服装制作标准培训课件

1、1Garments Construction Standards服装制作标准服装制作标准Contents 目录目录Section 1: - Components and trims 成分和辅料成分和辅料Fabric面料Interlinings粘衬Internal trims内部辅料Linings里布Threads缝纫线Zips拉链Buttons纽扣Fastenings, rivets and studs扣合件，铆钉和工字扣Trims, belts and motifs饰边，腰绳和花边Elastication橡筋Accessories服饰配件Section 2: - Manufacturing

2、guidelines生产指导生产指导Garments衣服Accessories服饰配件 Section 3: - Presentation guidelines外观指导外观指导Pressing熨烫Finished Goods整理Labels标牌Packing包装 Section 4: - Safety安全性安全性Garments衣服Accessories服饰配件Replacement Needle Procedure断针纪录Good Housekeeping Guide良好的管理指导 Section 5: - Childrens Safety Requirements童装安全性要求童装安全性要

3、求Fabric / Materials面料 / 原料Components成分Design Aspects设计外观Textile Accessories纺织辅料Metal Content金属物料Toxicity毒性Nickel镍 Lab Test测试2Internal trim内部装饰内部装饰For menswear Poly/cotton woven pocketing must be used.必须用涤/棉梭织物做男装口袋布。Lining里料里料For padded garments the lining must be quilted or stitched at appropriate

4、intervals to prevent the padding from falling. Padding must not escape through the weave of the outer fabric of the inner lining. 对于有填充物的衣服，里料必须衍缝或加缝适当间距的缉线防止填充物陷落。填充物不能透出里布面料。 Lining must not be visible beyond the hemline of cuffs of a garment. The lining must finish 2.5 cm(1inch)above the hem, and

5、 cover the hem stitching.里料不能吐露服装下摆及克夫。必须在摆上2.5CM(1英寸)处修光边且遮盖下摆缝迹。 The fibres used in the lining must be stated on the care lab里布面料成分必须注明在洗标上。Sewing thread 缝纫线缝纫线Must be a good colour match unless intended as a contrast. 必须良好配色除非设计成撞色。Must be colourfast to washing and light. 在 洗涤及光照下不能褪色。100% Polyes

6、ter thread must be used on products with low flammability requirements. 要求必须用低燃点的100%聚脂纤维缝纫线。 Bulk thread should be used in over-lock loopers when sewing Elastane fabrics. 缝制弹性面料时必须用包缝线迹。 Monofilament thread is not acceptable for use at any time. 任何情况下都禁止使用单纤维缝线。 3 SECTION 1 COMPONENTS AND TRIMS 第一部

7、分第一部分 成分和辅料成分和辅料The following section gives a summary of the general quality assurance procedures for components trims. 以下部分将列出关于服装部件的一般品质保证程序概要。All components trims must be suitable for the after care of the garment according to the wash care instructions given.所有服装部件必须与服装上的洗标所显示的内容相吻合。 Fabric 面料面料

8、Take care to make sure that all fabrics with raised fibers that produce anap, or fabric that is cut one way design, are cut so that separate panels and separate garment pieces run in the same direction.注意所有拉绒的凸面织物，或设计为以一个方向裁剪的面料，必须以同方向缝制拼片和服装部件。Fabric faults are not acceptable in garments unless the

9、y are inherent in the fabric and are agreed at the buying stage.不接受服装面料上的疵点除非是缘于面料本身固有的问题造成的或疵点在客人接受的范围内。Variations of shading are unacceptable within a garment, or from one garment to another. Garment pieces must be numbered after cutting. 不接受同一件服装上的色差或服装间的缸差。开裁后的服装裁片必须编号防止产生色差。Interlinings 粘衬粘衬Gar

10、ments showing delamination (bubbling), glue marks or strike through caused by interlining are not acceptable. All interlinings must be applied using correct temperatures with fusing machines tested at regular intervals.不接受由于粘衬导致服装上的分层，起泡，露胶或者穿透。所有的粘衬必须用热熔机械以正确的温度粘贴并且定期测试。4Zips 拉链拉链 Only zips approve

