认识其他常见植物提取物

OtherPlantExtracts课前回顾与预习Task1你知道哪些植物提取物？它们在化妆品中能够发挥什么作用？1PART1[Trehalose海藻糖]2PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]3PART3[SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOil霍霍巴籽油]1PART1[Trehalose海藻糖]2PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]3PART3[SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOil霍霍巴籽油]01TASK1[Trehalose海藻糖]CONTENT1[FullText全文阅读]Definition:Thedisaccharidethatconformstotheformulaprovided;trehaloseisthedisaccharideα

(1→1)glucosyl-glucose.Physicalcharacteristics:Orthorhombic,bidphennoidalcrystalsfordilutedalcohol;sweettasteTypicallyfoundinthedihydrateform;characterizedbylowhygroscopicityMolecularweight:342.30Meltingpoint:Thedihydratemeltsat97℃;theanhydrousmeltsat210℃Solubility:Verysolubleinwater,formamide,anddimethylsulfuoxide;solublehotalcohol;slightlysolubletoinsolubelinetherStability:Verystableandchemicallyunreactive;doesnotdissociateintotworeducingmonosaccharidicconstituentsunlessexposedtoextremehydrolyticconditionsortotheactionsoftrehalaseSpecificopticalrotation[α]D20:+178°01TASK1[Trehalose海藻糖]CONTENT1[FullText全文阅读]Naturaloccurrenceandmethodsofpreparation:Foundinfungi,bacteria,yeasts,andinsects;isolatedfromtheergotofrye;isolatedfromyeast.Producedfromstarchusingtheenzymesmaltooligosyl-trehalosesynthaseandmaltooligosyl-trehalosetrehalohydrolase.Functions:Trehalosehasanumberofreportedfunctionsincosemetics,withthemostcommonuseasaskin-conditioningagent.Othercommonlyreportedfunctionsareuseasahumectantorasaflavoringagent.01TASK1[Trehalose海藻糖]CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]Trehalose/'trihəloz/n.[生化]海藻糖Disaccharide/daɪˈsækəraɪd/n.二糖类saccharide/ˈsækəˌraɪd/糖类

monosaccharidic 单糖的Glucose/ˈɡluːkoʊs/n.葡萄糖01TASK1[Trehalose海藻糖]CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]Crystal/ˈkrɪstl/n.结晶Dilute/daɪˈluːt/n.稀释Dihydrate/dai'haidreit/n.二水合物anhydrous/ænˈhaɪdrəs/无水的01TASK1[Trehalose海藻糖]CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]Hygroscopicity/haɪɡrəskɒˈpɪsiti/n.吸湿性Hygro-scop-icityHygro-水的scop 观察，目标，范围-icityHydrolytic/haɪdrəˈlɪtɪk/adj.水解的Hydro-lyticMolecular/məˈlekjələr/adj.分子的molecularweight分子质量averagemolecularweight平均分子量molecularweightdistribution分子量分布relativemolecularmass相对分子质量molecularstructure分子结构01TASK1[Trehalose海藻糖]CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]后缀：-icity[名词后缀] 表示性质、情况、状态periodicity周期性historicity历史性plasticity可塑性elasticity弹性hygroscopicity 吸湿性后缀：-lytic[形容词后缀] hydrolytic 水解的01TASK1[Trehalose海藻糖]CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]Melt/melt/v.融化Meltpoint熔点Dissociate/dɪˈsoʊsieɪt/v.分裂Specificopticalrotationn.比旋光度optical/ˈɑːptɪkl/光学的rotation/roʊˈteɪʃn/旋转01TASK1[Trehalose海藻糖]CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]NaturaloccurrenceIsolate/ˈaɪsəleɪt/v.分离Enzyme/ˈenzaɪm/n.[生化]酶n.天然存在occurrence/əˈkɜːrəns/出现，发生01TASK1[Trehalose海藻糖]连线题MolecularweightMeltingpointSolubilityStabilityNaturaloccurrencemethodsofpreparationFunctions分子量功能熔点天然存在稳定制备方法溶解度CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]01TASK1[Trehalose海藻糖]Definition:Thedisaccharidethatconformstotheformulaprovided;trehaloseisthedisaccharideα(1→1)glucosyl-glucose.Physicalcharacteristics:sweettasteTypicallyfoundinthedihydrateform;characterizedbylowhygroscopicity.Molecularweight:342.30℃：degreecentigrade定义：是一种二糖；海藻糖是α-1,1糖苷键连接的葡糖基葡萄糖双糖物理特性：二水化合物通常具有甜味；具有低吸湿性的特点分子量：342.30CONTENT

