纺织品设计专业英语.ppt

1、Textilespecialtyenglish,纺织品专业英语,Welcome!,ObjectContentsThewayoflearningTask/HomeworkAchievements,ChapterOneFibers,Fibers:complexlong-chainpolymersNaturalfibersRegeneratedfibersSyntheticfibersFilamentandStaple,Naturalfibers,Ingeneral,naturalfibersscoreonaesthetics,arevariableinperformanceandaretendin

2、gtobecomehigherinprice.CottonLinenWoolSilk,Cotton,Themostimportantnaturalfiberiscottonwhichaccountsforabout50percentofworldfiberusage,althoughinwesternEuropeandtheUSAithasbeenovertakenbypolyester.Cottonhasagoodaestheticimageandisbelievedtobecomfortabletowear(relatedtoitsabilitytoabsorbmoisture);buti

3、thasseveralperformancedrawbacks,notablytheneedforironingunlessitisresintreated,anditshighflammability.,Linen,Linenisanothernaturalfiberbasedoncellulose,althoughverydifferentaestheticallyfromcotton.Itismuchmoreexpensivetoproducethancottonanddoesnotperformaswell.Therearealargenumberofothernaturalfiber

4、sderivedfromcellulose,suchashemp,manillaandjute,butnoneofthesehassignificantuseinclothing.Althoughtheyarecheap,thehandleisgenerallytooharshandunattractiveforclothing;theyaremoresuitedtotheiruseinropes,carpetsetc.,Wool,Woolisanaturalfiberofanimalorigin.Thequalitiesofdifferentwoolsvarygreatly.Themerin

5、osheepofaustralia,SouthAmericanandSouthAfricaproduceveryfineandsoftwool.Thequalityofwoolfromthesesourcesdependsontheconditonsandheritageofthesheep.Woolisattackedbyhotsulphuricanddecomposescompletely.Itisgenerallyresistanttomostothermineralacidsofallstrengths.Woolwilldissolveincausticsodasolutionstha

6、thavelittleeffectoncotton.,Silk,Anotherfiberwhichisgenerallyexpensivebutsometimesdumpedontheworldmarketissilk.Despitethisitshighaestheticvalueremainsundiminished.Itdoes,however,haveconsiderabledrawbacksintermsofcreasingparticularlywhenwet.Forthisreason,evenwhenthepriceisrelativelylowandthemarketexpa

7、nds,thereissooncustomerreactionagainsttheuseofsilkin,forexample,blousesandshirts.,Words,TextileYarnFabricCottonLinenSilkWoolviscose,RegeneratedSyntheticHandleStapleFilamentCountSpinWeave-Knit,Regeneratedfibers,Thefirstman-madefiberswereregeneratedbuttheirpopularityhasgraduallyreceded.Themainregenera

8、tedfiberisviscose.Itsperformanceismarkedlyinferiortocotton,particularlyinwetstrength,althoughitischeaper.Abetterfiberthanviscoseinperformancetermsbutcloselyrelatedtoitismodal.Thisisstrongerthanviscoseandmuchnearercottoninperformancealthough,ofcourse,itcannotbeusedunderthatname.Itspriceisgenerallybet

9、weenthatofcottonandviscose.,Syntheticfiber,PolyesterNylon(Polyamide)AcrylicSpandex(Lycra)Aramidfiber(Kevlar)GlassfiberCarbonfiber,Polyesterfiber,Byfarthemostimportantman-madefiber,andsecondonlytocottonintotalworldusage,ispolyester.Ithasahighstandardofperformance,exceptintermsofmoistureabsorption.Iti

10、s,however,cheaperthanallthenaturalfibers,andalthoughitissubjecttooilpricechangesand,therefore,likeallfiberssubjecttoopportunisticpricingbythemarket,itislikelytoretainitspopularity.,Nylon(polyamide),Forclothing,nylon(generallynowknownaspolyamide)hasyieldedtheleadtopolyester.Thereasonsforthisarepartly

11、aesthetic,i.e.theassociationofnylonwiththewarpknittedfabricsof20yearsagobutalsoincludeimportanttechnologicaldifferencesinprocessingandinabilitytoblendwithotherfibers.,Acrylicfiber,Acrylicfiberretainsasignificantmarketshareasanalternativetowool,particularlyinknitwear.Itcanbeextremelypricecompetitivew

12、ithwoolanditdoeshavetheadvantageoverthenaturalfiberthatitismachinewashable.Thisadvantagehasbeenpartlyeliminatedbythemachinewashablefinishesnowavailableforwool,butthepricedifferenceremains.Essentially,thedecisionisbasedonpriceversusaesthetics.,Filamentandstaple,Fibersmaybeavailableintwoforms:filament

13、orstaple.Thenaturalfibers,withtheexceptionofsilk,areallinstapleform,whereasman-madefiberscan,intheory,beproducedinboth.Inpractice,marketconsiderationsnowmeanthatviscoseisavailablegenerallyonlyinstapleform,withacetateandtriacetateinfilament.Acrylicisinvariablystaplebutpolyesterandnylonareavailableinb

14、oth.,Words,PolyesterPolyamidefiber(Nylon)AcrylicSpandexAramidfiberGlassfiberCarbonfiber,OrganicfiberInorganicfiberCreaseProteinDenierRegain,Homework,Theclasswouldbedivideinto4teams,pleasegivemethenameofeachteam.Findanewfiber(donottalkingaboutspecificallyinclassbefore),studythecharacteranduseofthisfi

