神经传导介质抑制类胜肽专家讲座

神經傳導介質克制類胜肽（Neurotransmitter-inhibitingpeptides）acetyl-glutamyl-glutamyl-methyoxylglutaminyl-arginyl-arginylamide(Argireline)在細胞外藉由影響鈣離子調控旳胞吐作用（Calcium-dependentexocytosis）所需旳蛋白質生成，進而克制神經介質旳釋放。藉由減少肌肉收縮而減少細紋和皺紋SNAREcomplex是膜上蛋白質調控神經胞吐作用旳关键，因為此一複合物會導致（Catecholamine）旳釋放，假如Catecholamine釋放太多就會導致皺紋以及細紋旳形成；所以此類旳胜肽就是克制SNAREcomplex生成

生長因子GrowthFactorEGF:EpidermalGrowthFactor表皮細胞生長因子刺激老化皮膚細胞再活化刺激表皮細胞生長刺激其他活細胞激素分泌刺激纖維母細胞分泌膠原蛋白及彈力蛋白刺激受傷組織血管增生，加速癒合傷口癒合過程中预防疤痕形成抗皺FGF:FibroblastGrowthFactor纖維母細胞生長因子皮膚再生刺激膠原蛋白及彈力蛋白合成刺激纖維母細胞生長刺激老化組織再生以及傷口癒合刺激表皮細胞生長及移動刺激毛髮生長，预防白頭髮形成刺激玻尿酸合成IGF:InsulinlikeGrowthFactor類胰島素生長因子扮演與生長荷爾蒙相同功能刺激骨骼、肌肉及神經再生刺激受傷組織血管增生減緩腦下垂體老化刺激玻尿酸合成刺激毛髮生長並預防落髮VEGF:VascularEndothelialGrowthFactor血管內皮細胞生長因子血管內皮細胞生長因子是強力新血管生長因子刺激血管細胞增生刺激血管細胞移動TGF-β3:TransformingGrowthFactor-β3多功能旳細胞激素刺激細胞繁殖、生長及分化清除疤痕旳形成協助傷口癒合化粧品旳奈米科技風潮

奈米結構易滲透至皮膚內層，讓化妝品旳效果再也不侷限在單純旳表面功夫奈米載體可使其成份滲透至真皮層與角質層交界處，對需要深層吸收才得以發揮旳美白、防皺與塑身等功能，能够得到更有效旳發揮化粧品與奈米科技奈米化原料粒子NanoparticleTitaniumdioxide、Zincoxide、IronoxideMicaandothermetaloxide奈米容器載體NanocarrierLiposomeandethosomeNanosomeandmicelleFullerene奈米化纖維材料NanofiberMaskcontainingchitin/chitosanfiberHappi

LindsayElkins,ContributingEditor,December2023Agegracefully?Nottoday’sconsumer,whooftenseeksanti-agingadvicefromherdermatologistwho,moreoftenthaneverthesedays,marketshisorherownlineofproducts.Salesofprofessionalskincareproductsrose13%in2023,withanti-agingproductsleadingthecategory.TheInternationalTop3020231.UnileverUnitedKingdom$25.48billion2.L’OréalFrance$23.3billion3.HenkelGermany$9.75billion4.KaoJapan$9.6billion5.ReckittBenckiserUnitedKingdom$9.42billion6.BeiersdorfGermany$6.38billion7.ShiseidoJapan$6.35billion8.LVMHFrance$3.74billion9.LionJapan$2.65billion10.ChanelFrance$2.5billion11.YvesRocherFrance$2.41billion12.NaturaBrazil$2.2billion13.GlaxoSmithKlineUnitedKingdom$2.1billion14.AmorePacificKorea$1.78billion15.KoséJapan$1.58billionTheInternationalTop30202316.ClarinsFrance$1.38billion17.OriflameSweden$1.37billion18.LGKorea$1.26billion19.PuigSpain$1.21billion20.PierreFabreFrance$1.0billion21.YSLBeautéTheNetherlands$889million22.PolaJapan$878million23.PZCussonsUnitedKingdom$828million24.TheBoltonGroupTheNetherlands$739million25.SunstarJapan$637million26.TheColomerGroupSpain$598million27.MandomJapan$556million28.LornameadUnitedKingdom$537million29.MenardJapan$521million30.FanclJapan$430millionMajorProducts:Personalcare—Axe/Lynx,Rexona/SureandDegreedeodorants;Dove,Caress,LuxandLifebuoysoaps;Pond’sandVaselineskincareproducts;Organics,SalonSelectives,SunSilk,SuaveandThermaSilkhaircareproducts;Close-upandSignaloralcareproducts.Household—Ala,All,Omo/PersilandSurflaundrydetergents;ComfortandSnugglefabricsofteners;Sunlightdishdetergent,Domestosbleach,Cifcleaners.NewProducts:VaselineCocoaButterrange,Clearanti-dandruffshampoo,DomestosZeroLimescalebleach.MajorProducts:L’OréalParis,Garnier,MaybellineNewYork,SoftSheenCarson.L’OréalProfessionnel,Kérastase,Redken,Matrix,Mizani,PureologyLuxury—Lancôme,Biotherm,HelenaRubinstein,Kiehl’s,ShuUemura,GiorgioArmani,ParfumsCacharel,RalphLaurenFragrances,PalomaPicasso,ParfumsGuyLaroche,Diesel,Victor&Rolf,Yue-Sai.ActiveCosmetics—Vichy,LaRoche-Posay,Skinceuticals,Sanoflore.L’Oréal’soperationsalsoincludeTheBodyShopandGalderma,and50%stakesinLeClubdesCréateursdeBeautéandLaboratoiresInnéov.NewProducts:L’OréalProfessionnelColorSupreme,L’OréalProfessionnelHommeCover5greyhaircover,

