减少碳足迹？如何评估亚洲服装行业的碳排放（英）-国际劳工组织

DecentWorkinGarmentSupplyChainsAsia

、Reducingthefootprint?

Howtoassesscarbonemissions

inthegarmentsectorinAsia

ILOAsia-Pacificreport

2021

March

1、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia2

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3、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia4

、Acknowledgements

ThisreporthasbeenpreparedfortheILO’sDecentWorkinGarmentSupplyChainsinAsiaprojectwiththefinancialsupportoftheSwedishDevelopmentAgency(Sida).

ThereportwaspreparedbyElsaDominishandSamanthaSharpeoftheInstituteofSustainableFutures,UniversityofTechnologySydney,underthesupervisionandguidanceofCristinaMartinez,SeniorSpecialistEnvironmentandDecentWorkoftheILORegionalOfficeforAsiaandthePacific.ThereportispreparedinpartnershipwiththeUNFCCC,KusumLataandWilliamAgyemang-Bonsu.

WewouldliketoacknowledgeLaurelAndersonHoffnerforhereditingandpublicationsupport;MontyChanthapanyafordesigningthereport;reviewersoftheTextileandGarmentEco-InnovationResearchNetwork(TERN);DavidWilliamsandothercolleaguesoftheDecentWorkinGarmentSupplyChainsinAsiaproject;andtheILO’sGREENJOBSprogrammefortheirvaluablecontribution.

、Executivesummary

Thetextileandgarmentsectoraccountsforasignificantproportionofglobalcarbonemissions,estimatesrangebetween6and8percentoftotalglobalcarbonemissions,orsome1.7billiontonnesincarbonemissionsperyear.TheParisAgreementsetsouttolimitglobalwarmingtolessthan2degreesabovepre-industriallevels,withthepreferabletargetoflimitingwarmingto1.5degrees.Theemissionreductionsassociatedwithachievingthisgoalaresignificant–toreachthistarget,globalemissionswillneedtodeclinebyabout45percent(on2010levels)by2030andbeatnetzeroby2050.

Garmentsectorstakeholderscametogetherin2018tocommittoclimateactionthroughtheUnitedNationsFrameworkConventiononClimateChange(UNFCCC)FashionIndustryCharterforClimateAction.SignatoriestotheChartercommitto30percentgreenhousegas(GHG)emissionreductionsby2030(froma2015baseline)andnet-zeroemissionsby2050.

Thisisasignificantchallenge–realizingthis30percentreductioninthesector’semissionswouldrequireareductionofmorethanhalfabilliontonnesofcarbondioxideacrossthesectorperyearby2030.Meetingthischallengewillrequiresystem-levelchangesintheproductionandconsumptionoftextilesandgarments,andwilllikelyhavesignificantimpactsonhowandwheregarmentsareproducedandtheemploymentassociatedwiththisproduction.

Thisreportprovidesanexplaineronhowandwherecarbonemissionsaccrueacrossthetextileandgarmentsectorsupplychainasaprecursortoidentifyingwhereinthesupplychainactionshouldbemosttargeted.Thefindingsshowthatemissionsoccurallalongthevaluechain,butaremostsignificantintheyarnandfabricproductionphase,whichisalsoconsistentwithotherenvironmentalimpactssuchaswaterconsumptionandchemicalsuse.

EnergyuseisthemajorcontributortoGHGemissionsinthetextileandgarmentsector.Highenergydemandcomesfromthewetprocessingstages(dyeingandfinishing),whereenergyisusedtocreatesteamtoheatwaterandalsofordryingfabrics.Thecarbonintensityoftheenergysourcesusedinproductioncentres(coalornaturalgas)translatestohighemissionsintensityfortextileproduction.Energycanalsoaccountforasignificantportionofcostswithinenergy-intensivepartsofthevaluechain,suchastextilemillsandgarmentfactories;sothereisaneconomicandaswellanenvironmentaldrivertoreduceemissionsinthesector.

Thereportexaminescarbonemissionsacrossthegarmentsectorascountedusingthetwoprominentmethodologiesforcalculatingemissions,withthepurposetoprovideinsightintowhereandwhythecarbonintensityoftextilesandgarmentsvariesacrossthesupplychainandwhereactivitiestodecarbonizethesectorshouldbeprioritized.ThetwostandardizedapproachestomeasuringGHGemissionsarethroughlifecycleassessment(LCA)andcarbonaccountinginlinewiththeGreenhouseGasProtocol.

Thisreporthighlightsthecarbonemissionimplicationsof:

、usingdifferentfabricsandtextiles(specificallynaturalversusman-made);

、thecarbonintensityofenergysourcesinproductioncentres;

、theoverallvolumeofproduction;and

、thelengthandintensityoftheusephase(includingwashingandwearingbehavioursofconsumers).

