纺织(羊毛—蚕丝)

1、2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division1Basic knowledge for Textile纺织基础知识纺织基础知识Textile Technical Training纺织技术培训纺织技术培训 Silk & Wool蚕丝 &羊毛Prepared By:Last Amended:Juliet zhuqinyanVersion:1.010 July. 062022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division2Silk蚕丝蚕丝2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division3Intro

2、duction 介绍介绍 Silk amount in China & world 蚕丝产量分布蚕丝产量分布Varieties 品种品种4 Characteristics 特点特点5 Silkworm Growth & Cocoon 蚕的发育与蚕茧的形成蚕的发育与蚕茧的形成6 Silk manufacturing 蚕茧的工艺加工蚕茧的工艺加工7 Silk wear property 蚕丝的服用性能蚕丝的服用性能2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division41 Introduction 介绍介绍 Silk is a natural protein fibe

3、r. fine, horny, translucent, yellowish fiber produced by the silkworm in making its cocoon and covered with sericin, a protein. 蚕丝是一种天然蛋白质纤维，纤细，透明，截面呈不规则三角形，色泽微黄，是蚕的腺分泌物吐出后凝固形成线状长线，外层包覆丝胶。 2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division52 Silk amount in China & world 蚕丝产量分布蚕丝产量分布Domestic: zhujiang Taihu

4、Chengdu 国内分布： 珠江 太湖 成都2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division62 Silk amount in China & world 蚕丝产量分布蚕丝产量分布International: China India Uzbekistan Brazil 世界分布： 中国 印度 乌兹别克斯坦 巴西77%15%2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division7 1)、Home silk: Mulberry silk 家蚕丝：桑蚕丝； 2)、Wide silk: Tussah silk, Castor-oil p

5、lant silk, cassava silk 野蚕丝：柞蚕丝 、蓖麻蚕丝、木薯蚕丝等。3 Varieties 品种：品种：2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division8 The shimmering appearance for which silk is prized comes from the fibers triangular prism-like structure, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles. 桑蚕丝纵向平直光滑，截面呈不规则的

6、三角形，使丝织物折射外观色泽。 Tussah silk is coarser, flatter, yellower filament than the Mulberry silk. 柞蚕丝纵向表面粗燥，扁平，色泽比桑蚕丝黄。4 Characteristics 特点：特点：2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division91）Growth: egg Larva Pupa moth 蚕的发育： 经过卵、幼虫、蛹和成虫（蛾）四个阶段5 Silkworm Growth & Cocoon 蚕的发育与蚕茧的形成蚕的发育与蚕茧的形成2022-4-16CHINA MERCH

7、ANDISETextile Division102）茧的形成 Cocoon茧衣（外层）：蚕吐丝时，最初吐出的凌乱的丝缕，成为茧的蓬松外廓。（丝缕细，强度差，丝胶含量多，绢纺原料）茧层（中层）：茧衣里面，丝缕绕成丝圈，结构紧密，排列规则，是丝的主体。（丝较粗，强力好） 蛹（内层）： 吐丝将近终了时叠合成的疏松层。（丝最细，发脆，丝胶含量少，绢纺原料） Outside: Low tenacity, more sericinMiddle: Good tenacity, Good silkInside: Crispy, Low sericin, 2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETe

8、xtile Division111) In silk manufacture, the first operation is reeling. The cocoons, having been sorted for color and texture, are steamed or placed in warm water to soften the natural gum. each cocoon may give from 610915 m of filament, This is called raw silk. 第一步是缫丝。蚕茧按色泽、质地分类挑选，利用热水使茧丝上的丝胶适当膨润和部

9、分溶解，从而使茧丝分离下来形成生丝。每个茧可生成610-915m长丝。 6 Silk manufacturing 蚕茧的工艺加工蚕茧的工艺加工2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division126 Silk manufacturing 蚕茧的工艺加工蚕茧的工艺加工2) The next step, called throwing, is preparing the raw silk for the loom by twisting and doubling it to the required strength and thickness. 第二步是捻丝。生

