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1、As a boyin Lima,my grandfather told mea legend of theSpanishconquest of Peru. Atahualpa, emperor of the Inca, had been captured and killed. Pizarroand hisconquistadorshad grown rich, and talesof theirconquest and glory had reached Spain and were bringing new waves of Spaniards, hungry for gold and g

2、lory. They w ould go into towns and ask the Inca, "Where's another civilization we can conquer? Where's more gold?"小时候,我住在利马;爷爷给我讲了一个关于-西班牙征服秘鲁的传奇故事。印加帝国的末代 皇帝阿塔瓦尔帕,被抓住并处死。皮萨罗和征服者们变得富有起来,他们攻克秘鲁的传奇和赞颂传 到了西班牙,吸引了一批西班牙人来此淘金。他们去到镇子里,问印加人:“还有哪个文明没被攻 克?还有哪里有黄金?”And the Inca, out of venge

3、ance, told them, "Go to the Amazon. You'll find all the gold you want there. In fact, there is a city called Paititi - El Dorado in Spanish - made entirely of gold."而出于报复,印加人就告知他们:“去亚马逊,那里有挖不完的黄金”。事实上,那里有一个叫做帕依提提西班牙Ef Dorado的城市是由黄金建成的”。The Spanish set off into the jungle, but the few t

4、hat returncome backwith stories, stories of powerful shamans, of warriors with poisoned arrows, of trees so tall that they blotted out the sun, spiders that ate birds, snakes that swallowed men whole and a river that boiled.于是这些西班牙人起身前去那片丛林,结果只有少数人带着故事回来了,他们带回了关于壮大 的萨满巫师的故事,关于拿着毒箭的武士的故事,关于那里的树太高以至遮住

5、了阳光的故事, 关于 吃鸟的蜘蛛、能够吞下一整个人的大蛇,和一条沸腾的河流的故事。All this became a childhood memory. And years passed. I'm working on my PhD at SMU, trying to understand Peru's geothermal energy potential, when I remember this legend, and I began asking that question. Could the boiling river exist?所有这些都成了我的童年经历。连年过

6、去了,我到了南方为理公会大学( SMU)攻读博士学 位,当我试着了解秘鲁的地热能源潜力时,我想到了那个传奇,于是想到了一个问题。传奇中的那条沸腾的河流真的存在吗?I asked colleagues from universities, the government, oil, gas and mining companies, and the answer was a unanimous no. And this makes sense . You see, boiling rivers do exist in the world, but they're generallyasso

7、ciated withvolcanoes.You need a powerful heat source to produce such a large geothermal manifestation. And as you can see from the red dots here,whichare volcanoes, we don't have volcanoes in the Amazon, nor in most of Peru. So it follows : We should not expect to see a boiling river.我咨询了一些同僚,他们

8、来自各大高校,政府部门,石油、天然气和矿业公司,所有人的答案都是“不”。那个答案是有道理的。因为沸腾的河流的确存在,但一样是在火山旁。只有一个壮大的热源,才制造出如此大的地热现象。你看到的这些红点,它们代表火山, 而在亚马逊是没有火山的,秘鲁的大部份地域也没有火山。因此得出的结论为:这片区域看不到沸腾的河流。Geothermal energy is produced by heat from inside the earth.As a boy in Lima, my grandfather told me a legend of the Spanish conquest of Peru.Tel

9、ling this same story at a family dinner, my aunt tells me, "But no, Andr / s, I've been there. I've swum in that river."在一次家庭聚餐上我又讲了那个故事,然后我的阿姨告知我,“不,安德烈,我去过那,我在 那条河里游过泳”。Then my uncle jumps in. "No, Andr e s, she's not kiddingYou see, you can only swim in it after a very

10、heavy rain, and it's protected by a powerful shaman. Your aunt, she's friends with his wife."然后我叔叔也加入了讨论,”真的,安德烈,她没有开玩笑,只有在大雨事后,才能在里面游 泳,它被一名壮大的萨满巫师爱惜着,而你的阿姨,跟他的妻子是朋友”。You know, despite all my scientific skepticism , I found myself hiking into the jungle , guided by my aunt, over 700 ki

11、lometers away from the nearest volcanic center, and well, honestly, mentally preparingmyself tobehold the legendary "warm stream of the Amazon."尽管我作为科学家,对此表示疑心,仍是在我的阿姨率领下,踏上了那片丛林,那里距最近的火山口有700千米,坦白说,我已经做好了见证那条传奇的“亚马逊暖流”的心理预备了。But then . I heard something, a low surge that got louder and lo

