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目录TOC\o"1-3"\h\z\t"样式1,1"01课CottonGrowing棉花种植 102课CottonPropertiesandUses棉纤维特征和用途 204课Wool羊毛 505课StructureandPropertiesofWool羊毛纤维结构和性能 706课Silk丝绸 1007课Flax亚麻 1309课Rayon人造丝 1612课YARNS 1913课
纱线结构和织物外观关系 2021课精纺和粗纺 2225课络纱 2327课整经 2633课织机 3440课蓬勃发展非织造布 4349课染色 48
第一课CottonGrowing棉花种植Cottonistheworld'smostwidelyusedfiber.Itspopularitystemsfrombothitsrelativeeaseofproductionanditsapplicabilitytoawidevarietyoftextileproducts.Thepriceofcottonyarn,however,isstronglydependentuponthecostoflabor,sothatintheindustrializednations,wherelaborisexpensive,cottonyarnsmayberelativelyhighpriced.棉花是世界上使用最广泛纤维。它流行源于它生产及其在纺织产品广泛适用性相对轻易。棉纱价格,然而,强烈地依赖于劳动力成本,所以,在工业化国家,那里劳动力昂贵,棉纱可能相对较高价格。Untilrelativelyrecenttimes,however,cottonwasnotaswidelyusedaswoolandlinen.Thiswasbecauseitwaseasiertospinwoolorflaxintoyambecauseoftheirgreaterlength.Inaddition,cottonfibershavetobeseparatedfromtheseedstowhichtheycling.Thisprocedurewasverytediousandtime-consumingwhendonebyhand.Earlymachinerycouldbeusedononlythelongeststaplecotton.Solaborcoststendedtobeveryhigh.直到最近,然而,棉花是没有广泛用作羊毛和亚麻布。这是因为它轻易被毛或亚麻纺成纱因为其更大长度。另外,棉纤维要从种子中分离出来,他们依靠。这个过程是非常繁琐和费时,手工做。早期机器能够用在只有长纤维棉花。所以劳动力成本会很高。Theinventionofthesaw-typecottonginmadepossibletheexploitationoftheshortstaplefiber,whichthrivedintheCarolinasandVirginiaoftheUnitedStates.Thedramaticincreaseinproductivity,coupledwiththelowcostoflaborinthesouthernUnitedStates,gavecottonacontinuallyexpandingportionoftheworldtextilemarket.Increasingmechanizationoffiberandyarnproductionhelpedkeepthecostofcottongoodslow.The,developmentofthetextilemachineryenlargedtheproductionbase.锯片式轧棉机创造使可能短纤维开发,兴盛于美国北卡罗莱纳州和弗吉尼亚州。生产率急剧增加,加上在美国南部人工成本低,给棉不停扩大在全球纺织市场部。机械化程度提升,纤维和纱线生产使棉花成本低商品。纺织机械发展,扩大了生产基地。Cottoncultivationrequireswarmclimateswithahighlevelofmoistureorirrigation.Thegrowingseasonisfromsixtosevenmonthslong.Duringthisperiodtheseedssproutandgrow,producingawhiteblossominabout100days.Theblossomproducesaseedpod,whichmaturesduringthenexttwomonths.Whenthepodbursts,thecottonfibersarereadyforpicking.棉花种植需要温暖气候和水分或浇灌高水平。生长季节是从六到七个月。这一时期种子发芽生长,在大约100天,产生白色花。当荚破裂,棉纤维是采摘。Beforeyammanufacture,cottonisgraded,sorted,andblendedtoinsureuniformyamquality.Cottonisgradedonthebasisofcolor,staplelength,fineness,andfreedomfromforeignmatter.IntheUnitedStates,cottonsaredividedintogradesaccordingtolengthofstaple,uniformity,strength,color,cleannessandflexibility.ThesearecomparedwithastandardsuppliedbytheUnitedStatesDepartmentofAgriculture.Thestandardprovides6gradesaboveand6gradesbelowtheMiddlinggrade.Themostcommongradesare:山药生产之前,棉花分级,分类,和混合均匀纱线质量确保。棉花是彩色,依据梯度纤维长度,细度,和外来物质自由。在美国,棉花分依照纤维均匀性,强度,颜色,长度为等级,清洁和灵活性。这些都是由美国农业部提供一个标准比较。本标准要求了6级以上,6级以下中等。最常见等级:(1)Strictgoodmiddling.(1)严格上级。(2)Goodmiddling.(2)上级。(3)Strictmiddling.(3)严格中等。(4)Middling.(4)中。(5)Strictlowmiddling(5)严格低中等(6)Lowmiddling.(6)低中等。(7)Strictgoodordinary.