L’OréalParisGlamShine,DermaGenesis/SkinGenesis,LancômeRénergieMorpholiftRareline,L’OréalProfessionnelAgeDensiforce,LaRoche-PosaySubstianeanti-agingreplenishingcare,MaybellineDefine-A-Lash,LancômeVirtuosemascara,ShuUemuraArtofHair,MizaniButterBlend.

MajorProducts:LaundryandhomecaresoldunderbrandssuchasPersil,Purex,Dixan,Vernal,MirColueurs,Pril,Bref,SpeeWeißer,RieseandSomat.CosmeticsandtoiletrybrandsincludeSchwarzkopf,Fa,RightGuard,Dial,Igora,Palette,Gliss,Kur,Schauma,Taft,TheramedandDiadermine.NewProducts:Laundry—PurexNaturalElements,Persil20°Cformulation;Haircare—PaletteGoldenGlossBrowns,GlissKurOilNutritive,SchuamaKiwiGlanz,TaftVolumePower,DreiWetterTaftSensitive,BlondMePersonalcare—FaNaturalsshowergelanddeodorant,DialYogurt;Skincare—DiadermineAgeExcelliumOralcare—Theramed2-in-1freshness,TheramedTitanFresh.MajorProducts: Householdproducts,personalcareproductsandcolorcosmetics.NewProducts:Sofinabeauté,SofinaPrimavistabasemakeup,Asiencehaircare(relaunchedglobally),Megurismsteameyemask,AttackBiogelliquidlaundrydetergent,Men’sBioreline(relaunchedinJapan).

MajorProducts:Surfacecare—CillitBang,Lysol,Dettol,Harpic.Fabriccare—Calgon,Vanish,Resolve,Spray‘nWash,Woolite.Dishwashing—Finish,ElectrasolHomecare–Airwik,MorteinHealthandPersonalcare—Veet,Dettols,Clearasil.NewProducts:CillitBangGrease&Floor,DettolHerbalsoapandshowergel,VeetPumpPack,MorteinwithDettol,MorteinNaturgardrange,AirwickFreshmaticMini.MajorProducts:Skincare,beautycareandtoiletriessoldunderbrandnamesthatincludeNivea,Eucerin,LaPrairie,Slek,Labello,8x4,Florena.NewProducts:NiveaDiamondGlosshairproducts;NiveaMySilhouette

bodyshapinggel;NiveaforMenExtremeComfort;NiveaForMenwhiteningoilcontrol(India);NiveaforMenDNAgeanti-wrinklemoisturizer;NiveaGood-ByeCellulitedietarysupplementcapsules(U.S.only);EucerinHyaluron-Fillereyecare.MajorProducts:Skincare,colorcosmetics,suncare,fragrances,haircareandtoiletries.MajorbrandsincludeShiseido,Carita,Decleor,IPSA,Ettusais,D’icilaParfumsIsseyMiyake,ParfumsJeanPaulGaultier,ParfumsNarcisoRodriguez,Nars,CledePeauBeauteZa,ParfumsSergeLutens,UraraandSupremeAupres.NewProducts:ClédePeauBeautéLaCrèmes,Revital,AquaLabelskincare,Acne&skinlighteningseries,Unomen’sskincare,TsubakiGoldenRepairhaircare,UraraMakeup,ShiseidoBOPintensiveskincollectiveprogram,ShiseidoZenfragrance(relaunch).MajorProducts:FragrancesandcosmeticsoldunderbrandssuchasChristianDior,Guerlain,Givenchy,Kenzo,AcquadiParma,ParfumsLoewe,Benefit,FreshandMakeupForever.LVMHalsoownsSephora,thebeautyproductsretailer.NewProducts:Dior—Fahrenheit32formen,MidnightPoisonAddictShinefragrances,CaptureL’OredeVie,Diorskinfoundation,Backstage.Guerlain—L’InstantMagic,EaudeShalimar,AquaAllegoriaFigueIrisandAquaAllegoria