11、d by BS are accepted. 只接受经过公司确认的拉链。 Spring lock or auto lock zips must be used. Auto lock zips are preferred. Pintuck zips are not acceptable. 必须用弹簧锁或自动锁头拉练。首选用自动锁头拉练。不能用大头针拉练。 The base of an open-ended zip must be reinforced where attached to the fabric. The zip slider must not be obstructed. 拉链缝到面

12、料上底端开口处必须加固，上下拉动拉链时不能有生涩的感觉。 The tops of the zips should be secured with a top zip stop where necessary. No sharp edges should protrude at the top. All surplus zip teeth should be removed. 拉链顶端需要处必须有齿止安全保护。顶端不能有突出的锋利边缘，多余的拉齿必须剪掉。 There must be no sharp edges exposed at the bottom of the zip tape. Th

13、ese must be trimmed back or if possible enclosed in the hem fabric. All metal parts must be removed. 拉链码带底部不能留有锋利的边缘，反面必须修光，如果缝于下摆上，所有的金属部分必须清除。Buttons 纽扣纽扣All garments must carry a spare button of each ligne used. There must be 2 spare buttons if the garment has 10 buttons or more. 所有的服装上每个款式的纽扣必须留

14、有一颗备纽，若服装上有十颗或者更多此款纽扣，必须留有两颗备钮。Buttons must be securely attached using a lockstitch machine. 纽扣必须用锁式缝纫线钉扣机缝钉牢固。Metal components must be nickel free. 金属成分中不能含镍。Non- toxic buttons must be used. 纽扣必须无毒性。Buttons used on childrenswear must not be two-part. 童装上的纽扣不能是可以分成两个部分的类型。Buttons used on childrenswe

15、ar must not represent any form of food substance. 童装上的纽扣不能有任何和食物主旨相关的图案。5Fastenings, poppers, and studs 扣合件，铐纽和工字扣扣合件，铐纽和工字扣 Fastening must be securely attached to the garment without causing damage to the fabric of the fastener itself. There must be no sharp edges 扣合件必须安全牢固得缝制在服装上且不能由于扣合件本身导致面料破损，不

16、能有尖锐的边缘。Metal fasteners and components must not rust after washing. 金属扣合件和辅料水洗后不能生锈。Post fasteners must not be used on woven fabrics and prongs on knitted fabrics. 扣合件中的纽柱不能用于梭织面料，不能插在针织面料上。The length of the post or prong must be appropriate for the fabric thickness. 纽柱的长度或裆叉必须适合面料的厚度。Lightweight kn

17、itted fabrics may require interlining to prevent laddering. 薄型针织面料可能需要夹层防止线圈脱落。All garments with fastenings must be opened and closed during inspection. 所有用扣合件的服装在检查时必须查核扣合件的开闭情况。All fastenings must meet customers pull test regulations. 所有扣合件必须经过客人的拉力测试规则。Record of pull testing should be kept for 1

18、year. 拉力测试记录应当保持一年。Belts, trims and motifs 腰带，饰边和花边腰带，饰边和花边 If detachable trims e.g. belts, are not washable, this must shown on the sewn-in care label. 可脱卸的装饰物例如腰带等，若不可水洗，必须在洗标上注明。If motifs prints and trims cant be ironed, this must be shown on the sewn-in label. 若装饰物或印花不可熨烫，必须在洗标上注明。There must be

19、backing on fabric of washable belts. 可水洗的绳带必须在面料上打回针牢固。Elastication 橡筋橡筋 Stitching must not crack. 缝制时不能断裂。The join of the elastic must be secured by double stitching to at least 2cm. 接缝橡筋时必须安全双缝牢固至少2公分左右。Elastic should be attached in a way that prevents twisting or rolling. Any fullness must be dis

