成衣大货检验

1、成衣大货检验成衣大货检验For the benefit of business and peoplePrepared By: Longu ChenDate: 22nd Sept,2005“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.28了解成衣生产流程了解成衣生产流程8了解线迹与缝型了解线迹与缝型8了解如何比较样品了解如何比较样品8了解尺寸测量了解尺寸

2、测量8了解成衣手工如何检查及疵点的描述了解成衣手工如何检查及疵点的描述培训培训目的目的“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.3“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BU

3、REAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.SUMMARY1.生产流程生产流程2.线迹与缝型线迹与缝型3.样品比较样品比较4.手工检验手工检验4生产流程生产流程“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.15机织成衣生产流程机织成衣生产流程“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bure

4、au Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.6分类分类面料购买面料购买裁剪裁剪拉布铺料拉布铺料“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.机织成衣生产流程机织成衣生产流程7打包打包车缝车缝

5、检验检验线头清理线头清理“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.机织成衣生产流程机织成衣生产流程8待运待运包装包装熨熨 烫烫包装包装 “BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT

6、 BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.机织成衣生产流程机织成衣生产流程9“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.针织成衣生产流程针织成衣生产流程10 水洗水洗 照灯检验照灯检验“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT D

7、ISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.针织成衣生产流程针织成衣生产流程缝盘缝盘织片织造织片织造11检验检验 包装包装大烫大烫“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.针织成衣生产流程针织成衣生产流程12线迹类型线迹类型“BURE

8、AU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.213线迹类型线迹类型8线迹线迹 stitch 缝纫机机针在每次刺过缝料时，由一根或多根缝线，自连、互缝纫机机针在每次刺过缝料时，由一根或多根缝线，自连、互连或交织在缝料上而形成的一个单元。连或交织在缝料上而形成的一个单元。 自连自连intralooping是缝纫时，机针缝线的一个线环穿入其缝线是缝纫时，机针缝线的一

9、个线环穿入其缝线本身形成的前面一个线环的连结方法；本身形成的前面一个线环的连结方法； 互连互连interlooping是缝纫时，先由弯针缝线穿入由机针刺过缝是缝纫时，先由弯针缝线穿入由机针刺过缝料后机针缝线所形成的线环，再由机针在缝料被送料后，再次料后机针缝线所形成的线环，再由机针在缝料被送料后，再次刺过缝料时穿人弯针缝线所形成的线环的连结方法；刺过缝料时穿人弯针缝线所形成的线环的连结方法； 交织交织interlacing是是缝纫时，梭线穿入机针刺过缝料后机针缝线缝纫时，梭线穿入机针刺过缝料后机针缝线所形成的线环的连结方法。所形成的线环的连结方法。14线迹类型线迹类型v 根据根据ISO/DIS

10、4915,线迹类型可以分为线迹类型可以分为6大类大类. Class 100: 单线链式线迹单线链式线迹 Class 200:手缝线迹手缝线迹 Class 300: 锁式线锁式线迹迹 Class 400: 多线链式线迹多线链式线迹 Class 500: 包边链式线迹包边链式线迹 Class 600: 复盖链式线迹（复盖绷缝线迹）复盖链式线迹（复盖绷缝线迹） “BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITA

11、S PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.15Class 100:单线链式线单线链式线 特点与用途特点与用途: 由单根针线穿过缝料自由单根针线穿过缝料自连形成的线迹连形成的线迹。 缝线正反两面外观不同缝线正反两面外观不同。 该种线迹容易从头至尾拆该种线迹容易从头至尾拆散散,故通常用于暂时性的故通常用于暂时性的假缝。假缝。16Class 200:手缝线迹手缝线迹 特点与用途特点与用途: 由单根缝线在布面上下穿梭形成缝线。原先由单根缝线在布面上下穿梭形成缝线。原先是手工缝线的主要形式是手工缝线的主要形式,现在也可以由缝纫机现在也可以由缝纫机完成。此种线迹适用于缝边。完成。此种线迹适用于缝边