3[SentenceParsing句子解析]01TASK1[Trehalose海藻糖]Meltingpoint:Thedihydratemeltsat97℃;theanhydrousmeltsat210℃Solubility:Verysolubleinwater,formamide,anddimethylsulfoxide;solublehotalcohol;slightlysolubletoinsolubelinetherStability:Verystableandchemicallyunreactive;doesnotdissociateintotworeducingmonosaccharidicconstituentsunlessexposedtoextremehydrolyticconditionsortotheactionsoftrehalaseSpecificopticalrotation[α]D20:+178°熔点：二水合物在97℃熔化；无水的在210℃融化溶解性：易溶于水、甲酰胺和二甲基亚砜；可溶于热酒精；微溶或不溶于乙醚稳定性：非常稳定，化学惰性；除非暴露在极端水解条件下或海藻酸酶的作用下，才会分解成两种还原性单糖成分比旋光度[α]D20:+178°CONTENT

3[SentenceParsing句子解析]01TASK1[Trehalose海藻糖]Naturaloccurrenceandmethodsofpreparation:Foundinfungi,bacteria,yeasts,andinsects;isolatedfromtheergotofrye;isolatedfromyeast.Producedfromstarchusingtheenzymesmaltooligosyl-trehalosesynthaseandmaltooligosyl-trehalosetrehalohydrolase.Functions:Trehalosehasanumberofreportedfunctionsincosemetics,withthemostcommonuseasaskin-conditioningagent.Othercommonlyreportedfunctionsareuseasahumectantorasaflavoringagent.ergot/'ɜːgɒt/麦角菌；rye/raɪ/黑麦天然存在和制备方法：在真菌、细菌、酵母和昆虫中存在；从黑麦麦角菌中分离出来；从酵母中分离出来。利用麦芽没糖基海藻糖合成酶和麦芽没糖基海藻糖三卤水解酶从淀粉中生产。功能：据报道，海藻糖在化妆品中有很多功能，最常用的是作为皮肤调理剂。其他常用的功能是用作保湿剂或调味剂。CONTENT

3[SentenceParsing句子解析]1PART1[Trehalose海藻糖]2PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]3PART3[SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOil霍霍巴籽油]02PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]CONTENT1[FullText全文阅读]Ceramideingredientsfunctionprimarilyashairconditioningagentsandskinconditioningagents-miscellaneousincosmetics.Naturally-occurringceramidesarenormalconstituentsoftheskinandareessentialcomponentsoftheepidermalpermeabilitybarrier.Ceramidesareamongthelipidsthatmakeupsphingomyelin,whichisamajorcomponentofthelipidbilayerthatformscellmembranesofcellsinthestratumcorneum.Thus,ceramidesarelipophilicandlikelytobeabsorbedintotheskin.TheoralLD50wasgreaterthan2000mg/kginratstudiesofceramide2,ceramideAP,hydroxypalmitoylsphinganine,and2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol,andgreaterthan5000mg/kginratstudiesofceramideNP.Indermalstudies,theLD50wasgreaterthan2000mg/kginratsexposedtoceramideNP,ceramideAP,or2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol.TheTheCosmeticIngredientReview(CIR)ExpertPanelconcludedthatceramidesweresafeincosmeticsinthepresentpracticesofuseandconcentration,notingthatingredientsderivedfrombovinecentralnervoussystemtissuesarenotpermittedforuseincosmeticproducts.02PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]CONTENT1[FullText全文阅读]Althoughsomeceramidesareplentifulinbovinecentralnervoussystemtissues(e.g.,brainandspinalcord),theU.S.FoodandDrugAdministration(FDA)prohibitstheuseofingredientsderivedfromsuchtissuesincosmeticproductsbecauseoftheriskoftransmittinginfectiousagents,suchasbovinespongiformencephalitis(BSE)(21CFR700.27).Someceramideingredientsmaybederivedfromplantsources(e.g.,thosedesignatedasphytosphingosinesintheINCInamesordefinitions),whichdonotposetherisksassociatedwithingredientsderivedfromthebovinecentralnervoussystem.02PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]Ceramide/'serəmaɪd/n.[生化]神经酰胺Naturally-occurring天然存在的Epidermal/ˈɡluːkoʊs/n.葡萄糖其它神经酰胺胆固醇自由脂肪酸02PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]Epidermal/'epə'dɜːrml/adj.表皮的epidermalpermeabilitybarrier表皮渗透屏障Stratumcorneumstratum/ˈstrɑːtəm/层corneum/'kɔ:niəm/角质层n.角质层CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]02PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]Lipid/'epə'dɜːrml/n.脂质Membrane/ˈmembreɪn/n.膜cellmembranes 细胞膜CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]02PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]Lipophilic

