《中国传统服饰（英文）》PPT课件

1、Chinese traditional costumesChinese Costumes The Chinese costume, which has over 5,000 years history, is just like a long river. And today well present them in three parts, Han Dynasty, Tang Dynasty and Qing Dynasty.Part1 Han FuPart2 Costume in Tang Dynasty Part3 CheongsamHan FuHanfu is also known a

2、s Hanzhuang or Huafu ，is the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people. The term Hanfu derives from the Book of Han, which says, then many came to the Court to pay homage and were delighted at the clothing style of the Han.（后数来朝贺，乐汉衣服制度）Standard stylehistorySpecific styleGallerybodyHistoryHanfu ha

3、s a history of more than three millennia, and is said to have been worn by the legendary Yellow Emperor. From the beginning of its history, Hanfu (especially in elite circles) was inseparable from silk, supposedly discovered by the Yellow Emperors consort, Leizu. The Shang Dynasty developed the rudi

4、ments of Hanfu; it consisted of a yi, and chang, worn with a bixi,. Vivid primary colors and green were used, due to the degree of technology at the time.the Western Zhou Dynasty，the Hanfu became looser, with the introduction of wide sleeves and jade decorations hung from the sash which served to ke

5、ep the yi closed. The yi was essentially wrapped over, in a style known as jiaoling youren, or wrapping the right side over before the leftIn the Eastern Zhou Dynasty， the “deep robe” (shenyi 深衣) appeared a combination of tunic（束腰外衣） and skirt. The upper and lower halves were cut separately but sewn

6、 as a single unit. An additional change was the shaping of the left side of the costume into a corner, fastened on the chest.womenmenSince Song and Yuan, official record used Hanfu to indicate garments Hans wearDuring Liao dynasty, the emperor of Liao and Han officials wear Hanfu, and Empress and Kh

7、itan（契丹） officials wear their national clothing.During Yuan dynasty, when editing History of Liao, the officials especially made an entry for HanfuThe term Hanfu to describe the clothing system of Hans, was not often used within Hans, but was more often used in other ethnic groups and nations, to di

8、stinguish the Hans clothing system and their own clothing systemStandard styleHat and head dressInformal dressSemi-formalFormal dressCourt dressHat and headwear-garmentThe style of Han Chinese clothing can be summarized as containing garment elements that are arranged in distinctive and sometimes sp

9、ecific ways. This may be different from the traditional garment of other ethnic groups in China, most notably the Manchu-influenced Chinese clothes, the qipao, which is popularly assumed to be the solely recognizable style of traditional Chinese garb. A comparison of the two styles can be seen as th

10、e following providesYi (衣): Any open cross-collar garment, and worn by both sexesPao (袍): Any closed full-body garment, worn only by men in HanfuRu (襦): Open cross-collar shirtShan (衫): Open cross-collar shirt or jacket that is worn over the yiQun (裙) or chang (裳): Skirt for women and menKu (褲): Tro

11、users or pantsOn top of the garments, hats (for men) or hairpieces (for women) may be worn.One can often tell the profession or social rank of someone by what they wear on their heads. The typical types of male headwear are called jin (巾) for soft caps, mao (帽) for a stiff hats and guan (冠) for form

12、al headdress. Officials and academics have a separate set of hats for them, typically the putou (幞頭), the wushamao (烏紗帽), the si-fang pingding jin (四方平定巾; or simply, fangjin: 方巾) and the Zhuangzi jin (莊子巾). A typical hairpiece for women is a ji (笄) but there are more elaborate hairpieces.Informal dr

13、essTypes include tops (yi) and bottoms (divided further into pants and skirts for both genders, with terminologies chang or qun), and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times (shenyi). (中衣) or zhongdan (中單): inner garments, mostly white cotton or silk (衫裙): a short coat with a

14、 long skirtRuqun (襦裙): a top garment with a separate lower garment or skirt (褲褶): a short coat with trousersZhiduo/zhishen (直裰/直身): a Ming Dynasty style robe, similar to a zhiju shenyi but with vents at the side and stitched sleeves (i.e. the sleeve cuff is closed save a small opening for the hand t

15、o go through)Daopao/Fusha (道袍/彿裟): Taoist/Buddhist priests full dress ceremonial robesA typical set of Hanfu can consist of two or three layersThe first layer of clothing is mostly the zhongyi (中衣) which is typically the inner garment much like a Western T-shirt and pants. The next layer is the main

16、 layer of clothing which is mostly closed at the front.There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a zhaoshan which is open at the front. Semi-formal dress A piece of Hanfu can be made semi-formal by the addition of the following appropriate items:chang (裳): a pleated skir

17、t bixi(蔽膝): long front cloth panel attached from the waist belt zhaoshan(罩衫): long open fronted coat guan(冠) or any formal hatsFormal dressXuanduan (玄端): a very formal dark robe; equivalent to the Western white tieShenyi (深衣): a long full body garment (曲裾): diagonal body wrapping (直裾): straight lape

