【德清饮馔年俗】年俗

1、【德清饮馔年俗】年俗年年有余晒鱼干. Dried fish is a must for Spring Festival. 过大年,天下华人同享此古老民俗.在浙北地区德清民间还流传着 各种生动有趣的年俗,皆以祥瑞纳福为祈愿,寄托民众心中一份淳朴 而美好的情愫.千年鱼汤饭,分享太平江南清嘉地,悠然下渚湖.每年腊月上旬,德清下渚湖当地有祭拜鱼神的传统习俗, 仪式隆 重而庄严,村民虔诚祈求来年风调雨顺,太平安康.祭品有猪头三牲、 糖果、花生、茶点和黄酒等.地点位于下渚湖畔龙山寺鱼神庙.村民 们站成一排,碗里斟满黄酒,一起端起酒碗,一同转身,祭拜天地、 龙王、五圣菩萨.每祭一杯酒,渔民们都会说着 风调雨

2、顺渔业丰收 等吉利话,保佑百姓太太平平、年年有余,此俗已延续千年.大红灯笼高高挂,桌子板凳排排好,千斤酒水备齐了,大锅灶里鱼香飘.朋友来了有好酒,一锅热腾腾、脍炙人口的人间美食一一下渚湖 千年鱼汤饭香飘四方.整洁摆设300多张八仙桌子,当天有 3000 余人共享鱼汤饭.宴席上了六道农家菜：下渚湖鱼汤、下渚湖又一春、 萝卜赛人参、菱菜炒腊肉、鲤鱼跳龙门、团团圆圆.品尝年猪饭,兴旺安康在德清西部山区,宰杀年猪是农家年终极为重要的一件大事, 颇 为讲究,有不少规矩：比方杀年猪要选一个良辰吉日；年猪的叫声越 亮脆越预示大吉大利；杀年猪时要干净利落一刀结果,寓意农家来年 事事顺利；年猪血喷涌越多越鲜红,

3、就预示农家兴旺兴旺等等.这是山里人家对农事家业顺顺利利的美好祈愿.大约一个时辰过后,大家在农家宽敞的中堂屋里分席落座,一盘盘色泽滋润、香气扑鼻的佳肴端上桌面,有红烧回锅肉、大蒜炒猪肝、 红闷蹄？、黄豆煮猪尾、萝卜子排煲汤、韭芽炒肉丝、笋干烧肉、猪 血羹等菜肴.主人还捧出红？米酒坛子,给客人们斟满杯.大家喝着 醇香的美酒,吃着香喷喷的年猪菜.席间,亲朋好友左邻右舍共举怀, 祝贺主人家今年五谷丰收、来年兴旺安康.羊肉加黄酒,快活赛 神仙德清新市镇周边农村家家户户饲养小湖羊, 有喜食羊肉习俗.张 一品百年老店应运而生,以烹饪味道鲜美独特的招牌名菜 酱羊肉而 蜚声江南,被收入?中国名菜谱?.羊肉加黄酒

4、、快活赛 神仙的日子, 被新市百姓演绎为一种闲情逸致的风俗.早在清同治九年1869,宁波客商张和松第一次踏上新市水镇 码头,遂与人合伙在小镇北街开设张裕泰饭店.临河街市品尝酱羊肉.Enjoy pickled mutton at a riverside street当年,新市有条羊行街,湖羊买卖生意始于明代,至晚清,羊行 店铺达八九家,新市人历来喜食羊肉.张和松精心研究羊肉烹饪之法, 其出售的羊肉色泽红润、肥而不腻、鲜嫩香酥,深受顾客青睐.1900年,张老板取 工品当朝之意将张裕泰更名为 张一品.后来,其子 张永源继承父业,以重金聘请名厨张宝三,精选湖羊,精研烹调技艺 使羊肉味道更醇美,声誉益隆

5、.张一品羊肉历来以选料考究、佐料精 美著称,所购湖羊要求健壮的嫩口二牙,佐料用精白冰糖、陈年老姜、 隔年晒油、正宗红曲、山东大红枣及胡椒、茴香、桂皮等,烹饪秘方 从不外传.上世纪30年代初,张永源在上海、临平、塘栖、武康等地开设 张一品羊肉分店,具酱羊饺还用小竹篮包装,贴红色仙鹿商标,精美而古朴,进入沪宁杭及京津地区.后来,张一品又改用铁罐包装, 新市羊肉先后进入港澳东南亚市场, 一时新市张一品名声大噪,食客 们纷至沓来.为了赶吃头汤正宗羊饺面,天未明,就手提灯笼火把赶 到北街排队,等待张一品开锅.品尝羊肉还有早市晚市之分.如今入 冬,新市地区经营羊肉的大小店铺多达 50余家.在浙北大地,新市

6、 羊肉的销量首屈一指.徜徉在小镇街头巷尾,随处可见 幺碗羊饺面、 一壶黄酒的食客自得其乐.这份新市人特有小乐惠生活,成为年俗 中一道市井百态的鲜活画面.鱼丸饭圆,富贵喜乐鱼丸取材以鲜活白鱼、白鲤鱼加工而成为上品.我曾目睹一名手 艺高超的大厨师做鱼丸,从杀鱼刮鳞、刮鱼茸、打鱼羹到捏丸子下锅 完成捞起成品,鱼丸又白又嫩极富弹性,高抛三尺落地完整不碎半点, 足见其功夫深厚独特.饭圆,又名刺毛肉圆子,取五花猪肉剁碎加工成一枚枚肉丸,之 后再将肉丸投入盛白糯米的盘子里滚几圈, 均匀地裹上米粒儿,放进 蒸笼蒸熟.鱼丸与饭圆这两道佳肴在当地百姓年三十之夜的团圆饭桌上是不可或缺的.只见雪白如鸽蛋,沉浮于翠绿碧

