls and a small l

9、umen that may not be continuous ,because the wall close the lumen in some sections. 未成熟纤维显示薄壁结构和一个大的中腔，相反，成熟纤维则有厚的细胞壁和一个小的中腔，且没有连续，因为细胞壁在某一部分和中腔接近。 Cotton fibers are thin long and soft, with a high moisture regain . 棉纤维细长柔软，吸湿性好。 Cotton fiber is a moisture and strong porous material. The internal mo

10、lecular arrangement is not regular, with a large number of hydrophilic molecular structure inside. 绵纤维是多孔性物质，内部分子排列很不规则，且分子中含有大量的亲水结构。 因此，在正常的情况下，纤维可向周围的大气中吸收水分，其含水率为8-10%。当人们穿棉织物时，会感到柔软而不僵硬 - As the warm cotton fiber is a poor conductor of heat and electricity, thermal conductivity is very low, bec

11、ause of its porous nature of cotton fibers, the advantages of high flexibility, can accumulate large amounts of air between the fibers, the air is hot and electric the bad conductor, so cotton fiber products have good moisture retention, use cotton products make people feel warm.保暖性-由于棉纤维是热和电的不良导体，热

12、传导系数极低，又因棉纤维本身具有多孔性，弹性高优点，纤维之间能积存大量空气，空气又是热和电的不良导体，所以，纯棉纤维制品具有良好的保湿性，使用纯棉制品使人感觉到温暖。 棉纤维缺点 Easy to fold - less flexible cotton fiber. 易皱-棉纤维弹性较差。 Large shrinkage - there is a strong absorbent cotton fiber, when it absorbs moisture so that after the expansion of cotton fiber, cotton yarn caused by red

13、uced deformation 缩水率大-棉纤维有很强的吸水性，当其吸收水份后令棉纤维膨胀，引致棉纱缩短变形。 - Mildew in damp conditions, such as the case of bacteria or fungi, cotton fibers will be broken down into nutrients - they like glucose, so that the fabric moldy 霉变-在潮湿的状态下，如遇细菌或真菌，棉纤维会分解成它们喜欢的营养物质-葡萄糖，使面料发霉变质。 Despite the poor - Moisture abs

14、orption and strong, but not dry 排湿性差-尽管吸湿力强，但不易干燥。 Cotton fiber, such as prolonged exposure to daylight, strong reduction will be hard-brittle fibers, such as the case of oxidant, with oxidizing bleach or dye, but also will decrease fiber strength, fiber brittle hair hard. 棉纤维如长时间与日光接触，强力降低，纤维会硬发脆，如

15、遇氧化剂、漂白粉或具有氧化性的染料，也会使纤维强力下降，纤维发脆发硬。 Colored cotton With the development of agricultural technology, the natural color of cotton fiber has emerged.韧皮纤维（bast fibers）The Pharaoh of Egypt s mummies are wrapped in linen bandages.The bast fiber consist of flax, ramie, jute, hemp.Flax is a bast fiber-a woo

16、dy（木质的） fiber obtained from the phloem（韧皮部 ）of plants. It derives from the stalk（茎） or stem of Linum suitatssimum （亚麻属植物）（亚麻属植物）. The use of linen in Egypt between 3000and 2500B.C. has been verified.Physical Properties Flax fiber is not so fine as cotton, is longer than cotton. The natural color of

17、flax varies from light ivory to gray. While, the color of cotton fibers vary from almost pure white to a dirty gray.The nature of flax Flax is a strong fiber. Fabrics of flax are durable and easy to maintain because of the fiber strength. When wet, the fiber is about 20 percent stronger than when dr

18、y. The amount of elongation that flax will undergo before breaking is very small. Linen fabrics are prone to crease and wrinkle badly. They are somewhat stiff and posses little resiliency. It is these characteristics, it can be made into sacks and hemp rope, etc. Flax has low pliability or flexibili

19、ty, which may result in increased serviceability. Flax has a standard moisture regain of about 12 percent. The saturation regain is comparable to that other cellulosic fibers(纤维素纤维). Flax has outstanding wicking properties（芯吸性）, which makes it possible to make dress and socks.Flax fibers do not shri

20、nk or stretch to any marked degree. However, as in the case of cotton, yarns and fabrics are subject to some relaxation shrinkage. Ironing linen fabrics while damp will help stretch them back to their original size.The strength of flax fibers makes it possible to manufacture a wide variety of yarns,

21、 from very fine to very heavy, which can be used to make a wide variety of fabrics, from sheer and loose to heavy and compact.There is a gradual loss of strength when linen fabrics are exposed to sunlight ,but this is not serious. consequently, flax makes a good choice for curtain .Dry linen has exc

