鞋成型工艺说明课件

鞋面與大底成型

ASSEMBLEUPPER&O/S

依照鞋子結構的不同,通常分車中底與結幫兩種成型流程:

Accordingtothedifferentshoeconstruction,therearetwokindsofassemblyprocedure,strobel&lasting.

結幫流程又分為一次流程及兩次流程或多次流程.

Forthelastingconstruction,thereare3kindsofprocedure,onetimelasting&twotimeslastingormorethantwotimelasting.

這裡僅以一次結幫流程為例,了解成型的過程:

Hereonlyshowtheonetimelastingprocedureforexampletoknowtheassemblyprocedure:鞋成型工艺说明1.浸康特

SOAKTRCOUNTER1,浸康特時注意康特角不要浸膠。PaymoreattentiontothebottomofTRcountercan’tbesoaked.

2﹐用鑷子夾住康特放入513藥水中,只要除康特腳外其他部分有碰到膠水,就馬上取出來.浸膠不宜過久﹐過久會使康特軟化。Clipthecounterwithforcepsandthenputitinto513primer.Don’tsoakcountertoolongtoavoidthecounterfromsoften.3﹐康特浸好后需放在鐵綱滴干。Putthecounterontheironshelfaftersoaking.

4﹐康特擺放鐵架上涼干時不宜過久,不要超過15分鐘。Makethecounterdrynotmorethan15minutes.5.操作員應戴上手套及口罩等環保用品.Theoperatorshouldwearthesafethingsofglove&respirator.AppliedTooling:鐵網

Ironmeshwork手套Glove鑷子forceps鐵架Ironshelf鞋成型工艺说明1,從裝鞋面的車架上取下鞋面,貼上流水標以便配雙作業,剪斷連線,放鞋面入流水帶上.Taketheupperfromtheshelfandattachpairnumbersticker,thensnipthethreadthatmakeonepairofuppertogether,atlastputupperonconveyerbelt.2,剪線時不要剪到鞋面.

Don’tbreaktheupperwhensnipthread.

3.注意鞋面要配雙.Note:Needmaketheupperpair.2.准備放鞋面

PREPAREUPPERAppliedTooling:剪刀scissor鞋成型工艺说明1.取一小塊泡棉,對折好再夾在夾子上,刷膠時將泡棉在膠水裡浸一下.Preparealittlepieceoffoamorclothandfoldthennipitwithclamp.Soakamomentbeforecementing.2.從裝楦頭的車上取下楦頭,將楦頭底面周圍10MM寬刷白膠Takethelastfromtheshelf,thencementaroundlastbottom10mmwidthwithlatex.3,刷膠時左手握楦頭,右手拿夾子.刷膠要均勻到位.Duringcementing,thelefthandholdthelast&therighthandholdclamp.Makesuretocementevenlyandcompletely.4.操作員應戴上口罩等環保用品.Theoperatorshouldwearthesafethingsofrespirators.3.楦頭底刷白膠

CEMENTLASTBOTTOMWITHLATEXAppliedTooling:夾子Clamp膠壺Gluepot鞋成型工艺说明4.中底正面刷白水膠

CEMENTTHEINSOLEBOARD1.中底整形,壓力30KG,時間5”.Moldtheinsoleboardwithpressure30kg&time5”.2,刷膠前將中底板排放整齊,左手壓住中底板,右手拿刷子.Beforecementing,thelefthandholdthelast&therighthandholdclamp.3.用刷子沿中底上面周圍15MM寬刷白膠,刷膠要均勻到位.Taketheinsoleboardfromtheshelf,thencementaroundthetopofinsoleboard15mmwidthwithlatex.Makesuretocementevenlyandcompletely.4.操作員應戴上口罩等環保用品.Theoperatorshouldwearthesafethingsofrespirators.AppliedTooling:夾子Clamp膠壺Gluepot鞋成型工艺说明5.鞋面後跟刷膠