12、uder as we came closer. It sounded like ocean waves constantly crashing, and as we got closer, I saw smoke, vapor, coming up through the trees. And then, I saw this.可是,紧接着,我听到一些声响,随着咱们慢慢走进,一股低涌-变得愈来愈响彻。就像海浪不断的冲击一样,而当咱们走近时,我看到烟雾和蒸汽从树林中冒出。不久,我看到了那个。I immediately grabbed for my thermometer, and the ave

13、rage temperatures in the river were 86 degrees C. This is not quite the 100-degree C boiling but definitely close enough. The river flowed hot andfast. I followed it upriver and was led by, actually, the shaman's apprentice to the most sacred site on the river. And this is what's bizarre - I

14、t starts off as a cold stream. And here, at this site, is the home of the Yacumama, mother of the waters, a giant serpent spirit who births hot and cold water. And here we find a hot spring, mixing with cold stream water underneath her protective motherly jaws and thus bringing their legends to life

15、.我立马拿起了温度计,测量到这条河流的平均温度为86 Co尽管这并无达到100 c的沸点,但也很接近了。这条高温河水流湍急。在这位萨满大师徒弟的率领下,我沿河而上,去往这条河最神圣的地址。奇异的情形发生了,这条河的起点是冷流。而那个地址,是亚库马马的故乡,亚库马马是 河之母,是制造冷热水的 庞大的蛇灵。而在那个地址,咱们找到了一处热泉,同受她爱惜的河口 下的冷流混合在一路,将这些传奇变成现实。The next morning, I woke up and -第二天早上,当我醒来的时候I asked for tea. I was handed a mug, a tea bag and, well

16、, pointed towards the river. To my surprise, the water was clean and had a pleasant taste, which is a little weird for geothermal systems.我说想喝杯茶。于是有人递给我一个马克杯,一个茶包,然后,指着那条河。让我惊讶的是, 河水是如此的清澈,喝起来也很可口,这关于地热系统来讲是有点异样的。What was amazing is that the locals had always known about this place, and that I was b

17、y no means the first outsider to see it. It was just part of their everyday life. They drink its water. They take in its vapor. They cook with it, clean with it, even make their medicines with it.更神奇的一点是,本地人似乎一直都明白有这么个地址, 而我也绝不是第一个觉察此地的外来人。这些都是他们的家常便饭。他们饮用河里的水;享用这些蒸汽;用河水烹饪;清洁, 乃至用 这些河水来制药I met the s

18、haman, and he seemed like an extension of the river and his jungle. He asked for my intentions and listened carefully. Then, to my tremendous relief - I was freaking out, to be honest with you - a smile began to snake across his face, and he just laughed.我见到了萨满大师, 似乎他也成了这条河和丛林的一部份。他询问我的来意,用心倾听。不 久,我

19、便感到压力减轻了 -老实告知你,我那时可吓坏了 -他嘴角微微上扬,他笑了I had received the shaman's blessing to study the river, on the condition that after I take the water samples and analyze them in my lab, wherever I was in the world, that I pour the waters back into the ground so that, as the shaman said, the waters could fin

20、d their way back home.我对这条河的研究取得了萨满大师的祝愿,他只有一点要求,那即是待我取样并带回实验室分 析后,不管我活着界的哪个角落,我要把这些水倒回地上,萨满大师说,如此这些水便能回到河流 里。Despite his skepticism, he was still expecting to see the boiling river.He promised to pour the water samples back into the ground after analyzing them in his lab.He was freaking out when th

21、e shaman asked about his intentions.He immediately grabbed his thermometer to measure the river ' s temperature.I've been back every year since that first visit in 2020, and the fieldworkhas been exhilarating, demanding and at times dangerous. One story was even featured in National Geograph

22、ic Magazine. I was trapped on a smallrock about the size of a sheet of paper in sandals and board shorts, inbetween an 80 degree C river and a hot spring that, well, looked like this, close to boiling. And on top of that, it was Amazon rain forest. Pshh, pouring rain, couldn't see a thing. The t

23、emperature differential made it all white. It was a whiteout. Intense.2020年的勘测后,我每一年都会归去,我的勘测结果甚是喜人,有些时候也很有些危险和挑战。我的故事乃至被刊登到了国家地理这本杂志上。我被困在了和一张纸一样大小的石头上,穿着凉鞋和运动短裤,置身于 80 c的河水 和接近沸点的温泉中。不仅如此,那仍是在亚马逊雨林。那是滂沱大雨,什么也看不见。温差使得周围的一切看起来都是白色的。局势很紧张。Now, after years of work, I'll soon be submitting my geoph

24、ysical and geochemical studies for publication. And I'd like to share, today, with all of you here, on the TED stage, for the first time, some of these discoveries.此刻,通过连年的研究,我即将发表关于地球物理和化学的论文。今天站在TED的舞台上,我想和大伙儿一路分享,这也是我第一次揭露其中的一些觉察。Well, first off, it's not a legend. Surprise! 第一,这并非是一个传奇。意

