染发专家课程

1、Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsWorld of ColourEmotional, sensual, inspirational, these are a few of the ways we define our experience of and relationship with the world of colour. Colour affects our moods, our language and our image of ourselves. It is this which interests

2、the hairdresser, who, empowered with the superb IGORA range can change the world in which their clients live.Colour Expert染发专家Becoming a successful colour expert requires a complex balance of technical and interpersonal skills, business awareness and professional judgement.Schwarzkopf Professional p

3、rovides the tools and solutions to make this reality.要成为一名成功的染发专家，就必须要在人际交往技巧， 商业意识和专业决断力中保持一种复杂的平衡。Schwarzkopf的专业产品为之成为现实提供了工具及解决方案。Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsSession Outline会议纲要Colour Expert染发专家1 TheoryNatural Hair2 General Products Oxidative & Direct PigmentsProd

4、uct GroupsColouring Ingredients1 理论 天然发质2 一般产品 氧化和Direct染料 产品组 染发成分Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsSession Outline会议纲要Colour Expert染发专家3 Hints & Tips Corrective ColourGeneral ColourWhite HairPre-PigmentationHigh Lifting & BleachingPerm & ColourColour Equalisation

5、3 建议和提示 矫正颜色 整体颜色 白头发 染前打底 染浅/漂染 烫发和染发 颜色平衡化Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsTimings时间表10:00 Introduction10:15 Hints & Tips - Exercise10:45Demonstration11:30Break11:45Theory11:55General Products12:15Hints & Tips13:00Lunch14:00 Practical Work16:15Break16:30Summary17:00

6、Finish 10:00 介绍10:15 建议和提示10:45 展示11:30 休息11:45 理论11:55 普通产品12:15 建议和提示13:00 午饭14:00 实践工操作16:15 休息16:30 总结17:00 结束 Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsAims目标By the end of this session you will:Have acquired the necessary skills, knowledge and techniques in order to successfully

7、diagnose and act upon a range of hair colouring problems.通过本课程，您将会：获得必要的技巧，知识和技术来成功诊断和处理一定范围的染发问题。Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsObjectives目的By the end of this session you will:Have developed and revised your knowledge of natural hair colour and pigmentation in order to und

8、erstand colouring processes and corrective procedures .Be able to identify specific product groups, outlining their basic ingredients and action on the hair.Have developed solutions for a range of colouring issues; including retention problems, application on porous or resistive hair as well as pre-

9、pigmentation, equalisation tips and much more.Have practised a range of colouring solutions working with colouring experts to achieve the perfect result.通过本课程，您将会：发展并完善关于天然发色和着色的知识，以便于更好的明白染发程序及修正步骤。能够区分特定的产品组，并大体列出它们的基本成分及对头发的作用。开发解决一系列染发问题的方案；包括褪色问题，多孔性和抗拒性头发的应用问题，染前打底以及平衡化提示等。通过与染发专家共同工作实践一系列染发方案

10、，以取得最完美的效果。Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & Tips1 Theory理论Colour influences our lives in many different ways; a world without colour could be described as boring, empty, lacking in energy and life!A clear understanding of the physiology of hair and natural hair colour will ensure

11、 a successful colouring procedure whilst maximising hair care. 颜色以不同的方式影响着我们的生活；一个没有颜色的世界是乏味，空洞，没有活力和生命的。清楚了解头发及天然发色的心理影响能确保成功的染发方案，同时又能最大程度的保护头发。Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsNatural Hair 1.1天然发质Colour in HairComes from pigment granulesType & quantity determines tone

12、& depthPigment size & shape variesCuticle condition influences perception头发中的颜色 来源于色素颗粒 种类和发质决定发色深浅度 色素大小和形状不同 头发表层情况影响perceptionColour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsNatural Hair 1.2天然发质Pigment TypeMelanocyte cells create pigment granules Found within the root bulb Trigge

13、red by a chemical catalystTwo types of pigment are formed Pheomelanin EumelaninBoth combine to create natural shades Natural tones are achromatic色素种类 黑素细胞产生色素颗粒 发现于发根中 由化学催化剂促成 形成的两种色素 外激素 真黑素 两者结合生成天然色调 天然发色为鲜艳色 pigmentationzonekeratinisation zonemelanocytesColour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3

