梭织服装英文.docx

服装英语QA指引 2008-01-05 10:14 1 月5日 服装英语QA指引女装梳织 QA 指引 - SP0RTSWEAR GENERAL : 概括 11 Bulk fabric s/b submit to lab with care instruction and test under Nautica requirement. 大货布料应提供给测试室并通过试验以符合的要求2 Bulk garment s/b submit to Lab and test under Nautica requirement. 大货制成品应提供给测试室并通过试验以符合NAUTICA的要求3 PCC precision interlining m/b used in there are certain area is needed and those interlining is approved by our NYO. 在成衣上有个别地方需要PCC 朴布的，朴布应该是纽约客户所批准使用的类形4 Button with wording quotNauticaquot m/b set on top and bottom to fix one direction. 钮面上有quotNAUTICAquot字，字体一定要固定在钮的上顶和下方，不可以在左右两侧5 Cross stitching for fixing 4 holes button and with thread locked. 4 孔钮是交叉缝线和钮脚线一定要牢固锁结好6 2 holes button and leg button with 1 hole m/b have thread locked. 两孔钮和单脚单孔钮的钮脚线一定要牢固锁结好7 Shank snap rivet and etc. with quotJ-Classquot m/b set on top to fix one direction. 工字钮，喼钮，撞钉和 其他种类表面有quotJ-Classquot的标记，quotJ-Classquot的标记一定是朝向上的方向8 Suitable tension to attach shank snap eyelet gripper and rivet to keep top surface no damage and tight fixed. 工字钮，喼钮，鸡眼，五爪钮和撞钉 的模具要调较合适的松紧度以避免损坏钮的表面和牢固地扣合好9 Eyelet snap amp gripper for both male amp female m/b have plastic pvc ring supported at underneath and ring size s/b a bit smallerespecially on single layer amp thin fabric. 鸡眼，喼钮和五爪钮的公钮底和母钮底要配落塑胶指环，塑胶指环的尺码要比面钮略为细小一点在单层的布和薄身布料是必需要的10 To avoid clip mark all hanger clip insided m/b have soft rubber. 所有衣架的内夹中一定是软塑胶制造，以防止成衣留下夹痕11 For quotNautica Women Pants Skirt Short Bottomquot center front zipper fly opening s/b ladys style or appointed by buyer. quotNAUTICA 女庒裤，裙子和短裤的下身quot 前中开拉炼是女庒款式，或客人指定之款式12 To avoid soilage when during bulk production especially on light colour fabric. 在大货生产过程中要小心污渍问题，浅颜色布料要特别注意 CUTTING : 剪裁1 For quotNautica Women Denim Jean Bottomquot center front zipper fly opening s/b mens style or appointed by buyer. quotNAUTICA 女庒牛仔布料的下身quot 前中开拉炼是男庒款式，或客人指定之款式2 Two way cut m/b one way in one garment for all items. 所有双向裁剪方法的款式，同一件成衣内的布顺向应该是朝著同一个方向剪裁的3 Two way cut m/b one way in one garment in corduroy product. 灯芯绒布如果可以用双向裁剪方法的，需要同一件成衣内的布毛顺向必需是朝著同一个方向剪裁的4 Corduroy in one way cut the nap direction m/b appointed by buyer. 灯芯绒布如果有指定是单向裁剪的制造方法，布毛的顺向应该是由客户指定的为正确5 One way cut for velour nap direction m/b appointed by buyer. 丝绒布是指定单向裁剪制造的，布毛的顺向应该是由客户指定的为正确6 Bias cut m/b in 45 degree in marker drawing. 纵纹剪裁方法，排图要用准确的45度来排列纸板的7 Stripe and plaid pattern m/b match on center front center back side seams inseam center front waistband and center back waistband. pay attention on marker drawing. 条子和格子布的款式，前中，后中，两边侧骨，内长，前中裤头和后中裤头的条子和格子一定要相对称在排图的时候要特别注意8 Stripe and plaid pattern bias cut m/b match on center front center back side seams pay attention on marker drawing. 条子和格子布的款式如果是纵纹裁剪，前中，后中，两边侧骨的条子和格子一定要相对称在排图的时候要特别注意9 Stripe and plaid pattern collar and collar stand m/b even and match in center front edge.pay attention on marker drawing and sewing. 