20、tributed evenly. 缝制橡筋时必须采取不能产生卷翘起伏现象的方法，任何宽松位必须均匀分布。Accessories 服饰配件服饰配件 All attachments and finishes must be free from rust, tarnish and sharp edges.所有配件饰物必须不能生锈，失去光泽或有尖锐边缘。Belts must always be fastened in the center hole. 腰绳必须在孔管中固定。Belts should always be kimbal attached to garment for security.腰绳

21、必须系扎在服装上以防安全。6SECTION 2 MANUFACTURING GUIDELINES第二部分第二部分 生产指导生产指导Garments 衣服衣服The way garments are cut; put together and finished will influence their appearance and durability due to the garments being worn often. 服装裁剪时，面料必须放在一起且同时完成影响外观的整理及经常穿着所需的耐磨处理。All excess threads must be trimmed and removed

22、 from the garment. 服装上的浮线必须清理修剪干净。Stitching must be correctly spaced and tensioned to make sure there is no seam grinning, but the seam must stretch in relation to the fabric properties. Do not use lock stitch on stretch fabrics.We recommend 10 to 12 stitches in every 2.5cm of woven fabrics, but the

23、 seam must stretch in relation to the fabric properties. 缝纫必须有适当的间距和松紧度防止爆口，同时应根据面料特性适当具有弹性。不要用锁式线迹缝纫弹性面料。对于梭织面料推荐每2.5公分10-12针，但缝纫应根据面料特性具有弹性。All visible raw edges of woven fabrics must be overlocked or neatened. 面料上所有可见毛边必须锁边或清理干净。A single thread chain stitch is not acceptable. 不接受单线链式缝迹。All back r

24、ise seams should be two-thread chain stitch or double row lock stitch. 所有后档缝应当用双针链式缝迹或双行锁式线迹。All neck closure seams should be 1cm past the shoulder seam towards the back of the garment. 所有颈缝末段处应当在服装背面向后过肩缝1公分。The edges of quilted garment parts must be stitched before the parts are assembled. 对于有填充物的

25、衍缝服装部件，在组合前必须先缉边缝。Felting should be latched off with no run back of loose ends. 毡毯类织物必须锁边防止脱散。To prevent Elastane runback and needle damage on Elastane blend fabrics, we recommend you use ballpoint needles. 为了防止橡筋缝在面料上时脱散以及受缝纫针损伤，推荐用圆头针缝纫。Shoulder tape must be used for knitwear and jerseywear. 针织物和毛

26、衫类必须有肩带。7All pockets, sleeves cuffs and collar points must be paired. 所有口袋，袖克夫和领尖必须是成双的。All stress points (e.g. belt loops, crotch seams, etc.) must be adequately reinforced. 所有的受力点，例如腰袢，裆缝处等必须充分加固。Buttonholes must be lock stitched and they must have sufficient stitch density to avoid fraying. For j

27、eans and trousers use gimp thread in buttonholes 纽孔必须锁边并且针脚密度足够防止散边。对于牛仔和裤装要求用辫式锁眼。On pocket top corners must be adequately reinforced either by triangle tack or bar tack. 口袋上角必须用三角针或打套结充分加固。On jeans the placket / fly area should be faced or double fabric thickness. 牛仔服装上/下门襟处必须贴面或双层厚度本布面料。 Woven mu

28、st also be fused. There must be at least one bar-tack to reinforce the bottom of the placket. The fly facing or shield should be tapered and reinforced with tacking or fabric tape. The zip should be sturdy enough for the garment fabric and adequate length to easily put on the jeans. The zippers for

29、the jeans must have a lock feature. 梭织物同样需要如此保险，门襟底部需要至少一个套结加固。裤门襟贴片或腋下贴片必须是锥形的并且打套结或用本布带加固。拉链相对于服装面料必须有足够强度且长度适当方便牛仔穿脱。牛仔上的拉链必须有锁头特征。 That is that the zip puller should remain at the top when stress is applied. 对拉链施力时拉链头不能脱出。Also on jeans flat fell seams double or triple stitching provides flat, fi

30、rm enclosed seams. These must be smoothly constructed. This seam construction encases the seam allowance so there is no raveling during wearing or washing. If seams are not fell flat, you must ensure seams are serged (overcast) to cover the raw edges and thus prevent raveling. 对于牛仔衣物需要用双线或三线外包缝的线迹保证