10、丝经合并以达到一定要求的强度和纤度，成为丝纺原料。2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division136 Silk manufacturing 蚕茧的工艺加工蚕茧的工艺加工3) Finishing processes are varying and important. The silk is boiled off in soapsuds to remove gum and prepare it for dyeing. Scouring or boiling causes loss of weight, Dyeing may be done in the y

11、arn or in the piece. 后加工很重要。生丝在皂液中煮沸脱去丝胶形成熟丝以备染色。该工序会使丝纤维丢失重量。也可对纱线或织物染色。2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division147 Silk wear property 蚕丝的服用性能蚕丝的服用性能 SILK garments are prized for their luster, wearability and comfort. Silk absorbs moisture, which makes it cool in the summer and warm in the winter

12、. Because of its high absorbency, it is easily dyed in many deep colors. 丝绸服装吸湿、透气、有光泽，服用性能好，冬暖夏凉。因其对染料的高吸收性，很容易染成各种深色。 Most silk fabrics can be hand washed. Silk dries quickly . Silk is also weakened by sunlight. Silk may yellow and fade with the use of a high iron setting. Press cloths and a steam

13、 iron are recommended. Silk an be damaged by high alkali detergents and chlorine bleach. 大多数丝绸服装必须手洗，洗后易干，避免日晒。因为丝绸在高温下会变黄褪色，应垫布熨烫或蒸汽熨烫。丝绸织物在强碱和含氯漂白剂中易受到损伤。 2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division15Wool羊毛羊毛2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division161 Introduction 介绍介绍 Wool amount 羊毛产量羊毛产量3 Struc

14、ture 形态结构形态结构4 Wool Classify 羊毛分类羊毛分类5 Quality and Grade 品质和等级品质和等级6 Processing wool 羊毛加工羊毛加工7 Characteristics of wool 羊毛的特性羊毛的特性2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division17 Mohair hairCamel hairLama hairYak hairCashmere hair1 Introduction 介绍：介绍：2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division181 Introduc

15、tion 介绍：介绍： Wool, applied to the soft, curly fibers obtained chiefly from the fleece of sheep, and used extensively in textile manufacturing. 羊毛是一种柔软、卷曲的纤维，主要取自于绵羊，广泛应用于纺织工业。2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division192 Wool amount 羊毛产量羊毛产量AustraliaChinaNew Zealand China is No. 2Top 3Total Amount in

16、 worldFleece 94.5Semi-fleece 51.7Coarse 85Ten K ton2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division203 Structure: 形态结构：形态结构：1 Squama structure2 Cortex structure3 Medulla structure 羊毛由鳞片层、皮质层、髓质层组成。2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division214 Wool Classify 羊毛分类羊毛分类 (1)细毛 fleece长毛 Long半细毛 semi-fleece粗毛 coa

17、rse改良毛 Improved wool土种毛 China wool羊羊毛毛粗粗细细羊羊种种品品系系澳大利亚毛 Australia wool新西兰毛 New Zealand wool外外毛毛2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division225 Quality and Grade 品质和等级品质和等级 The value of wool on the market depends primarily on fineness and length of fiber. Strength, elasticity, amount of crimp, uniformi

18、ty, dirt, vegetable matter. are also considered. 羊毛品质主要取决于毛纤维的细度，长度，同时包括强力，弹性，卷曲度和均匀度，杂质等。2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division235 Quality and Grade 品质和等级品质和等级1) Ranger for Average Fiber Diameter (micrometers). 支数毛，按羊毛平均细度评定 70支（18.120.0m）、 66支（20.121.5m）、 64支（21.623.0m） 60支（23.125.0m） Ranger f

19、or coarse wool content. 级数毛，按羊毛的粗腔毛含量评定。 一级、二级、三级、四级、五级。2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division246 Processing wool （1）羊毛加工羊毛加工 The first step in processing wool takes place on the farm or ranch with shearing, usually in the springtime just before lambing. then the buyers to judge the grade. 第一步是在