12、。“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.17Class 300: 锁式线迹锁式线迹 特点与用途特点与用途: 由两个系统的缝线形成由两个系统的缝线形成.针所带的面线与摆梭上的底线针所带的面线与摆梭上的底线相互相互交织交织而成而成. 此种线迹不易扯开此种线迹不易扯开,所形成的缝线正反两面外观相同所形成的缝线正反两面外观相同,延延弹性小于链式线迹弹性

13、小于链式线迹.摆梭送布牙feed dog“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.18锁式线迹锁式线迹301示意图示意图“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU

14、VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.19Class 400: 双线链式线迹双线链式线迹 (多线链式线迹多线链式线迹) 特点与用途特点与用途: 通常由两个系统的缝线组成。通常由两个系统的缝线组成。由一根或多根缝针线和一根或多由一根或多根缝针线和一根或多根根弯针线互连形成的线迹弯针线互连形成的线迹。 缝线正反两面呈现不同的外观。缝线正反两面呈现不同的外观。 双线链式线迹常用于缝边、省缝双线链式线迹常用于缝边、省缝的缝合，裤子的后缝和侧缝，松的缝合，裤子的后缝和侧缝，松紧带等受拉伸较多，受力较强的紧带等受拉伸较多，受力较强的部位。部位。绷缝弯针“BUREAU VERITAS

15、 PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.20双线链式线迹双线链式线迹401示意图示意图“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.

16、21401 线迹线迹“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.22406 线迹线迹“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITT

17、EN CONSENT”.23407 线迹线迹“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.24Class 500: 包边链式线迹包边链式线迹 特点与用途特点与用途: 由若干根缝线相互循环串套在缝料边缘的线由若干根缝线相互循环串套在缝料边缘的线迹。根据组成线迹的缝线多少而称呼其名（迹。根据组成线迹的缝线多少而称呼其名（单线包缝、双线包缝单线包缝、双线包缝

18、六缝包缝）。六缝包缝）。 其特点是能使缝料的边缘被包住，起到防止其特点是能使缝料的边缘被包住，起到防止面料边缘脱散的作用。面料边缘脱散的作用。 当缝迹受拉伸时，面线、底线之间可以有一当缝迹受拉伸时，面线、底线之间可以有一定程度的相互转移，因而缝迹的弹性较好，定程度的相互转移，因而缝迹的弹性较好，故被广泛用于机织物的包边。三线包缝和四故被广泛用于机织物的包边。三线包缝和四线包缝为最常用的机织制品服装的包边。五线包缝为最常用的机织制品服装的包边。五线包缝和六线包缝又称为线包缝和六线包缝又称为“复合线迹复合线迹”，由，由一个双线包缝同三线包缝或四线包缝线迹组一个双线包缝同三线包缝或四线包缝线迹组合而

19、成。其最大特点是强力大，可同时进行合而成。其最大特点是强力大，可同时进行合缝和包缝，从而提高缝迹的密度和缝制的合缝和包缝，从而提高缝迹的密度和缝制的生产效率。生产效率。三、四线包缝机适用于弹性织物的包缝作业，五线包缝机适用于牛仔、帆布、皮革等织物的包边包缝作业。 包边弯针 “BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.25503 线迹线迹“BUREAU

20、 VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.26504 线迹线迹“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.27514

21、 线迹线迹“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.28516 线迹线迹“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CO

22、NSENT”.29Class 600:复盖链式线迹复盖链式线迹 特点与用途特点与用途: 通常由通常由3个系统缝线形成。个系统缝线形成。由两根以上针线和一根弯由两根以上针线和一根弯钩线相互穿套而成，有时在正面加上一根或二根装钩线相互穿套而成，有时在正面加上一根或二根装饰线，饰线，按曲折走向贯穿于正面全部线迹与下面互连按曲折走向贯穿于正面全部线迹与下面互连的线迹的线迹。 绷缝线迹的特点是强力大，拉伸性好，缝迹平整，绷缝线迹的特点是强力大，拉伸性好，缝迹平整，在某些场合（如拼接缝）也可起到防止织物边缘脱在某些场合（如拼接缝）也可起到防止织物边缘脱散的作用。散的作用。“BUREAU VERITAS P

23、ROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.30602 线迹线迹“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.31605 线迹线迹“BURE

24、AU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.32607 线迹线迹“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.33缝