14、Hints & TipsNatural Hair 1.3天然发质Depth & ToneColour depth is determined by quantity Greater pigment concentration = darker shade Eumelanin has more influence on depth Depth is represented by a scale (1 to 10)Colour tone is determined by type Combinations of eumelanin & pheomelanin Tone is

15、 more evident as hair lightens Pheomelanin has more influence on tone颜色深浅度和发色 颜色深浅度取决与发质 越大量的色素汇集=越深的色调 真黑素对颜色深浅度的影响更大 颜色深浅度以一个比例的形式体现（1比10） 发色取决于头发类型 是外激素和真黑素的结合 发色越浅色调越明显 外激素对发色影响更大thick hairnormal hairfine hair= pigmentextra light blondelight blondemedium blondedark blondlight brownmedium brownda

16、rk brownblackColour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsNatural Hair 1.4天然发质Primary UndertonesAs hair is lightened, tones become evidentPrimary undertone will influence final shadeCorrective colouring may be required基础发色 发色越浅，色调越明显 基础发色影响最终发色 有可能需要颜色修正pheomelanineumelaninColour Expert1

17、 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsNatural Hair 1.5天然发质Behaviour of PigmentsEumelanin Is larger than pheomelanin Is broken down more easily Is found closer to the edge of the cortex Can be grey / brownPheomelanin Is much smaller than eumelanin Size determines colour Is more deeply embedded i

18、nto the cortex Can be red / orange / yellow色素作用 真黑素 比外激素大 容易分解 在头皮表层更容易发现 可能是灰色/棕色 外激素 比真黑素小多了 大小决定发色 更容易被头皮深层次吸收 可以是红色/橘红色/黄色Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & Tips2 General Products普通产品Colouring hair is a science as well as an art form. It is a unique process when compared to dyi

19、ng fabrics or similar materials, as the root bulb of the hair shaft is alive!A good working knowledge of the type of products available for colouring hair will provide the foundation necessary in order to become an expert.染发不仅是一门科学更是一门艺术。有别于织物染色，它是一门独特的工艺流程，因为毛囊中的发束是活的。对于染发产品种类的充分了解会为成为这一行业的专家提供必要的基

20、础。Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Products普通产品2.1Pigments in Colouring ProductsDirect Pigments Demi / Semi Pre-developed direct dyestuff Pigments are deposited in the cuticle Some pigments lodge in the cortex Pigments gradually wash outOxidative Pigment Permanent Und

21、eveloped para-dyes Need H2O2 and ammonia additives Pigments develop within the cortex染发产品中的色素 Direct色素 半持久性/非持久性 预先处理过的direct染料 色素附着与头发表层 一些色素渗入头皮 色素会逐渐被洗去 氧化色素 持久性 未处理过的para-dyes 需要H2O2及氨水 色素在头皮中生长Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Products普通产品2.2Product GroupsPlant ba

22、sed colour Some colour penetrates into cortex Some colour is deposited in the cuticle layerSemi-Permanent Colour is deposited in the cuticle layer产品组 植物提取液染发 一些颜色渗入头皮 一些颜色附着于头发表层 非持久染发 颜色附着于头发表层Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Products普通产品2.3Product Groups产品组Demi-Perm

23、anent Some colour penetrates into cortex Some colour is deposited in the cuticle layerPermanent Colour penetrates fully into the cortex 半持久染发 一些颜色渗入头皮 一些颜色附着于头发表层 持久性染发 颜色完全渗入头皮 Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Products普通产品2.4Plant based colourHas direct pigmentsMainl

24、y deposits pigment in the cuticleGradually fadesIs ammonia freeIs tone-on-toneCreates a high gloss finish植物提取液染发 有direct色素 色素主要附着于头发表层 颜色逐渐褪去 没有氨水 能在染过的头发上再上色 能够营造十分光亮的质感 Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Products普通产品2.5Semi-Permanent ColoursHave direct pigmentsMainly

25、deposit colour in the cuticleDo not use H2O2 solutionGradually fadeAre Ammonia FreeBlend up to 20% white hairHave a cosmetic benefit非持久性染发 有direct色素 色素主要附着于头发表层 不使用H2O2配方 逐渐褪色 不使用氨水 能遮盖20%的白头发 有美容功效 Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Products普通产品2.6Demi-Permanent Colour