(7)严格好普通。Thecottonfibermaybefrom0.3to5.5cmlong.Underthemicroscopeitappearsasaribbonlikestructurethatistwistedatirregularintervalsalongitslength.Thetwists,calledconvolutions,increasethefiber-to-fiberfrictionnecessarytosecureastrongspunyarn.Thefiberrangesincolorfromayellowishtopurewhite,andmaybeverylustrous.However,mostcottondull.棉纤维可从0.3到5.5厘米长。在显微镜下看起来是一个带状结构,沿其长度不规则时间间隔扭曲。曲波折折,称为卷积,增加纤维间摩擦力要取得一个强有力纱。从浅黄色到纯白色纤维范围,并能够很有光泽。然而,大多数棉花迟钝。Across-sectionalviewrevealsthatthefiberiskidney-shapedwithcentralhollowcoreknownasthelumen.Thelumenprovidesachannelfornutrientswhiletheplantisgrowing.Thefiberconsistsofanoutershell,orcuticle,whichsurroundstheprimarywall.Theprimarywall,inturn,coversthesecondarywallsurroundingthelumen.Thecuticleisathin,hardshellwhichprotectsthefiberfrombruisinganddamageduringgrowth.Inuseasatextilefiber,thecuticleprovidesabrasionresistancetocotton.管腔提供养分通道而植物生长。纤维由外壳,或角质层,围绕初生壁。反过来,包含初生壁,管腔周围次生壁。角质层是薄,坚硬外壳保护纤维生长过程中破碎和损伤。在用作纺织纤维,角质层提供了耐磨抗棉。第二课CottonPropertiesandUses棉纤维特征和用途Arelativelyhighlevelofmoistureabsorptionandgoodwickingpropertieshelpmakecottononeofthemorecomfortablefibers.Becauseofthehydroxylgroupsinthecellulose,cottonhasahighattractionforwater.Aswaterentersthefiber,cottonswellsanditscrosssectionbecomesmorerounded.Thehighaffinityformoistureandtheabilitytoswellwhenwetallowcottontoabsorbaboutone-fourthofitsweightinwater.Thismeansthatinhotweatherperspirationfromthebodywillbeabsorbedincottonfabrics,transportedalongtheyarnstotheoutersurfaceoftheclothandevaporatedintotheair.Thus,thebodywillbeaidedinmaintainingitstemperature.吸湿性和良好吸湿排汗性能使棉纤维一个更舒适一个比较高水平。因为在纤维素羟基基团,棉花对水有很强吸引力。当水进入纤维棉,膨胀,其截面变得更圆。水分和膨胀时湿让棉花吸收水重量约四分之一高亲和力能力。这意味着,在酷热天气里,身体汗会吸收棉织品,沿运纱布外表面和蒸发到空气中。所以,身体会帮助维持其温度。Unfortunately,thehydrophilicnatureofcottonmakesitsusceptibletowater-bornestains.Water-solublecolorantssuchasthoseincoffeeorgrapejuicewillpenetratethefiberalongwiththewater;whenthewaterevaporates,thecolorantistrappedinthefiber.Perhapsthemajordisadvantagetocottongoodsistheirtendencytowrinkleandthedifficultyofremovingwrinkles.Therigidityofcottonfiberreducestheabilityofyarnstoresistwrinkling.Whenthefibersarebenttoanewconfiguration,thehydrogenbondswhichholdthecellulosechainstogetherarerupturedandthemoleculesslideinordertominimizethestresswithinthefiber.Thehydrogenbondsreforminthenewpositions,sothatwhenthecrushingforceisremovedthefibersstayinthenewpositions.Itistheruptureandreformationofthehydrogenbondsthathelpstomaintainwrinkles,sothatcottongoodsmustbeironed.不幸是,棉花亲水性使得它轻易受到水渍。如在咖啡或葡萄汁水溶性色素会渗透纤维伴随水;当水分蒸发,着色剂是困在纤维。可能主要缺点,棉织品是他们倾向,皱纹和去除皱纹困难。棉纤维刚度降低纱线抗起皱能力。当纤维弯曲一个新配置,氢债券持有纤维素链在一起破裂和分子滑动以降低纤维中应力。在新位置氢键改革,所以当破碎力去除纤维保持在新位置。这是氢键,有利于保持皱纹断裂和改革,使棉织品要熨。Cottonisamoderatelystrongfiberwithgoodabrasionresistanceandgooddimensionalstability.Itisresistanttotheacids,alkalies,andorganicsolventsnormallyavailabletoconsumers.Butsinceitisanaturalmaterial,itissubjecttoattackbyinsects,moldsandfungus.Mostprominentisthetendencyforcottontomildewifallowedtoremaindamp.