31、止口平直牢固。拼接平稳滑顺。拼接缝包围住缝头不至于穿着或水洗时脱散。如果接缝不是外包边，必须确保缝头锁边并遮住毛边防止散边。Stitch/ seam types 缉线缉线/拼缝类型拼缝类型Lock stitch 锁式缝迹 Used for topstitching, French seams, attaching trims and components, lining, collar and cuff seams. 用于辑明线，来去缝，拼缝辅料和服装组件，里料，领子以及克夫拼缝处。Double lock-chain stitch 双线链式线迹。84-thread overlock四线包缝 U

32、sed for seams on fleece, light and medium weight wovens and knitwear. 用于起绒织物，轻薄及中等克重梭织物和毛衫类拼缝。5-thread overlock 五线包缝 Used for seams on jeans, medium and heavy weight wovens. 用于牛仔，中等和厚重梭织物拼缝Flatlock 绷缝 Used on jerseywear as a decorative feature. 用于毛衫作为装饰线Coverseam 包边缝 Back neck finish for T-shirt and

33、 knitwear. Decorative at hems. 用于T恤及毛衫类后颈折光处以及在下摆处作装饰。 Used for multi-needle elastication 用于多针橡筋。3- thread overlock 三线包缝 Used for seams on T-shirts. 用于T恤拼缝。Accessories 服饰配件服饰配件 All items must be securely fixed and must work as intended. 所有的配件必须安全牢固得缝制在服装上并保持赋予它的功能。Decorative detailing such as embroi

34、dery, contrasting pocket inserts or piping should be evenly and smoothly applied. 装饰细节例如绣花，撞色袋嵌线或包边等缝制必须均匀圆顺。Buttonholes should be functional, clearly cut and stitched closely with no loose threads or exposed edges. 纽孔必须是有功能的，清理干净以及线迹紧密没有松散浮线或暴露边缘的现象。Quality pockets have edges carefully turned and h

35、ave been placed evenly and securely on the garment. 口袋边缘谨慎翻转并且平坦牢固得缝于衣服上。Lining and pocket fabric should be durable with the edges finished. 里布和口袋布必须折光边并且是可以持久耐用的。 Hems should be even, flat and securely stitched before pressing, as this problem will not press out after customer washes it.下摆在熨烫前必须均匀平

36、坦且缝制牢固，以保证顾客在清洗衣物后不会产生任何问题。9SECTION 3 PRESENTATION GUIDELINES第三部分第三部分 外观指导外观指导Pockets should be tack stitch closed on formal garments with a large, loose stitch, unless otherwise specified 正装上的口袋必须用宽松大距的假缝闭口除非有特别要求的除外。Garments should not be creased, crushed or glazed, Impressions must not be visible

37、 in any area. 服装不能有折皱，受挤压或产生表面极光。任何部位都不能有压痕。Before packing all garments should be cleared of loose threads, loose fibres and any work tickets. 包装服装前必须清除一切浮线，纤维以及任何工作票据。All garments should be given enough time to dry thoroughly and relax before packing. 所有服装在包装前必须有充分的时间彻底干燥舒缓。Ribs must not be steam p

38、ressed. 罗纹组织不能用蒸气熨斗熨烫。Correct size packing card must be used to fit size of garments. 服装包装时必须用正确的尺码标牌。If garments do not fit size of box, suitable packaging is to be used. 如果服装不适合箱形，需要采取适当的折叠方式。 Bags and wrappers are to be BHT free and of micron guage and must be recyclable. 包装袋和包装材料不能含有BHT且按照指定的品质同

39、时必须是环保材质的。Pressing 整烫整烫Pre pressing - ensure the characteristics of the fabric are assessed. 预烫确保正确评估面料的特性。Allowances should be made for shrinkage during pressing, in accordance with the relevant lab results. 按照相关的测试结果为整烫面料预留一定的缩量。Presses should be adjusted to avoid glazing, Distortion, colour chang

