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AAppliqué:Surfacepatternmadebycuttingoutfabricorlacedesignsandattachingthemtoanotherfabricorlacebymeansofembroideryorstitching.Armhole:夹圈,袖笼Sectionofagarmentthroughwhichanarmpassesorintowhichasleeveissewn.ArmholeDrop:DistancefromHighPointShoulderorLowPointShouldermeasuredtoimaginarylineatbaseofarmholethatisata90-degreeanglefromCForCB.ArmholePoint:Thepointonapatternwherearmholeandsideseamintersect.
Armscye:SeedefinitionforArmhole.
BBackstitch:返针,回针SeedefinitionforBacktack.Backtack:Stitchesusedtosecurethethreadsatthebeginningand/orendingofarowofstitching.BaggedLining:Liningthatisstitchedsecurelytoshellathems.Balance:Garmentappearssymmetricalonthebody.Hangingequaldistancesfromthebodyrighttoleft,andfronttoback.
BalancedPlaid/StripePlacement:Referstothesymmetricalappearanceoftheplaidonthebody.Thestripe/plaidmuststartatthesamepointonbothsidesofthegarment.
BananaStand:SeedefinitionforHalfMoonStand.BandNeckline,Circular:Fordefinitionseeset-circular.
BandNeckline,Flat:Fordefinitionseeset-flat
BarrelButton:SeedefinitionforToggleButton.Bartack套结:Aseriesofshortstitchessewn缝closetogetherandusedtoreinforceareasofstrainorstress.Canbezigzag[ziɡzæɡ]锯齿形的线条orstraightstitching.
BastingStitch:Temporarilyholdstogethertwolayersoffabric.Bellow:Amethodofaddingfullnesstoanareaofagarment,usuallyapocket.Oftenstitchedaroundedgestoholdshape.Bellying:SeeCocklingBeltloop:Narrowstripoffabricorthreadchainatthewaistlinetokeepabeltinposition.BesomPocket:SeedefinitionforWeltPocket.BiasCut:Cuttingdiagonallyacrossthegrainofthefabricata45degreeangletotheselvedge,resultinginagarmentthatclingsandfollowsbodycurvesclosely.
BindOff(Sweater):SeedefinitionforCastOff.Binding:Anarrowstripoffabricusedtocoverseamsorrawedgestogiveacleanfinishededgeandisvisibleonbothsidesofthefabric.Canbesingle-turned,double-turnedorcombination.
BlanketStitch(502)BlendedYarns:Yarnscomposedoftwoormoredifferentfibersmixedtogetherandthenspuntoformoneyarn.Blindstitch:ForDefinitionseeHemand103
Blistering:SeedefinitionforBubbling.Block:SeedefinitionforSloper.Blocking:Theshapingofasweaterintoitsfinishedform.Steamandpressureareappliedtomaketheblockedshapehold.BodyFabric:Outerlayeroffabricinagarment.BondStrength:Thenumericalmeasurementofforcerequiredtoseparatetheinterliningfromthepiecegoods.ThemeasurementofgramforceisrecordedinNewton(N=102gf)orOunce(oz=28.35gf).Bonding:Processofjoining2fabricsintoonebybackingwithadhesiveorfoam.Boning:Firmflexiblestrip,likenylon,concealedincasingtoholdshapeorpreventstretching.BootcutSilhouette:BoundButtonhole:Fordefinitionseebuttonhole
BoundNeckline,Circular:Fordefinitionseeset-circular.
BoundNeckline,Flat:Fordefinitionseeset-flat
BoundSeam:Methodoffinishingaseambybindingseamallowance.
Bow,Bowing:Afabricflawinwhichthecrosswiseyarnsarcacrossthewidthofthefabric.
BoxPleat:Pleatformedbyfoldingmaterialalternatelyinoppositedirections.
BoxPleatInvertedBoxPleatBraidedElastic:SeedefinitionforElasticBraidedBubbling:Theseparationatdifferentpointsbetweentheinterliningandthepiecegoods.Buckle:Afasteningdevice,inavarietyofsizesandshapes,consistingofanopenrimhavingasingleorcenterbar,withorwithoutaprong.
BustDart:
SeedefinitionforDart.BustedSeam:SeedefinitionforPressedOpenSeam.Button:Decorativeorfunctionalcomponentusedtoholdtwosidesofagarmenttogether.Canbemadeoutofmanymaterialsandcaneitherhaveholespunchedinthecenterforstitchingorashankontheback.Buttonsaremadetoslipthroughabuttonholeorfabricloop.ButtonandLoopCross-StitchAttached:SeedefinitionforButton.
ButtonParallelStitchAttached:SeedefinitionforButton.