25、想不到吧!When I first startedthe research, thesatellite imagery was toolow-resolution to be meaningful. There were just no good maps. Thanks to the support of the Google Earth team, I now have this. Not only that, the indigenous name of the river, Shanay-timpishka, "boiled with the heat of the sun,

26、" indicates that I'm not the first to wonder why the river boils, and showing that humanity has always sought to explain the world around us.在我最初开始这项研究的时候,有关的卫星图像像素很低,几乎没什么用。那时就没什么高质量的地图。多亏了谷歌地球那个团队,此刻我有了那个。不仅如此,这条河的本名Shanay-timpishka ,"由太阳烧开的河”说明我并非是第一个对这条河沸腾感到好奇的人,也说明了人类一直以来都尝试着去说明咱们

27、生活的世界。So why does the river boil?为何这条河会沸腾呢?It actually took me three years to get that footage.这些图像是我花了 三年时刻搜集来的。Fault-fed hot springs. As we have hot blood running through our veins and arteries, so, too, the earth has hot water running through its cracks and these arteries come to the surface, the

28、se earth arteries, weW get ge0thermal manifestations: fumaroles, hot springs and in our case, the boiling river.地质断层滋长温泉。正如人类体内的血管和动脉里流动着热血一样,地球的裂痕和断层里也流淌着热水。那些在地球表面的”动脉“, 确实是地热表现:喷气孔,温泉,正是咱们那个地址 的沸腾河。What's truly incredible, though, is the scale of this place. Next time you cross the road, thin

29、k about this. The river flows wider than a two-lane road along most of its path. It flows hot for kilometers. Truly impressive. T here are thermal pools larger than this TED stage, and that waterfall that you see there is six meters tall - and all with near-boiling water.可是,真正难以置信的是这条河的规模之大。下次当你过马路的

30、时候,不妨如此想一想。 这条河大部份流经地的宽度超过双车道的马路。而热水流经长度为千米。真是叹为观止。有些热 泉比TED的舞台还要大,而你看到的那个瀑布, 其实有6米高-全数都接近沸点的河水。We mapped the temperatures along the river, and this was by far the most demanding part of the fieldwork. And the results were justawesome. Sorry - the geoscientist in me coming out. And it showed this am

31、azing trend. You see, the river starts off cold. It then heats up, cools back down, heats up, cools back down, heats up again, and then has this beautiful decay curve until it smashes into this cold river.咱们依照河水的温度制作地图,这项工作也是目前最为困难的部份。出来的结果真是了不起。抱歉,我是个地理科学迷这事儿暴露了。咱们的结论展现出了一种趋势。你看,这条河的河口是冷水。接下来慢慢升温,再

32、降温,再升,又降, 再次升温,于是有了这些可爱的衰减曲线, 直到最后奔腾进冰凉的河水中。Now, I understand not all of you are geothermal scientists, so to put it in more everyday terms: Everyone loves coffee. Yes? Good. Your regular cup of coffee, 54 degrees C, an extra-hot one, well, , put in coffee shop terms, the boiling river plots like th

33、is. There you have your hot coffee. Here you have your extra-hot coffee, and you can see that there's a bit point there where the river is still hotter than even the extra-hot coffee. And these are average water temperatures. We took these in the dry season to ensure the purest geothermal temper

34、atures.我明白在座的有些并非是研究地热科学的,因此,用日常生活来举个例子:人人都爱咖啡。对吗? 一杯一般的咖啡是54 C,专门烫的咖啡是60 Co因此用咖啡的例子来讲,沸腾的河水看起来是如此的。 这是一杯热咖啡。 这是加热的咖啡,能够看到那个地址有一个尖尖的地址,那确实是这条河要比专门烫的咖啡还要烫。这些是水的平均温度。这些都是在干燥的季节搜集的样品,为了保证取得最纯粹的地热温度。But there's a magic number here that's not being shown, and that number is 47 degrees C, because

35、that's where things start to hurt, and I know this from very personal experience. Above that temperature, youdon't want to get in that water. You need to be careful. It can be deadly.但有一个神奇的数字并无显示出来, 那确实是47 C,因为这是有害的临界点。 我明白这一 点是因为我自己有过如此的经历。 超过47 c以后,没有人会想站在那里。 你得额外警惕。因为 这可能是致命的。I've se

36、en all sorts of animals fall in, and what's shocking to me, is the process is pretty much the same. So they fall in and the first thing to go are the eyes. Eyes, apparently, cook very quickly. They turn this milky-white color. The stream is carrying them. They're trying to swim out, but thei

