橄榄油的骗局及其鉴别手法

TheScamOfOliveOil,AndItsAntidote橄榄油的骗局及其鉴别手法Here’sthehardtruth:theoliveoilinyourpantry,theoneyouboughtforitshealthbenefitsandforsomesliveroftheseductiveMediterraneanlifestyle,ismostlikelyascam.丝迷人的地中海情调而购置的橄榄油，有可能是一个骗局。Ascam,meaningitprobablycontainslessactualoliveoilthanyou’deverimagine.Ascam,meaningit’slikelybeenmixedwithcolorantsandotherlessexpensiveoilslikesunflower-seedoil.Ascam,meaningyoureallyhavenotbeengettingwhatyoupaidfor.着色剂和相对更廉价的食用油，如葵花子油。也就是说，你花了冤枉钱。Therealityisthatthiskindoffraudulentactivityhasbeengoingonforcenturies,anditisn’tlikelytochangedramaticallyanytimesoon.NotinItaly,orSpain,orGreece,orevenrighthereintheUS.It’sugly,andunfortunate.Therearemany(many)multi-nationalcommercialforcesatplay,andalmostasmanyhot-buttonissuesthatcrossindustrylines,suchastruthinlabeling(atopicthatwinetradeorganizationsliketheNapaValleyVintnershavetakenupinearnest),laxgovernmentaloversight,andunderfundedorcorruptfoodinspectionagencies.〔很多〕多国商业力气在起作用，并涉及几乎同样多的跨越行业敏感议题，比方标签中的真相〔[NapaValleyVinters]等葡萄酒贸易机构已开头认真应付这个问题、松懈的政府监管，资金缺乏或腐败的食品检验机构。It’sanongoingbattlethateachofusparticipatesin,everytimewestandinfrontoftheoliveoilsectionatourlocalgrocerystore.Sothat’swhereIwenttoreviewtheoptions;itwasn’tascientificstudy,butitreplicatestherealityofwhatweseeeverytimeweshop.都会看到的现实。areoilsin clearbottlesandcoloredbottles;coloredbottlesprotecttheintegrityoftheoilbetter,especiallyifwhat’sinsidethebottlesisinfact100%oliveoil(thoughitprobablyisn ’t).You’llalsoseewordsandphraseslike ”thatdon’tactuallymeananything;cold-pressed,forexample,referstothetimewhenoilwasmadeusinghydraulicpressesandtherewasadistinctionbetweenthefirst(cold)pressandthesecond(hot)pressbutthatprocessisoutdated.You’llseevariousstatementsofgeographicorigins,suchasSpainorGreeceorItaly;thatmaybetrue,butmorelikelytheoilwasgrownsomeplacewithlessexpensiveproductioncoststhenshippedtoanothercountry and bottled there. (It’s the bottling location that somehow品质，特别是当瓶内所含为100%橄榄油的时候〔虽然很有可能不是如此。你〔第一遍〔其次两个步骤，但这一工艺早已过时。你也会看到标签上的各种原产地，如西〔不知出于何种缘由，“原产地”标示上的地点规定应为灌装地点。It’sasystemlargelystrangledwithfraud,fromthelabelsontheoutsideofthebottletotheoilthat’sontheinside,andwe’veallbeenaffectedbyitatonephaseoranother.这是一个充满骗局的体系，从瓶身标签到瓶内所装，我们迟早会受到它的影响。Here’sonestepyoucantaketoimproveyourchancesofpurchasingrealoliveoilthatactuallyiswhatitsaysitis:turnthebottlearoundandreadthebacklabel.You’llseeanexpirationdate(usuallytwoyearsafteranoilwasbottled)butwhatyou’relookingforinparticularistheharvestdate;thefurtherawaythetwo-yeardateis,thefreshertheoilis.Onlyonebottle—from CaliforniaOlive Ranch –onthefive shelvesof oliveoils inmysupermarketindicatedtheharvestdate,however.