26、sCombine direct & oxidative pigmentsDeposit colour in the cuticle & cortexUse a weak H2O2 solutionGradually fade outAre Ammonia FreeHave a gentle colouring actionBlend up to 50% white hair半持久性染发 将Direct和氧化色素结合 色素不仅附着与头发表层还渗入头皮 使用较弱的H2O2配方 逐渐褪色 不使用氨水 染发反应较柔和 能遮盖50%的白发Colour Expert1 Theory2 Ge

27、neral Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Products普通产品2.7Permanent ColoursBleaches Lighten hair colour Reduce natural pigments Dissolve artificial pigments Require H2O2Oxidative Tints Deposit permanent colour within the cortex Red, blue & yellow pigments develop into final colour Can lighten or da

28、rken shade Require H2O2 Cover up to 100% white hair持久染发 漂染 使发色变浅 减少天然色素 溶解人工色素 需要H2O2 氧化染发剂 色素持久渗入头皮 红色，兰色及黄色色素搀入最终发色 能使色调变浅或变深 需要H2O2 100%遮盖白发Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Products普通产品2.8Colouring Ingredients Oxidative ColourThe base cream Oil or water based emuls

29、ionColour precursors Undeveloped colour moleculesDyestuffs Pre-developed colour moleculesAlkalising agents Oxidative catalyst 染发成分 氧化染发 基础乳液 油性或水性乳剂 Colour precursors 预先处理过的色素分子 染料 未成熟的色素分子 碱化试剂 氧化催化剂Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Products普通产品2.9Colouring Ingredient

30、sCaring agents Promote healthy hairAntioxidants Prevent pre-oxidation of colour precursors Complexing agents Combine with metallic impuritiesPerfume Disguises the smell of ammonia染发成份 护理试剂 促进生成健康头发 抗氧化剂 预防colour precursors的过早氧化 综合试剂 与金属杂质混合 香料 掩盖氨水的气味Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints &a

31、mp; Tips3 Hints & Tips建议和提示Where theory provides the foundation of colour expertise, practical experience is what counts! Not all colouring procedures are straight forward, nor do they follow the instructions on the packet! Proven hints and tips as well as corrective colouring procedures set apa

32、rt the good salon from the bad as well as home colouring from salon-based colour. 理论只提供染发技能的基础，实际经验才是最重要的。并非所有的染发步骤都是简单明了的，它们和包装上的说明并不相同。经证实的提示和建议以及正确的颜色矫正步骤不仅能区分一个发型屋的好坏，还能分别居家染发和发型屋染发。Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsCorrective Colour 3.1颜色修正Hair is too lightRestore colourH

33、air is too darkRemove colourWrong toneNeutralise or clean out colour发色太浅 修复发色发色太深 去除颜色发色不对 中和或去除颜色Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsCorrective Colour 3.2颜色修正The Colour WheelComplementary colours Yellow - Violet Orange - Blue Red - Green色轮 互补色 黄色紫罗兰 橘红色兰色 红色绿色Colour Expert1 The

34、ory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsCorrective Colour 3.3颜色修正Restoring ColourIGORA Royal re-pigmentation treatmentPost pigmentation IGORA Gloss IGORA Fleur IGORA Royal Color Concentrates修复发色 依采王室re-pigmentation配方 染后护理 依采Gloss系列 依采Fleur系列 依采永久染发浓缩配方Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints &a

35、mp; TipsCorrective Colour 3.4颜色修正Removing ColourIGORA Vario Blond CleanseIGORA Vario Blond Correct去除颜色 依采无尘漂粉 依采修正漂粉Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsCorrective Colour 3.5颜色修正Removing ColourIGORA Ultra Soft BleachIGORA Lightening Cream去除颜色 依采超柔漂染 依采光亮乳霜Colour Expert1 Theory2 G

36、eneral Products3 Hints & TipsCorrective Colour 3.6颜色修正Neutralising ColourIGORA Royal ShadesIGORA Royal Colour Concentrates中和颜色 依采永久色 依采永久染发浓缩配方Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsCorrective Colour 3.7颜色修正Neutralising ColourIGORA Blond TonerIGORA Personality | Fleur | Gloss中和