棉花是具备良好耐磨性和尺寸稳定性好,中等强度纤维。这是抵抗酸,碱和有机溶剂,通常提供给消费者。但因为它是一个天然物质,它是受攻击昆虫,霉菌和真菌。最突出是棉花霉烂倾向,假如允许存在潮湿。Cottonresistssunlightandheatwell,althoughdirectexposuretoconstantstrongsunlightwillcauseyellowingandeventualdegradationofthefiber.Yellowingmayalsooccurwhencottongoodsaredriedingasdryers.Thecolorchangeistheresultofachemicalreactionbetweencelluloseandoxygenornitrogenoxidesinthehotairinthedryer.Cottonswillretaintheirwhitenesslongerwhenline-driedordriedintheelectricdryer.棉花抗太阳光和热,即使直接暴露于恒定强烈阳光会引发黄最终降解纤维。变黄时也可能出现在气干燥器干燥棉织品。颜色改变是一个化学反应纤维素和氧或氮氧化物之间在热空气中干燥结果。棉花将保留其白度较长时,线干或在电干燥器中干燥。Ofmajorinterestisthefactthatcottonyarnisstrongerwhenwetthanwhendry.Thispropertyisaconsequenceofthemacro-andmicro-structuralfeaturesofthefiber.Aswaterisabsorbed,thefiberswellsanditscrosssectionbecomesmorerounded.Usuallytheabsorptionofsuchalargeamountofforeignmaterialwouldcauseahighdegreeofinternalstressandleadtoweakeningofthefiber.Incotton,however,theabsorptionofwatercausesadecreaseintheinternalstresses.Thus,withlessinternalstressestoovercome,theswollenfiberbecomesstronger.Atthesametime,theswollenfiberswithintheyarnspressuponeachothermorestrongly.Theinternalfrictionstrengthenstheyarns.Inaddition,theabsorbedwateractsasaninternallubricantwhichimpartsahigherlevelofflexibilitytothefibers.Thisaccountsforthefactthatcottongarmentsaremoreeasilyironedwhendamp.Cottonfabricsaresusceptibletoshrinkageuponlaundering.主要感兴趣是事实,棉纱时干时湿比。此属性宏观和微观结构特征纤维结果。当水被吸收,纤维膨胀,其截面变得更圆。通常这种大量外来物质吸收会造成内部应力较高,造成纤维弱化。然而,棉花,水吸收造成内部应力降低。所以,降低内部应力来克服,肿胀纤维变得更强。同时,在纱线溶胀纤维按对彼此更强烈。内部摩擦增强纱线。另外,所吸收水作为一个内部润滑剂,赋予纤维较高水平灵活性。这说明棉花衣服更轻易熨潮湿时。纯棉织物易收缩对洗钱。Perhapsmorethananyotherfiber,cottonsatisfiestherequirementsofapparel,homefurnishings,recreational,andindustrialuses.Itprovidesfabricsthatarestrong,lightweight,pliable,easilydried,andreadilylaundered.Inapparel,cottonprovidesgarmentsthatarecomfortable,readilydriedinbright,long-lastingcolors,andeasytocarefor.Themajordrawbacksareapropensityforcottonyamstoshrinkandforcottonclothtowrinkle.Shrinkagemaybecontrolledbytheapplicationofshrink-resistantfinishes.Durable-presspropertiesmaybeimpartedbychemicaltreatmentorbyblendingcottonwithmorewrinkle-resistantfibers,suchaspolyester.可能比任何其余纤维,棉满足服装,家居家俱,休闲要求,和工业用途。它提供了强大,面料轻薄,柔软,易干燥,易清洗。在服装,棉提供服装,舒适,轻易干燥,在明亮,持久色彩,轻易照料。主要缺点是一个棉纱和棉布收缩起皱倾向。收缩能够由应用程序控制防缩整理。免烫性能能够经过化学处理或由棉纤维混纺传授更多抗皱,如涤纶。Inhomefurnishings,cottonservesindurable,general-servicefabrics.Althoughtheymaylacktheformalappearanceofmaterialsmadefromotherfibers,cottongoodsprovideacomfortable,homeyenvironment.Cottonfabricshavebeenthemainstayofbedlinensandtowelsfordecades,becausetheyarecomfortable,durable,andmoisture-absorbent.Polyester/cottonblendsprovidethemodernconsumerwithno-ironsheetsandpillowcasesthatretainacrisp,freshfeel.