7、青的菠菜汤水中,赏心悦目.鱼丸入口,滋味鲜美弹性十足, 滑嫩爽口,妙不可言.一盘饭圆香气扑鼻,糯米晶莹剔透地裹着肉丸, 轻轻咬上一口,大快朵颐.人们在大年三十的餐桌上品尝鱼丸饭园, 寓意富贵喜乐点心茶糕,祥瑞纳福德清其他年俗点心茶糕五花八门,在此列举一二.雪棉羊尾,先 在豆沙馅中放一粒生猪油,之后用双手搓成鹤鹑蛋大小的丸子, 并裹 上薄薄的网状猪油.用筷子夹着豆沙丸子,蘸满蛋包糊逐个下入油中, 炸成均匀浅黄色后捞出才散上白糖即成,入口令人难忘.水晶糕、茶糕 均为糯米粉粳米粉按比例掺和做成的糕点. 水晶糕为甜糕点,里头放 豆沙馅,上面撒一些红丝绿丝点缀,因制糕的桃木模板花纹图案迥异, 故蒸出来的

8、水晶糕别具一格,富有民俗韵味.新市茶糕为古镇名点,以历史悠久、选料考究、味道鲜美著称, 具有松香鲜三大特色,在杭嘉湖水乡平原颇有名气.其历史可上溯至 南宋,明正德H一年1517刊本?仙潭志?与清康熙年间辑本?仙潭 文献?均将茶糕列为新市物产,起码有400余年历史.为了方便客人 携带,清末民初又诞生了黄蓝茶糕,用毛竹片加工成扁形竹篮,篮底 垫磐叶,内装茶糕十块,上覆红纸以图吉利,凡买八至十六块茶糕者 皆有黄篮奉送,成为新市人馈赠亲友之佳品.德清城乡还有一古老的年俗,即正月年初一早上,家家户户男女 老少都要吃一碗甜甜的顺风圆子,寓意一年顺顺当当、平平安安.福水为丘陵山区,山里人家民风淳朴,邻里和睦

9、.过年家家户户 都要打年糕磨粉做圆子.其福水圆子远近闻名.正月食福水圆子寓意 圆圆满满、五福临门.本文图片由作者提供团团圆圆,德清甜点.Deqing is well known for its New Yearpastries.Chinese people all over the world celebrate Spring Festival, the most important festival on the Chinese lunar calendar, but the way people celebrate may vary from community to community.

10、 People in Deqing, a rural county in northern Zhejiang Province, dine and wine in various ways in celebration of the Chinese New Year. Some of the county ' s yeaend banquet traditions are very ancient. The following are the five traditional Spring Festival banquets in De-qing.Fish Soup DinnerIn

11、early twelfth lunar month every year, people living by Xiazhu Lake, Deqing gather together to hold a grand public ritual in honor of Fish God. The solemn ritual takes place in the lakeside Fish God Temple and sacrifices offered to the god include three pig heads, yellow rice wine, candies, peanuts a

12、nd snacks. At the ceremony, villagers stand in a row, offering wine to the fish god and praying forBy Zhou Jianghonggood catch in the coming year. After the ritual, the fish soup dinneris offered to the public. In 2022, more than three hundred banquet tables were set up and three thousands people sa

13、t down to the tradi-tional six-course banquet.Yearly Pork DinnerIn the mountains of western Deqing, pig slaughtering is an important rite to rural families by the end of the lunar year. Villagers pick a good day and the process of the killing is quite particular. The louder the pig screams, the grea

14、ter fortune and luck for the next year. Putting a fast end to the pig ' s life indicates success and-hiimess, and the red blood of the pig is considered a symbol of pros-perity. The pigslaughtering proceeds fast.About one hour after the slaughtering begins, the host family is ready to entertain

15、their relatives and friends with a big pork dinner made of the pig just killed. People enjoy the big meal and wish for a happy new year together.Pickled MuttonAs villages around Xinshi Town are known for raising good sheep, mutton is a must for celebration of Spring Festival around 刺毛肉圆子,传统几百年.This

16、meat ball has been a traditional Spring Festival food in Deqing for hundreds of years.年猪饭热气腾腾.Friends and relatives get ready for New Year Pork Dinner.Xinshi. Of all the mutton restaurants in Xinshi, Zhang Yipin Pickled Mutton enjoys a national fame. The mutton restaurant was founded in 1869 by a bu

17、sinessman Zhang Hesong from Ningbo, a port city ineastern Zhejiang. Zhang was so proud of the success of the mut-ton business that in 1900 he changed the restaurant 'name to Zhang Yipin Pickled Mutton. Yipin in Chinese refers to the top-ranking official position in a royal court. His son boosted

18、 the business. In the1930s, he set up restaurants in neighboring cities such as Shanghai and Linping and even sold the canned mutton to foreign countries. The recipe has been a trade secret. In the best days of the restaurant in Xinshi, customers came to the restaurant before dawn and waited in the

19、darkness in order to taste the mutton noodle. Nowadays, Xin-shi boasts more than 50 mutton restaurants.Fish Ball, MeatballFor many families in Deqing County, fish balls and meatballs are a must for the family reunion banquet on the eve of the Spring Festival. The fish balls are made by fresh silver

20、carps. They look white and taste tender. It is said that the best fish balls would not breakapart even if you throw them up a meter into the air and let them fall to the ground.The meatballs are wrapped with a layer of rice. After meatballs are made, they are rolled in the glutinous rice so that rice clings to the whole surface of the meatballs. The meatballs are steamed for about ten minutes. The delicious fish balls and meatballs are consid-ered symbols of wealth and honor in the upcoming new year.Tea SnacksTea snacks, a general name for a great variety of cakes and dum