LaurierRéglisse,

CruelGardénia,CherryBlossomdelight,MyInsolence.ParfumsGivenchy—OrganzaJasmin2023,VeryIrresistibleRosaDamascena2023,AmarigeMimosa2023,Vetyver,RougeInterditlipstick.ParfumsKenzo—TokyobyKenzoformen,VintageEdition.Benefit—LoveYourLook,ThatGalfacebrighteningprimer.MakeupForever—AquaEyeswaterproofeyeliners.AcquadeParma—ColoniaIntensa.ParfumsLoewe—Quizas,QuizasQuizas.FendiPalazzoandPucciVivarafragrances.MajorProducts:Oralcare(toothpastes,toothbrushesmouthwashes,breathfresheners,dentalneeds);beautycare(shampoos,conditioners,treatments,hairstylingproducts,men’shaircare,soap,bodywashes,skincare,antiperspirantsanddeodorants);fabriccare(laundrydetergentsandadditives,bleaches,fabricsofteners);homecare(dishwashingdetergents,disinfectants,householdcleaners,kitchen-relatedproducts)andinsecticides.NewProducts:Household—SoflanwithFragranceandDeodorantfabricsoftener,TopKaoriTsuzukuchamomile-scentedliquidlaundrydetergentwithfabricsoftener,LookO2Cleaner(jointproductwithHenkel),Charmygel-baseddishwashercleaner/detergent.Oralcare—DentorSystemaEXExtraHerb,Medishoralcaregum.Personalcare—BanDeodorantMist,BanRefreshPowderSheets,Bathologyskincare,ProTecHeadmen’shaircare.MajorProducts:Skincare,colorcosmeticsandfinefragrances.NewProducts:Skincare—SublimageEssentialRegeneratingCream,Hydramax+ActivemoisturetintedlotionSPF15Colorcosmetics—Facettesd’ornailcolor;RobertsonBoulevardlimitededitionnailcollectionFragrance—AllurepourHommeEditionBlanche,

ChanceEauFraîche,AllureHommeSportCologneSport,No.5EauPremière.MajorProducts:Skincare,cosmeticsandfinefragrancesmarketedunderthebrandnamesofYvesRocher,DanielJouvance,Dr.PierreRicaudandKiotis.NewProducts:Fragrance—Naturelle,CommeuneévidenceHomme.Personalcare—PlaisirsNatureKiwieaudetoiletteandshowergelSkincare—CultureBio.MajorProducts:NaturaEkos,NaturaTododia,NaturaChronos,NaturaMamãeeBebê,NaturaDiversa,NaturaAmorAmérica.NewProducts:NaturaAmorAmérica,NaturaNaturé,NaturaTododia,NaturaDiversaHidrataçãoProlongada,NaturaChronosPolitensordeSoja,NaturaAguas,NaturaFixplant,NaturaFaces,NaturaMamãeeBebe,NaturaEkosCacau,NaturaHomemChromo,NaturaErvaDoceHidratanteFacial,NaturaCrerParaVerBolsaAmigadoMeioAmbiente.MajorProducts:Toothpasteandmouthwash—Aquafresh,Dr.Best,Macleans,Odol,OdolMed2,Polident,Polygrip,SensodyneDenturecare—Polident,Polygrip,Corega.NewProducts:Aquafreshiso-activefoaminggelMajorProducts:Skincareandmakeup—Laneige,Iope,Mamonde,Innisfree,Hera,Lirikos.Fragrances—Lolita,Lempika,CastelBajac,Espoir.NewProducts:SulwhasoosuEssence,ioPEWhitegenRXC,V=BYeginseng,premiummakeupfromLaneige,HappyBathBlueSpaEssentialBodyCleanser.MajorProducts:Skincare,cosmeticsandtoiletries.NewProducts:Junkisuiskincare.MajorProducts:Skincare,finefragrance,colorcosmeticsandsuncaresoldunderbrandnamessuchasClarins,ThierryMugler,Azzaro,StellaCadenteandMyBlend.NewProducts:MyBlendcustomizableskincareMajorProducts:Skincare,fragrances,colorcosmetics,toiletriesandaccessories.NewProducts:EnigmaandRadiantLightsfragrances,OptimalsRadianceGlowselftanner,LiftExpert,PerfectBody,LashExtreme,RoyalVelvetIntensiveRevitalizingClothMask.Also,DiamondMusk,SilkyKisslipstick,DiamondCellularAnti-agingcreamandDermoprofessionalBio-PeelingKit(allinSeptember).MajorProducts:Household—laundryanddishwasherdetergent,fabricsoftener,kitchencleaners.Personalcare—toothpaste,shampoo,soap,babycare,skincare,colorcosmeticsandtoiletries.NewProducts:su:m37fermentedcosmetics,BorrowingEarthhouseholdproducts.MajorProducts:Fragrances—AdolofoDominguez,AgathaRuízdelaPrada,AgueBrava,Anouk,AntonioBanderas,Barbie,CarmenSevilla,DonAlgodon,Maja,Mango,MassimoDutti,Pachá,Quorom,RoasiroFlores,Sportman,Victori&Lucchino,Zara,BostonMan,1916,AntonioMiro,AzurdePuig,Brummel,Eaud’Ete,Equinox,Farala,Springfield,YachtManBlue,Zinnia.PersonalCare—Payot,Dennenes,HenodePravia,Lactovit,Vitese,