Thescaleandpaceofsystem-widechangeingarmentmanufacturingrequiredtomeettargetsforclimateactionmeansthattherewillalsobesignificantimpactsontheworldofworkinthesecomponentsofthesupplychain.Reducingcarbonemissionwillrequirechangestobusinessmodelsalongsidetechnologicalandprocessinnovations.Toachievethesechangeswillrequireinvestmentsinhumanandfinancialcapitaloverasustainedamountoftimetoensureajusttransitiontakesplace.

5、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia6

、Contents

Acknowledgements

3

Executivesummary

4

Abbreviations

6

、1.Introduction

8

1.1.Purposeofthispaper

8

1.2.AboutOutcome4oftheDecentWorkintheGarmentSupplyChaininAsiaproject

9

1.3.Method

10

1.4.Structureofthisreport

10

1.5.Backgroundcontext–environmentalimpactsofthetextileandgarmentsupplychain

11

、2.Carbonemissionsinthetextileandgarmentsector

14

2.1.Distributionofemissionsacrossthevaluechain

14

2.1.1.Textileandgarmentproduction

14

2.1.2.Consumerusephase

15

2.1.3.Distributionandend-of-life

16

2.1.4.Variationsbetweenfibres

16

2.2.Geographicallocationofemissions

17

2.2.1.Emissionsfromproduction

17

2.2.2.Emissionsfromconsumption

18

、3.Approachestomeasuringemissions

20

3.1.Lifecycleassessment

20

3.1.1.LCAuseinthetextileandgarmentsector

21

3.2.SpecificexamplesofLCAuseinthesector

22

3.2.1.LCA-basedtools

23

3.2.2.LCIdatabases

23

3.2.3.Limitations

24

3.3.GreenhouseGas(GHG)Protocol

24

3.4.Greenhousegasassessmentsinthetextileandgarmentsector

26

3.4.1.Science-basedtargets

27

、4.Conclusionsandimplicationsforreducingemissionsinthegarmentindustry

30

References

33

、Abbreviations

CO2e

Carbondioxideequivalent

GHG

greenhousegas

HiggMSI

HiggMaterialSustainabilityIndex

kWh

kilowatthour

LCA

lifecycleassessment

LCI

lifecycleinventory

M&S

Marks&Spencer

NDC

nationallydefinedcontribution

SAC

SustainableApparelCoalition

SBTs

science-basedtargets

SBTi

ScienceBasedTargetsinitiative

UNFCCC

UnitedNationsFrameworkConventiononClimateChange

WALDB

WorldApparelandFootwearLifeCycleAssessmentDatabase

WBCSD

WorldBusinessCouncilforSustainableDevelopment

WRI

WorldResourcesInstitute

7、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia

、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia8

1.Introduction

1.1.Purposeofthispaper

TheParisAgreementsetsouttolimitglobalwarmingtolessthan2degreesabovepre-industriallevels,withthepreferabletargetof1.5degrees.Theemissionreductionsassociatedwithachievingthesetargetsaresignificant–toreachthem,globalemissionswillneedtodeclinebyabout45percent(of2010levels)by2030andbeatnetzeroby2050(IPCC2018).

Garmentstakeholderscametogetherin2018tocommittoclimateaction,forgingtheUnitedNationsFrameworkConventiononClimateChange(UNFCCC)FashionIndustryCharterforClimateAction.TheCharterisanindustry-widecommitmenttosupportthegoalsoftheParisAgreement,launchedinDecember2018atthe24thConferenceofthePartiesinKatowice,Poland(UNFCCC2018).1SignatoriestotheCharter2committo30percentgreenhousegas(GHG)emissionreductionsby2030(froma2015baseline)andnet-zeroemissionsby2050.

