服装工艺英语

第3页共5页D．中式服装刮浆

smearingunderarmseamallowance中式服装抬裉缉缝剪眼刀。抬裉缝剪口

notchingunderarmseamallowance

中式服装抬裉缉缝剪眼刀。划绗缝线

markingquiltingline划出绗棉间隔标记。绗棉

quilting按绗棉标记机缉或手工绗缝。挢钮袢

slip-stitchingbuttonloops

钮袢边折光挢缝。盘花钮

makingChinesefrog用挢好的钮袢条按花型盘成各种钮扣。钉钮袢

sewingbuttonloop

钮袢钉上门里襟钮位。钉领钩袢

attachinghookandeye

领钩袢钉在领口部位。E．西裤拔裆

blockingcrotch

将平面裤片拔烫成立体裤片。敷袋口牵条

attachingpocketstay

牵条布缝上袋口。扣烫膝盖绸

foldingandpressingkneekicker膝盖绸上下口毛边折转熨烫。挢膝盖绸

slip-stitchingkneekicker膝盖绸与前裤片挢牢。合侧缝

joiningsideseam裤头里面机缉缝合。合腰头

stitchingwaistbandandlining

腰头面里机缉缝合。翻腰头

turningoverwaistband腰头正面翻出。合串带袢

makingbeltloops串带袢机缉缝合。翻串带袢

turningoverbelt

串带袢正面翻出。绱拉链

attachingzipper

拉链装在门里襟上。翻门袢

turningoverflyfacing

门袢缉好后正面翻出。翻里襟

turningoverflyshield

里襟缉好后正面翻出。绱门袢

attachingflyfacing门袢装在裤门襟上。绱里襟

attachingflyshield里襟装在里襟片上。缉裥

stitchingpleat

前身裤腰口打裥机缉。绱腰头

sewingonwaistband

腰头装在裤腰上缝合。绱串带袢

tackingloopstowaistband

串带袢装在腰头上。绱雨水布

attachingtrousercurtain

雨水布装在裤腰里下口。合下裆缝

joininginseam

下裆缝机缉缝合。合前后缝

joiningcrotch前后裆缝机缉缝合。封小裆

bartackingfrontcrotch小裆开口机缉或手工封口。钩后裆缝

backstitchingbackcrotch后裆缝弯处用粗线倒钩针法缝扎。扣烫裤底

foldingandpressingcrotchreinforcement裤底外口毛边折转熨烫。绱大裤底

attachingbackcrotchstay

裤底装在后裆十字处缝合。花绷十字缝

cross-stitchingcrotch

裤裆十字缝分开绷牢。扣烫贴脚条

foldingandpressingheelstay裤脚口贴条扣转熨烫。绱贴脚条

attachingheelstay贴脚条装在裤脚口里沿边。叠卷脚

makingfrenchtackatcuff

裤脚翻边在侧缝下裆处缝牢。钉裤钩袢

attachinghookandeyetowaistband

裤钩袢钉在门里襟腰头上。F．其它合裙缝

joiningsideseam

裙缝机缉缝合。抽碎褶

gathering

用缝线抽缩成不定型的细褶。叠顺褶

formingandstitchingflatpleats缝叠一顺方向的裥子。合帽缝

joininghoodseams

帽缝机缉缝合。绱帽沿条

tapinghood

帽贴边缉上帽前面止口部位。合帽面里

attachingliningtohood

帽子面里机缉缝合。翻帽子

turninghoodtorightside帽子正面翻出。绱帽

attachinghoodtogarment帽子装在领窝上。拉线攀

makingFrenchtack用单线或多股线编成线带，在服装上起固定个别零件作用。针距

stitchsizespacing

指缝制过程中，每一针的距离。G．各类缝子包缝

overlockstitch

用包缝机将衣片毛边包光。明包缝

flatfelledseam

明包明缉的缝子。暗包缝

weltseam暗包明缉的缝子。来去缝

Frenchseam先缉正面窄缝，修剪毛梢后，再次在反面缉一道线。分缝

openseam

缝子缉好后，毛缝向两边分开。坐倒缝

plainseam缝子缉好后毛缝单边坐倒。坐缉缝

lapseam毛缝单边坐倒，正面压一道明线。分缉缝

doubletop-stitchedseam毛缝两边分开，两边各压一道明线。压缉线

top-stitchedlappedseam

上层缝口折光，摊平，正面压一道明线。漏落缝

self-boundseamwithsinkstitch

明线缉在分缝中或沿缉缝处。11分坐缉缝

top-stitchedopenseam把缉缝坐倒，缝口分开，在坐缝上压缉一道线。H．各类针法纳针

padstitch

纳驳头用的针法。环针

overcaststitch

毛缝口环光的针法。撩针

runningstitch牵条布撩在衬布的针法。寨针

bastestitch

临时固定的针法。暗挢针

blindstitch线迹缝在底边缝口内的针法。明挢针

slantstitch线迹略露在外面的针法。三角针

catchstitch

绷三角形针法。杨树花针

featherstitch

杨树花形针法。倒钩针

backstitch倒钩形的针法。拱针

prickstitch

用于手工拱缝的针法。扳针

diagonalslipstitch止口毛缝与衬布扳牢的针法。叠针

fasteningstitch

面里毛缝对齐扎牢的针法。缝针

handplainstitch针距相等的手缝针法。绗针

