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1、"Light, refined, learned and noble, harmonious and orderly, clear and logical, the cooking of France is, in some strange manner, intimately linked to the genius of her greatest men."轻逸,精确,博大而高贵,古老而和谐,明晰而富有逻辑,法式烹饪正是如此:它以某种奇妙的方式,与法国人最优秀的品质紧密相连。”A CUISINE CRISIS 烹饪危机1What could be more French
2、 than an outdoor market on a sunny Sunday morning The air is f川ed with vital scents from the herbs and fruits and vegetablespiled high in the greengrocers creative geometrics.还有什么事物比晴朗周日早晨的户外市场更具法国特色吗香草和水果的味道sent使空气充满了生机,蔬菜被菜贩堆摆pal出充满创意的几何形状 d'metrk。A whiff of the Atlantic blows off the oysters
3、on the fishmongers' bed of ice. Wild game-hare, venison, boar-hangs from the butchers' racks sausagesand cheeses are laid out to savor and smell.大西洋的气息吹拂着鱼商'fmg冰床上的牡蛎st。野兔、鹿肉'vens()n、野猪 都挂列在屠夫的 架子上,香肠和奶酪则陈摆出来以供品尝和玩味。2This, you think, is the very essenceof France, until you read those
4、 little signs that tell you the tomatoes (which are really pretty tasteless) come from Moroccan hothouses,the grapes from South Africa, kiwis from Chile and the haricot from Kenya.You can't be sure where that boar bit the dust.在你读到那些标识之前,你一定会认为这就是法国的精华所在。而正是那些标识会告诉你(极其无味的)土豆来自摩洛哥m'rkn的热屋,葡萄酒
5、grep来自南非,彳弥猴桃'kiw来自智利'tili,而扁豆'hrk(t)来则自肯尼亚kinj。3The congenial quaintness(n.) of the street market, in fact, draws directly on globalization. Emile Zola once called "the belly of Paris", the rich, ripe, smelly center of the wholesale food business, long since moved out of downt
6、own(a./n.) to a cargo hub() near Qrly airport.事实上,街市上那些彼此相宜的kn'dinl稀奇古怪的事kwentns是全球化 g lob()'zein的结果。这个富裕的、成熟的rap、难闻的被埃米尔.左拉称为 巴黎的肚子”的大型食品 批发'hlsel中心是很久,以前搬出市中心到奥利机场附近 的。Quite literally, that is now where a lot of French cooking begins-and, increasingly; where the era of great French cui
7、sine as something truly unique and exclusive to France is slowly coming to an end.毫不夸张的说,这里是现在很多法国烹饪的开始的地方,而且渐渐地伟大的法国烹饪时代(一些真正独具特色并专属法国的事物)就要缓慢的结束了。4For generations; the French have prided themselves on theirdistinctiveness. Nothing has stood for France's sense oexceptionalism more famously than
8、 its cooking. Gallic talent; taste(n.) and techniques have been exported all over the world. And therein(adv.) lies ()part to the problem.好几代法国人都因为他们的 与众不同而感到骄傲。没有任何事物比这个国家的 烹饪更能代表它卓越的品质。高卢人的才华、 品味和技艺已经在全世界声名赫 赫。但是问题也随之而来。From the Napa Valley to the Thames and Tokyo; non-French cooks havecracked the
9、 codes of the best French cuisine. Meanwhile; what was mediocre elsewhere-albeit cheap and popular-has been imported. The result: Many tourists-as well as the French themselves-no longer see what's so special about French Cooking.从纳帕谷到东京和 泰晤士河temz,非法国裔的厨师已经 破解krk 了最精致的法 国菜的秘诀kdz。与此同时,其他地方一些 平庸的m
10、id'k烹饪,虽然l'bit便宜 又流行,最终还是 流入了法国。最终导致这样一种结果:包括法国人在内的许 多游客再也看不到何为法国的特色了。5The decline goes well beyond recent surveys that show growing complaints about mediocre quality and high prices-no small concern in a country where tourisme gastronomique(法语)earned 18 billion euros in 2002; a quarter of a
