新材料在当代首饰中的运用newmaterialapplicationincontemporaryjewellery

NewMaterialApplicationinContemporaryJewelleryInmycurrentseriesofwork,Iamstronglyinterestedanddrivenbycontrasts.

WithamovefromEuropetoChinain2007,itmightbeobviousthattheingredientsofmyworkderivefromthenewinfluencesthatnowsurroundme.Thedifferencesthatcanbefoundintheculturalbackgrounds,thediversityofpeopleandthenewwayoflivingnourishmythinking.

Thecontrastsoftraditional&modern,old&new,male&female,growth&decay,fake&void,intriguemeandaremirroredinmypiecesthatfindtheircentrepointintheimageryoftheflower-selling-ladiesofShanghai'sstreets.YesterdayIsaDifferentDayLisaJuen(Germany)Materials:Steel,FakeNails,NailVarnish,enamel,GoldLeaf,SilverLeaf,CubicZirkonia,Glass,Polyester,Cotton,Rust,freshwaterpearls,LED,LEDscreen,fabric,Cable,LightSwitch,plastic,elasticband,stainlesssteel材料：钢、假指甲、指甲油、珐琅、金箔、镐石、玻璃、聚酯、棉、铁锈、淡水珍珠、LED灯、LED屏、布料、电线、灯开关、塑料、松紧带、不锈钢DOUBLEFAKE,BroochSEXYGOLDFISHPINKTRADITION,BroochThefemalenotionthataccompaniesthebeingofaflower,itspower,bloom,playfulnessandseductiveness,evenuptothesuspicionof/andbeingfakeinspiresmymaking,beingopposedtonaturalprocesses,timeanddecay.MoneymoneyNecklaceEarrings

$265

Newsprint,Perspex,mixedmedia,silver报纸，有机玻璃，综合材料，银

Brooch

$450

Newsprint,paint,mixedmedia,silver报纸，有机玻璃，综合材料，银

KvetoslavaFloraSekanova“Thisgroupofwork,‘Familiarity’,isaboutnoticingsurfacetextures,andgoingonajourneywiththematerials.Whatdoesthematerialallowmetodo?HowmanysecretswillIgettodiscover?WhatpresumedaestheticrulesdoIallowmyselftobreak?”

←Brooch,newsprint,mixedmedia,silver

$530↓Brooch,newsprint,mixedmedia,silver

$445“Forme,jewellerydoesnotstandcompletelyseparatedfromothercreativeforms,orfromeverydaylife.IlikeMargaretWest’sapproachofplacingjewelleryalongsideeverydayphenomenafindingpoeticlinks.Itengageslogicyetalsoisbornfromintuition."→Brooch,newsprint,mixedmedia,silver

$445↓Brooch,newsprint,mixedmedia,silver

$445Chihuahua吉娃娃

W71mmxH108mm,

$450

RecycledFormica,hessian,cork,Formica,18ct,9ctplateddrawingpin,9ct,stg,brassscrewsandstainlesssteelwire.再生胶木，粗麻绳，软木塞，胶木，18克拉镀9克拉图钉，黄铜螺丝和不锈钢丝AnnaWhitleyHamster仓鼠

W92mmxH53mm,

$450

RecycledFormica,cork,Formica,18ctplateddrawingpins,9ct,stg,brassscrews&stainlesssteelwire.再生胶木、软木塞、胶木，18k镀金图钉，黄铜螺丝和不锈钢丝Goldfish金鱼

W135mmxH120mm,

$450

Formica,cork,recycledFormica,18ctplateddrawingpins,18ctstaple,9ct,brassscrews&stainlesssteelwire.胶木、软木塞、再生胶木、18k镀金图钉、18k镀金订书钉，黄铜螺丝和不锈钢丝Poodle狮子狗

W90mmxH109mm,

$450

RecycledFormica,hessian,cork,Formica,9ct&18ctplateddrawingpins,9ct,stg,brassscrews,stainlesssteelwire.再生胶木，粗麻布，软木塞，胶木，9k和18k镀金图钉，黄铜螺丝和不锈钢丝Cat,