22、ellent resistance to mildew（霉菌）, but if the fabric is moist or stored in a humid atmosphere, mildew will grow rapidly and damage the fiber, so linen fabric should be placed in a dry environment.The nature resistance of flax to chemicals, including detergents, bleaches, other laundry aids, and dry-cl

23、eaning solvents, provides a fabric that is easily maintained. Further, these properties, plus resistance to sunlight, inherent fiber strength, and resistance to aging, result in fabrics with a long life. In addition to the flax plant there are a lot of hemp plant is produced in life and industry, fo

24、r example in Apocynum. Its leaves can be used to make tea, have lower blood pressure , reducing blood lipid and preventing cold effects. Its bark（树皮） is a natural material, can use the apocynum fiber finishing textile and clothing has good air permeability（透气性）, hygroscopicity（吸湿性） strong, soft, ant

25、ibacterial, the winter heat and summer cold characteristics .Therefore apocynum fiber can advanced material, fishing line, leather line, raincoats and senior paper.Apocynum（罗布麻属）天然蛋白质纤维(natural protein fiber)毛纤维wool fiber 羊毛wool 兔毛rabbit hair 狗绒boss 一条狗可抓克绒，与羊相当，具有肉用价值，天津工大开发发纤维hair fiber 羊绒cashmere

26、(开司米) 仿羊绒cash merelike 羊驼Alpaca(阿尔巴卡)，产于秘鲁 马海毛Mohair骆驼毛牦牛毛 以上纤维是最贴近皮肤的一层细薄绒毛,因其多生长在高寒地带,故保暖性极佳,其产量低,所以价格昂贵,又称“软黄金”或“纤维钻石”。丝纤维silk 腺体分泌物（section） 家蚕丝 cultivated silk 柞蚕丝 wild silk3矿物纤维（mineral fiber） 从纤维状结构的矿石岩石中获得的纤维 石棉askestes (二)化学纤维(man-made fiber）) 1再生纤维（regenerated fiber） 采用天然聚合物为原料，经过化学方法制成的与

27、原聚 合物在化学组成上基本相同的化学纤维，称再生纤维。再生纤维素纤维 粘胶纤维 viscose/rayon 天丝 tencel/LYOCELL/莫代尔纤维 铜氨纤维 cuprammonium fiber再生蛋白质纤维 大豆纤维 奶酪纤维 甲壳素纤维 海藻酸钠纤维2 合成纤维 (synthetic fiber)由天然小分子化合物经人工合成有机聚合物后，再溶解或熔融成液体后抽拔成纤维。涤纶 polyester锦纶 polyamide fiber/nylon腈纶 acrylic fiber 无机纤维（inorganic fiber）,如玻璃纤维(glass fiber) 新型纤维 Thurmax 藕

28、形纤维藕形纤维：弹性极佳，又称中空纤维，如七孔被，九孔被 Coolmax 凉爽纤维凉爽纤维：纤维中有槽子，毛细血管现象，导汗性极强。 ES纤维纤维： 丙纶和涤纶两者，里面是涤纶，熔点较高（160 ），外面是丙纶，熔点较低（110 ）。制成无纺布。放在稍高于110 的温度上烤，丙纶化掉成网状，这种纤维具有弹性。芳纶芳纶 ：防弹衣 防辐射 防切割 （三）三） 天然纤维和化学纤维的异同 For centuries humankind For centuries humankind has relied upon various plants has relied upon various plant

29、s and animals to provide the and animals to provide the raw materials for fabrics and raw materials for fabrics and clothing. clothing. However, in the last However, in the last century scientists have turned century scientists have turned to chemistry and technology to chemistry and technology to c

30、reate and enhance many to create and enhance many of the fabrics we now take for of the fabrics we now take for granted.granted. In1955,manufacturers In1955,manufacturers began to produce a began to produce a new type of rayonnew type of rayonhigh-wet-modulus high-wet-modulus (HWM) rayon(HWM) rayonw

31、hich was somewhat which was somewhat stronger and which stronger and which could be used could be used successfully in sheets, successfully in sheets, towels, and apparel.towels, and apparel. Today rayon is one of the most widely used fabrics in Today rayon is one of the most widely used fabrics in

32、our society. It is made in countries around the world. It our society. It is made in countries around the world. It can be blended with natural or man-made fabrics, treated can be blended with natural or man-made fabrics, treated with enhancements, and even engineered to perform a with enhancements,

33、 and even engineered to perform a variety of functionsvariety of functions.About fibers properties ASTMASTM defines moisture regain as “the moisture in a material determined under prescribed conditions and expressed as a percentage of the weight of the moisture-free specimen. Moisture regainMoisture