在居家摆设,耐用是棉花,织物通常服务。即使他们可能缺乏来自其余纤维材料形式出现,棉织品提供一个舒适,温馨环境。棉织物一直是几十年来床单和毛巾支柱,因为他们是舒适,耐用,和吸湿剂。涤/棉混纺织物提供没有铁床单和枕套,保持一个清楚当代消费,新鲜感觉。Forrecreationaluse,cottonhastraditionallybeenusedfortentingandcampinggear,boatsails,tennisshoesandsportswear.Cottonisparticularlywell-suitedfortent.Atentfabricmustbeableto"breath",sothattheoccupantsarenotsmotheredintheirowncarbondioxide.Furthermore,exchangeofairwiththeoutsideatmospherereducesthehumiditywithinthetentandkeepsitfrombecomingstuffy.Fabricswovenfromcottoncanbeopenenoughtoprovidegoodairpermeabilityforcomfort.Tentsshouldalsoshedwater,whenwetbyrain,cottonyarnsswell,reducingtheintersticesbetweentheyarnsandresistingthepenetrationofwater.Today,however,heavycanvasgearisbeingsupplantedbylight-weightnylonintentingequipment.用于娱乐用途,棉花已被用于帐篷和野营装备,船帆,运动鞋和运动服。棉花是尤其适合帐篷。一个帐篷织物必须能够“呼吸”,让居住者不被自己二氧化碳。另外,与外界空气交换降低湿度在帐篷和使它变得闷。机织物棉能够打开足够舒适,提供良好透气性。帐篷也流下水,当被雨水打湿,棉纱膨胀,降低纱线和抗水渗透之间间隙。今天,然而,沉重帆布齿轮被取代轻质尼龙检测设备。Cottoncord,twineandropesareusedinindustrytobind,hold,andlashallkindsofthings,frombalestoboats.Cottonyarnsareusedtoreinforcebeltsondrivemotorsandinworkclothing.棉绳,绳和绳行业中使用绑定,持有,鞭笞和各种各样东西,从包船。棉纱是用来加强对驱动电机和工作服带。第四课Wool羊毛Theearlyhistoryofwoolislostinantiquity.Sheepskin,includingthehair,wasprobablyusedlongbeforeitwasdiscoveredthatthefiberscouldbespunintoyarnsorevenfeltedintofabric.Thereisnoevidencetosupportthetheorythatwoolwasthefirstfibertobeprocessedintofabric,butitseemscertainthat,asapartoftheskin,woolwasusedforcoveringandprotectionbyprehistoricpeopleslongbeforeyarnsandfabricsweremade.羊毛早期历史失传了。羊皮,包含头发,可能很久以前发觉纤维可纺成纱线或织成织物毡。没有证据支持,羊毛被加工成织物第一光纤理论,但似乎必定是,作为皮肤一部分,羊毛被用于覆盖和保护史前人类早在纱线和织物进行了。TheearliestfragmentsofwoolfabrichavebeenfoundinEgypt,probablybecauseofthepreservingqualitiesoftheclimate.Thesehavebeendatedfrom4000to3500BC.TheearliestexampleofwoolfabricfoundinEuropehasbeendatedabout1500BC;itwasunearthedinarcheologicaldigsinGermany.Danishsiteshaveyieldedexcellentfragmentsofearlywoolfabricsdatedabout1300to1000BC.Thesefabricsareroughandcoarseandcontainconsiderablewildsheephair.毛织物最早碎片已经被发觉在埃及,可能是因为保鲜品质气候。这些已经从公元前4000到公元前3500。最早羊毛织物发觉在欧洲已经于约公元前1500;这是出土考古发掘,在德国。丹麦网站已经取得了优良片段早期羊毛织物约公元前1300至公元前10。这些织物粗糙,含有大量野生绵羊毛。Woolisanaturalfiberofanimalorigin.Thoughvegetablefiberswereprobablythefirsttobeusedforspinningandweavingintocloth,animalfibersintheformofskinsweretheearliesttypeofclothingwornbyman.羊毛是来自于动物天然纤维。尽管植物纤维可能被用于纺纱和织布第一,在动物毛皮纤维最早人穿服装类型。Thereareindicationsthat,asearlyastheseventhcenturyBC,peoplebegantosellandbuywoolengoods.Thesupplyofwoolavailabletotheworldeveryyearamountstoabout5000millionpounds.Afterscouring,thisisreducedtoabout3000millionpoundsofpurewool.Thewoolcropisinsufficienttomeettheworldneeds.Purewoolisoftenmixedwithothertypefibersandrecoveredwooltomeetthedemand.有迹象表明,早在公元前第七世纪,人们开始买卖毛织品。羊毛每年向世界供给量大约500千万磅。冲刷后,这是降低到大约300千万磅纯羊毛。羊毛产量不能满足世界需要。纯羊毛通常与其它纤维混合和再生毛满足需求。