染整英语4 printing

1、Chapter 4 printing of textiles第四章第四章 织物印花织物印花By CC 4.1 introduction to printing印花简介印花简介Coloured designsDyes or pigments must be applied in a predetermined pattern to the textile substrate.染料或干粉必须按预定的图案应用到纺织品上染料或干粉必须按预定的图案应用到纺织品上The localized application of dye or pigment to a textile substrate to ge

2、nerate a design.局部的局部的应用应用基底基底生成生成染料或干粉在织物基底的局部应用以形成图案染料或干粉在织物基底的局部应用以形成图案Printings 印花印花 Free-hand printing 任意手绘印花任意手绘印花 Free-hand printing 任意手绘印花任意手绘印花 Time consuming 时间消耗大时间消耗大 Does not always result in a uniform repeat of a motif 图案式样难一致图案式样难一致knsju:mi adj. 消费的消费的 muti:fn. 装饰的图案或式样装饰的图案或式样Block-p

3、rinting technique 模板印花模板印花Printing process 印花工艺印花工艺1. Dye is firstly dissolved and pasted with a small quantity of water and a suitable thickening agent2. Dye is applied to fabric and dried immediately1. 将染料溶解于水，然后用少量水将适量增稠剂与之混合将染料溶解于水，然后用少量水将适量增稠剂与之混合2. 染料应用到织物，然后立即干燥染料应用到织物，然后立即干燥Printing process

4、印花工艺印花工艺3. Dye is fixed on the fabric by steaming or heating4. Fabric is soaped and washed with water3. 通过蒸汽或加热固色通过蒸汽或加热固色4. 最后将织物洗涤最后将织物洗涤100-102 for 3-5 minPigment printing 涂料印花涂料印花 用用涂料涂料而不是用而不是用染料染料来生产印花布已经非来生产印花布已经非常广泛，以致开始把它当作一种独立的印常广泛，以致开始把它当作一种独立的印花方式。涂料印花是用涂料直接印花，该花方式。涂料印花是用涂料直接印花，该工艺通常叫做干法

5、印花，以区别于湿法印工艺通常叫做干法印花，以区别于湿法印花花(或染料印花或染料印花)。Pigment printing 涂料印花涂料印花Binder 粘合剂粘合剂Pigment 干粉颜料干粉颜料Printing blends 混纺印花混纺印花Any fibre type 任何纤维类型任何纤维类型Pigment printing 涂料印花涂料印花 Provided there is enough binder present， no wash-off process is need 假如，若是假如，若是清洗工序清洗工序粘合剂粘合剂Reduce processing costs 减少成本减少成本R

6、educe time 节约时间节约时间Reduce the amount of effluent produced降低排污量降低排污量污水，污染污水，污染Pigment printing 涂料印花涂料印花problem The thickener remains in the printed area， trapped in the binder film can lead to a deterioration in the fabrics handle. 增稠剂残留在印花区域，夹在粘合层中，增稠剂残留在印花区域，夹在粘合层中，可能会导致织物手感变差。可能会导致织物手感变差。Printing

7、techniques印花技术印花技术 Block printing Mordant printing Resist printing Screen printing Roller printing Transfer printing Photographic printing 模板印花模板印花 媒染印花媒染印花 防染印花防染印花 筛网印花筛网印花 滚筒印花滚筒印花 转移印花转移印花 照相印花照相印花Printing method 印花方法印花方法Roller printing 滚筒印花滚筒印花Screen printing 筛网印花筛网印花 Transfer printing 转移印花转移印花

8、Types of printing machines 印花机器的种类Roller printing 滚筒印花滚筒印花Roller printing 滚筒印花滚筒印花The printing color 染料染料The fabric 织物织物Engraved rollers 印花滚筒印花滚筒Roller printing 滚筒印花滚筒印花Screen printing 筛网印花筛网印花 Flat-bed screen printing平网印花Rotary screen printing圆网印花Flat screen - synthetic fibre or metal gauze stretch

9、ed tautly over a frameSeamless cylindrical screens which are composed of a nickel meshTransfer printing 转移印花转移印花Polyester substrates涤纶基底涤纶基底Transfer printing 转移印花转移印花 The selected _ are first printed on to a _ usually by rotary screen printing； _ and this printed paper are then passed into a _ that

10、is heated up to 180 ； by the action of _ , the dyes become _ and transfer to the fabric and then _; further _ or wash-off processes.disperse dyescellulosic paper the fabric to be printed transfer calendar temperature and pressuregaseousdiffuse into the fibresfixationPrinting style 印花式样印花式样Direct pri

11、nting 直接印花直接印花Discharge printing 拔染印花拔染印花Resist printing 防染印花防染印花Direct printing 直接印花直接印花a multi-colored print 多色印花多色印花 on a white ground 白底白底Discharge printing 拔染印花拔染印花 The uniform dyeing of the fabric by any of the conventional dyeing methods, followed by drying and printing a thickened solution o