40、es, press creases and damage to fabric. 整烫时适当调节温度防止产生极光，扭曲变形，变色，折痕以及破坏面料。Hand ironing 手烫手烫Steam and heat are required to press shape. Vacuum Heat (no steam) are required to set shape 蒸气和热量用来压烫服装的造型，干烫（无蒸气）用来固定造型。All seams to be pressed consistently in one direction. 所有拼缝必须始终按照一个方向压烫。Open seams must

41、always be pressed open and flat. 开口拼缝处需烫开烫平。All linings must be smooth with no impressions on the lining or outer fabric.The whole garment must be pressed.所有里料必须平滑且面里料不能有烫痕。整件服装必须是经过熨烫的。 10Dolly Pressing/Steam Cabinets 垫布烫垫布烫 / 蒸气柜蒸气柜These must only be used where a satisfactory finish can be achieve

42、d on the particular garment and fabric type. 仅用于为达到满意的整理效果的特殊服装和面料。Flat Beds 烫床烫床Knitted garments must not be stretched in order to achieve the specification. 针织服装不能拉伸以达到相应的尺寸规格。Frames must be used wherever possible to standardize shape. 用框架使服装外形尽可能标准化。Finished Goods 后整理后整理 An examination sequence f

43、or each style should be adhered to at all times. 每一个款式服装在任何时候都必须进行程序性的检查。All garments must be given sufficient time to relax and dry thoroughly prior to packing. 包装前所有的服装都必须给予充分的时间闲置并且完全干燥。Garments must be appropriately packed and stored in order to maintain the best possible retail standard. 服装必须适当

44、的包装储藏已达到尽可能最佳的零售状态。The following points should be addressed: 以下几点必须声明：-All garments should act in accordance with British and International Standards. 所有服装生产都必须符合英国和国际上的标准。 - The final garment must comply with BS specification, in all aspects. 服装最终成品必须在各个方面符合公司的规格单。 - The bulk production should conf

45、orm to the individual customers seal of approval. 大货必须完全同客人确认的封样。Labels 商标商标Labels must be sourced and positioned as specified by BS and the customer. 商标的供货来源和缝制位置必须按照公司和客人的详细要求。All sew in labels must be neatly and securely attached with all printing clearly visible. 所有商标的缝制必须牢固整洁并且印刷字迹清晰可见。 Garment

46、 washed products must be labeled after washing.水洗服装必须在水洗后缝制商标。Packing 包装包装 Style number and size should be on front of the poly bag. 款号和尺码必须显示于胶袋正面。 Safety Warning should be the on back of the poly bag. 安全警告语必须显示于胶袋背面。All packing should be as instructed on the purchase orders. 所有包装方式必须按照订单上的指示。11SEC

47、TION 4 SAFETY REQUIREMENTS第四部分第四部分 安全要求安全要求Garments 服装服装All necessary precautions must be followed in production to minimise any risk to our customers. You must tell us of any issues that could risk the safety of our customers. 货物必须采取所有可以降低风险的一切措施，使我们的客人将会面临风险的系数降到最低同时必须告知客户 任何会产生安全风险的问题。We expect y

48、ou to take all possible precautions to make sure that no full or part needle remains in garments. 我们要求供应商采取一切可能的预防措施防止整根或部分断针残留在服装上。 You must have a needle replacement policy and system in all your factories. This procedure must be documented and an updated log kept, ready for us to inspect if neces

49、sary. Photocopies must be faxed to us monthly. 供应商的所有工厂必须有断针纪录和相关体制。这些程序必须有可证明的文件并定期更新已备我们需要时检查。同时每月应当传真给我们相关复印件。 If we find a full or part needle in a garment, this is classified as critical fault and will result in the product being rejected or recalled from stores, resulting in the whole delivery

50、 being rejected. 如果在服装上发现一根全针或断针，这会被划分为极其危险的疵点将直接导致拒收货物或取消此批货物。同时还将导致拒收工厂已经在运送途中的货物。 All components should be non- toxic. 所有的成分必须是没有毒性的。 Do not use staples, this includes all cartons. 不能用钉书针，纸箱上不能有箱钉。 Samples must be sent with paperwork signed, this will include measurements and any comments of obse