Buttonhole:Openingforabuttontopassthroughandsecureagarmentopening.Canbebound,stitched/worked,ormadefromaloopofthread,cordorbiastubing.ButtonSleevePlacket:SeedefinitionforPlacket.
ButtonStabilizer:Aplainflatbuttonusuallymadeofclearplasticplacedinsideagarmentbehindthetopoutsidebutton.Canbeusedanywheretherearebuttonsforclosure.CCapSnap:SeedefinitionforSnap.
CargoPocket:Astylizedpatchpocket,oftenwithbellows,withflapclosureatthetop.Casing:Foldoffabricstitcheddowntoformanopeningthroughwhichelasticoracordisdrawn.CastOff(Sweater):Methodsofremovingopenstitchesfromtheneedlesmustbefinishedwithabindoff(likeribnecktrim)topreventunravelingofthefinishededge.Canalsobedecorativestitcheswithinapanel.CastOn(Sweater):SeedefinitionofSweaterStart.CenteredOverSeamStitch:Topstitchoneachsideoftheseam,equaldistancefromtheseam.Canbeproducedbytwosingleneedlesor1doubleneedle.ChainTack:SeedefinitionforSwingTack.
ChiselPocket:SeedefinitionforRulerPocket.CircularFinish:SeedefinitionforSetCircularCircularKnit:SeedefinitionforTubularKnit.CleanFinish:Indicatesthatrawedgesoffabricarefinishedinawaythatstopsfabricfromfrayingandhidesrawedges.Clicking:SeedefinitionforDieCutting.Closure:Componentsthatworktogethertohold2sidesofagarmenttogether.Cockling:CocklingandBellyingmeanthesamething.Ifelastichasawavyappearancealongitslength,thisiscalledcocklingorbellying.Theprimarycauseiswhentheindividualendsofspandex(rubber)relaxorcontractmorethanthemajorityinthesamelengthoftheelasticcausingwavinessalongthetopedge.CoinPocket:Smalldecorativepocketusuallyfoundonbottomgarments,usuallylocatedinsidesidepocket.Canbeapatchpocketoron-seampocketconstruction.
Collar:
NoBandCollarWithBandCollarCollarStay:Narrowstripofplasticormetalinsertedinpointofcollarfromtheundersideorissewntointerliningbetweenlayersofcollarfabricaddedtogarmenttoensureacrispunwrinkledlook.
Collarband:SeedefinitionforCollarstandCollarstand:Separateshapedpieceoffabricthatisthefulllengthofgarmentnecklineandisinsertedbetweengarmentnecklineandcollar.Usedtohelpshapeandfitcollartobodyandalsocanbeusedtocloseneckline.
ColorFast:Atermusedtodeterminewhetheracolor‘bleeds’duringlaundering.Thisisnormallymeasuredbyagradingsystem1–5.ConcealedZipper:Zipperissetalongfoldededgesofseamlinewithzipperteethnotvisible.Somespecificconstructionmethodsarecenterlappedorkissing,sidelapped,andinvisible.Construction:Processesinordertoconstructagarment,consistsofstitchingand/orfusinggarmentpiecestogether.ContinuousSleevePlacket:SeedefinitionforPlacket.
ContouredWaistband:SeedefinitionforWaistband.
Cording:SeedefinitionforPiping.
Cordlock:Alockingdevicethatistypicallyspringactivatedandmayhave1or2holes.Usedtoadjustdrawcords,etc.
CoreThread:Threadformedbyspinningacotton,rayon,orpolyesterfiberaroundacontinuousfilamentbundleoffibersgivingthethreadtheadvantagesofaspunandFilamentconstruction.Course:Acrosswiseorhorizontalrowofloopsinknittedfabric.
CoveredButton:SeedefinitionforButton.
Crack-stitched:SeedefinitionforStitch-in-the-Ditch.CrescentStand:SeedefinitionforHalfMoonStand.Crocking:Thetransferofdyestufffromonefabrictoanotherbyfriction.Thisproblemisusuallyworsewithdarkershades.Redsareoftenaprobleminthisrespect.Thisisadyeingproblemandcanbedealtwithinthedyehouse.CrossGrainCut:Thecuttingofapatternpieceperpendiculartotheselvedgeofthefabric
Crotch:
CrotchCurve:Thebottomofarisecurve.
CrotchDepth:Thestraightdistancefromcrotchtotopofwaistbandinpants,shorts,etc.
CrotchPoint:Thepointonthepatternwherethefrontorbackriseintersectswiththeinseam.CurtainWaistband:Amethodoffinishingthewaistofagarmentthatisaseparatesewnonfacingthathangsbelowlowerseamofwaistbandmadeoffabricotherthanshellthatisinterfaced/interlinedorturned.CutandSew(Sweater):Sweaterpanelsareknittothebodylengthofthelargestsize,theshapeoftheneckline,shouldersandarmholesarecutout,smallersizesarecutdown.