11、ll tourist revenues从最近的一项调查可以看出对于那些,马马虎虎的质量和昂贵价格的抱怨,而 饮食业实际的衰落不止于此。在这样一个2002年美食旅游收入达1800万欧元 'ju:rus,占其旅游收入'revnju将近四分之一的的国家来说,这并非小事。More and more restaurateurs say that government tax and economic policies are limiting their profits; and thereby hurting their capacity to invest and hire more
12、 staff.越来越多的餐馆老板表示,政府的税收和财政政策正在限制着他们的盈利,也 因此打击削弱了他们投资和雇佣更多员工的能力。They have becomeensnarled in the red tape(n.) for which France isinfamous-not to mention edicts from Brussels that affect everything from sales taxes to the bacteria in the Brie.他们被法国臭名昭着的 繁琐流程(脚)所束缚en'snal更不说那些干涉介入到从 营业税到布里奶酪中 细菌bk
13、'tr含量等每件事情中的欧洲 法令'idkt。6Not coincidentally, it was the French who taught the world that water has many very different, very marketable。tastes. At the annual agricultural fair(n.) in Paris this spring,visitors not only enjoyed sipping wines, but olive oils-one a little nutty(a.), another quit
14、efruity , some of them, one is tempted to say, just a littleimpudent.与此境况不一致的()ku,insi'dentli是,也正是法国人教会了全世界:水是可以有 许多不同的的口味,这个口味能卖个好价钱。这个春天每年一度的农展会上,到访者不仅 品尝了美酒而且享受了 橄榄'lv油,这些橄榄油一些是 坚果味(nut n.),大多数是水果味,还有一些,不得丕'tem(p)tid说味道有点冲('mpjd()nt a.粗 鲁的、无耻的)。Even table salt has its distinctions
15、, with fleur de sel(), the thin layer(n.) collected on the surface of salt basins in the Bordeaux region, now much appreciated. "France is one of those countries where people can leave the table full and still be talking about food," jokes chef Yannick Alleno, 35, who brought a new star to
16、 the restaurant of the Hotel Meurice this year. His favorite specialty: sea bass sewn with golden threads().甚至餐桌的盐也有不同的花样,盐之花fl: ”采集于一种采自波尔多b:'du地区盐池盆地表面的薄层'le,在此大受欢迎。法国是那些人们酒足饭饱离开餐桌之后仍然讨论食物的国家之一。"厨师ef雅尼克诺阿开玩笑说,他今年 35岁, 刚刚为克里斯酒店的餐厅带来了一颗新的等级之星。他最喜欢的特色菜是:金线鲸鱼bes o sewn(sn sew)7But the rea
17、l paradox of French cooking-in France, at least-is that artistic success often spells business disaster. Starred(a.) chefs often end up drowning in red ink as they try to maintain the high standards that made their names.然而法国饮食业真正的 悖论是,艺术的成功往往 意味着商业的灾难,至少在法 国是这样吧。星级st Q d的师们为了保持他们得以成名的高标准,一般都会入不 敷出。
18、8Consider the value-added taxes that were "harmonized".)" all over Europe duringthe 1990s. They benefit fast-food chains, since the tax on takeaway is only %percent, while they penalize sit-down restaurants, whether humble bistros or haute cuisine, which pay %.想想增值.税曾经在九十年代统一”了整个欧洲。它们
19、有益于快餐食物链,因为 外卖税只有;可它们害苦了 'pi:nlaz那些不能随便移动的传统餐馆,不论是 简 陋的'hmbl小酒馆'bistr还是高级餐厅的税率都高达 。When President Jacques Chirac ran for re-election in 2002, he promised to reduce the tax, but such is the nature of the new Europe that all 25 countries will have to approve the measure for it to take effe
20、ct-in 2006.希拉克总统2002年竞选连任时曾保证要降低税率,但要使这一措施2006年生效,必须得到欧盟所有25个成员国的同意。有什么办法呢,这就是新欧洲啊。The government is instituting other complicated tax breaks and stopgap measures in the meantime to try to calm the restive restaurateurs and in hopes of creating (a starred chef) Daguin is deeplyskeptical(a) ”If the F
21、rench were under the same fiscal regime(n.)as the United States, we'd be able to create twice as many jobs," he says.政府现在正实施其他一些复杂的减税措施和 权宜之计试图安抚焦躁不安的餐馆 老板rest()r't,并希望能借此创造宣多的就业机会。但是星级厨师达甘却对此 深表怀疑'skeptkl, “要是法国人可以享受美国的 财政'fsk()l政体制度re'im, 我们就能创造两倍的就业岗位了。9Strict labor laws