W90mmxH110mm,

$450

Formica,hessian,cork,stgand18ctstaples,9ct,stg,brassscrews&stainlesssteelwire.再生胶木，粗麻布，软木塞，18k镀金图钉，黄铜螺丝和不锈钢丝Rabbit,

W85mmxH127mm,

$450

Formica,hessian,cork,veneer,9ctplateddrawingpin,18ctstaple,9ct,stg,brassscrews&stainlesssteelwire.再生胶木，粗麻布，软木塞，胶木，9k镀金图钉，18k订书钉，黄铜螺丝和不锈钢丝SausageDog腊肠

W163mmxH82mm,

$450

Whiteboard,Formica,veneer,pearls,magnets,9ct,stg,brassscrews&stainlesssteelwire.白纸板，胶木，薄片镶饰，珍珠，吸铁石，黄铜螺丝和不锈钢丝Budgie,

W63mmxH156mm,

$450

Whiteboard,Formica,9ct,stg,brassscrews&stainlesssteelwire.白纸板，胶木，黄铜螺丝，不锈钢丝broochesSterlingsilver,paint925银，颜料

RuiKikuchi(Japen-Austrlia)Rui,recentlyreturnedtoherbirthcountryafterbeingbroughtupandeducatedinSydney.Thisnewbodyofplayfulandexperimentalpiecescouldbeseentoresemblemarinelife,reflectingandrecognisingthesimplebeautyoftheworldaroundusisinresponsetoherobservationsofconsumptioninJapanesesociety.Inmanipulatinganabundantmaterialinthehumanworld,suchasthePET(polyethyleneteraphthalate)bottle,heraimistoconsiderthemundaneobjectandrecognisebeautywithinit.Inextendingourhumilitytoseeavalueinthesematerials,itisherhopethatwereducethenonchalantuseofgoodsandthatcanleadustoexperiencewonderintheeveryday.Necklace

$600

rubber,textiles,foundobjects硅胶，纺织品，现成品Brooche$330

Retrofabricfromtheeighties,foundobjects,silver,powdercoatedcopper80年代布料，现成品，银，镀铜

NadeneCarr"InmyworkIaminterestedintwoformsofadornment,garmentandjewellery.Mycuriosityliesinthecrossoverofthetwoandhowclosetheycometoeachother,andwhathappensintheexchange.Themetalgivesasenseoftraditionaljewellery.UsingitasframeworkfortheunderlyingstructureinwhichIpushthroughfabricembeddedwithobjectstoaddasculpturaldimension.Fabricembodiesapieceofhistory,oftenafavoritegarmenthasmemoriesaddinganotherlayer.

Byrecyclingitintoanotherformofsimplebeautyanddetailallowsaconnectionphysicallyandemotionallytothewearer."

NadeneCarr,2010AllBrooches

$330each

Retrofabricfromtheeighties,foundobjects,silver,powdercoatedcopper

Brooch:AConstantGrinding2012

Galiamelonseeds,titanium,aluminiumsteel,silver加利亚瓜子，钛，铝钢，银KarinRoyAnderson(Sweden)Brooch:AConstantGrinding

Appleseeds,titanium,steel,silver

Iamalongdistancerunner.Theurgeforrepeatingmovementsoverandoveragain,methodicallyandresolutelyissomethingthatissignificantforbothmypersonalityandmywork.Runningkilometreafterkilometreorsawingupanddownhourafterhour.