条子和格子布的款式，上级领子和下级领子要相等称，条子和格子在前中要相对称在排图和车缝的时候要特别注意10 Strip and plaid pattern on sleeve sleeve cuff and sleeve placket m/b in pair and in one direction match to body.pay attention on marker drawing. 条子和格子布的款式，袖子，袖级和袖侧要对配和相等对称的，并排列同大身同一顺向在排图的时候要特别注意11 Stripe and plaid pattern the row on middle of armhole m/b match to sleeve.pay attention on marker drawing and on sewing. 条子和格子布的款式，在夹圈居中的条子或格子要跟袖子配对在排图和车缝的时候要特别注意12 Stripe and plaid pattern patch pocket m/b fully match in horizontal amp vertical to body and pair of pocket m/b matching.pay attention on marker drawing and on sewing. 条子和格子布的款式，条子和格子贴代的横向和直向都要跟大身配对，和一对代要相等称的 在排图和车缝的时候要特别注意 SEWING : 车缝1 Use suitable size of thread to fit to different thickness of fabric or appointed by buyer. 用适当粗细度的车缝线去配合不同厚度的布料，或客户指定的线号2 At lease 13 SPI for thin fabric on top stitching. 薄布料的面线要一吋内最少要有13针3 3 threads overlock 5 threads overlock and single needle on under side seams m/b over 13 SPI for thin fabric. 薄布料底面的3线鈒骨，5线鈒骨和内骨单针车线要一吋内最少要有13针4 At lease10 SPI for medium thickness fabric on top stitching. 中厚度布料的面线要一吋内最少要有10针5 3 threads overlock 5 threads overlock and single needle on under side seams m/b over 11 SPI for medium weight fabric. 中厚度布料底面的3线鈒骨，5线鈒骨和内骨单针车线要一吋内最少要有11针6 At lease 8 SPI for denim amp thick fabric on top stitching. 厚布料的面线要一吋内最少要有8针7 3 threads overlock 5 threads overlock and single needle on under side seams m/b over 9 SPI for thick fabric. 厚布料底面的3线鈒骨，5线鈒骨和内骨单针开骨车线要一吋内最少要有9针8 All top stitching m/b in even SPI. 所有面线要均等一致的长度9 Front body panel especially on A - zone area is not accept overlap stitching. 成衣的前幅，由其在成衣的前中上部份A部位 不接受重迭驳线10 Necssary lap stitching standard s/b lapped align in 3/8quot to 1/2 length. 必要的接线，标准是接线位的长度应该是3/8吋至半吋和并排列在同一线条上11 Binding on garment front panel especially on center front top area A Zone is not accept have lap connection. 捆条不可有缝接驳位在成衣的前幅，由其在成衣的前中上部份A部位12 Puckering is not accepted on DNTS along seam 1/4quot or over 1/4quot SNTS along seam and 3 Thread Needle Top Stitches along seam. 双针间面线，1/4吋 或超过1/4吋 阔的单针间面线和3针间面线，不接受布面出现起皱纹13 Side seam m/b one way stitch down from top to bottom or from sleeve opening down to bottom edge. 车缝合侧骨要从顶上开始车缝合顺落至脚或从袖口车缝合顺落至脚14 To use new cone threads and set suitable tension not too tight to avoid thread easy broken especially for the garment with heavy washing. 使用新线和调较线的松紧度线不可乙太紧以防止容易线断，虽要重水洗的成衣要特别注意15 WB m/b in clean finishing. 裤头一定是还口车缝制造方法16 Usually WB s/b 4 pcs with slightly curve in shape the join seam is on center back and center front grain line m/b in straight cut.or appointed by buyer. 通常裤顼是四片小弯形剪裁制造法的，接驳车缝合是在后中的，而前裤头是需要直纹剪裁，并且在条子布和格子布要配对间条和格子的17 The extention tab on waist band m/b same width as the WB and well cover the WB. 