Thequalitiesofdifferentwoolsvarygreatly.ThemerinosheepofAustralia,SouthAmericaandSouthAfricaproduceveryfreeandsoftwool.Thequalityofwoolfromthesesourcesdependsupontheconditionsandheritageofthesheep.PortPhilipwoolisthefinestinAustraliaandisusedtoproducethehighestqualitywoolenandworstedfabrics.不一样品种羊毛在质量上存在较大差异。澳大利亚细毛羊,南美国和南非产生非常自由和柔软羊毛。从这些起源羊毛质量取决于羊喂养条件和品种。菲利普港羊毛是澳大利亚最好,被用于生产粗纺和精纺毛织物质量最高。WoolfromSouthAfricaisverywavywithagoodwhitecolorandisusedforgoodqualityworstedandwoolengoods.SouthAmericanwoolisusuallyoflowerqualitythanwoolfromAustraliaorSouthAfrica.MerinowoolhasbeensuccessfullyraisedinGermany,France,SpainandtheUnitedStatesandisofhighquality.南非产羊毛是一个好白色非常波浪和用于优质精纺呢绒。南美洲羊毛通常是低质量比从澳大利亚或南非羊毛。美利奴羊毛已在德国,成功地提升了法国,西班牙和美国是高质量。Toprovidethefreest-qualitywool,productionisscientificallycontrolled.Sheepareinoculatedagainstdisease,dippedinchemicalstoprotectthemagainstinsects,andunlessonrangeland,feddietdesignedtoproducehealthyanimals.提供最优质羊毛,生产科学控制。绵羊接种抵抗疾病,浸泡在化学物质来保护他们免受昆虫,除非在草地,设计生产出健康动物饲料。Woolcanbeshearedfromthelivinganimalorpulledfromthehideaftertheanimalhasbeenslaughteredforitsmeat.Shearedwooliscalledfleeceorclipwoolandisqualitytopulledwool,whichistakenfromthehidesofslaughteredsheepWoolconsideredsuperior剪羊毛能够从活动物或从隐藏拉后,动物被屠宰后肉。剪羊毛是羊毛或羊毛和质量夹毛被,这是从宰羊羊毛被认为是优越隐藏Shearingiscurrentlydoneveryrapidlywithpowershears.Agoodworkercancompletelyshearasheepinlessthanoneminute,sometimesasshortas20seconds.RecentdevelopmentsinAustraliahaveledtoaprocesscalledchemicalorbiologicalshearing.Theanimalisfedachemicalsimilartothatusedinthetreatmentofcancer,whichcausethehairtofalloutwithintwoweeks.Withinveryshorttimefollowingthelossofthehair,itstartstogrowagain,andthesheepsuffernodamage.Fibersobtainedinthiswayareslightlylongerthanthoseshearedfromtheanimal,andthereappearstobelessphysicaldamagetothefibers.剪切当前功率快速完成剪。一个好工人能够完全剪力在不到一分钟,一只羊,有时短为20秒。澳大利亚最近事态发展造成过程被称为化学或生物剪。动物喂食化学相同,用于癌症治疗,造成头发脱落两周内。头发损失后,在很短时间内,它又开始生长,和羊不受损害。以这种方式得到纤维比剪切从动物稍长,似乎有对纤维物理伤害少。Usuallyshearingisdoneonceayearintheearlyspring,andthefleeceisremovedinonepiece,rolled,packedintobags,andshippedtothenearestprocessingcenter.Pulledwoolisremovedfromthehidebyoneoftwomethods.Itmaybetreatedwithadepilatorythatloosensthefiberandpermitsittobepulledawayfromtheskinwithoutdamagingthehide,oritCanbeloosenedbytheactionofbacteriaontherootendofthefiber.Pulledwoolisusuallymixedwithfleeceorclipwoolbeforeprocessingintoyarnsandfabrics.通常剪切是一年做一次在早春,和羊毛是一块,删除卷,包装成袋,并运到最近加工中心。拔毛是由两种方法中一个从隐藏删除。它能够用脱毛,松开纤维和允许它被拉离皮肤无损伤隐藏处理,或者能够经过细菌对纤维根端动作放松。拔毛通常与羊毛或羊毛混合前夹加工成纱线和织物。Preliminarygradingofwoolfibersisdonewhiletheyarestillinthefleece,becausethisstepisimportantindeterminingcost.Factorsusedindeterminingthegradeofwoolincludefiberfinenessordiameterandlength,theageoftheanimal,thenaturalcolor,thebreedofthesheep,andtheconditionunderwhichtheanimallived.Aftergrading,fleecesareshippedtothemill,wheretheyarepreparedforfurtherprocessingintoyarnsandfabrics.