37、颜色 依采金色爽肤水 依采的Personality/Fleur/GlossColour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Colour3.8普通染发Resistive HairProblem Tight, closed cuticle layer Hair is resistive to colourRecognitionSolution抗拒性发质 问题 过于紧密，贴近头发表层 头发不容易上色 认识 解决方案Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints &

38、TipsGeneral Colour 3.9普通染发Porous HairProblem Open cuticle layer Loose, damaged internal structure High initial absorption with low retentionRecognitionSolution多孔性发质 问题 开放的头发表层 松散，遭到破坏的内部结构 首次染发高吸收不易褪色 认识 解决方案Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Colour 3.10普通染发Colour Inten

39、sityProblem Fading colour Poor coverageRecognitionSolution发色集中 问题 褪色 覆盖程度不够 认识 解决方案Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Colour 3.11普通染发Colour DepthProblem Colour result is too darkRecognitionSolution颜色深浅度 问题 染后颜色太深 认识 解决方案Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints &am

40、p; TipsGeneral Colour 3.12普通染发Colour ToneProblem Colour result is too warmRecognitionSolution色调 问题 颜色太偏暖色 识别 解决Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Colour 3.13普通染发Colour ReflexProblem Colour result is dull and flatRecognitionSolution颜色反射作用 问题 染后颜色太平淡 认识 解决方案Colour Expert1

41、 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Colour 3.14普通染发Re-TouchingProblem Re-growth is too vibrant after using a fashion shadeRecognitionSolution补染 问题 使用一种流行色后新发生长太快 认识 解决方案Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsGeneral Colour 3.15普通染发Corrective ColourProblem Unwanted to

42、nes after colouringRecognitionSolution颜色修正 问题 染后出现不想要的色调 认识 解决方案Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsWhite Hair 3.16白发White hair:Is caused by the absence of all pigmentIs often coarse and resistiveCan be difficult to colourMay completely or partly cover the head白发： 由于缺少所有色素引起 头发常

43、常粗糙，有抵抗性 很难染发 可能局部或全部覆盖头部 Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsWhite Hair 3.17白发CoverageProblem Inadequate coverageRecognitionSolution覆盖 问题 没有足够覆盖 认识 解决方案Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsWhite Hair 3.18白发Porous White HairProblem Open cuticle layer Loose, d

44、amaged internal structure High initial absorption with low retentionRecognitionSolution多孔性白发 开放的头发表层 松散，遭到破坏的内部结构 首次染发高吸收不易褪色 认识 解决方案Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsWhite Hair 3.19白发Resistive White HairProblem Tight, closed cuticle layer Hair is resistive to colourRecognitio

45、nSolution抗拒性白发 问题 过于紧密，贴近头发表层 头发不容易上色 认识 解决方案Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsPre-Pigmentation 3.20染前打底Pre-Pigmentation: Is used to restore natural pigment shadesShades are red, orange and yellowIs required when colour 2 levels+ darkerCan be achieved with a range of products染

46、前打底 用来修复天然色调 色调为红色，橘红色和黄色 当颜色需要加深两度时使用 能够使用一系列产品来达到该效果Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsPre-Pigmentation 3.21染前打底Porous HairProblem Hair lacks colour retention due to high porosity and poor conditionRecognitionSolution多孔性发质 问题 头发因为糟糕的发质和高渗透性而不具抗拒性 认识 解决方案Colour Expert1 Theory2

47、 General Products3 Hints & TipsPre-Pigmentation 3.22染前打底Lightened HairProblem Hair has been lightened and needs to be coloured back to a darker shadeRecognitionSolution染浅的头发 问题 头发被染浅，需要被染回更深的颜色 认识 解决方案Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsPre-Pigmentation 3.23预防色素沉着Red Target

48、ShadeProblem An intense red shade is required 2 levels lower than the target shade RecognitionSolution红色目标色 问题 集中的红色需要比目标色淡两度 认识 解决方案Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsHighlifting & Bleaching 染浅和漂染3.24Highlifting & bleaching:Can result in unwanted tonesCan involve 2 or 3 separate proceduresRequires powerful chemicals染浅和漂染 可能会带来不想要的色调 可能会需要两到三次的分开步骤 需要强劲的化学物质 Colour Expert1 Theory2 General Products3 Hints & TipsHighlifting & Bleaching染浅和漂染3.25Tonal VariationProblem The highlifting