Thisisasignificantchallenge–globallythegarmentandtextilesectoraccountsfor6–8percentofemissions(Niinimaki2020),orsome1.7billiontonnesofcarbonemissionsperyear.A30percentcutmeansemissionsreductionofsomehalfabilliontonnesofcarbondioxideperyearby2030,andthisambitiousgoalraisessomeimmediatequestions:Howwillthesectorachievethesetargets?Whatincentives,supportandpoliciesneedtobeinplace?Whateffectswilltheseemissionreductionsandtheresultingchangesinproductionandconsumptionsystemshaveonemploymentandtheworldofwork?FortheILO,theimplicationsfortheworldofworkareclear.AsdiscussedattheGoverningBodyinNovember2020,climatechangewillsignificantlyimpactjobsandlivelihoodsandchallengeourabilitytoachievesustainabledevelopment(ILO2020).Thetransitiontoalow-carbon,environmentallysustainableeconomyandsocietywillprovidedemandfornewemploymentandskills,andallowfortheachievementofpovertyeradicationandsocialjustice.However,incertaincircumstances,geographies,communitiesandsectors,itwillhavenegativeimpactsonemploymentandlabourmarkets.Asindustrialactivitiesmoveawayfromcarbon-intensiveproduction,employmentandeconomicactivitywillalsoneedtochange,andindustrialchangeatthisscaleisrarelysmooth.Alow-carbontransitionthatisalsojust–leavingno-onebehind–willrequiretheongoingengagementofstakeholders,andthedevelopmentandimplementationofspecificpoliciestosupportemploymentcreationandskilldevelopment,sustainableenterprisedevelopment,socialprotection,rightsatworkandsocialdialogue(ILO2020).

Specifically,theILOGoverningBodyprovidedILOwithamandateforactionto:

a.promotefurtherdiscussion,research,knowledgeandunderstandingoftheimplicationsofclimatechangefortheworldofwork,focusingonallrelevantsectors;

1ThetextofthesignedCharterisavailableat:

/sites/default/files/resource/Industry%20Charter%20%20

Fashion%20and%20Climate%20Action%20-%2022102018.pdf.

2Thecurrentlistofsignatoriesisavailableat:

/climate-action/sectoral-engagement/global-climate-action

-in-fashion/fashion-industry-charter-for-climate-action/participants-in-the-fashion-industry-charter-for-climate-action#eq-1.

9、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia10

b.advancetheapplicationoftheILOGuidelinesforaJustTransitiontowardsEnvironmentallySustainableEconomiesandSocietiesforAll,withafocusonassistinggovernments,workers’organizationsandemployers’organizationsinthedevelopmentofpoliciesthroughsocial

dialoguetoimplementtheirclimatechangecommitments,includingthroughtheClimateActionforJobsInitiative;

c.promotecollaborationbetweentheILO,itsconstituentsandrelevantinternational

institutionsaddressingclimatechangeandrelatedkeyenvironmentalissues,suchas

deforestation,desertification,risingsealevelsandbiodiversityloss,adaptationandreductionofemissions,aswellasimplementingtheDecadeofActiontowardsachievingthe2030AgendaforSustainableDevelopment,inparticularSustainableDevelopmentGoal8,withaviewtoadvancingajusttransitionforall;

d.continuetopursuecarbonneutralityattheILO,inlinewiththeUnitedNationstargettoreachcarbonneutralityby2020;and

e.reportbacktotheGoverningBodyontheimplementationoftheabove-mentionedpoints.

Thisreportcontributestothiseffortinthegarmentsector.Toaddressdecarbonization,wefirstneedtounderstandwhereandhowemissionsaregenerated.Thisreportprovidesanoverviewofhowemissionsarecalculatedacrossthesector,highlightingimplicationsandlimitations.Thereportconcludeswiththeimplicationsofthispatternofemissionsandthedecarbonizationneedsacrossthesector.

1.2.AboutOutcome4oftheDecentWorkintheGarmentSupplyChaininAsiaproject

ThisreportisoneoftheactivitiesunderOutcome4oftheDecentWorkintheGarmentSupplyChainsinAsia3project.Outcome4isfocusedonenhancingtheenvironmentalsustainabilityofthegarmentsupplychain.Outcome4activitiesincludeamixofknowledgecreation,knowledgediffusionandcapacity-buildingactivitiesforkeysectoractorswiththeaimofdevelopinganevidencebaseforhowenvironmentalsustainabilityandtheadoptionofmoresustainablepracticesinthetextileandgarmentsupplychainenhancedecentworkinthesector.

Throughoutthisreportweusetheterm“textileandgarmentsector”,aswearespecificallyinterestedingarmentproductionandthereforeinthetextilesmanufacturedasinputsintothesegarments.Textilesaremanufacturedforotherpurposesincludingfurniture,automotiveaccessoriesandhouseholddecoration,andwhiletheenvironmentalimpactsoftheproductionofthesetextilesmightbesimilartotextilesproducedforgarments,thesetextilesarenotthefocusofourworkinthisproject.

TheDecentWorkintheGarmentSupplyChainsinAsiaprojectisaregionalprojectwithcoverageofallcountriesacrosstheAsianregion,butactivitiesfocusonfourtargetcountries:Bangladesh,Cambodia,IndonesiaandVietNam.

Outcome4’sactivitiesaredividedintofourareas,whichareoutlinedinFigure1.