初步羊毛纤维分级是还在羊毛做,因为这一步确定成本是很主要。用于测定棉纤维细度和品位原因包含直径和长度,年纪动物,自然色彩,羊品种,和情况下,动物生活。评分后,羊毛被运输到工厂,在那里他们准备深入加工成纱线和织物。Woolisattackedbyhotsulfuricacidanddecomposescompletely.mostothermineralacidsofallstrengths.Woolwilldissolveincausticsodasolutionsthatwouldhavelittleeffectoncotton.羊毛是由热硫酸攻击并完全分解。大多数其它不一样浓度无机酸。羊毛会溶解在烧碱处理方案,将对棉花影响不大。第五课StructureandPropertiesofWool羊毛纤维结构和性能Underthemicroscopicobservation,thelengthofthewoolfibershowsascalestructure.Thesizeofthescalevariesfromverysmalltocomparativelybroadandlarge.Asmanyas700scalesarefoundin1cmoffinewool,whereascoarsewoolmayhaveasfewas275percm.Finewooldoesnothaveasclearanddistinctscalesascoarsewool,buttheycanbeidentifiedunderhighmagnification.显微观察下,羊毛纤维长度显示了一个规模结构。规模大小从比较宽广和大很小改变。多达700尺度是羊毛1厘米,而粗毛可能为每厘米275少。细羊毛没有粗羊毛为清楚明确尺度,但他们能够在高放大倍数确实定。Acrosssectionofwoolshowsthreedistinctpartstothefiber.Theouterlayer,calledcuticle,iscomposedofthescales.Thesescalesaresomewhathornyandirregularinshape,andtheyoverlap,withthetoppointingtowardsthetipofthefiber;theyaresimilartofishscales.Themajorportionofthefiberisthecortex(composedofcorticalcells);thisextendstowardthecenterfromthecuticlelayer.Corticalcellsarelongandspindle-shapedandprovidefiberstrengthandelasticity.Thecortexaccountsforapproximately90percentofthefibermass.Inthecenterofthefiberisthemedulla.Thesizeofthemedullavariesandinfinefibersmaybeinvisible.Thisistheareathroughwhichfoodreachedthefiberduringgrowth,anditcontainspigmentthatgivescolortofibers.羊毛横截面显示三个不一样部分纤维。外层,称为角质层,由刻度。这些鳞片形状有点角质和不规则,和他们重合,与顶端指向尖端纤维;他们是类似鱼鳞。纤维主要部分是皮质(由皮层细胞);这延伸向角质层中心。皮质细胞长梭形和提供纤维强度和弹性。约百分之90纤维质皮层帐户。在光纤中心是髓质。延髓尺寸改变和细纤维可能是看不见。这是经过食品达成纤维在生长过程中区域,它包含颜料,使色纤维。Woolfibersvaryinlengthfrom3.8toabout38cm.Mostauthoritieshavedeterminedthatfinewoolsareusuallyfrom3.8to12.7cm;mediumwoolfrom6.4to15.2cm;andlong(coarse)woolsfrom12.7to38cm.羊毛纤维长度在3.8到38厘米不等。大多数当局已经确定,细羊毛通常从3.8到12.7厘米;中毛从6.4到15.2厘米;长(粗)从12.7到38厘米羊毛。Thewidthofwoolalsovariesconsiderably.FinefiberssuchasMerinohaveanaveragewidthofabout15to17microns;whereasmediumwoolaverages24to34micronsandcoarsewoolabout40microns.Somewoolfibersareexceptionallystiffandcoarse;thesearecalledkempandaverageabout70micronsindiameter.羊毛宽度也有很大差异。细纤维,如羊毛具备约15至17微米平均宽度;而介质羊毛平均为24至34微米和40微米粗羊毛。一些羊毛纤维非常僵硬和粗糙;这些都是所谓肯普和平均直径约70微米。Thewoolfibercrosssectionmaybenearlycircular,butmostwoolfiberstendtobeslightlyellipticalorovalinshape.Woolfibershaveanaturalcrimp,abuilt-inwaviness.Thecrimpincreasestheelasticityandelongationpropertiesofthefiberandalsoaidsinyarnmanufacturing.Itisthree-dimensionalincharacter;inotherwords,itnotonlymovesaboveandbelowacentralaxisbutalsomovestotherightandleftoftheaxis.羊毛纤维横截面可为近圆形,但大多数羊毛纤维往往形状略呈椭圆形或椭圆形。羊毛纤维具备天然卷曲,内置波纹。卷曲增加纤维弹性和延伸性,也有利于纱线制造。它是三维性质;换句话说,它不但将以上及中心轴下面也向右移动轴左。Thereissomelustertowoolfibers.Fineandmediumwooltendstohavemorelusterthanverycoarsefibers.Fiberswithahighdegreeoflusteraresilkyinappearance.