CEMENTHEELUPPER1.滾里及鞋面後跟兩邊擦黃膠,膠水要均勻,到位.不可積膠.Cementthebothsidesofcollarliningandheelupperwith766Nyellowglue.Makesuretocementevenly&completelybutnotamassintoapile.2,刷好膠的鞋面﹐按規定在流水線上排放整齊,保持順暢的流程,流進烘箱。Puttheupperontheconveyerbeltinordertokeeptheproceduresmooththroughovenaftercement.3.設定烘箱的溫度為70度,時間1分鐘.Adjustthetemperature70&time1min.4.過此烘箱的作用是烘干膠水,軟化鞋面.Letgluedry&softentheupperthroughtheoven.AppliedTooling:刷子Brush膠壺Gluepot鞋面後跟/滾裡刷膠過烘箱鞋成型工艺说明6.貼後跟康特

ATTACHEHEELCOUNTER

1.左手拿鞋面﹐右手拉開內里.左手拿鞋面,右手如圖所示拿康特,先使康特腳平齊畫線,對准后跟中心點并貼死,再壓康特的上沿固定.Lefthandholdtheupper,andtherighthandundrawthecollarlining.

Theleftstillhandholdtheupper,andtherighthandholdthecounterasshownontheillustrationNo.2.Atfirstmakethebottomedgeofcounteralignthemarkline¢ermark,andpressthebottomcenterportionofcounter,thenpressthetopcenterportionofittofixthecenterposition.

3.右手從中心點向兩邊固定康特下沿.Pressthecounterbottomfromthecenterportiontobothsides.4.5,固定康特外腰及內腰.Attachthelateral&medialportionofcounter.6.貼滾口內裡並摸平.Atlastattachthecollarlining&makeitsmooth.4,固定康特外腰3,固定康特下沿5,固定康特內腰2,固定后跟中心點1,后跟滾里與鞋面須拉順6,滾里貼死并摸平鞋成型工艺说明7.後跟康特整形

MOLDHEELCOUNTER1,裝上正確的定型模.通常熱熔膠港寶用冷定型,康特用熱定型,溫度大約60度,壓力5KG,時間大約8”.Setupthecorrectmoldingmold.Commonlyforhotmeltcounterusethecoolmold,forTRcounterusetheheatmoldwithtemp60&pressure5kg&time8sec.

2.將裝好康特的鞋面,分左右腳放在相應的定型模上.Puttheleft&rightupperwithcounteronthepropermouldspecially.3.使鞋面後跟中心對准後定型模的中心,再整型.Needbackstitch3-4stitchesonthestart&stopstitchingportion.定型機Backmoldingmachine定型模MoldingmoldAppliedTooling:鞋成型工艺说明8.貼中底

ATTACHINSOLE1,左手拿楦頭,右手拿中底,將中底中心點對准楦頭中心點,從後跟往前貼.Thelefthandholdthelasttomake

upthebottom,andtherighthandholdtheinsoletomakethecentermatchthelast,thenattachtheinsoleonlastfromheeltofront.

2.確保中底弧度與楦頭弧度相吻合.Makesuretheinsolefitwithlast.鞋成型工艺说明9.鞋面余皮刷膠

CEMENTTHETOELASTALLOWANCE1.通常對於一次流程的鞋面,均用白水膠刷鞋面余皮.對於多次流程的鞋面,均用PU膠刷鞋面余皮.Commonlyfortheshoethatonlyneedbelastedonetime,cementthelastallowancewithlatex.Fortheshoethatneedbelastedmorethanone,cementthelastallowancewithPUglue.2,左手拿鞋面,右手拿刷子.刷鞋面頭莊余皮10mm寬.Thelefthandholdtheupper,andtherighthandholdthebrush,cementthetoelastallowancewithwidth10mm.3,刷膠要到位,均勻,但不能刷太高也不能溢膠.刷膠後放入流水線,送進烘箱.Cementingshouldbecomplete&evenbutnottoohighorcomeout.Putitontheconveyerbeltthroughtheovenaftercementing.4,烘箱溫度設為80度,時間2分鐘.Adjustthetemperature80&time2minofoven.

