美文选刊 品味杭州（中英文互译）

美文选刊品味杭州（中英文互译）品味杭州GettingintoHangzhou对于一个地方的看法、感受，从观光或常住的角度是不同的。以前作为旅游观光者也曾数次来杭，但现在不同了。我长期任教于此，有这里的师生、朋友，体会便大不相同；换言之，是可细细品味了。Theperceptionofaplacemaybequitedifferentfromtheperspectivesofsightseeingandpermanentresidence.Previously,IhadvisitedHangzhouseveraltimesasatourist:itsfeel,however,borenocomparisonwithwhatIamexperiencingnowasalong-termcontractprofessorwhoisacquaintedwithalargenumberofhisstudents,colleaguesandfriends.Inotherwords,nowIcanreallygettothebottomoftheplace.

作为地道的北京人，我们习惯称其他地方为“外地”，并自然而然与北京相比。如果说北京富丽的故宫、雄伟的长城等透露的是一种帝王的霸气，那么杭州的苏堤春晓、平湖秋月、断桥残雪、柳浪闻莺等飘散的则是文人的雅气。NativeBeijingers,suchasmyself,areusedtocallingplacesoutsideBeijing“alien”,andnaturallycomparethemwiththecapital.ThesplendidForbiddenCityandmagnificentGreatWallinBeijingmayrevealakindofimperialhegemonicspirit;thesceneryinHangzhou,however,embodiedin“DawnontheSuCausewayinSpring”,“MoonoverthePeacefulLakeinAutumn”,“BrokenBridgewithThawingSnow”,“OriolesSingingintheWillows”andsoondivulgeanelegantairoftheliterati.

由于地处富庶江南，气候宜人，极少战乱，杭州逐渐形成了自己悠然安详的城市性格。不像喧嚣的大城市上海，一来到这里，会让你脚步放慢、心情松弛下来。顺便而言，这两城市的关系，有点像英国的伦敦与剑桥；因工作竞争、房价等因素，人群之间也发生着类似的对流。BlessedwiththeaffluentsouthoftheYangtzeRiver,pleasantclimateandfewwars,Hangzhouhasgraduallyformeditssereneurbancharacter.UnlikebustlingmetropolisShanghai,assoonasyousetfoothere,youwillslowdownandrelax.Therelationshipbetweenthetwocitiesandtheinterflowoftheirpeople,bytheway,isabitlikethatofLondonandCambridgeintheUKintermsofjobandpropertymarkets.

自2004年起，杭州连续五年蝉联“中国最具幸福感城市”；2008年，杭州又在《瞭望东方周刊》“中国最具幸福感城市”评比中名列第一。Forfiveconsecutiveyearsfrom2004,Hangzhouwasrecognizedasthe“CityofWell-Being”inChina.In2008,itrankedfirstinthecompetitionunderthesamethemeorganizedby

OrientalOutlookWeekly.

说来杭州的格局竟是由历史上的两位文人奠定的。一是唐朝的白居易，他做刺史时改造了西湖，修建了新堤，惠民至今。那天走在白堤上，我问一个学生模样的年轻人：“你知道白居易是谁吗？”他脱口而出：“白市长吗？当然知道了。他当我们市长的时候，实行房屋新政，解决了大部分人的居住问题，老百姓很感激，所以送了他雅号‘白居易’。”这虽然是调侃，但可以看出白居易和杭州人的亲密关系——人们说起他，全然不像在谈论一个一千多年前的人物！Interestingly,thelifestyleoftoday’sHangzhouwaslaiddownbytwohistoricalmenofletters.OnewasBaiJuyi(772—846)oftheTangDynasty(618—907),whorebuilttheWestLakeandmadeanewdyketobenefitthelocalswhenheservedastheprefecturalgovernor.WalkingontheBaiCauseway(namedafterBaiJuyi)oneday,Iaskedayoungstudent-lookingman:“DoyouknowwhoBaiJuyiwas?”“Ofcourse,”heblurtedout,“MayorBaiimplementedthenewhousingpolicyandsolvedthehousingconundrumofmostpeople,whoweresogratefulandthengavehimthenickname‘BaiJuyi’.”(InChinese,thesamecharacter“Bai”canalsomean“free”;“Ju”,housing;“yi”,easy.)Althoughit’sajoke,onecansensetheintimaterelationshipbetweenhimandHangzhoupeople;whenmentioninghim,itdoesn’tsoundlikeoneistalkingaboutapersonwholivedmorethanathousandyearsago!