15、ber,describethisfiberasaPPT,nexttimeintroducetous.,Yarns,WoolenandworstedSelf-twistYarnandTwistlessYarnCore-SpunYarnFancyyarnTexturedyarnYarntwistandyarnnumber,WoolenandWorsted,Staplefibersgenerallyrequireconversionintoyarnsasthefirststageintheproductionoffabric.Thetraditionalnameswoolenandworstedre

16、fertospinningsystemsusedtodealwithwoolandarenot,althoughtheyareoftenusedassuch,substitutesforthenamewool.Thewoolensystemgiveshighbulkyarnswithrelativelylowerstrengthandtheworstedsystemhightwistyarnswithrelativelyhigherstrength.Infact,syntheticfibersmaybeprocessedonboththesesystems,asindeedtheymaybeo

17、nthesystemoriginallydesignedforcotton.,Self-twistYarnandTwistlessYarn,Self-twistyarnsareessentiallytwo-strand(ormore)yarns.Theymayinvolveonestrandofstaplefibersandoneoffilament,twostrandsofstaplefibers,ortwofofilaments,ormultiplecombinationsofthese.,Corespunyarn,Core-spunyarnshaveacentralcorewithase

18、condlayeroffiberswrappedaroundit.Bothcoreandwrappingmaybeofthesamefibertype,ortwodifferentfibertypesmaybeused,Fancyyarn,Fancy,complexornoveltyyarnsareusuallyuneveninsize,variedincolor,ormodifiedinappetencebythepresenceofirregularitiesdeliberatelyproducedduringtheirmanufacture.,Texturedyarns,Textured

19、yarnhasbeenconfinedtoaselectedgroupofyarns,orfilaments,thathavereceivedspecifictreatmentduringmanufacture.,Words,WoolenWorstedCore-spunyarnTexturedyarnFancyyarnTwistFalse-twist,Strand,Dictation,ViscoseSyntheticfiberPolyesterFilamentSpandexWoolenWorstedLinenTwistSpin,YarnPreparation,Yarnsasmanufactur

20、edandpackagedarenotinthepotimumconditiontobeusedtofromfabrics.Afteryarnformation,bothspunandcontinuousfilamentyarnsarenotimmediatelyusableinfabricformingsystems.Pcakagesize,buildandotherfactorsmakeitnecessaryfortheyarntobefurtherprocessedtoprepareittobehandledefficientlyfuringthefabricfromation,Yarn

21、Preparation,Winding,Thefirststepinyarnpreparationforbothweavingandknittingiswinding.Thereasonsforwindingyarnare:1.toproduceapackagewhichissuitableforfurtherprocessing;2.toinspectandcleartheyarn(removethickandthinspots),QuillWinding,Thismethodofquillwindingisusedforthefollowingreasons:A.tohelpthetend

22、encytoballoonastheyarnisunwoundfromthequillB.tohelpmaintainuniformtensioninthefillingyarnsC.toreducethepossibilityofsloughing-off,Warping,Ifthefabricformingsystemisweavingorwarpknitting,someoralloftheyarnformingthefabricarepresentedinsheetform.Itisnecessarythereforetoremovetheyarnsfromthewindingpack

23、ageandarrangethedesirednumberonapackagecalledabeam.Theyarnsmustbeparallelandunderuniformtension.,SlashingorWarpSizing,Thepurposeisaccomplishedby:1.Enhancingthestrengthoftheyarnbycausingthefiberstoadheretogether.2.Makingtheoutersurfaceoftheyarnsmooth,Fabric,Theprincipalmethodsofconvertingyarntofabric

24、remainweavingandthetwobasicformsofknitting-warpandweft.Warpknittingbecameveryimportantinthe1960sbecauseitrepresentedthefastestmeansofconvertingyarntofabric.Unfortunatelythemachinerywaslimitedinthatitcouldonlyuseflatfilamentyarn,andalthoughattemptshavebeenmadetomodifywarpknittingmachinestoincorporate

25、staplefiberyarnsthesehavegenerallynotbeencommerciallysuccessful.,Knitting,Weftknitting,however,hasremainedpopularbothforgarmentsectionsmadetorequireminimummake-up,andasfabricusedonacutandsewbasis.Thelargemarketgeneratedinthe1960sandearly1970sforweft-knittedfabricbasedontexturedpolyesterhasgreatlydec

26、lined,butotherformsofknittedgoodscontinueinpopularity.Inperformancetermsthemaindifferenceisinthestretchcapability.Aweft-knittedfabrichas,ingeneral,considerablymorestretchthanawovenone,withwarp-knittingcominginbetween.Differentstructurescancausevariationsonthisbutthegeneralprincipleremains.,Weaving,T

27、hereremainstheaestheticevaluationbythecustomerofwovenasopposedtoknittedfabricand,exceptinknitwear,thishastendedtofavorwovensoncethelargepricedisadvantagewasremoved.Inperformanceterms,thedensityofyarnusageandthetypeofweaveorknitstructureconsiderablyinfluenceperformance,notonlyintermsofstretch.,Non-wovenfabric,Themaincompetitortoweavingandknittinginfabricproductionhasbeentheriseoftheso-callednon-wov