3ThisprojectisfundedbytheSwedishInternationalDevelopmentCooperationAgency(Sida)

、Figure1.FouroutputareasofOutcome4:EnhancedenvironmentalsustainabilityinthegarmentsectorinAsia

OUTCOME4:Industrystakeholderscanmoreeffectivelyapplyknowledgeandtoolstopromoteenvironmentalsustainabilityacrossthesector.

Output4.1

Gaps/weaknessesin

nationalenvironmentalregulatitonidentifiedinselectedcountriesandcountry-levelgood

practicesdeveloped(selectedcountries).

Output4.2

Knowledgeoneco

innovationandgreener

productioninthegarmentindustrydeveloped.

Output4.3

Industry-relevant

guidanceandsupport

providedtohelpmanufac-turersunderstandand

applyenvironmentanddecentworkprinciplesintheworkplace(andhelpinformfutureadvisoryandcompliancetoolsfortheindustry).

Output4.4

JustTransitionguidanceforthegarmentsectordeveloped,including

analysisandoptionsforfutureprioritiesand

activities.

ThisreportispartofactivitiesunderOutput4.4:“JustTransitionguidanceforthegarmentsectordeveloped,includinganalysisandoptionsforfutureprioritiesandactivities).”

SeveralactivitiesaretobeidentifiedoverthreeyearsaspartofOutput4.4,thisreportrepresentsthefirstoutputunderOutput4.4,presentingananalysisofcarbonemissionsacrossthesectorsoastounderstandthedimensionsofthejusttransitionneededforthesectorastheworldworkstowardsimplementationoftheParisAgreementandthe2030SustainableDevelopmentGoals.

1.3.Method

Thisreportisbasedondesk-topreviewofexistingcarbonemissionsaccountingreportsandmethodologies.Understandinghowcarbonemissionsaccrueoverthehighlyglobalizedandcomplexsupplychainsofthetextileandgarmentsectorisalsoacomplexandresource-intensiveactivity.Thereareafewfoundationalstudiesthathaveaccomplishedthismeasurementofemissionsacrossthesector(eachwithsomelimitations).InreviewingthesestudieswithaspecificfocusonthegeographyofemissionsinAsia,thereporthighlightswheretheimpactsofdecarbonizationwillbefelt;whereandinwhatsupplychainactivitiesemploymentimpactswillaccrue;andwhereshouldbethefocusofjusttransitionplanning.

1.4.Structureofthisreport

Thisreportisdividedintofoursections.Section1includesthisintroductionandmethodsection,andalsothefollowingbackgroundcontextonthewiderenvironmentalimpactsofthetextileandgarmentsector.Section2examinesindetailthecarbonemissionsinthesectorandidentifieswhichactivitiesinthesupplychainarethemostcarbon-intensive.Section3summarizesthetwomainmethodologiesforgreenhousegas(GHG)accounting–lifecycleassessmentandGHGaccounting.Section4presentsconclusionsandimplicationsofthisworkfortheDecentWorkintheGarmentSupplyChainsinAsiaprojectandthewidertextileandgarmentsector.

11、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia12

1.5.Backgroundcontext–environmentalimpactsofthetextileandgarmentsupplychain

Asiaaccountsforsome60percentofglobalexportsofgarments,textilesandfootwear.Theindustryhasrapidlygrownoverthepasttwodecades,employingmorethan40millionworkers,themajorityinmanycountriesbeingwomen(Sharpe2017).Environmentalimpactsareconcentratedatcertainpointsinthesupplychain,particularlyinfourareas:

、theweaving,dyeingandfinishingprocessesintextilemanufacturing;

、energyusethroughoutthesupplychain,butconcentratedintextilemanufacturingandtoalesserextentingarmentassembly;

、textilewasteassociatedwithgarmentassembly;and

、thetransportemissionsthroughoutthesupplychainasmaterialsandthenfinalproductsareshippedglobally.

Themostsignificantimpactshoweverarewithinthefirsttwoareas,withthemainimpactsbeingonuseintensityofwaterresources,chemicaluse(includingtoxicchemicals),wastewaterdischargesandlackoftreatmentprocesses,aswellasenergyuseandthecarbonintensityofelectricity.

Textilemanufacturingisverywater-andchemical-intensive.Thegrowthandsustainabilityofthesectorishighlydependentonhowresourcesaremanaged.Thetextileindustryingeneralhasanenormouswaterfootprintrangingfromagriculturalwaterconsumptionforcottonfarming,towaterconsumptionintextileprinting,dyeingandfinishing.Thesectorisoneofthelargestusersoffreshwaterintheworld,consuminganestimated79billioncubicmetersoffreshwaterannuallyacrosstheentirevaluechain(UnitedKingdom2019).Astextileproductionislocatedinsomecountriesthatalreadyhaveinsecurewatersuppliers,watercrisesareforecastinanumberoftextileproducingcountries.