12、f an oxidizing agent such as sodium chlorate or a reducing agent such as sodium sulphoxylate formaldehyde and steaming.任何常规染色方法对织物均匀染色任何常规染色方法对织物均匀染色随后烘干并将含有氧化剂如氯酸钠随后烘干并将含有氧化剂如氯酸钠或还原剂如雕白粉的浆料印在织物上再汽蒸或还原剂如雕白粉的浆料印在织物上再汽蒸Resist printing 防染印花防染印花 that will resist the ground colour from fixing in the prin

13、ted area 印花部位底色无法固色 A chemical Printing paste 印花浆印花浆 the ground colour is fixed only in the non-printed areas. 印花部位之外的部分完成固色_ 防染印花防染印花Batik printing _Best known 最有名的最有名的Resisting agent防染剂防染剂Wax 蜡蜡 4.2 Roller printing 滚筒印花滚筒印花Roller printing machine滚筒印花机滚筒印花机Central pressure cylinder中心承压辊筒中心承压辊筒Engra

14、ved rollers刻花辊筒刻花辊筒Furnish rollers给浆辊筒给浆辊筒4.2 Roller printing 滚筒印花滚筒印花Engraved rollers刻花辊筒刻花辊筒Impart colors to fabric将颜料传递到织物上将颜料传递到织物上 Function功能功能4.2 Roller printing 滚筒印花滚筒印花Engravings 雕刻凹纹雕刻凹纹 a series of parallel channels一系列平行的凹槽一系列平行的凹槽7/1000 to 8/1000 of an inch deep千分之千分之7到千分之到千分之8英寸深英寸深4.2 R

15、oller printing 滚筒印花滚筒印花Colour doctor 刮浆刀刮浆刀Lint doctor 铜刮刀铜刮刀4.2 Roller printing 滚筒印花滚筒印花Engraved roller 刻花辊筒刻花辊筒Pressure roller 承压辊筒承压辊筒Furnish roller 给浆辊筒给浆辊筒4.2 Roller printing 滚筒印花滚筒印花 The fastest way of printing 最快的印花方法最快的印花方法 Requires skilled labor and much heavy manual work in the changing of

16、 the colour troughs and rollers 需要技术工，并且在更换颜料槽和辊筒时需要大量需要技术工，并且在更换颜料槽和辊筒时需要大量劳动力劳动力 Initial investment is so high 早期投资巨大早期投资巨大screen printing 筛网印花筛网印花Hand screen printing 手工筛网印花手工筛网印花Flat-bed screen printing平网印花平网印花Rotary screen printing圆网印花圆网印花4.3 screen printing 筛网印花筛网印花Hand screen printing 手工筛网印花手

17、工筛网印花Preparation of screen筛网准备筛网准备Silk or synthetic fibre or metal gauze丝网，合成纤维丝网，金属纱网丝网，合成纤维丝网，金属纱网Nikelmesh 镍网镍网Preparation of screen筛网准备筛网准备Photochemical process光化学加工工艺光化学加工工艺Design 图案图案Screen 筛网筛网Photosensitive material 感光材料感光材料4.3 screen printing 筛网印花筛网印花Flat-bed screen printing 平网印花平网印花Flat-be

18、d screen printing 平网印花平网印花The fabric in continuous length 连续织物连续织物An endless conveyor belt 连续传送带连续传送带 the screens are arranged side by side above the fabric筛网并排放置在织物上 the belt is automatically set to move forward by one or several pattern repeats at a time.传动带一次自动向前一个或几个印花单元 the colours are applied

19、to the fabric by the squeegee action刮浆板将颜料应用到织物上Rotary screen printing 圆网印花圆网印花Seamless cylindrical screens 无缝圆柱形网无缝圆柱形网Rotary screen printing 圆网印花圆网印花 Each rotary screen is positioned across the fabric每个圆网横放在织物上每个圆网横放在织物上 As the screen rotates, it is fed with printing paste which is forced through

20、the open mesh areas by a stationary squeegee当圆网转动，颜料浆被静止的刮浆棒从筛孔中挤出当圆网转动，颜料浆被静止的刮浆棒从筛孔中挤出And onto the fabric being through beneath by the continuously moving conveyor应用到位于圆网下方传送带上的织物应用到位于圆网下方传送带上的织物Advantages of screen printing筛网印花的优势筛网印花的优势 Produce larger repeats than those impossible in roller prin

21、ting 比滚筒印花更大的花型单元 Provide greater scope in styling especially in furnishing fabrics 提供更多花样造型，特别是家装织物 Reduce machine down-time 减少机器停机时间Common faults in screen printing筛网印花常见瑕疵筛网印花常见瑕疵specks of colour 色斑色斑Light print 印花太浅印花太浅Smudging of the print 印花墨点印花墨点Deeper prints 印花太深印花太深Uneven prints 印花不均匀印花不均匀T