/lɪpəˈfɪlɪk/adj.亲脂性的，亲油性的，亲脂的Hydrophilic/,haɪdrə(ʊ)'fɪlɪk/adj.[化学]亲水的CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]02PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]Sphingomyelin/ˌsfɪŋɡoʊˈmaɪəlɪn/n.（神经）鞘磷脂Tissue/ˈtɪʃuː/n.组织epithelialtissue

上皮组织subcutaneoustissue 皮下组织CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]Sphinganinen.鞘氨醇hydroxypalmitoylsphinganine羟基棕榈酰鞘氨醇hydroxy-palmitoyl01PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]Ceramideingredients

functionprimarilyashairconditioningagentsandskinconditioningagents-miscellaneousincosmetics.神经酰胺成分主要作为头发和皮肤调理剂，是多功能化妆品成分。Naturally-occurringceramides

arenormalconstituentsoftheskinand

areessentialcomponentsoftheepidermalpermeabilitybarrier.天然存在的神经酰胺是皮肤的正常组成成分，是表皮渗透屏障的重要成分。Ceramidesareamongthelipidsthatmakeupsphingomyelin,whichisamajorcomponentofthelipidbilayerthatformscellmembranesofcellsinthestratumcorneum.神经酰胺是构成鞘磷脂的脂质之一，鞘磷脂是形成角质层细胞细胞膜的脂质双分子层的主要成分。Thus,ceramidesarelipophilicandlikelytobeabsorbedintotheskin.因此，神经酰胺具有亲脂性，容易被皮肤吸收。miscellaneous多功能的；essential重要的；sphingomyelin/,sfinɡəu'maiəlin/（神经）鞘磷脂；CONTENT

3[SentenceParsing句子解析]02PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]TheoralLD50

wasgreaterthan2000mg/kg[inratstudiesofceramide2,ceramideAP,hydroxypalmitoylsphinganine,and2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol],andgreaterthan5000mg/kg[inratstudiesofceramideNP].大鼠口服LD50在神经酰胺2、神经酰胺AP、羟基棕榈酰鞘氨醇和2-油酰胺-1,3-十八烷二醇研究中均大于2000mg/kg，在大鼠口服神经酰胺NP研究中LD50大于5000mg/kg。Indermalstudies,theLD50

wasgreaterthan2000mg/kginrats[exposedtoceramideNP,ceramideAP,or2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol].在皮肤研究中，暴露于神经酰胺NP、神经酰胺AP或2-油酰胺-1,3-十八烷二醇的大鼠的LD50大于2000mg/kg。TheCosmeticIngredientReview(CIR)ExpertPanel

concludedthatceramidesweresafeincosmetics[inthepresentpracticesofuseandconcentration],notingthatingredients[derivedfrombovinecentralnervoussystemtissues]arenotpermittedforuseincosmeticproducts.化妆品成分审查(CIR)专家小组的结论是，在目前的使用范围和浓度中，神经酰胺在化妆品中是安全的，并指出，来自牛中枢神经系统组织的成分不允许用于化妆品。LD50

；expose暴露；bovine牛的；centralnervoussystem中枢神经系统CONTENT

3[SentenceParsing句子解析]02PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]Someceramideingredientsmaybederivedfromplantsources(e.g.,thosedesignatedasphytosphingosinesintheINCInamesordefinitions),whichdonotposetherisksassociatedwithingredientsderivedfromthebovinecentralnervoussystem.一些神经酰胺成分可能来自植物(例如，在INCI名称或定义中被指定为植物鞘氨醇的成分)，它们没有那些来自牛中枢神经系统成分的风险。phytosphingosine/,faitəu'sfiŋgəsi:n/植物鞘氨醇；associatedwith与…有关系；与…相联系INCI(InternationalNomenclatureCosmeticIngredient)国际化妆品原料命名CONTENT