Kinesia,Maja,AguaLavandaPuig,Maderas,Misslyn,Nelia,VF.NewProducts:BlueSeductionforWomenMajorProducts:SkincareandhaircareproductssoldundertheAvéne,Ducray,PierreFabricDermatologie,Klorane,GalénicandRéneFurtererbanners.Comments:PierreFabre’sDermo-Cosmeticsunitearmarks5%ofitssalesforresearchprojects,whichareconductedatitscentersinVigoulet-AuzilandSaint-JacquesHospitalinToulouse.ResearchconductedinToulouseismadepossiblethroughan

agreementbetweenthePierreFabregroup,thelocaluniversityhospitalandToulouseUniversity.MajorBrands:Fragrances,cosmeticsandskincareproducts.BrandsincludeYvesSaintLaurent,Roger&Gallet,StellaMcCartney,AlexanderMcQueen,BoucheronandErmenegildoZegna.

NewProductsFragrance—YvesSaintLaurentElle,ParisNuitdeFete,ParisPontdesAmours,OpiumPoesiedeChineEauxd’Orient,L’HommeYvesSaintLaurentEaud’Été2023,ElleYvesSaintLaurentsummerfragrance2023,CinémaScénariod’été,BabyDollMagic;ErmenegildoZegnaZZegnaFresh;StellaMcCartneyStellaSheer2023.Cosmetics—LipTwins.MajorProducts:

SkinCare—Alvita,Whitissimo,Day+DayVitax,Botanex,1/f,Plenna,Polissima,BA,SignsSolution28Carats,SignsSolutionWrinkleShot,EvangileCosmetics—Whitissimo,Silfique,Vivoke,Aniak,Maquifard,SuperSuncare,SouthernCallBodyCare—Feel&Heal;HairCare—IdeaStyle,SimfreeHairColorMen’sCare—Galantom,GRShotS.NewProducts:Whitissimobasemakeup.MajorProducts:PersonalcareproductssoldunderbrandsincludingImperialLeather,Joy,CussonsKids,Premier,Carex,Baby,Luksja,Makler,SweetSeventeen,VenusHair,OriginalSource.HouseholdproductbrandsincludingMorningFresh,Elephant,E,Radiant,Robb,DuckandMinerva.NewProducts:ImperialLeatherSkinBliss.MajorProducts:Laundrycareproducts—OminoBianco,Merito,NibroBathroom/kitchencareandcleaners—WCNet,

Fornet,Last,

Dubro,SolivaisselleSurface&FloorCare—Carolin,SMAC,Overlay,

Vetril,WCEendHouseholdsoapproducts—Cyclon,D’orn.PersonalCare—NeutroRoberts,Borotalco,RogéCavaillès,Sanogyl,Somatoline,

RobertsFragrance,AcqueAlleRoseRobert,Citrosil,Botot,Wetties,Soapy,SilxBeauty—Collistarskincare,makeup,haircare.NewProducts:Collistar—LongLastingColorLineandNourishmentandLustreLinesforhaircare,BodyEnergizingTreatmentformen,GlobalAnti-AgeProtectionTanningFaceCreamSPF30-50+,SupertanningMoisturizingDryOilSPF15,SunEffectMake-Upline,TopglossStickReflex,MagnificaPatch-Lifting-DermalFillingRepairingFaceandNeckMask,PerfectaActiveNeckandDécolletéCream,MagicDropsself-tanningconcentrate,BrighteningTouchhighlightingconcealer,EyeContourLiftingTreatmentformen,PerfectAdherenceShavingFoam,Moisturizing