22、iny holes in screen 漏洞Too much solids in the printing paste 颜料浆太稠Screen is not dried 筛网未干Uneven table surface 台面不平Uneven edge of the squeegee刮浆板边缘不平Printing paste is not homogenous颜料浆不均匀4.4 transfer printing 转移印花转移印花4.4 transfer printing 转移印花转移印花Dyes are printed onto a paper baseDyes are transferred

23、 from the paper to a fabricMost of the dyes are disperse dyes and a few solvent dyesMechanism of transfer printing转移印花原理转移印花原理Heat is applied to the printed paper in contact with the fabric将印花纸加热，与织物接触将印花纸加热，与织物接触With increasing temperature, the vapour pressure of the dye increases and a dynamic equ

24、ilibrium is established.随着温度升高，染料蒸汽压上升，建立动态平衡随着温度升高，染料蒸汽压上升，建立动态平衡The sublimation process continues until the dye vapour atmosphere above the paper reaches super-saturation升华过程继续进行，直到纸上的染料蒸汽打到超饱升华过程继续进行，直到纸上的染料蒸汽打到超饱和状态和状态Mechanism of transfer printing转移印花原理转移印花原理Sublimation _Super saturation _Conde

25、nsation _ 扩散扩散Dyes 染料染料 Dyes suitable for transfer printing should exhibit excellent colour value,colour fastness and printing ink suitability.色值色值色牢度色牢度印花墨水适应性印花墨水适应性1. Heat transfer printing热转移印花热转移印花Nylons 尼龙尼龙, polyester 涤纶涤纶, acrylics 腈纶腈纶, triacetates 醋酯纤维醋酯纤维, polyester and cotton blends 涤棉涤棉

26、The heat transfer printing papers热转移印花纸热转移印花纸Gravure engraving 照相凹版雕刻照相凹版雕刻Lithographic printing 平板印花平板印花Flexographic printing 橡胶板轮转印花橡胶板轮转印花Silk screen method 丝网印花丝网印花Heat transfer machine热转移机热转移机Flat-bed transfer type 平板转移型平板转移型Continuous transfer type 连续转移型连续转移型Flat-bed transfer type 平板转移型平板转移型Ga

27、rment 成衣成衣Printing process 印花流程印花流程Feeding 准备准备 Printing 印花印花 Stacking 整理整理 Continuous transfer type 连续转移型连续转移型Fabric 织物织物Hot metal cylinder 高温金属圆筒高温金属圆筒Endless belt 连续传送带连续传送带Characteristics 特点特点All color are printed at the same time所有颜色在同一时间印所有颜色在同一时间印Production can change rapidly from one design

28、to another simply by changing the design paper更换印花纸就能立即更换印花式样更换印花纸就能立即更换印花式样The capital cost of the equipment is low and so also are the space requirement设备投资小，空间要求低设备投资小，空间要求低Characteristics 特点特点The proportion of sub-standard quality is low不合格质量比例低不合格质量比例低It does not contribute to water pollution p

29、roblem不产生污水问题不产生污水问题Slower than either roller or rotary screen printing速度比滚筒或筛网印花慢速度比滚筒或筛网印花慢The prints have limited colour fastness印花色牢度有限印花色牢度有限Characteristics 特点特点Less flexibility for correction of colour; once printed cannot be modified灵活性差，一旦印好就无法改变灵活性差，一旦印好就无法改变Glassy handle is generally not a

30、cceptable玻璃态手感不被接受玻璃态手感不被接受Vocabulary 词汇词汇Super saturationCondensationDiffusionVapour pressureSublimation processColour value超饱和超饱和冷凝冷凝扩散扩散蒸汽压蒸汽压升华升华色值色值The localized application of dye or pigment to a textile substrate to generate a design.局部的局部的应用应用基底基底生成生成染料或干粉在织物基底的局部应用以形成图案染料或干粉在织物基底的局部应用以形成图案P

31、rinting process 印花工艺印花工艺1. Dye is firstly dissolved and pasted with a small quantity of water and a suitable thickening agent2. Dye is applied to fabric and dried immediately1. 将染料溶解于水，然后用少量水将适量增稠剂与之混合将染料溶解于水，然后用少量水将适量增稠剂与之混合2. 染料应用到织物，然后立即干燥染料应用到织物，然后立即干燥Printing process 印花工艺印花工艺3. Dye is fixed on the fabric by steaming or heating4. Fabric is soaped and washed with water3. 通过蒸汽或加热固色通过蒸汽或加热固色4. 最后将织物洗涤最后将织物洗涤100-102 for 3-