CutOnPlacket:SeedefinitionforPlacket.
Cutting:Formationofgarmentpiecesfromlayers(plies)offabricbymeansofadie,laserorknife.Typicallydoneonalongtable.DDart:Asewnwedgeordiamondshapedtuck/seamusedtomakeagarmentconformtothecurvesofthebody.Delamination:Aseparationinthebondbetweenthefusibleinterliningandthepiecegoods.Thiscanbetotalseparation(totaldelamination)orpartialseparation(localizeddelaminiation).Denier:Weightmeasurementofyarns.Lownumbersrepresentthefinersizesandthehighernumbersrepresentthecoarser/heaviersizes.
AlsoseedefinitionforElasticDenierDieCutting:Sharpmetaloutlinesintheshapeofpatternpiecesusedtocutpliesoffabricinconjunctionwitheitheraclickpressordiecuttingpress.Typicallyusedforsmallerpatternpieces.DifferentialShrinkage:Occurswhenthepiecegoodsandtheinterliningarenotmovinginsyncandwillcausedistortioninthesurfaceappearanceofthegarmentpart.DoghouseStitch:SeedefinitionforTriangleReinforceStitch.DoubleNeedleCenteredOverSeam:SeedefinitionforCenteredOverSeamStitch.DoubleTurnHem:SeedefinitionforHem.
DoubleYoke/StylizedYoke:SeedefinitionforYoke.
Drape:SeedefinitionforHang.Drawcord:SeedefinitionforDrawstring.Drawstring:Anarrowstring,ribbon,cord,ortubeoffabricinsertedintoacasingandpulleduportiedtocreateshapeand/orholdthegarmenttothebody.
DressForm:SeedefinitionforMannequin.D-Ring:“D”shapedpieceofhardwareoftenusedtocreateanadjustableclosureheldtogetherbyaloopedandstitchedendofabelt.
EEase:Themethodofsewingtogether2componentsofvaryingseamlengthsevenlydistributingfullnesssoasnottocausegathersorpuckers.SeedefinitionsforTight,ModerateandGenerous.EaseOverBody:Theamountofroomabovebodymeasurementsneededinagarmenttoallowadequatemovementwhenworn.EighthTopPocket:SeedefinitionforSlantPocket.
ElasticBraided:Anarrowelasticband,oftenusedastrimmingsandbindings.Formedbyplatingseveralstrandsofyardsandbareelastomers.Braidedelasticusuallybecomesnarrowedwhenelongated.Madeonacircularbraidingmachine.ElasticDenier:Thesizeorthicknessoftheyarn.Alsothicknessofspandex(Thelowerthenumbertheweakerthespandex)ElasticElastomers:NaturalRubberThreadElasticElongation:Stretch–measure5”relaxedandpulltomaximum;measurementresultgivenina%.ElasticEndsofRubber:Thenumberofstrandsofrubberusedtomanufactureaparticularsizeorqualityofelastic.ElasticGauge:Thicknessofrubber(Thelowerthenumberthestrongertherubber)ElasticKnitted:Fabricconstructionforinterlockingseriesoflooperofoneormoreyarns.Materialsnormallyusedaretexturedpolyesteryarnsortexturednylonandbarespandexorextrudedrubber.Madeonaflatbedcrochetmachine.ElasticModulus:Power(resistancetostretch),strengthortensionoftheelastic.Theforcerequiredtopulltheelastictoaspecificstretch/length,determinestheamountofpressuretheelasticisputtingonthewearer’sbody.ElasticNonRoll:Elasticthathasenoughwidthwisestabilitysoitdoesnotbend,rollorcrushacrossitswidthwhenworn.Madewithmonofilamentthread.ElasticRecovery:Abilityofelastictoretainitsoriginallengthimmediatelyafterstretchingandreleasing.Afterstretchingtheelastictoitsmaximumcapability.Theelasticmustreturnto90%to92%ofitsoriginallength.ElasticWaistband:SeedefinitionforWaistband
ElasticWoven:Primarilymadeupofwarpyarns,fillyarnsandcoveredspandexorcoveredextrudedrubber.Generallythickeranddenserduetothebulkinessofthecoveredelastomersandstitchformations.Madeonashuttleloom.Elastomeric:Anendofspandexwhichhasbeencoveredortwistedwithyarn.Embroidery:Fancyneedleworkortrimmingusingcoloredyarn,floss,cotton,silkormetallicthreads.EnclosedSeam:SeedefinitionforFrenchSeams.EndsofRubber:Thenumberofstrandsofrubberusedtomanufactureaparticularsizeorqualityofelastic.Execution:SeedefinitionforConstruction.ExposedSeam:Seamsinwhichtheseamallowancesarevisibleontheoutsideofthegarment.