quilting棉服装手工绗棉的针法。锁针

buttonholestitch

手工锁眼的针法。倒回针

backstitch缝纫开始与终止时加固的针法。打套结

bartack手针或机打套结。贯针

fastenslipstitch用于缝份折光后对接的针法，能直观解决斜纱部位的缝合。一般用于西服领串口部位。合肩缝

joiningshoulderseam肩缝机缉缝合。分烫肩缝pressingopenshoulderseam

肩缝缉缝分开熨烫。叠肩缝

slip-stitchingshoulderseam

肩缝缝头与衬扎牢。做垫肩

makingshoulderpad

用布和棉花等做成垫肩。装垫肩

settingshoulderpad垫肩装在袖窿肩头部位。倒钩领窝

back-stitchingneckline

沿领窝用倒钩针法缝扎。拼领衬

joiningcollarinterlining

领衬拼缝机缉缝合或粘合搭拼。拼领里

applyinginterliningtocollar领里拼缝机缉缝合。缉领里

top-stitchingundercollar机缉领里。归拔领里

blockingundercollar领里归拔熨烫。归拔领面

blockingtopcollar

领面归拔熨烫。敷领面

attachingundercollartotopcollar领面敷上领里。合领子

joiningundercollarandtopcollar领面、里机缉缝合。翻领子

turningovercollar领子正面翻出。做领舌

makingcollarbandends做中山服底领探出的里襟。包底领

stitchingcollarband

中山服底领包转机缉。绱领子

sewingcollaronanddown领子装上领窝。分烫绱领缝

pressingopencollarseam

绱领缉缝分开熨烫。分烫领串口

slip-stitchinggorgeseam领串口缉缝分开熨烫。叠领串口

slip-stitchinggorgeseam领串口缝与绱领缝扎牢。包领面

turningovertopcollarseamallowancesandcatch-stitchingit西装、大衣领面外口包转，用三角针与领面绷牢。上下领缝合

attachingbandtocollar

中山服或衬衫领上下结合。压烫领脚

pressingcollar装领完毕后，将前后领圈放平用熨斗压烫绱领缝子部位。归拔偏袖

blockingsleeve

偏袖部位，归拔熨烫。合袖缝

joiningsleeveseam

袖缝机缉缝合。分烫袖缝

pressingopensleeveseam袖缝缉缝分开熨烫。挢袖叉

slip-stitchingsleeveslit袖叉边与袖口贴边挢牢。叠袖里缝

matchingandstitchingsleeveliningseamallowance

袖子面、里缉缝对齐扎牢。翻袖子

turningoversleeve

袖子正面翻出，即缝袖山头吃势。收袖山

easingsleevecap收缩袖山松度或缝吃头。绱袖

settinginsleeve

袖子装在袖窿上。挢袖窿

slip-stitchingsleeveliningtogarmentlining挢袖窿里子。压烫袖窿

pressingarmhole装袖完毕，将袖窿按圆形放平（分段）用熨斗压烫绱袖缝子部分。滚袖窿

bindingarmhole用滚条将袖窿毛边包光。挢领钩

attachinghooktocollarband

底领领钩开口处用手工挢牢。挢领下口

slip-stitchingcollartogarment领里下口与大身挢牢。叠暗门襟

slip-stitchingfacing暗门襟眼距间用暗针缝牢。挢底边

blindstitchinghem底边与大身挢牢。女毛呢服装合刀背缝

stitchingprincessline

刀背缝机缉缝合。烫刀背缝

pressingprincessline

刀背缝缉缝坐倒或分开熨烫。定眼位

markingbuttonposition

划准扣眼位置。滚扣眼

boundingbuttonhole用滚眼料把扣眼毛边包光。开扣眼

cuttingbuttonhole

扣眼剪开。滚挂面

biasbindingfacing挂面里口毛边用滚条包光。合领面

joiningtopcollar

领面拼缝机缉缝合（合领里与此同）做袋爿

makingweltpocket袋爿缝扣转挢上里子。做袋

makingpocket做各种袋。绱袋

attachingpockettogarment

口袋装在袋位上。翻小袢

turningovertab

小袢正面翻出。绱袖袢

attachingsleevetab袖袢装在袖口上规定的部位。合腰带

stitchingwaistbandandlining

腰带机缉缝合。翻腰带

turningoverwaistband

腰带正面翻出。坐烫里子缝

pressingliningseamrollingtounderside里子缉缝坐倒熨烫。合大身面里

stitchinggarmentandliningtogether大身面里机缉缝合。翻里子

turningoverlining

面、里正面翻出。敷里子

attachingliningtogarment里子敷上大身。挢扣眼

slip-stitchingbuttonhole扣眼毛边折光挢牢。衬衫角薄膜定位

positioningcollarstay

领角薄膜在领衬上定位。热缩领面

pressingtopcollarforpreshrinking

领面防缩熨烫。粘翻领

fusinginterlining

领衬与领面三边沿口上浆粘合。压领角

pressingcollerpoint

上领翻出后领角热定型。夹翻领

attachingcollertoband