34、 regain or absorbencyabsorbency depends on the fiber morphology or molecular arrangement and the pore size in the outer layer of fiber skin. conditioned weight-dry weightPercentage regain= x100 dry weightFible t=20 humidity= aa= 65%a=95%a=100%cotton7-812-1423-27 ramie 7-8 hemp 10-138-22wool15-17 26-

35、2733-36silk8-919-2236-39rayon13-1529-3535-45nylon3.5-5 8-9 10-13polyester0.4-0.50.6-0.71.0-1.1glass0 0-0.3 This table tells us that usually the moisture regain of natural fibers is higher thanhigher than the chemical fibers.However, Rayon Rayon is an exception,its moisture regain is same as the natu

36、ral fibersThis is glass fiberThis is glass fiberHow about the thermal behaviorHow about the thermal behavior ;such as ;such as refractoryrefractory ,specific heat,specific heat, heat conductionheat conductionThermodynamic three-state of fiber material: glass high-elastic viscous state state flow sta

37、te Tg Tt temperatureHere we adopted the following table for the case of Here we adopted the following table for the case of fiber strength in the sunfiber strength in the sun Material cotton wool hemp layon PAN silk nylon PET Sunlight 940 1120 1110 900 900 200 200 600 Time 50 50 50 50 16-25 50 36 60

38、 PANwoolhempcottonlayon PETnylonsilkStrengthLoss This table shows the heat resistance of natural fiber and chemical fiber is more or less same,but the heat resistance of chemical fibers is slightly lower than the natural fibers. In the natural fiber ,cellulose fiber better than protein fibers.The ex

39、pansion of fiber performance in the waterFiber typesSd（）Sl（）Sa（）Sv（）cotton203040424244silk16.3193032wool151725263641Viscose rayon25523.74.85011474127Copper ammonia fiber325326566268107Acetate fiber9140.10.368As is vividly indicated in the above chart , As is vividly indicated in the above

40、chart , Moisture after the fiber volume Moisture after the fiber volume expansion. The lateral expansion of the expansion. The lateral expansion of the fiber is large while the longitudinal fiber is large while the longitudinal expansion of the fiber is small.expansion of the fiber is small.What is

41、more ,the man-made fibers and What is more ,the man-made fibers and the natural fibers are all different, they the natural fibers are all different, they all do not have the same law.all do not have the same law.Common varieties of fiber lengthCommon varieties of fiber lengthFiber varietiesFiber var

42、ietiesLengthLengthFiber varietiesFiber varietiesLengthLengthUpland25 31Manila hemp3 20Sea Island cotton33 46Hemp5 55Fine wool40 100The long fiber55 65Semi-fine wool70 300Wool fiber76 120Cashmere22 36Cotton fiber38 41mohair45 70ramie20 200Silk60 1300jute1.5 5flax12 24We can also find the difference o

43、r sameness between We can also find the difference or sameness between natural fibers and chemical from natural fibers and chemical from identificationidentification Most natural fiber and chemical fiber are flammable Black floc objects have left after natural fiber burned，but the black hard object

44、is left for chemical fiber Natural fibers do not change near the fire source But chemical fiber close to the fire to melt When natural fiber burned ,you will smell a smell like burning paper or burning feather; but so many kinds of smell have existed for chemical fiber.Fiber cross section Fiber cros

45、s section shape shape with fiber kinds with fiber kinds and different.and different.Natural fiber has its own form.Natural fiber has its own form.Chemical fiber accChemical fiber accor ording to the will of the ding to the will of the people can be shaped design silk spray holes people can be shaped

46、 design silk spray holes to get various special-shaped cross-section to get various special-shaped cross-section of fiber.of fiber.桑蚕丝横截面山羊绒横截面 (三)天然纺织纤维应用现状与前景分析 一 、全球天然纺织纤维的发展图1 全球天然纺织纤维的发展注：注：1800年年 160.0 万吨万吨 2006年年 2709万吨万吨年份天然纤维合计*棉纤维绵羊毛纤维生丝1800160.0122.037.70.301850220.0173.046.530.471890305.

47、10230.1473.771.191900392.09316.274.231.661910503.77421.080.522.161920547.05462.982.042.111930698.60592.7100.215.091940808.54697.1111.445.981950771.93664.7105.351.8819601200.211011.3145.813.1019701342.441178.2160.154.0919801590.911425.4160.505.6119902073.711871.4195.46.9120002059.631917.0132.89.83200

48、12209.122070.5127.511.1220022068.631931.9126.310.4320032194.172060.6122.011.5720042754.662620.0122.312.3620052577.452439.4122.815.2520062709.002570.7122.715.60表1. 二百年来棉毛丝纤维的发展（万吨） 纤维品种全球年产量中国年产量中国加工量棉纤维（皮棉）棉纤维（皮棉）2570.72570.7664.6664.61011.41011.4麻纤维麻纤维 249.0249.0 38.2538.25 56.3656.36苎麻（精干麻） 13.4 1