ExposedZipper:Zipperissetalongfoldededgesofseamlinewithzipperteethvisible.
ExpressionofFit:Designer’svisionofhowthegarmentshouldfitonthehumanform.
Thekeyelementsoffitthatarerelatedtothestylingofthegarmentinclude,butarenotlimitedto,wherethegarmentsitsonthewaistofthebodyandhowtightfittingagarmentis.Itispossibleforagarmenttoachieveanexcellentfit,butstillnothaveachievedthedesigner’svisionforfit.
ExtendedTabWaistband:SeedefinitionforWaistband.
Eyelet:Smallcircularplasticormetaltubesecuredtofabrictoformanopening.Canalsobeformedbyaroundembroideredopening.Canbedecorativeorusedwithcord.
FFabric:Clothmadeoftextileyarnsorfibersbyweaving,knitting,lacemaking,braiding,netting,orfelting.Canalsobemadebybondingornon-wovenmethods.
FabricHandFeel:SeedefinitionforHand.Face:Surfaceoffabricdesignatedintheweaving/knittingprocesstobeusedastheoutsideofafinishedgarment.Facing:Pieceoffabricusedtofinisharawedge.Facingsareturnedtotheinsideofagarmentenclosingseams.
Faggoting:Open-workembroiderydonebydrawingouthorizontalthreadsoffabric,thentyingtheverticalthreadsingroupstoproduceopenspaces,OR,decorativestitchingthatholdstogethertwocloselyspacedfoldededgesoffabricwithornamentalstitches.
FashioningMarks(Sweater):Raised“twists”thatresultsfromtransferringloopstoadjacentneedlestodecreasethewidthoftheknittedpanel,usuallyoccursinaseriesatnecklineandarmhole.
FelledSeam:Processthatconcealsseamallowancebetweenpliesastheyarefoldedtogetherandtopstitchedthroughalllayers.
FemaleClosure:Fiber:Basicfilamentorstrandfromwhichyarnsaremade.Fibersareeithershortwithnaturalmaterialsorman-madematerialswhicharemadeinlongcontinuousfilaments.Filament:Afiberofindefiniteorextremelengthasfoundinsilkorsyntheticfibers.Fill:Crosswiseorhorizontalyarnofawovenfabricthatrunsatrightanglestothewarpyarnsorselvage.
Findings:Allthesmalleritemsandtrimmingsthatcompleteagarment.Maybedecorativematerialthatadornsthegarment.FineGauge(Sweater):Asmallknittedstitchusually12to24gauge.Finishing:Allthefinalstagesofpreparingagarmentforpointofsale.Includes,butnotlimitedto,washing,pressing,threadclipping,inspection,ticketing,etc.FishtailButtonhole:ForDefinitionseebuttonhole.
Fit:Howwellagarmentconformstothe3-dimensionalhumanbody.FitModel:Individualwhorepresentsthefiguretypeoftheintendedguestusedtoevaluatethefitofgarments.FittingEase:SeedefinitionforEaseOverBody.FlapPocket:FlareLegSilhouette:
FlatFelledSeam:SeedefinitionforFelledSeam.FlatFinish:SeedefinitionforSetFlat.FlatKnit:Fabricknittedflatandhasselvages.FlatKnitCollar:FloatingTack:SeedefinitionforSwingTack.Fraying:Frayingistheunravelingofyarnineitherthefillorwarpdirection.FreeHangingLining:Liningnotattachedatgarmenthem.FrenchDart:SeedefinitionforDart.
FrenchFlyFacing:Aseparatesewnonfabrictaborextensionusedtocoverzipperteeth.Itextendsfrombottomofzippertowaistbandandbuttonstoinsideofpantsnearwaist.
FrenchSeams:Processwhererawedgesofaseamareenclosedbetweengarmentpliesastheyareturnedoverandstitched,formingacleanfinish.
FrenchTack:SeedefinitionforSwingTack.Frog:Ornamentalbraidedtwopiecegarmentclosureformingbuttonandloop
FullFashioned/KnittoShape(Sweater):Sweaterpanelisknittoshapebyincreasinganddecreasingthenumberofneedlesusedduringtheknittingaction.Nocuttingisrequiredtoobtainthedesiredpanelshape.
FullNeedleRib(Sweater):Doublebedconstructcommonlyusedatstartorplacket;lookslike1X1rib,butismorecompact.Canbeeitherlink/loopattached(seelinking/LoopingDefinition)orcontinuousknitattach.
FullPlacket:SeedefinitionforPlacket.
Fusible:Fabriccontainingheatsensitiveadhesiveforapplicationusingheatandpressure.Commonlyseenoninterfacingordecorativetrims.GGathering:SeedefinitionforShirring.GaugeElastic:SeedefinitionforElasti
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