有光泽毛纤维。细中羊毛往往比很粗纤维较多光泽。与光泽程度高纤维外观光滑。Thecolorofthenaturalwoolfiberdependsonthebreedofsheep.Mostwool,afterscouring,isayellowish-whiteorivorycolor.Somefibersmaybegray,black,tanorbrown.天然羊毛纤维颜色取决于羊品种。冲刷后,大多数毛,是淡黄色白色或象牙色。一些纤维可能是灰色,黑色,褐色或棕色。Thetenacityofwoolis1.0to1.7gramsperdenierwhendry;whenwet,itdropsto0.7to1.5g/d.Comparedwithmanyotherfibers,woolisweak,andthisweaknessrestrictsthekindsofyarnsandfabricconstructionsthatcanbeusedsatisfactorily.However,ifyarnsandfabricsofoptimumweightandtypeareproduced,theend-useproductwillgivecommendablewearandretainshapeandappearance.Fiberpropertiessuchasresiliency,elongation,andelasticrecoverycompensateforthelowstrength.羊毛强度是1至1.7克/否定干燥时;当湿,它下降到0.7至1.5克/天。与其余许多纤维相比,羊毛是弱,和这一弱点限制了纱线和织物结构,可满意种类。然而,假如生产最好重量和类型纱线和织物,最终使用产品会给值得称道磨损和保持形状和外观。如弹性纤维,拉伸性能,和弹性恢复赔偿低强度。Woolhasexcellentelasticityandextensibility.Atstandardconditionsthefiberwillextendbetween20and40percent.Itmayextendmorethan70percentwhenwet.Recoveryissuperior.Aftera2percentelongationthefiberhasanimmediateregainorrecoveryof99percent.Evenat10percentextension,ithasarecoveryofwellover50percent,whichishigherthanforanyotherfiberexceptnylon.羊毛纤维具备优良弹性和可扩展性。在标准条件下,将20和百分之40之间延伸纤维。它可能会超出百分之70时,湿。康复优于。百分之2伸长纤维具备立刻恢复或恢复后百分之99。即使在百分之10延伸,它具备超出百分之50回收,这比其余任何除了尼龙纤维。Theresiliencyofwoolisexceptionallygood.Itwillreadilyspringbackintoshapeaftercrushingorcreasing.However,throughtheapplicationofheat,moistureandpressure,durablecreasesorpleatscanbeputintowoolfabrics.Thiscreaseorpressretentionistheresultofmolecularadjustmentandtheformationofnewcross-linkagesinthepolymer.Besidesresistancetocrushingandwrinkling,theexcellentresilienceofwoolfibergivesthefabricitsloft,whichproducesopen,porousfabricswithgoodcoveringpower,orthick,warmfabricsthatarelightinweight.Woolisveryflexibleandpliable,soitcombineseaseofhandlingandcomfortwithgoodshaperetention.羊毛弹性非常好。它能够恢复原形粉碎后或压痕。然而,经过应用热,湿度和压力,耐用折痕或褶皱能够放在毛织物。这种折痕或按保留分子调整结果和聚合物中新交叉链接形成。除了抗破碎和起皱,羊毛纤维优良回弹性赋予织物产生阁楼,打开,多孔织物具备良好遮盖力,或厚,保暖面料,重量轻。羊毛是非常灵活,柔软,所以它结合操控性和舒适性具备良好保形性缓解。Thestandardmoistureregainofwoolis13.6to16.0percent.Undersaturationconditions,woolwillabsorbmorethan29percentofitsweightinmoisture.Thisabilitytoabsorbisresponsibleforthecomfortofwoolinhumid,coldatmospheres.Aspartofthemoistureabsorptionfunction,woolproducesorliberatesheat.However,aswetwoolbeginstodry,theevaporationcausesheattobeabsorbedbythefiber,and"chilling"maybeexperienced,thoughthechillingfactorissloweddownastheevaporationrateisreduced.Thepropertyofmoistureabsorptionanddesorptionpeculiartowoolandsimilarhairfibersiscalledhygroscopicbehavior.Woolacceptscolorsandfinisheseasilybecauseofitsmoistureabsorptionproperties.标准回潮率为13.6~百分之16羊毛。饱和条件下,毛将吸收更多水分比在其重量百分之29。这种吸收能力,负责羊毛在潮湿舒适,冷空气。作为吸湿功效部分,羊毛产生或释放热量。然而,作为湿羊毛开始干燥,蒸发引发烧被纤维吸收,和“冷”,可能是有经验,尽管严寒原因减缓蒸发率降低。吸湿和解吸羊毛和类似头发纤维特有性质称为吸湿行为。毛接收颜色和完成轻易因其吸湿性能。