49、1.35 11.00亚麻（打成麻） 44.1 10.30 25.86黄麻（熟麻） 165.4 0.00 2.90槿麻（熟麻） 18.415.8 15.8 汉（大）麻（精干麻） 6.8 0.4 0.4 其他麻纤维（净麻） 0.9 0.4 0.4毛纤维毛纤维 133.87133.87 9.599.59 36.8536.85 绵羊毛（洗净毛）122.78.3 35.97 山羊绒（无毛绒） 1.270.89 0.61 其他动物毛（净毛） 9.90.40 0.27丝纤维丝纤维15.615.614.514.511.211.2 桑蚕丝（生丝、绢丝）16.514.1510.9其他丝纤维 1.10.35 0.3

50、0天然纤维合计天然纤维合计2971.172971.17726.94726.941115.811115.81表2 2006年天然纤维生产量及加工（万吨） 纤维品种全球年产量中国年产量棉纤维（皮棉）棉纤维（皮棉）2339.62339.6672.80672.80麻纤维麻纤维283.4283.436.4336.43苎麻（精干麻）25.022.30亚麻（打成麻）79.28.55黄麻（熟麻）140.00.03槿麻（熟麻）19.44.78 汉（大）麻（精干麻）3.40.44剑麻（熟麻）16.40.29其他麻纤维0.90.09毛纤维毛纤维121.36121.3610.01510.015绵羊毛（洗净毛）119.

51、108.50山羊绒（无毛绒）1.140.85牦牛绒（无毛绒）0.170.10骆驼绒（无毛绒）0.070.015兔毛0.630.50其他毛纤维0.250.05丝纤维丝纤维15.9015.9010.2110.21 桑蚕丝（生丝、绢丝）14.409.86柞蚕丝（生丝）0.750.26其他丝纤维0.350.10天然纤维合计天然纤维合计2760.262760.26729.46729.46表3 2008年全球及中国天然纤维产量（万吨） （1）二百年来，全球天然纤维加工量有了蓬勃的发展，天然纺织纤维总量增长了15.9倍，棉纤维产量增长了21.1倍，毛纤维增长了2.25倍，生丝增长了51倍。但是近20年来，绵

52、羊毛缩减37%。（2）近几年来，全球棉纤维、毛纤维、麻纤维、丝纤维的产量分别有所萎缩和徘徊。（3）近年来，特种纤维使用种类有了增加。（4）但是，今后随着人口增涨，特别是产业用纺织品使用领域扩大，纺织纤维原料需求量还将大幅增加。随着石油、天然气等的逐渐枯竭，纺织纤维原料将逐渐以可再生、可循环、可降解、对环境友好的生物质资源纤维为主要来源。二、中国天然纺织纤维的发展 中国天然纺织纤维六十年来有了长足进步，是全球天然纺织纤维的重要生产大国。棉纤维产量占全球总产量的26绵羊洗净毛占7山羊绒占70桑蚕丝占95柞蚕丝占35苎麻占85亚麻占23槿麻占86年份棉纤维苎麻亚麻黄麻槿麻绵羊毛(净毛）山羊绒(无毛绒

53、)桑蚕丝柞蚕丝194944.440.750.101952130.378121.409.151.691957164.021050.0030.101.940.112.311.381965209.78590.0027.903.380.202.061.191978216.70520.00108.8071.691980270.65752.600.00109.802.341981296.75980.00126.006.940.168.801.841985463.700.00102.07.090.239.382.231988415.76.

54、400.00107.87.980.2513.791.451989378.80.0066.029.970.2714.781.641994434.10.0035.59.950.3525.641.951999382.80.0010.802000432.00.0010.512001479.90.0010.582002492.00.0010.552003486.99.832004631.98.232005581.87.962006706.410.308.300.6114.150.282007807.727.722008672.822.308.550.034.788.500.859.860.26表4 中国天然纤维生产发展情况 经济发达的原纺织大国，由于劳动力成本跃升，价格竞争力优势衰落，产业向第三世界转移。 近二十年来，纺织产业大量向中国转移，使中国成为全球纺织加工的第一大国，导致近年纺织纤维原料不足，每年棉纤维进口量占30-40，绵羊洗净毛占75-78，亚麻占60-70，黄麻几乎全靠进口，为保证棉纤维加工量，2006年以来中国已开始从29个国家进口棉纤维。三、中国天然纺织纤维面临的挑战 （1）进入21世纪以来，全球人口暴增（联合国2000年发布预测2050年全球人口76亿，2009年1月发布预测2050年全