5,過此烘箱的目的,使鞋面余皮的膠水干一些.MaketheglueforthelastingallowancedrythroughtheovenAppliedTooling:刷子Brush膠壺Gluepot鞋面結幫余皮刷膠過烘箱鞋成型工艺说明10.鞋頭軟化

SOFTENTOPPORTION1.調整鞋頭軟化模的溫度150-200度,時間8-10”.Adjustthetemperatureto150-200andtime8-10”ofmoldforsofteningtheupper.2.一般足球鞋或鞋面皮料較硬的鞋面需經過此流程軟化,以免結幫後鞋面花角.Commonlyforthefootballshoeortheshoethatupperleatheristoosoft,bothneedthroughthisproceduretoavoidwrinkleafterlast.AppliedTooling:軟化機Softenmachine鞋成型工艺说明11.前接幫

TOELASTINGAppliedTooling:1.設定正確的前幫機使用參數,壓頭壓力:35kg.壓著時間:5秒,掃刀溫度:室內自然溫度.Setcorrectparameterforthetoelastingmachine:Pressure:35kg,time:5sec,temperatureofwiperastheindoor’s.2.前抓的排放要與楦頭弧度相吻合.Theshapeofclawshouldfitthelast.3.前幫時,中心點要對正,前爪要抓齊印刷線(點),余皮按印刷線作業.Duringtoelasting,makesurethecentermatchthelast&theclawofmachinealignthemarkingforlasting.Makesuretheallowancefollowtheprintingline.4.結幫後,頭莊高度要一致.Makesurethetoeheightconsistent.前幫機Toelastingmachine鞋成型工艺说明12.插鞋叉,緊鞋帶

INSERTSPACER&TIGHTSHOELACE1.插鞋叉,平齊鞋舌上沿.再緊鞋帶.Insertthespacerbetweenthetongue&laceandmakethetopedgealignthetongue’s.Thentightentheshoelace.2.緊鞋帶後,用量版比對助帶口寬度是否正確.Checkifthewidthofeyeletstayiscorrectwithgaugeboard.鞋成型工艺说明13.拉腰幫

SIDELASTINGAppliedTooling:1.拉腰邦余皮需平齊中底印刷線.Sidelastingmustfollowtheprintinglineontheinsole.2.結幫后內﹐內外腰須緊貼楦頭﹐余皮平順且均勻。Aftertheallowancemustbesmooth&uppermustfitthelastonthemedial&lateralportion.鳥嘴鉗Pincer腰幫機Sidelastingmachine鞋成型工艺说明1,設定后幫機器正確參數,壓力35公斤,時間:5秒,掃刀溫度:室內自然溫度.Settheproperparameterofheellastingmachinewithpressure35kilo,time5secandtemperatureastheindoor’s.

2.依訂單楦頭及後跟定型模更換掃刀(圓角楦頭用圓掃刀).Changetotheproperwiperofheellastingmachineasperthecorrectlast&heelmoldingmold.(Forroundanglelast,usetheroundshapewiper.3.壓完后幫后須對比后跟高度:相同號碼之后跟高度要一致.Needchecktheheelheighttomakesureit’sconsistenceforonepairafterpressing.4.配雙放入流水帶,進入下一流程.Pairandputitontheconveyerbelttoprocessthenextprocedure.AppliedTooling:後幫機Heellastingmachine14.壓後幫

PRESSHEELLASTING鳥嘴鉗Pincers壓後幫對比後跟高度鞋成型工艺说明15.磨景

ROUGHING1,在磨景機上裝上正確的砂帶﹐一般用40#-60#的,將余皮折縐磨平。Settheproperemerytapeonthegrindingmachine,commonly40#-60#.Roughthetoelastingallowanceflatonthewrinkleportion.