Necklace:AConstantGrinding2012

Galiamelonseeds,textile,brass加利亚瓜子，纺织品，黄铜Multiplicityandrecurrenceattractme.Inalargescalethevariationsbetweenthedetailsareveryimportant.Icreatestructuresandrhythmsusingsmallelementstobuilddynamicpatterns.Myaimisthattheresultinasmallscaleshouldexpressharmonyandbalance.Bracelet:CatchingBigFish2013

Recycledplastic,silver,textile再生塑料，银，纺织品Earrings:CatchingBigFish2013

Recycledplastic,silver,textile

TheEnd

brooch

glassbeads,plastic,silver,leather玻璃珠，塑料，银，皮革

12x11x4cmFeliekevanderleest(Norway)AnimalshaveaspecialplaceinFeliekevanderLeest'sheart.Sheprovidesmanyanimalswithabusysociallifeasornaments,givesaselectgroupanicehomeinmuseumsandsheplacedafewoversizedspecimensinthecenterofeveryone'sattentioninmeetingroomsandstairwells.Jewellery,objectorlightfixture,thescaleorfunctionisnottheaspectthatinspiresVanderLeest:thetellingofunusualstoriesisalwayshermainmotivation.

VanderLeesthasenrichedjewellerydesignwiththeintroductionoftextiletechniques.Combiningthiswithgold,silverandplastic,intenyearstimeshedevelopedherownidiom.Forsomeonewhonormallyworkswithhandsizedpiecesitisremarkabletodevelopmonumentalinstallations.Acontinuousflowofherworknowfindsitswaytonumerousexhibitions.Inaddition,itishappilycollectedbyindividualsandmuseumsthroughthegalleriesthatrepresentherinAmsterdam,NewYorkandTokyo.Agreatmilestonewasthe2006exhibitionJewelleryFables:themuseuminMiddlesbrough(mima)exhibitedanoverviewofallherworkandalsopublishedanaccompanyingcatalog.

Apartfromtheobviousfunherworksometimesshowesanunexpectedseriousside.Contemporaryissuessuchastheenvironment,dealingwithanimalsandallkindsofsocialproblemsaretouchedupon.InthiswayVanderLeest,likeJeandeLaFontaineinhisfamousfables,showsustheothersideofthecoin.Buthermostimportantqualitycontinuestobeherunstoppableenthusiasmformakingnewpiecesandthejoytheygiveus,thespectators.

2012

PrairiePioneer大草原先锋

bracelet

glassbeads,textile,silver,gold,plastic,leather

15x10x10cm2012

Don&BobDigger挖掘者

earclips

gold,plastic

3x3x2cmeach2012

Anti-WarWarrior反战武士

brooch

textile,glassbeads,gold,topaz,onyx,silver纺织品，玻璃珠，金，托帕石，缟玛瑙，银

8.5x9x4cm2003

CamouflageDeerwithTargetTrousers穿靶子裤的伪装中的鹿

object/necklace

plastic,textile,gold,coral,shellpearls

object12x12x6cm2003

StripeyAnimals条文动物

bracelets

textile,silver

10x12.5x4.5cm2002

GiraffewiththeZebraLegs有着斑马腿的长颈鹿

necklace

plastic,textile,silver,glassbeads

giraffe22x8x3cm2002

PartyGoldfishinPool游泳池中的派对金鱼

objectwithring

plastic,textile,gold

ring5x2.5x5cm2000

CarryFish'Jessica'

wearableobject

rubber,textile,dollssleepyeyes

38x18x13cmReposeCollection.Necklace,2002

feathers,thread

12x10x3"

Ienjoyintroducingvariousmaterialsintomyworkbecauseoftheirtactilequalitiesandassociativeimplications.Thereconfigurationofpreexistingobjectsproposesamoreintimateandpoeticdialogue,withopeninterpretations.Everyobservermaycontemplatemeaningsmoreintuitivelybyrecollectionoftheirownknowledgeorexperience.julieAmatheisReposeCollection.Bracelet,2003

feathersthread

4x4x13/4"

Inthe"ReposeCollection"Ihaveindulgentlyalteredtherealqualitiesandsymbolicroleofthisancientmaterial.Thesesemiplumesbecomeaseriesofunnatural,colorless,andfrailrings.Inasubtlewaythesesilencedfeathersproposequestionsregardingcontemporaryrituals,andprovideevidenceofthevulnerableandimpaireddualityinwhichmanandnaturecoexist.silicone-rubber

•pigments

•threadØ40cmElaBauer(Netherlands)ring‘02

•silver银

•latex胶乳

•thread线Ø