18、lsYuanlingshan (圓領衫), lanshan (襴衫) or panlingpao (盤領袍): closed, round-collared robe; mostly used for official or academical dressCourt dressCourt dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch (such as an enthronement ceremony). The entire ensem

19、ble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate. Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear. They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue. There are various versions of court dress that are worn fo

20、r certain occasions.Specific StyleHistorically, Han Clothing has influenced many of its neighbouring cultural costumes, such as Japanese kimono, yukata,Korean Hanbok and the Vietnamese o t thn. Elements of Hanfu have also been influenced by neighbouring cultural costumes, especially by the nomadic p

21、eoples to the north, and Central Asian cultures to the west by way of the Silk Road.gallerynotesCostume in Tang Dynasty 1、The brief introduction of costume in Tang dynasty 2、The features of costume in Tang dynasty 3、How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being? Brief IntroductionThe clothing mat

22、erials were exquisite（精美的）The structure was natural, graceful and elegant Adornments were splendid Complimented by elaborate hairstyle, ornaments and face makeupThe general features of womens costume in Tang dynasty：1)topless（上空装，袒胸装）2）exposed arm3）oblique(斜的）collar4）large sleeves5）long skirt dressA

23、ll of these make it deservethe most typical open clothingstyle. The clothing materials areexquisite, the structure isnatural, graceful and elegant,and adornments are splendid. This is the famous picture簪花侍女图showing a lady strolling in the courtThe lady was wearing a leno-made upper garment, high-wai

24、st skirt and without underdress. This was called “topless”（上空装，袒胸装）Mindedness: the open-minded state“绮罗纤缕见肌肤” “蝉翼罗衣白玉人 ” The open clothing style and its softness and lightness make the womens costume in Tang dynasty so unique and distinctive. The Tang women dressed in sets of garments, and each set

25、a unique image in itself. In general, the Tang womens dressescan beclassified into three categories:（1）Thetraditional ruqun or double layered or padded short jacket that is typical of central ChinaPattern襦裙(Ruqun)Ruqun（襦裙）is worn by women. When its collar likes the letter “y”, we can called it “交领襦裙

26、”.If its collar likes the number“11”,we can called it “对襟襦裙”. When they are classified by its height of the skirt，we can called them “齐腰襦裙”Which waistband is on the waist. Or “齐胸襦裙”Which waistband is above the chest .（ 2）the hufu, or alien dress that came from the Silk Road;（3）Cross-Dressing(namely,

27、girls dressed as boys)， the full set of male garments that broke the tradition of the Confucian formalities拘谨,礼节. After the reign of Tang Emperor Gaozong, purple was used as the garment color for officials above the third grade; light red, officials above the fifth grade; dark green. officials above

28、 the sixth grade; light green, officials above the seventh grade; dark cyan, officials above the eighth grade; light cyan, officials above the ninth grade; and yellow, ordinary people and those who did not live in the palace.How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being?First,in Chinese history,

29、the Tang Dynasty (AD618-907) was a period of unity and prosperity when the polity and economy were highly developed.Materialistic abundance and a relatively relaxed social atmosphere gave the Tang Dynasty an unprecedented opportunity to develop culturally, reaching its height in poetry, painting, mu

30、sic and dance.Second,Based on the progress made in silk reeling and dyeing techniques, the variety, quality and quantity of textile materials reached an unprecedented height. The structure is natural, graceful and elegant, and adornments are splendid. As an important cultural element, womans costume

31、 in various forms in the Tang Dynasty well illustrates the open-mindedness and affluence during that period.Third, The Tang government was tolerant, and often appreciative of religions, art and culture from the outside world.Though the forms of garments were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty

32、 (206BC-220AD) and the Sui Dynasty (581-618), they have distinctive styles by itself being influenced by cultures and arts of the Western Regions. Will you accept your girlfriends/ yourselves dressing very open?CheongsamOrigin DevelopmentOriginnameThe name cheongsammeaning simply long dressentered t

33、he English vocabulary fromthe dialect of Chinas Guangdong Province. In other parts of the country including Beijing, however, it is known as qipao, which has a history behind it.Qing Dynasty(1644), Manchu, Banner People (qi ren).1645 Shunzhi, “Tifa Yifu” Policy(剃发易服)the next 300 years, became adopte

34、d by the Chinese. Survived the political turmoil of the 1911 Xinhai Revolution toppled the Qing Dynasty.The history of cheongsamThe details of cheongsam shirt is not exposed(衫不露外) the right-side lapellpel of junctiondkn decorated with buttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰) clothing plus clothing(衣外加衣) increase waistcoa

35、tweskt or jacket(增加坎肩或马褂) clothes do not get the waist down(衣服上下不取腰身)Rectangular outline(外轮廓呈长方形) Horseshoe-shaped sleeve cover hand(马蹄袖盖手) set rolling craft decoration(镶滚工艺装饰)flowerpot shoes(花盆鞋) Frog盘扣Openings衩Embroiderymbrdr 刺绣Front of a garment襟Development From 1914 to 1949Development From 1914 to 194919301940，Peak period western-style cutting me