2,磨平后余留的粉屑﹐須運用吹風槍吹干淨.Blowthechippingcleanwithblowerafterroughing.3.磨景不可磨破鞋面﹐不可有燒焦的現象﹐砂帶須定時更換.Don’tbreaktheupper&burnttheupperduringroughing.Theemerytapeneedbechangedontime.AppliedTooling:磨景機Grindingmachine砂輪石Emerywheelstone鞋成型工艺说明16.余皮壓平

PRESSTHELASTINGALLOWANCEFLAT1,選擇正確的鐵板燒.Choosetheproperironplateasthelastconstruction.2,設定機器參數,對反毛皮版鞋面,鐵板燒溫度用室內溫度,皮料版溫度80度;壓力均為35公斤,時間10秒.Settheproperparameterofmachine.Forthesuedeversion,thetemperatureoftheironplateisindoor;Fortheleatherversion,itneed80.Forthebothversion,setthepressure35kilo,time10sec.3,操作時將套楦鞋面放正放穩,不可歪斜搖晃.壓平後放入流水線,送進烘箱.Makethelasteduppermatchthecenterline&staystably,notallowtotwist&roll.Putitontheconveyerbeltthroughoven.4,烘箱溫度設為100度,時間4分鐘.Settheoventemperature100&time4minutes.

5,過此烘箱的目的,使鞋面定型.Keeptheuppershapefitthelastthroughtheoven.AppliedTooling:壓平機Pressingmachine鐵板燒Ironplate鞋成型工艺说明17.CHECK前後高度,大底配雙

CHECKTOE&HEELHEIGHTTHENPAIR

1,經過加硫之套楦鞋面,放於平台上,CHECK其高度是否正確,並放入下一流程.Checktheheightoflastedupperandpairthenputittothenextprocedure.2.套楦鞋面及大底配雙標上流水號,放入流水線上.Thelastedupper&unitsolepairandwritedownthepairnumberthenputtoconveyerbelt.查高度是否正確:水解筆hydrolyzepenAppliedTooling:標流水號鞋成型工艺说明18.畫線

GUIDEMARKAppliedTooling:1.設定壓力為4KG,調整放畫線模的水平度.Setthepressureto4KG&adjusttheguidemarkinglevel.2.畫線時先須標出鞋頭和后跟中心點以利于大底鞋面貼合時對正.Atfirstmakethetoe&heelcenterontheuppertoavoidthecentercomesofflast.3.確保畫線要一致.Makesurethemarkingconsistent.水解筆hydrolyzepen畫線模Guidingmarkingmold畫線機Guidingmarkingmachine鞋成型工艺说明19.刻磨,吹灰

BUFF&BLOWAppliedTooling:刻磨機Buffmachine砂輪Emerywheel吸塵機Dustcollector耳塞Earplug1,選用正確的砂輪,進行刻磨,不能磨破皮料,不可燒焦.Usecorrectemerywheeltobuff,anddon’tbreaktheleatherorburnt.

2.將磨好的套楦鞋面,放入吸塵箱中進行吹灰.Putthelastedupperindustcollectortoremovetheflour.鞋成型工艺说明20.大底/鞋面洗藥水