裤头的搭带要跟裤头的宽阔相等，并且要覆盖裤头18 Center front waistband edge s/b align straight to center front zipper fly opening edge. 前中裤头边沿要跟前中拉练的开口边沿并排列成一条直线19 Is not accepted over 1/8quot gap from waistband seam to tip top of zipper on center front center back and side seam zipper. 前中，后中和侧骨拉錬顶距离裤头底缝骨的空隙距离不可以长多过1/8吋20 M/B provide horizontal bartack on the bottom edge of J fly for single needle top stitching to ensure the reinforcement. 单针面线的钮牌底边要加横打组以加强拉力21 M/B provide horizontal bartack on the bottom inner edge of J fly for double needle top stitching to ensure the reinforcement. 双针面线的钮牌底内边要加横打组以加强拉力22 M/B provide horizontal bartack on 1/4quot over from the bottom inner edge of J fly for jeans double needle top stitching to ensure the reinforcement. 牛仔双针面线的钮牌底内边上1/4吋要加横打组以加强拉力23 Vertical bartack m/b provide at underside front zipper fly for single needle and double needle top stitching to ensure the reinforcement. 单针和双针纽子和钮牌底内要加直打组以加强拉力24 Jeans m/b provide vertical bartack 1quot up from bottom inner stitch on inner stitch of J fly for double needle top stitching to ensure the reinforcement. 牛仔双针纽牌内面线要加直打组，打组位置距离纽牌底内线上一吋以加强拉力25 Zipper fly bottom end is not accepted raw edge m/b in clean finishing. 垃炼排末端不接受散口的制造方法，必需是要还口车缝的26 Invisible zipper end on sideseam c/front and c/back seam m/b well covered with match color thin binding in 3/8quot width. 侧骨，前中和后中骨的隐形拉炼尾末端要用薄身和配色布包裹缝好外露的隐形拉练裹布宽3/8quot27 Invisible zipper top edge m/b add hood and bar. 隐形拉炼顶边必需要加扣28 Raw edge is not accepted on pocket bag edge it m/b in clean finishing. 不接受袋布边沿是散口车缝方式，应该是还口车缝才是正确的制造方法29 Bartack m/b provided for 5 thread overlock seam amp opening seam at inseam crotch for pants. 如果浪底内长是5线鈒骨和平车开骨的裤子虽要有打组在十字浪底只口上30 Vent and pleat end opening m/b have reverse stitches or bartack. 叉尾顶和褶顶要来回车缝线或加打组31 Vent and pleat end opening with top stitching reverse stitch m/b align amp same length as top stitching. 叉尾顶和褶顶的来回车缝线长度要跟面线的长度相同和并排列同一条车缝线上32 Side seam vent without taping m/b self turn in clean finishing. 侧骨叉 如果没有车落捆边条布 必需是原身布还口的车缝制造方法33 Front back and side vent on bottom opening m/b natural closed is not accept lapped vent and vent swing towards to side. 前中，后中和侧骨脚的开叉要自然顺直，不接受有迭叉和叉斜向外侧34 Hand needle thread tack in cross stitch to close pleat amp vent at bottom opening is required but not suitable for silk amp fabric with clothing to avoid needle mark. 褶尾端和叉尾端要用手针线缝合成quotXquot形的交叉线 是有需要的 注意不适用於丝质料布和有表层布的布料，以防止留下针孔痕迹35 Clean finishing for hem bottom opening. 脚位一定是还口车缝制造方法36 Is not accepted twist on hem bottom opening. 不接受裤脚车缝有扭曲37 Blind hem bottom opening m/b at least have 5 SPI and s/b have 5/8quot to 3/4quot lapped stitchecs on inseam back panel area. 