另一位是宋朝的苏轼，熙宁四年（1071年），他因上书反对王安石变法中的流弊，遭到政敌陷害，被迫离开都城汴京，调任杭州通判，结束任期后，因思念此地，曾再度回来，把这里作为他的第二故乡。他勤政为民，豁达潇洒，留下许多佳话，其中最为人乐道的自然是苏堤和东坡肉。千年之后，人们记起他的，似乎都是愉快的事。TheotherwasSuShi(1037—1101)oftheSongDynasty(970—1279).HewastransferredtoHangzhouasamagistratefromhispostinthecapitalofBianjingafterbeingframedbyhispoliticalopponentsforsubmittingalettertoopposetheflawsofWangAnshi’sreform.MissingHangzhousomuch,hecamebackagainafterfinishinghistermandtreatedthisplaceashissecondhometown.Hisopen-mindedandunrestrainedpersonalityanddiligenceforhispeopleleftmanymuch-toldtales.ThemostmemorablereferencesareofcoursetheSuCauseway(namedafterhim)andBraisedDongpoPork(theporkwasnamedafterhisstyledname).Seemingly,mentioninghisnamegivespeoplejoyevenafterathousandyears.

十三世纪时，意大利旅行家马可·波罗来到这里，对杭州的美赞不绝口，说她美丽而高贵。我想这不仅是对其自然景色的称道，其中也包括人文成分。Inthe13thCentury,MarcoPolo,anItaliantraveler,camehereandwasfullofpraiseforitsbeautyandnobility,whichIthinknotonlycovereditsnaturalscenerybutalsoitshumanelements.与当地多方人士接触后，我感到杭州人的性格是温和的。北京人的骨子里有一种哏劲，说得不对付了会寸步不让，叫真儿到底。杭州人则很少发生直接冲突。首先他们说话的语气没有那么“冲”，多是商量性的口吻，更多配合与信任，实在不成了，还会说：“先生，咱们再想想办法吧？”Havingwidecontactswithlocalpeople,I’vegenerallyfoundthepersonalityofHangzhoupeopletobemild.ComparedtonativeBeijingers,whoaresomewhatstubbornintheircharacters,willingtofighttotheendwithsomeonetheydon’tgetalongwith,Hangzhoupeoplerarelyhavedirectconflictswithothers.Firstofall,theirtoneofvoiceisnotso“blasting”,anditoffersnarrativesthatarenormallysuggestiveandtrustworthy.Ifthingsdonotworkout,theymaysay,“Sir,let’sreconsidersomeotherways?”

杭州人的温和性格，还会让人联想到这里的特产：柔软的丝绸、小笼包、西湖醋鱼……ThegentlenatureofHangzhoupeoplemayeasilyremindusofitslocalspecialties,suchassoftsilk,steamedbunswithstuffing,WestLakefishinvinegargravysauce…

过马路时，走在斑马线上，双向车辆一般都会停在你跟前礼让，这在中国港澳以外的城市是不多见的；好像杭州人平时并没有那么多着急的事。Whencrossingtheroad,solongasyouareonthezebrastripes,vehiclesfrombothdirectionsusuallystopinfrontofyou,whichisprettyrareincitiesofChinaotherthanHongKongandMacao.ItseemsthatHangzhoupeopledon’thavemanythingstorushtointheirdailylife.

与北京的的哥不同，这里的出租车司机很少跟你聊政治，他们更愿向你推荐杭州的景点、特产和美食；各个都像导游，都以这些为傲。一次，我打车要去一处步行街，司机竭力给我推荐了另一处，说那里更有的看。下车后发现，是一个丝绸展销会的门口。后来了解到，每次只要司机把人带到这里（不论是否购买），展销会主办方都会付给他们提成。这种商业运作亦是和风细雨式的，即是在大量介绍、劝导之后、你情我愿地发生的，似乎亦是无可厚非。IncontrasttoBeijing’s

dige

(thenicknamefortaxidriversinBeijing),taxidrivershererarelytalkaboutpoliticswithyou;instead,theyprefertorecommendHangzhou’sattractions,specialtiesanddelicacies,actingproudlyastourguides.Oneday,whenItookacabtogotoapedestrianstreet,thedriversuggestedtomeanotherplacewheretherewouldbemorethingstoseeanddo.Gettingoutofthecar,Ifoundmyselfinthedoorwayofasilkfair.LaterIrealizedthateverytimeadriverbroughtsomeonehere,acommissionwaspaidbythefairorganizersregardlessofwhethertheguestpurchasedornot.Thiskindofcommercialoperationwascarriedoutalsoinagentleandsmoothway,sinceIwasfullyinformedandwillingtobehereafteragreatdealofintroductionandpersuasion;reallyIhadnothingtocomplainabout.

其实，杭州这个名义上的二线城市，在内涵上哪一方面也不输给一线城市。历史上，杭州也曾是中国的首都，长达150年之久，有着丰厚的文化底蕴，且名人辈出，除白、苏二位外，还有于谦、沈括、郁达夫、龚自珍、章太炎、夏衍、余华等等。论面积，一个杭州等于8.3个深圳、15个香港、7.6个东京、21个纽约、157个巴黎！Asaso-calledsecond-tiercity,Hangzhouinfactisbynomeansinferiortoanyfirst-tiercityinChina.Historically,HangzhouhadbeenthecapitalofChinafor150years,withanabundantculturalheritageandnumerouscelebrities.ApartfromBaiandSumentionedabove,thereweremanywell-knownfigureslikeYuQian,ShenKuo,YuDafu,GongZizhen,ZhangTaiyan,XiaYan,YuHua.Intermsofarea,surpri