O/Sprimer1,大底藥水處理:PrimerO/S橡膠用白色1016A+1%B粉;雜色用1016A+2-3%B粉;WhiterubberO/Sprimerwith1016A+1%B;variedcolorrubberdowith1016A+2-3%;EVA需照光處理,白色用UV-11N能量0.52J/CM2,黑色用UV-8N處理,能量0.47J/CM2.時間均為10-12秒.EVAneedtreatwithlight,forwhiteEVAlightwithUV-11Nenergy0.52J/CM2,forblackEVAdowithUV-8Nenergy0.47J/CM2;lighttime10-12secforbothcolor.Shank用111YCN+2%RFE藥水處理PrimerO/S:Whiterubberwith1016A+1%B;variedcolorrubberwith1016A+2-3%B;EVAwithUVlight.PrimerShankswith111YCN+2%RFE.2.反毛皮,面皮用UE-9SF+5-7%CL-12處理,人造皮用111YCN+2%E-1000,網布不需藥水處理.PrimerthesuedeandleatherwithUE-9SF+5-7%CL-12,forsyntheticuse111YCN+2%E-1000,formeshnoneedprimer.3.在處理藥水過程中﹐藥水不可太少或過量﹐不可有外溢現象。處理後Duringprimer,don’tapplytheprimertoomuchortoolittleorcomeout.4.粘藥水的絲瓜布要經常更換.Thetowelgourdclothsoakedprimerneedbechangedoften.鞋成型工艺说明21.過烘箱

THROUGHOVEN1,鞋面在烘箱下層,烘箱溫度70-80度;底部配件在烘箱上層,烘箱溫度50-55度,時間均為2分鐘.Putthelastedupperontoplayerofovenandsetthetemperature70-80;Putthebottomonbottomlayerofovenandsettemperature50-55.Heattime2minutesforboth.

2.過此烘箱的目的,烘干藥水.Thepurposeistodryafterprimer.鞋成型工艺说明22.第一次上大底膠

O/SFIRSTCEMENT1.鞋面是真皮(含反毛皮),不需刷一次膠;如鞋面是網布或人造皮,需刷一次膠用116NN+3-5E%-1000.Fortheleatherupperincludingsuede,noneedfirstcement;Forthemesh&syntheticupper,needfirstcementwith116NN+3-5E%-1000glue.2,准備好刷子和膠水,膠水要在規定的時間內用完,刷子每半小時更換一次,以免積膠.Preparethebrush&glue.Andthegluemustbeusedupinrequestedtime&changethebrusheveryhalfhourtopreventgluefromamassing.

3.用116NN+3-5E%-1000)刷大底一次膠,刷膠要均勻,到位,不可溢膠.FirstcementO/Swith116NN+3-5E%-1000glue.Cementingshouldbeeven&completeandnotcomeout.4.將大底整齊地排放在輸送帶上送入烘箱.PuttheO/Sontheconveyerbeltinorderandintooven.5.鞋面烘箱溫度70-80度,底部烘箱溫度50-55度,時間4分.Setoventemp70-80forupper&50-55forbottom,heattime4minutes.鞋成型工艺说明23.大底刷二次膠

SECCEMENTO/S1,准備好刷子和膠水,膠水要在規定的時間內用完,刷子每半小時更換一次,以免積膠.Preparethebrush&glue.Andthegluemustbeusedupinrequestedtime&changethebrusheveryhalfhourtopreventgluefromamassing.