51、rvation. 寄样衣时必须携带签名文书，其中包括尺寸测量及检查批注。Accessories 服饰配件服饰配件There must be no sharp edges that could result in injury to the wearer. 不能有尖锐的边缘可能导致伤害穿着者。12 BS Imports进口货物进口货物 Replacement Needle Policy 断针纪录断针纪录The following policy applies to all regions within the factory, including the sample room; it appl

52、ies to ALL garments produced for BS. 以下方针适用于工厂的任何区域，包括样衣间。同时适用于为公司制造的所有所有服装。A needle free environment must be achieved, all needles in use and in storage must be controlled and accounted for; this includes hand sewing, machine sewing, tag guns or for knitting.必须达到无针环境，所有正在使用或备用的针具都必须受管制并且是可以说明用途的。这包

53、括手缝针，机缝针，枪针或用于编织的针具。Factory operatives must never be in possession of any spare needles. Only a supervisor or authorised person can distribute spare needles in exchange for broken or blunt ones.工厂中的操作者不能有备用针，只有监督或管理人员能够分发备用针，用来替换断针或钝化的针。New needles must be stored in a safe place, preferably under lo

54、ck and key, new needles will only be issued on a one for one basis after all pieces of the old one have been found 新针必须贮藏在安全处，最好是带锁的地方。发放新针时必须在找到原有旧针所有部分的基础上一根替换一根。If all parts of a broken needle cant be found, then the bundles / garments on which the operative is working must be removed away from t

55、he line and passed through a metal detector. 如果没有找到断针的全部部分，那么拥有断针的操作者处理的所有成品或半成品服装必须移开生产流水线并且通过金属探测仪器。If the factory does not have a metal detector, a magnet or hand held metal detector may be used to find the broken needle parts. 如果工厂没有金属探测仪器，那么就用磁铁或手持探测物找到断裂部分的针具。All suspect garments must be re-in

56、spected carefully until every garment is accounted for. If any parts are still missing the entire garment(s) are to be disposed of safely. 所有令人怀疑的服装必须仔细得重新检查，直至每一件服装都确信没有断针隐患。如果断针始终没有被发现，那么这些衣物将需要采取安全措施。Needle fragments are to be taped together in a “broken needle record sheet”, with the date, opera

57、tive, if all parts are found and, if not, what action was taken and the supervisors signature. 断针碎片需要纪录备案在断针记录报告上，并纪录日期，操作者，是否找到全部断裂部分，如果没有，必须记录采取了何种措施以及监督者的签名。Blunt / old needles must never be disposed of in waste bins or on the factory floor; they should be placed in a sealed, marked container whi

58、ch is kept well away from the production area, trimming store or mechanics workshops are ideal. 钝化 / 老旧的针决不能随意处置，废弃在柜子或工厂内的室内场地上。它们必须被放置在密封的标有显著记号的容器内，并且远离生产区域。废弃物储藏室或机械车间都是理想的选择地点。 Suppliers are responsible for ensuring that this policy is applied to all areas of the factory, including the sample r

59、oom, embroidery and appliqu. 供应商有负责确认工厂的任何区域都必须采取这项措施，包括打样间，绣花间及贴花间。 Machines not in use must have the needle in the down position in a scrap of fabric.缝纫机不用时必须放下针处于低位并插在小块布片上。13Pins 大头针大头针Pins must not be used in any part of the factory. This includes the sample rooms, cutting, make-up, inspection

60、of packing area or any other areas where garments/components are handled. 工厂的任何车间都不能用大头针。其中包括样衣间、裁剪间、缝制间、检查包装间或任何处理成衣/ 部件的区域。Suppliers are responsible for ensuring that this policy is applied to embroidery, appliqu and printing operations whether in-house or on another site. 供应商有责任确保这项措施适用于绣花，贴花以及印花