3[SentenceParsing句子解析]1PART1[Trehalose海藻糖]2PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]3PART3[SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOil霍霍巴籽油]03PART3[SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOil霍霍巴籽油]CONTENT1[FullText全文阅读]SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOilandSimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedWax,alsocalledJojobaOilandJojobaWax,arenaturalingredientsderivedfromtheseedsofthedesertshrub,Simmondsiachinensis.OtheringredientsmadefromJojobaOilincludeSimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)Butter,HydrogenatedJojobaOil,JojobaEsters,HydrolyzedJojobaEsters,IsomerizedJojobaOilandJojobaAlcohol.SyntheticJojobaOilismixtureofwaxestersoffattyacidsandalcoholsthatisindistinguishablefromnaturaljojobaoilwithregardtochemicalcompositionandphysicalcharacteristics.Amongtheingredientsmadefromjojoba,SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOilismostfrequentlyusedincosmeticsandpersonalcareproducts.ProductcategoriesinwhichSimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)Oilmaybefoundincludebathproducts,eyemakeup,haircareproducts,makeup,nailcareproducts,personalhygieneproducts,shavingproductsandskincareproducts.03PART3[SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOil霍霍巴籽油]CONTENT1[FullText全文阅读]SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOilisobtainedbypressingtheseedkernelsofanevergreenshrubnativetotheSonoranandMojavedesertsofArizona,CaliforniaandMexico.Thisoilisdifferentfromothercommonplantoilsinthatitiscomposedalmostcompletely(97%)ofwaxestersofmonounsaturated,straight-chainacidsandalcoholswithhighmolecularweights(carbonchainlengthsfrom36to46).ThismakesJojobaOilanditsderivativeJojobaEstersmoresimilartosebumandwhaleoilthantotraditionalvegetableoils.JojobaisgrownfortheliquidJojobaOilinitsseeds.JojobaOiliseasilyrefinedtobeodorlessandcolorless.Jojobaoilisalsostabletooxidation.Jojoba(seed)Oilanditsderivativesareusedprimarilyashairconditioningagentsandskinconditioningagents(occlusive).TheCIRExpertPanelevaluatedthescientificdataandbasedontheavailableinformationconcludedthatJojobaOilandtherelatedingredientsweresafeforuseascosmeticingredients.03PART3[SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOil霍霍巴籽油]SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOilSimmondsiaChinensis霍霍巴Jojoba/hoʊˈhoʊbə/霍霍巴CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)Butter 霍霍巴脂HydrogenatedJojobaOil 氢化霍霍巴油JojobaEsters 霍霍巴酯HydrolyzedJojobaEsters 水解霍霍巴酯IsomerizedJojobaOil 异构化霍霍巴油JojobaAlcohol 霍霍巴醇03PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]Monounsaturated/,mɑnoʌn'sætʃə,retɪd/adj.单一不饱和的（油脂）Mono-un-saturatedCarbonchain碳链sebum/ˈsiːbəm/n.皮脂02PART2[Ceramides神经酰胺]CONTENT

2[KeyWords&Phrases重点单词和短语]Refine/rɪˈfaɪn/v.精炼，提纯Oxidation/ˌɑːksɪˈdeɪʃn/n.[化学]氧化Occlusive/əˈklusɪv/adj.闭塞的03PART3[SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOil霍霍巴籽油]SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOilandSimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedWax,alsocalledJojobaOilandJojobaWax,arenaturalingredientsderivedfromtheseedsofthedesertshrub,Simmondsiachinensis.霍霍巴籽油和霍霍巴籽蜡，又称霍霍巴油和霍霍巴蜡，都是从沙漠灌木霍霍巴的种子中提取的天然成分。OtheringredientsmadefromJojobaOilincludeSimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)Butter,HydrogenatedJojobaOil,JojobaEsters,HydrolyzedJojobaEsters,IsomerizedJojobaOilandJojobaAlcohol.其他从霍霍巴油中提取的成分包括霍霍巴脂、氢化霍霍巴油、霍霍巴酯、水解霍霍巴酯、异构化霍霍巴油和霍霍巴醇。SyntheticJojobaOilismixtureofwaxestersoffattyacidsandalcoholsthatisindistinguishablefromnaturaljojobaoilwithregardtochemicalcompositionandphysicalcharacteristics.合成霍霍巴油是脂肪酸和醇的蜡酯混合物，与天然的霍霍巴油在化学成分和物理特性上没有区别。03PART3[SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOil霍霍巴籽油]Amongtheingredientsmadefromjojoba,SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOilismostfrequentlyusedincosmeticsandpersonalcareproducts.在源自霍霍巴的原料中，最常用于化妆品和个人护理产品的是霍霍巴籽霍霍巴籽。ProductcategoriesinwhichSimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)Oilmaybefoundincludebathproducts,eyemakeup,haircarepro