Thesectorisalsoresponsibleforseverewaterpollutionbydischarginglargevolumesofwastewatercontaininghazardoussubstancesintoriversandwatercourseswithoutappropriatetreatment.Itisreportedthat20percentofindustrialwaterpollutiongloballyisattributabletothedyeingandtreatmentoftextiles(EMF2017).

Thecarbonfootprintfromthesectorisalsosignificantaswillbefurtherexaminedinthisreport.Asnotedabove,thesectoraccountsfor6–8percentoftotalglobalemissions(Niinimaki2020).In2015thisequatedtoemissionsof1.7billiontonnesofcarbondioxide(UnitedKingdom2019),whichismorethanallinternationalflightsandmaritimeshippingcombined(Sumner2019).Thenumbersarenotsurprisinggiventhefactthatover60percentoftextilesareusedintheapparelindustry,andalargeproportionofapparelmanufacturingoccursinChinaandIndia.Indiainparticularreliesheavilyonhardcoalandnaturalgasforelectricityandheatproduction,sharplyincreasingthecarbonfootprintofeachapparelproduct.Encouragingenergyefficiencyandswitchingtorenewableenergysources,suchassolar,hydroorwindpower,cansignificantlychangeemissionsandimprovethesustainabilityoftextileproduction.Moreover,theincreaseoffastfashionhasstimulateddemandforfast,cheapandlow-qualitygoods.Boththegrowingvolumeofgarmentproductionandhowthesegarmentsareusedanddisposedofthathaveresultedinincreasingclimatechangeimpactsstemmingfromthegarmentsector.Between2005to2016,theclimateimpactofvariousproductionstagesintheapparelsectorincreasedby35percentandisprojectedtocontinuetoincreaseunderabusiness-as-usualscenario(Quantis2018).

13、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia14

2.Carbonemissionsinthe

textileandgarmentsector

2.1.Distributionofemissionsacrossthevaluechain

Itischallengingtoquantifythedistributionofcarbonemissionsacrossthevaluechain,asitisdependentonthespecificproductandmaterials,aswellastheemissionsintensityofthecountryofproduction(WRI2019).Thefollowingsectionsummarizesthefindingsfromstudiesthathaveanalysedcarbonemissionsinthesector.Itisimportanttonotethatthestudiesvaryinmethod,scopeandlocation,sothereisalackofconsensusamongresults.

However,theoverallfindingshighlightthatitistheproductionofyarnandtextilesandtheusephasethathavethelargestshareofemissions,withasmallershareofemissionsintheproductionofrawmaterials,assembly,distributionanddisposal.

2.1.1.Textileandgarmentproduction

Weareawareofonlyonestudythathasattemptedtomeasureemissionsacrossthegarmentsectorglobally.The2018studybyQuantisfoundthelargestshareofemissionsarefromthedyeingandfinishingprocesses(36percent),followedbyyarnpreparation(28percent),fibreproduction(15percent)andfabricpreparation(12percent).Thisstudyfoundthatassemblywasonlyresponsiblefor7percentofemissions,anddistributionanddisposalatend-of-lifefornegligibleamounts(Quantis2018).Thatstudydidnotincludetheusephaseortransporttothecustomerbecauseofthedifficultyofanalysingthevariabilityinconsumerbehaviour(Quantis2018).

TheseresultsareconsistentwithaSwedishstudybasedonemissionsfromsixtypesofgarments,whichfoundwettreatment(dyeingandfinishingprocesses)accountedforthelargestportionofemissions(23.5percent),followedbyfibreproduction(16.3percent),confectioning(cuttingandsewing)(15.6percent)andfabricproduction(14.1percent)(Sandinetal.2019).Acomparisonoftheresultsofthesetwostudiesispresentedinfigure2.TheSwedishstudyassumedbestavailabletechnologieswereusedinthetextilemanufacturingprocesses,whichisnotthecaseinrealityandlikelyleadstounaccountedemissionsinthegarmentproductionprocess.

15、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia、Reducingthefootprint?HowtoassesscarbonemissionsinthegarmentsectorinAsia16

、Figure2.Comparisonofthedistributionofemissionsinthegarmentsectorvaluechainbetweentwokeystudies

Quantis,2018

Sandinetal.,2019

28%12%

—1%

uYarnproductionuFabricproductionuWettreatment/dyeing&finishing

uDistribution&retailuUsephaseaEndoflife

16%10%14%24%16%