2.用NP-580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6刷大底二次膠,刷膠要均勻,到位,不可溢膠.SeccementO/SwithNP–580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6.Cementingshouldbeeven&completeandnotcomeout.3.鞋面結幫余皮刷NP-580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6膠後,再貼上前掌填腹,最後在前掌填腹上刷膠.CementthelastingallowancewithNP-580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6,thenattachthefillerontheforefoot,atlastcementthefiller.4.將大底及刷膠後鞋面整齊地排放在輸送帶上送入烘箱.PuttheO/S&lastedupperontheconveyerbeltinorderandintooven.5.鞋面烘箱溫度70-80度,底部烘箱溫度50-55度,時間5分.Setoventemp70-80forupper&50-55forbottom,heattime5minutes.大底二次刷膠鞋面結幫余皮刷膠貼填腹填腹刷膠鞋成型工艺说明24.貼大底ASSEMBLYO/S&UPPER1,鞋面與大底從烘箱出來﹐必須在30-35秒之內完成貼合動作.Takeouttheupper&O/Sfromoven,andneedfinishassemblyin30-35seconds.2.鞋面與大底貼合前，先檢視鞋面與大底是否同一個號碼Needcheckifthesizeofupper&O/Sconsistent.3.貼合時先貼合鞋頭中心位置﹐再貼外﹐內腰部位及后跟.依照確認鞋的相對位置進行操作.Firstattachthetoecenterportionthenlateral&medialportion,atlastattachheelportionfollowingtheconfirmationsample.5.不可貼高膠線或外露膠線。.Themarkingforcementshouldnotbeexposed¬beover.6.貼合動作完成后﹐放在鋼板上檢查大底是否平穩。Needcheckifthefinishedshoeissmoothandflat.1﹐固定鞋頭2﹐固定鞋外腰3﹐固定鞋內腰4,固定鞋后跟5,用撬刀使大底鞋后跟弧度圓順6,檢驗大底平穩度鞋成型工艺说明25.用三合一壓機及上下壓機壓PRESSWITHUNIVERSAL&VERTICALMACHING1,在三合一壓機上,裝上相應的壓底模.Setupthecorrectpressingmouldontheuniversalpressingmachine.2,設定適當的壓力及壓機時間,通常三合一壓機壓力40KG/CM2,時間15秒;上下壓機壓力35KG/CM2,時間8-10秒.Adjusttheproperpressure&time.Commonforuniversalpressingmachinepressure:40KG/CM2,time:15seconds;forverticalpressingmachine,pressure:35KG/CM2,time:8-10seconds.3.先用三合一壓機壓,再用上下壓機壓.Firstpresswithuniversalpressingmachine,thendowithverticalpressingmachine.AppliedTooling:三合一壓機Universalpressingmachine三合一壓模Universalmould鞋成型工艺说明26.除膠&補膠及畫線CLEANGLUE&MARKLINE1,壓機後檢查大底邊牆與鞋面是否有膠縫,如有,補膠後用工具將其壓貼牢固.Checkifanygapbetweenupper&O/Ssidewall.Ifthereis,repairalittlecementwithinjector,andpressheretomakesurethereisnoanygapbetweenupper&O/Ssidewall.2,用生膠片將外溢到鞋面上的膠水擦干淨,並用毛刷粘上清水清洗外露的畫線.Wipethegluecameovertouppercleanwithcreperubber,andwashoutthemarklinewithbrush&water.3.將鞋子放入輸送帶上送入冷凍箱定型.冷凍箱溫度:0-5度;時間:8分鐘.Putthefinishedshoeontheconveyerbeltthroughthecooltrunktokeeptheshapeofshoe.Setthecooltrunkwiththetemperature0-5。C,coolingtime:8minutesAppliedTooling:

注射器Injector毛刷Brush

清液Cleanser鞋成型工艺说明27.解松鞋帶/拔楦LOOSENLACE/DE-LAST1,冷凍定型後,用鐵勾勾松鞋帶.注意不要勾壞鞋面及鞋帶.Aftercooling,makethelaceloosewithironhook.Note:don’tbreaktheupperandshoelaceduringlooseningthelace.2.依照鞋子的形狀調整機器.Adjustthemachineaccordingtotheshapeofshoe.3.拔楦後,大底不能扭曲變形,及不平穩.需用手輕攝一下後跟使其保持後跟的型狀.MakesuretheO/Snottwistandnotrollafterde-last.Inordertokeeptheheelshape,needpresslightlytheheelportion.AppliedTooling:

拔楦機De-lastmachine解松鞋帶:拔楦:鞋成型工艺说明28.清潔鞋面及塞鞋墊PUNCHTHEEYELETHOLE1,清潔時,要依鞋面的材質選擇清洗潔.除去鞋面及底部的膠水用生膠片.Chosetheproperliquidforcleaningaccordingtomaterialofupper.Wipeoutglueonupper&bottomwithcreperubberpi