37、r meat is cooking on the bone because it's so hot. So they're losing power, losing power, until finally they get to a point where hot water goes into their mouths and they cook from the inside out.我看到各类各样的动物掉入河里,让我感到惊讶的是,整个进程几乎都类似的。当它们掉进河里时,第一个受到损害的即是眼睛。眼睛显然不用煮多久,便成了奶白色。河流把它们卷走。尽 管它们试着游上岸,可是

38、他们正在被由外到内烹饪着,因为温度实在太高了。于是,它们渐渐地失去了力气,最后热水冲进了嘴里,从内外外烹饪的进程开始了。What ' s truly incredible, though, is the scale of this place.We took these in the dry season to ensure the purest geothermal temperatures.这些都是在干燥的季节搜集的样品,为了保证取得最纯粹的地热温度。t indicates that humanity has always sought to explain the world a

39、round us. 也说明了人类一直以来都尝试着去说明咱们生活的世界。A bit sadistic, aren't we? Jeez. Leave them marinating for a little longer. What's, again, amazing are these temperatures. They're similar to things that I've seen on volcanoes all over the world and even super-volcanoes likeYellowstone.有点让人难过,不是吗?天

40、呐。让它们在腌制一会儿。另一个神奇的地址即是温度。这些河的温度和我所见过的火山差不多,乃至类似于黄石的超级火山。But here's the thing: the data is showing that the boiling river exists independent of volcanism. It's neither magmatic or volcanic in origin, and again, over 700 kilometers away from the nearest volcanic center.但故意思的是:依照数据,这条沸腾河 和火山并非是

41、共存关系。这和磁场或火山都没关系, 再强调一次,最近的火山离那个地址也有700千米远。How can a boiling river exist like this? I've asked geothermal experts and volcanologists for years, and I'm still unable to find another non-volcanic geothermal system of this magnitude . It's unique. It's special on a global scale . So, st

42、ill - how does it work? Where do we get this heat? There's still more research to be done to better constrain the problem and better understand the system, but from what the data is telling us now, it looks to be the result of a large hydrothermal system.如此一条沸腾的河流是怎么形成的呢?连年来,我询问了许多地热专家和火山研究者们,至今

43、也没能找到另外一个非火山的地热系统,有如此大的规模。这是唯一无二的。在全世界范围内来讲都是专门的。但,它究竟是怎么运作的呢?这些热量从哪里来的?人们还要做许多的研究才能更好的操纵那个问题并明白得这种系统,但从目前咱们取得的数据看,似乎是由大型热泉系统致使的。Basically, it works like this: So, the deeper you go into the earth, the hotter it gets. We refer to this as the geothermal gradient. The waters could be coming from as fa

44、r away as glaciers in the Andes, then seeping down deep into the earth and coming out to form the boiling river after gettingheated up from the geothermal gradient, all due to this unique geologic setting.归纳起来即是:越接近地球核心,温度越高。咱们称此为地热梯度。这些水可能是遥远的安第斯山脉冰川融水,慢慢渗透入地球核心,然后以沸腾河的形式流出,在受到地热梯度的加热以后,这 一切都归功于这种独

45、特的地质特点。Now, we found that in and around the river - this is working with colleagues from NationalGeographic, Dr. Spencer Wells,and Dr. Jon Eisenfrom UC Davis - we genetically sequenced the extremophile life forms living in and around the river, and have found new life forms, unique species living in

46、 the boiling river.目前,咱们觉察这条河里和周围,我同几位来自国家地理的同事一路,来自国家地理的威 尔士博士,来自UC Davis的埃森博士-咱们对生活在河里和周边的生物 -进行了基因排序,而且找到了 新的生命形式,生活在沸腾河里的独特生物。But again, despite all of these studies, all of these discoveries and the legends, a question remains: What is the significance of the boiling river? What is the signific

47、ance of this stationary cloud that always hovers over this patch of jungle? And what is the significance of a detail in a childhood legend?但,尽管有这些研究,这些觉察和传奇,仍有一个问题萦绕人心:沸腾河的存在有重要意义吗? 那片笼罩丛林的静止的云的存在有什么意义呢?再者,童年时期听到的传奇又有什么重要性呢?But to the illegalTo the shaman and his community, it's a sacred site. T

48、o me, as a geoscientist, it's a unique geothermal phenomenon.loggers and cattle farmers, it's just another resource to exploit.And tothe Peruvian government, it's just another st retch of unprotected land ready for development.对萨满大师和那里的居民来讲,这是一个神圣的地址。对我来讲,作为一名地球学家, 这是独 特的地热现象。但关于非法砍木和畜牧农场主来讲,这只只是是另一个能够开采的地址算了。 而关 于秘鲁政府来讲,这只只是是另一个未受爱惜的地址等待被开发算了。My goal is to ensure that whoever controls this land understands the boiling river's uniqueness and significance. Because

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