签。你会看到一个保质期〔一般为灌装两年之后的日期，但你要找的其实是收一种橄榄油标明白收获日期——来自加州橄榄牧场〔CaliforniaOliveRanch〕的产品。Here’stheevenbetterstepyoucantake:seekoutstoresthatsellauthenticoliveoilfromdrums,andtastetheoilfirst.IliveinAtlanta,GeorgiaandmysourceistheE.48thStreetMarketinDunwoody,ownedbyCharlieAugellowhoresearchesanitem’soriginbeforebringingitintothestore.TheoilissuppliedbyJoanandRogerArndt,localsandfriendsofAugello,fromtheirsmallolivegroveinUmbria.我住在乔治亚州亚特兰大，我的橄榄油来源是邓伍迪的E.48thStreetMarket商店，老板查理·奥杰洛〔CharlieAugello〕在进货前都会弄清楚橄榄油的原产地。这些橄榄油来自奥杰洛的朋友、当地人琼和罗杰·阿恩特〔Joan&Roger，产自他们在翁布里亚〔a〕的小橄榄树林。TheArndt/Augellorelationshipisthekindofpersonalconnectionfewofusarelikelytohave,butthebenefitsofthoserelationshipsareavailabletoinformedconsumers.YoumaynothaveheardyetofMarco Oreggia’sFlosOleiguidestotheextravirginoliveoils–it’swritteninItalianandtranslatedtoEnglish,theupdatededitionfor2023ishisfifth,anditreviewstheolivegrowingsectorin47countriesincludingunexpectedproducersfromNewZealandandJapantoSouthAfrica,Nepal,andBrazil.Thethickbookisn’tjusta“Who’sWho”;ratherit’sa“Thisisserious,people.”供精明的消费者参考。你可能还未听说过马可洛·奥莱亚〔MacroOreggia〕的《FlosOlei》特级初榨橄榄油指南，它由意大利语写就并翻译成英文，2023年更至第五版，并且评审了47个国家的橄榄树种植产业，包括西兰、日本、是一本正经的。hiswork–beganresearchingandwritingaboutoliveoilin1995.Inthelastfiveyears,he’sseeingmorenew,small,andoftenyoungoilproducerswhoaregoingbacktoworld”torecovertheirparents’orgrandparents’estate,whilealsotryingtoupdateproductionmethodsandachievetopquality.Despitetheoddsagainstthem,Oreggiabelievesthesenewersmallproducersexportmarketsandbyreachinginformedconsumerswhorecognizethevalueofashortproductionchain.奥莱亚是一名记者，他于1995年开头就橄榄油产业进展调查和报道，由于工作而常年受到人身骚扰。过去五年中，他看到越来越多初出江湖、规模有限、往往同时也试图更生产方式并获得顶级品质。尽管成功的天平并不偏向他们那一找到“忠实”的分销商，同时向精明的消费者群体——那些深知短生产链价值所在的消费者——伸出橄榄枝。Informedconsumerscanbuyoilslikethesefrompurveyorswithatransparent,rigorousselectionprocessthatwinsyourconfidence,sincetheyessentiallytraveltheworldtotasteandchooseoilsonyourbehalf.Zingerman’sDelicatessen in Ann Arbor, Michigan, for example, carries a range ofwell-consideredoils.They’veidentifiedMarinaColonna’sPeranzanaoil,fromherestateintheMoliseregionofItaly,astheir ”kindoftree;itsoilispowerful,richandgrassy,withanundertoneofrosemary.AsimpletastetestbetweenPeranzanaandanysupermarketbrandwilldemonstrateimmediatelyhowdifferentthetwokindsofoil,andthetwokindsofproducers,canbe.Zingerman’sDelicatessen橄榄油。他们已经将玛丽娜·科隆纳〔MarinaColonna〕的Peranzana作为他们的镇店品牌，该油产自她在意大利莫利塞地区的庄园。科隆纳将Peranzana描述为一种“总是大方，总是赐予”的树；它的油浓烈而富有青草香，带一点迷迭香的底蕴。只要在Peranzana和任何超市品牌的橄榄油之间做殊。foroliveoilthat’sauthenticandreputable.Butthepricegoestowardkeepingthoseproducersauthenticandre