如果脚是挑脚车缝制作的，一吋内最少有五针以上，位处后幅内长之起针和收针的车缝迭线长度必需要有5/8吋至3/4吋38 Trun seam allowance for hem bottom opening m/b same height and reach to the hem top stitching for denim. to void washing crease mark 牛仔布类的脚还折只口高度必需是跟车缝脚面线高度相同以防止水洗之后出现折痕 牛仔布类的下摆还折只口高度必需是跟车缝下摆面线高度相同以防止水洗之后出现折痕39 Seam allowance at inside collar collar stand sleeve cuff placket waistband patch pocket pocket flap and etc m/b even width for see through and thin fabric. 如果成衣是透视布料和薄身布料来制造的货品上领，下领级，袖口级，面筒，底筒，裤头，贴代和代盖等等的只口要宽窄一致40 Ensure that at inside collar sleeve cuff placket waistband pocket flap and etc. are no remainder for see through and thin fabric. 如果成衣是用透视布料和薄身布料来制造的货品上领，下领级，袖口级，面筒，底筒，裤头和代盖等等内里不可留下杂物41 To attach down size label to main lbl the stitches m/b all the way from one side edge to another side edge and the thread can not lapped the light blue stripe on main label. 车落尺码唛到主唛上，车缝线要从一头的开端车缝至另一未端，并且要注意车缝线不可以车落在主唛的浅篮色条子上42 Attach down main loop label m/b have reverse stitches on both sides and thread is not allow drop down from label threads on top amp bottom m/b match colour. 折车落主唛头到成衣时，两端车缝线要来回针线两次，并且车缝线不可以跌出唛头外，落唛头的面线和底线要配对色43 Garment with full zipper on front zipper tape at top amp bottom m/b insert into collar band and bottom band. 如果成衣有前中全开拉炼款式，拉炼的头和尾末端必须插入下领级内和衫脚内44 Garment with full zipper at front zipper tape edge should have self fabric binding or light weight fabric in match colour binding. 如果成衣有前中全开拉炼款式，拉炼边布应该要用原身布料的捆条布包好拉炼边或用薄身配衫身色的布捆条包好拉炼边45 Besom/welt pocket is not accept kissing smiling and rooming. 唇代不接受迭唇，笑口和虚位46 Besom/welt pocket m/b keep close stitching in 5-6 SPI on center part and both sides approximate 1/2quot gap. 唇代中间部份要封口，车缝线一吋之内要有5至6针，靠近两侧留半吋开口47 Patch pocket m/b keep close with stitching in 5-6 SPI on center part and both sides approximate 1/2quot gap. 贴代中间要车缝线封口，车缝线一吋之内要有5至6针，靠近两侧留半吋开口48 Is not accepted quilting have skip stitching overlap stitches and not accepted padding come out to top surface or under side. 不接受间棉布有漏车线，迭线，毛或棉不可以漏出到布面和布底49 Tear drop loop m/b tack down to seam allowance with bartack. 辫子耳仔要用打枣固定在只口上50 Top item with lining s/b have 3/4quot length fixed taping to link at underarm seam. 有里布的上装款式应该要有3/4quot 长的条带将袖子里布连系到袖夹底只口上51 All front pocket bag s/b 8quot length and 7quot width also pocket bag corner m/s in round shape for bottom wear. 下装所有前代布要有8英吋长和7英吋阔，并且代布的角要是圆形的，或客人指定之款式 FINISHING : 后整1 Single needle top stitch below WB seam on side seam m/b in even length and provide bartack at the end of stitching. 牛仔裤类裤在头下肶骨上的车缝线长度要相等，车缝线末端一定要加打组2 All pants m/b have pressing centre crease line from bottom opening to crotch level or appointed by buyer. 裤类是中熨折的，熨折位是从脚口至平衡浪底位元，或客户指定之方法3 Natural pressing crease line for denim pants. 牛仔裤是牛仔熨折方法4 Some item garment buyer appointed metal ware m/b well covered with tissue paper. 有某些种类成衣，客户有指定金属制品要用拷背纸包裹好的5 To avoid rusty and oxidative on metal ware in wet processing or after washing. 防止金属制品有出现生锈或有氧化情况发生在水洗过程中和水洗之后6 To avoid trims such as dyed bttn color label leather label and etc have col