22、restricting hiring, firing and temp-work also figure in the equation."Our business is a succession()of high-stress times and quiet times," says Denis Meliet,a former rugby player and apassionate(a.)restaurateur from Toulouse另外,严格 限制雇工、裁员和招 临时工temp的劳动法也拖了后腿。“我们的 生意忙二蚱困二蚱_的,”来自 图卢兹tu:'lu
23、:z的德尼梅列说道。德尼曾经是 橄 榄球'rgb运.员,现在则 充满热情的扑在他的饭馆上。When it comes to employment, "the problem in France is that we have no flexibility whatsoever。. When we're busy it would be good if, like in England(), we could hire a couple of extra employees to help out." But the law makes that diffic
24、ult.当谈到就业问题时,他说:“法国的问题在于根本没有 灵活性fleks'blt。如果 在活多的时候能雇一些帮手来救急,就像在英国那样,那就好了。”但是法国 的法律很难允许这样做。10Even when government regulations appear specially formulated to support the culture of cuisine, they often "go astray". The EU's Common Agricultural Policy, for instance, is supposed to ben
25、efit small farmers, keep them on the land-and thus, you'd think, nurture the terroir that gives French cooking itssoul, and France much of its national identity.即便是一些看似专为扶持烹饪文化的政府规定,实施起来也往往事与愿违(误入歧途)'stre。例如,欧盟的共同农业政策本该看服于小农场主的利益,鼓励他 们坚守阵地,从而悉心 培育'nt赋予法国烹饪 灵魂和激发法国人民族认同感的 土地terwr。But acti
26、vist Brigitte Allain of the Confederation。Paysanne() a farmer herself,says the CAP, in fact, does just the reverse-favors quantity over quality. "In this system," she says, "farmers are merely providers of staples whose sole requirement(in order to receive generous EUsubsidie is to de
27、liver the goods according to the rules."但是,法国农民联合会knfed're()n的活动家布丽吉特阿兰认为,实际上,共 同农业政策适得其反,因为它看重的是数量而非质量。布丽吉特本人就是农 民。她认为,“在这样的体制下,农民只不过是主食'step()l的供应者,因为,(为了能得到欧盟慷慨的 补贴subsidy)他们唯一要做的只是按照规定 提交产品” 而那些规定对于质量和口味没有要求。"If our cuisine has prestige(n.)," says Allain, "it's be
28、cause we have chefs who are interested in good products. And we have good products because we still have a type of agriculture that we call peasant(n.农民)agriculture alongside() the factory farms. Notice I say 'still', because this agriculture may not last that long."“如果我们的烹饪能 享誉pre'
29、sti(d)全球,那是因为我们的厨师青睐优等货。我 们有优等货,因为除了 工厂农庄,我们仍然有一种我们称之为小农 'pez()nt农业的农业形式。但注意我说的仍然,因为这种农业可能维持 不了多久了。”1lAs France's great chefs worry about staying in the avant-garde, with their gold threads and miraculous meringues, many small farmers and restaurateurs seem to be fighting a rearguard action
30、just to survive.当法国出色的厨师在为 最前沿的,v' g q俎饪忧心,想着他们的金线和奇妙的m'rkjls蛋白酥m'r的时候,许多可怜的农民和餐馆老板正在竭尽全力为生存而 打拼('ri, g ° :dn.)o12The problems afflicting French cuisine are emblematic of those that plague the economy as a whole. Like French cuisine, the French economy still holds the occasional
31、 surprise: last week the government announced that economic growth for 2004 should be higher than expected.总的来说2造成('flkt v.)法式烹饪衰落的原因同样(a.,embl'mtk)也是造成(v.)法 国经济整体不振的原因。如同法式烹饪,法国经济仍时不时有惊人表现:上周 法国政府宣布2004年经济增长将超出预期。But the basic problems of bureaucracy, taxes and social reluctance() to change remain a burden for everyone. "At all levels-political,social, cultural or biological- cooking is at the forefront(n.) of the great choices that we have to make a
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