20、牧场剪毛，通常选在春季母羊产羔前，然后定等。 Next step is washing the wool to remove grease（unrefined lanolin）, vegetable matter and other impurities. 第二步洗毛，以去除油脂,植物质和其它杂质。 2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division256 Processing wool ( 2) 羊毛加工羊毛加工 Clean wools from batches or lots are blended-mixed mechanically at this s

21、tage. 之后，洗净毛可按批混合后用于后加工。 Each wool fiber absorbs dyes so deeply that dyeing at any processing stage. 每根羊毛纤维在各道工序中都能深深地吸附染料。Stock-dyed 原毛染色Yarn-dyed 纱线染色Piece-dyed 面料染色2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division266 Processing wool (3) 羊毛加工羊毛加工 The carding process passes the clean and dry wool through

22、a system of wire rollers to straighten the fibers and remove any remaining vegetable matter，create narrow continuous ropes of fiber called “slivers”. 粗梳工序：干净、干燥的羊毛通过粗梳工序，以除去残余的植物质，拉伸纤维，生成毛条。2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division277 Characteristics of wool 羊毛的特性羊毛的特性Resilience and Durability 回弹性和

23、耐用性 Each wool fiber is a molecular coil-spring making the fiber remarkably elastic. The molecular crimp, along with the 3-dimensional fiber, which allows wool fibers to be stretched up to 50%(wet)30%(dry).and bounce back to original shape when stress is released. 每根毛纤维分子按三维结构排列，赋于其显著的回弹性，湿态下50伸长，干态下

24、30伸长，且可迅速回弹。 The flexibility of the wool fiber make it more durable. A wool fiber can be bent back on itself more than 20,000 times without breaking. 羊毛的高延伸性使之更耐用。经20，000次弯曲而不折断。2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division287 Characteristics of wool 羊毛的特性羊毛的特性2) Fiber Absorbency 吸湿性 Wool can easily ab

25、sorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp or clammy. It can creates a balance in moisture condition and protect the body in both cold and warm conditions. 羊毛可吸收自身重量30的水份而不感到潮湿；可在潮湿环境中平衡自身，从而使身体冬暖夏凉。 Wool keeps a layer of dry air next to the skin which helps to hold in body heat.

26、羊毛织物可在皮肤表面形成一层干燥膜，有利于控制皮肤表面温度。2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division297 Characteristics of wool 羊毛的特性羊毛的特性3) Felts naturally 羊毛的缩绒性 The physical structure of the outer scaly layer of the wool fiber contributes to wools unique property of felting . 羊毛表面的鳞片层使之具有独一无二在缩绒性。 Under the mechanical actio

27、n of agitation. Friction and pressure in the presence of heat and moisture, the scales on the edges of wool fibers interlock. 羊毛在湿热作用下，经机械外力挤压搅动，鳞片层相互摩擦而紧密纠缠，形成 缩绒性。2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division307 Characteristics of wool 羊毛的特性羊毛的特性4）Others 其它 Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistan

28、t, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing. Basically, Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen. 羊毛耐脏，抗燃，许多羊毛机织物抗磨损，抗撕裂。羊毛织物手感柔软，表面有纤细绒毛，光泽较少。 Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens. they are not hotter than polyester but actual

29、ly cooler for its breathes, unlike polyester. 羊毛织物应用于毯子，围巾，外衣及各种面料。事实上特殊编织工艺的羊毛面料比聚酯面料更凉爽、吸汗。2022-4-16CHINA MERCHANDISETextile Division317 Characteristics of wool 羊毛的特性羊毛的特性5) Disadvantage: Attacked by moths if not treated, shrinks if subjected to heat, moisture, and agitation, can be damaged by strong alkali detergents and chlorine bleach, should be dry cleaned although some washable type are available. 羊毛易