Despitetheabsorptionpropertiesofwool,ithasanunusualpropertyofexhibitinghydrophobiccharacteristics.Thatis,ittendstoshedliquideasilyandappearsnottoabsorbmoisture.Thecauseisacombinationoffactors:interfacialsurfacetension,uniformdistributionofpores,andlowbulkdensity.Thesemoisturepropertieshelpmakewoolverydesirableforuseinavarietyofsituationswheremoisturecanbeaproblemtocomfort.尽管羊毛吸收性能,它已表现出疏水特征一个独特性能。那是,它往往流液轻易出现不吸收水分。原因是多个原因结合:界面表面张力,孔隙分布均匀,与低密度。这些水分特征使羊毛非常理想使用在各种情况下,水分能够抚慰一个问题。Woolfibersarenotdimensionallystable.Thestructureofthefibercontributestoashrinkingandfeltingreactionduringprocessing,useandcare.Thisisdue,inpart,tothescalestructureofthefiber.Whensubjectedtoheat,moisture,andagitation,thescalestendtopulltogetherandmovetowardthefibertip.Thispropertyisnoticeableinyarnsandfabricsandisresponsibleforbothfeltingandrelaxationshrinkage.羊毛纤维没有尺寸稳定。纤维结构有利于收缩和缩反应在加工过程中,使用和保养。这是因为,在某种程度上,纤维鳞片结构。当受到热,湿度,和搅拌,天平倾向于一起拉向光纤尖。此属性是显著纱线和织物和负责毡缩和松弛收缩。第六课Silk丝绸Forapproximately3000yearsChinasuccessfullyheldthesecretofsilkandsericultureandheldavirtualmonopolyonthesilkindustry.AboutAD300Japanlearnedthesecretofraisingsilkwormsandreelingthefilamentsfromthecocoons.约30,中国成功举行了丝绸和养蚕秘密持在丝绸行业垄断。约公元3日本学习养蚕缫丝丝茧秘密。Throughouthistory,silkhasmaintainedapositionofgreatprestigeandisconsideredaluxuryfiber.Itisoftencalledthe"queenoffibers"Perhapsoneofthemostimportantcontributionssilkhasmadeinthehistoryoftextilesisthatitwasresponsibleforinvestigationintothepossibleproductionofman-madefibers.Scientistsobservedhowthesilkwormspunthefibersandbelievedthatpeoplecouldduplicatetheart.纵观历史,丝绸一直保持着巨大显赫地位,被认为是一个奢侈纤维。它通常被称为“纤维皇后”可能是最主要贡献之一丝绸纺织品历史是负责为人造纤维生产调查。科学家们观察到,蚕纺纤维和相信人们能够复制艺术。Silkisoneofthestrongestnaturalfibersusedincreatingtextileproducts.Ithasatenacityof2.4to5.1gramsperdenierwhendry.Wetstrengthisabout80to85percentofthedrystrength.Silkhasgoodelasticityandmoderateelongation,whenitisdry,theelongationvariesfrom10to25percent;whenwet,silkwillelongateasmuchas33to35percent.At2percentelongationthefiberhasa92percentelasticrecovery.丝绸是最强天然纤维用于制造纺织品。它有一个坚韧2.4到5.1克每否定干燥时。湿强度是约80至百分之85干强度。蚕丝具备良好弹性和适度延伸,当它是干燥,从10到25%伸长率改变;当湿,丝伸长多达33到百分之35。在百分之2伸长率下纤维具备百分之92弹性恢复。Silkhasmediumresiliency.Creaseswillhangoutrelativelywell,butnotsoquicklyorcompletelyasforwool.蚕丝具备介质弹性。折痕将比很好,但不太快或完全作为羊毛。Thedensityofspecificgravityofsilkiscitedas1.25to1.34gramspercubiccentimeter,dependingontheresourceused.Becauseofthenatureofsilk,itispossiblethatthedensityvariesamongfibersaswellasbetweenthevarioustypesofmothsthatformthefiber.Anothersourceofvariationmaybeduetomethodsusedindeterminingdensity.Inanycase,thedensityresultsintheformationoflightweightbutstrongfilaments,yarnsandfabrics.丝绸比重密度为1.25到1.34克每立方厘米,这取决于所用资源。因为丝绸性质,它是可能,密度不一样纤维以及飞蛾,形成各种纤维之间。另一个起源改变可能是因为在密度测定方法。在任何情况下,在轻而坚固细丝,形成纱线和织物密度结果。Silkhasarelativelyhighstandardmoistureregainof11percent.Atsaturationtheregainis25to35percent.
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