25、型缝型:叠缝叠缝“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.34搭接缝搭接缝“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN C

26、ONSENT”.35包边缝包边缝“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.36平缝平缝 “BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WR

27、ITTEN CONSENT”.37线迹与缝型疵点线迹与缝型疵点 Broken stitches 断线断线Skipped stitches 跳针跳针Tight stitches 线迹过紧线迹过紧Needle chew 露珠露珠Loose stitches 线迹过松线迹过松Excessive stitches 多余线迹多余线迹Extra stitches 额外线迹额外线迹Staggering stitches or slanted stitches 线迹扭曲、歪斜线迹扭曲、歪斜Messy stitches or snarled stitches 线迹杂乱线迹杂乱Uneven stitch dens

28、ity 针密不匀针密不匀A line of needle hole 针孔针孔Run-off stitches 落坑线迹落坑线迹Needle damage 针损针损“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.38Feed dog mark 送布牙痕送布牙痕Thread fraying 缝线起毛缝线起毛Needle line 条花疵条花疵Uneven t

29、hread size 缝线条干不匀缝线条干不匀Insufficient seam allowance 缝份不足缝份不足Insecure thread 缝线不牢缝线不牢Seams -twisted 扭骨扭骨Seams not aligned at crossing seam 缝线对接偏离缝线对接偏离Seams-bowed or uneven 缝线弓起，不匀缝线弓起，不匀Open seam 缝线开口缝线开口Pleated seam 缝线起裥缝线起裥Puckering 起皱起皱Seam grin exposed 缝线露底缝线露底Seam slippage 缝线滑移缝线滑移“BUREAU VERITA

30、S PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.线迹与缝型疵点线迹与缝型疵点39样品比较样品比较“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT

31、”.340考查点考查点q与客供样比较与客供样比较客供样客供样 (Approved sample核可样核可样, color swatch色样色样, trim card辅料样辅料样, and comment sheets意见卡意见卡)q与规格要求比较与规格要求比较客户订单或规格明细客户订单或规格明细客户案卷或要求客户案卷或要求“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN C

32、ONSENT”.41vPacking 包装包装vStyle 款式款式vColor 颜色颜色vHand feel 手感手感vSewing thread 缝线缝线vStitches and seam 线迹与缝型线迹与缝型vAccessory 辅件辅件vLabel and hangtag 标签和吊卡标签和吊卡与客供样相比较与客供样相比较“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITT

33、EN CONSENT”.421.包装材料包装材料 胶袋胶袋, 考贝纸考贝纸, 干燥剂干燥剂, 纸板纸板, 大头针大头针, 夹子夹子,吊卡，衣架吊卡，衣架“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.包装检验包装检验43包装检验包装检验2. 折叠方式折叠方式 “BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Ver

34、itas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.44色差检验色差检验vAATCC(American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists ) 美国纺织化学师与印染师协会标准美国纺织化学师与印染师协会标准5negligible or no change无色变4-54slightly change轻微色变3-4noticeable change显而易见的色变 32-3considerable cha

35、nge相当程度的色变21-2drastic change 显著色变1“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.AATCC 灰卡灰卡45辅件辅件“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITH

36、OUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.46Jeans button Jeans button tack hookJeans rivet Jeans rivet tack loop辅件辅件“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.47辅件辅件Snap cap socket stud postOpen pr

37、ong socket stud“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.48Buckle hooks holders shoulder padsAdjuster Cord stopper patches belt adjuster辅件辅件“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 200

38、5 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.49Button Size纽扣规格纽扣规格1 lignes = 1/40 inchLignes1214161820212223mm7.68.910.211.412.713.314.014.6Lignes2427283032343640mm15.217.117.819.120.521.622.925.4辅件辅件“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 20

39、05 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.50“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.4手工检验手工检验51操作过程操作过程从上到下从上到下 .从左到右从左到右 .从正面到反面从正面到反面.从外边到里边从外边

40、到里边“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.52同时需要注意的有同时需要注意的有:1.颜色颜色 2.包装包装3.成衣外观成衣外观 a. 匀称b.清洁c.线迹与缝线 d.布面e.成衣内里4.刺绣刺绣 印花印花5.配件配件 “BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISC