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1、欧维思鞋业博客- -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟鞋业(类)常用术语中英文对照-欧维思鞋业博客目录第一章:stage 阶段p2-p10第二章 技术p7-p15第三章 鞋型转移p16-p17第一章:stage 阶段-欧维思鞋业博客 i.3.1. two main sections in dev. division 开发的两大部分:1. development section: explain more in process of new models to make samples in order to introduce market to achieve qty.开发部分:此部分着

2、重于新型体的样品制作,以便可介绍给客户 来争取一定数量的订单。2. commercialization section: explain more in process of technical after it was developed with fitting test and wear test to ensure that all products meet consumers expectations in terms of fitting, comfort and performance.技术部分:开发转移到技术部门,此阶段着重于在开发阶段完成试穿测试, 确保产品在试穿/舒适/功

3、能方面可满足客户的要求后进行的技术工作。i.3.2. development stages 开发阶段i.3.2.1. ppr: pre prototype review 初始线条评估1st stage to review all sample products internally by customer ( marketing,designer,l.o)for performance shoes, we have fitting and wear test sample to be sent.* the topics of review are :1. material 2. quality

4、 3. performance4. price 5. color 6. design7. forecast客人内部(市场销售、设计师、本地客人)对于新鞋型第一阶段之评估。对于功能性鞋型,我们要寄fitting test &wear test试穿样品。此时检查要点如下:1、材料 2、品质 3、功能4、价格 5、颜色 6、设计7、订单预测i.3.2.2. pfr:prototype final review 最后线条评估final stage to review all sample shoes before introducing the products to the customer

5、s. at this time, all key points should be finally decided (pattern / design, color,price, material (should be released), etc.).the result of fitting test should be considered for ppr meeting as a basic.在全部新鞋型介绍给客户前之最后检查阶段,此时所有要点均需做出最后确定,如:纸版、设计、颜色、价位、材料(必须是通过了测试)等等。寄出试样鞋时需附上试穿报告。此时的试穿结果是ppr 会议之基本考量点

6、。i.3.2.3. sms1:salesman sample 1 销样一introducing sample to key customers in different country in order to achieve quantity of order as per forecast.介绍新鞋型给世界各地之主要客户,以期收到理想的预告订单量。i.3.2.4. sms2:salesman sample 2 销样二finally introducing sample with final changes and final material to linecustomers (world

7、wide) in order to achieve quantity of order as per forecast. if there are changes after this stage, pm should apply pmr (product modification request.).材料及外观已定案之新鞋型,介绍给世界各地的客户群,以期收到理想的预告订单量。此阶段后若需对鞋型做修正或改变,项目经理需签发产品变更要求之函文。i.3.2.5. sas: style activation sheet 型体量产确认单sas should be signed based on bel

8、ow 3 conditions:ies passedthe test of all materials have been passed fst passed.要签订sas需有以下三个条件:ies样品通过全部材料通过测试fst成品鞋测试通过a signed style activation sheet represents an agreement between hq and lq that a model and article can be commercialized, produced and delivered.型体量产确认单意味着总部与联络处思想达成一致,有关型体与article

9、跳码试穿样品与全套号码可开始试作。i.4. development work description 开发工作简介i.4.1. development tech package (check if it is complete) 开发技术资料(检查是否完整)a. srf 样品单b. color drawing 彩图c. crispin file crispin文档d. tech drawing 技术图纸e. original last 原楦头f. original pull over 原试版鞋i.4.2. sample shoes material purchasing 样品鞋材料采购a. i

10、dentify new materials (ensure complete material information)确定新材料(确保材料信息的完整性)a. check material name, supplier, detailed description (thickness, emboss)检查材料名称、供货商、详细规格(厚度,纹路等)b. check supplier existing or new检查是否有该材料的供货商,或是新供货商c. ask for supplier information (address, contact pe橡胶on, tel,fax, e-mail

11、address), if there is a new supplier若是新供货商,则要索取供货商的联系方式 (地址、联系、电话、传真、 e-mail)。b. order upper materials 采购面部材料a. ensure all materials have been ordered;确信已经订购了所有材料;b. ask for material price/unit if it is a new one;若为新材料,需要询价;c. push material etd, issue mmr( material monitor report );追踪材料交期, 发送材料控制表;d

12、. if material etd is too late, which will cause a sample delay, find substitute material right away under the approval of customer ;如果材料交期太晚,可能导致样品出货的耽搁,在客户许可下立刻找替代材料;e. ask supplier for color swatch before material delivery;在材料发货前向厂商索要样版材料;f. ask supplier for material released report.向厂商索要材料测试通过报告。

13、c. upper materials arrived 面部材料到达a. check materials according to customer standard, if not match, reject it and ask supplier to improve and remake and resend right away;根据客户标准检验材料,如果不符合,则打掉,并要求厂商立即改进,重做再送;b. prepare color swatch card. ensure all information( material name, supplier,color, descriptio

14、n and component name)on swatch card is complete and correct.ensure all substitute materials are on swatch card.准备色卡。确保色卡上信息(材料名称、供货商、颜色、规格和部件名称)的完整性和正确性,确保所有的替代材料附在色卡上面。d. order bottom components 采购底部部件a. check bottom molds existing or not. track the mold schedule when there is a new mold opened;检查底

15、模是否存在。若开新模具,需要追踪模具进度;b. place order for every component;定购所有部件;c. prepare block for testing (only for new mold only).准备测试初胚 (仅针对新模具)。检查底模是否存在。若开新模具,需要追踪模具进度。i.4.3. the operation of plm plm的工作a. srf & color drawing checking 检查样品单和彩图a. check if there are missing color drawing according to srf;根据样品

16、单检查是否遗漏彩图;b. check difference between srf & color drawing;对照样品单和彩图检查差异;c. check last no./size/bottom mold.检查楦头编号/码数/底模。b. chinese spec 中文样品单a. translate srf to chinese;把英文样品单翻译成中文样品单;b. ensure correct translation, correct treatment on material and component, as lamination, printing, embossing, e

17、mbroidery, no missing component according to pattern.确保翻译正确,以及对材料和部件的正确处理,如贴合、印刷、高周波、电绣等,不能遗漏纸版上的任何部件。c. pull over tracking and checking 追踪并检查试版鞋a. use correct material, (if possible), find similar one as an substitution before correct material arrival;尽可能使用正确材料,如耽搁,在材料到达之前找相似材料代替;b. check stitching

18、 procedure if it can be acceptable for production;检查针车程序量产是否可以接受;c. use correct last, size;使用正确的楦头、码数;d. check fitting, shape, line up, collar height & back height.检查适合度、形状、线条、领口高度和后跟高度。d. track tooling making 追踪制具制作a. check etc for upper cutting die, upper emboss mold, screen printing tooling,e

19、mbroidery program;检查面部斩刀、高周波压模、网印制具和电绣版带的完成时间;b. check etc for new bottom mold, cutting die for eva filler & sockliner.检查新底模与eva填物和中底板斩刀的完成时间。e. track sample making 追踪样品制作a. check cutting, and ensure cutting components are correct, as material, color检查裁剪,确保裁剪部件的正确性,如材料、颜色等;b. check stitching, en

20、sure stitched upper is nice, no off center, tidy and clean;检查针车,确保针车鞋面的质量,不要偏离中心、整齐,注意清洁度;c. check assembly, ensure upper matches bottom well, no over cement, no rocking, no off center, no other damages, keep sample clean, in pai橡胶.检查成型,确保面底部配合良好,不要溢胶、摇晃、偏离中心,没有其它破损,保持样品清洁,配双好。i.4.4. sample distribu

21、tion 样品销售sms1 销样一sms2 销样二i.4.5. pre-production preparation 量产前准备a. sas型体量产确认单a. at this stage, lo development, production, and hq costing have signed off and authorized production of the shoe articles are now “unlocked”, allowing actual production orde橡胶 to be placed.在这个阶段,当地联络处的开发、生产及总部的报价已签定并已授权鞋子

22、配色的量产,实际生产的订单可下发。b. before sas signed, those things need to be considered, as material should be released, no pattern/mold issue (ies pass), and no price issue.在sas签定之前,还有一些东西需要考虑,在材料通过后,确保没有纸版和模具问题(ies通过)及价格问题。c. without sas, factory cant start to do any confirmation sample.没有sas,工厂不能开始做任何确认样品。d. o

23、nce an sas is signed, all changes to the product must be done via an official product modification request (pmr).一旦sas签定,所有对产品的更改必须通过正式的产品变更要求之函文。b. manufacturing confirmation samples生产确认样品a. once sas signed, production spec will be issued to factory, and confirmation samples can be made.sas 一旦签定,生产

24、样品单将会发到工厂,确认样品可以生产。b. mcs is a standard on the color and materials of relevant model/article for later production.生产确认鞋是相应鞋型与配色未来量产颜色与材料之标准。c. csar确认样核准单a form to confirm that a model number and article number have been correctly assembled, (e.g., color, materials, construction parts, etc.). without

25、 this csar,factory cant start producing.一张报表,用于确认模号和配色代号已经正确组合(例如:颜色、材料、部件等等)。没有确认样核准单,工厂则不能开始量产。chapter ii. commercialization第二章 技术-欧维思鞋业博客 ii.1. overview 综述:filter system before production beginning makes sure that the product can be manufactured without defect by evaluating a developed prototype

26、in different angle such as fitting, performance and manufacturing ability and then to grade all production sizes to ensure consistency with developed prototype.通过层层过滤,此系统可在量产开始前多角度评估,例如试穿,功能和产能,确信开发的样品码生产没有问题,然后确保级放出来的全套与样品码品质的一致性。commercialization shall be performed on all tn (totally new), nu (new

27、 upper),no (new outsole & midsole) project.所有tn(全新鞋型)、nu(新鞋面)、no(新大底)型体都必须要进行技术开发。send sample shoes for fitting and wear test on ies & fes stage for detailed analysis by customer with fitting test report and wear test report,and the result of report will be provided within 10 days maximum fo

28、llowing the sample shoe from customer.寄出ies和fes的试穿鞋并附上试穿报告到客户进行试穿评估。最迟10天客户就会对此做出回应。shoes sample quantity following “ global matrix table “ based on the level category.样品鞋的数量要遵从“全球统一标准”,按鞋子级别去准备。review all product aspects such as construction, tooling / equipment support to build it.评估鞋型各个方面,例如结构/制具

29、/设备等等。ii.3. commercialization stage 技术阶段:ii.3.1. i.e.s.:initial evaluation stage 初始评估阶段1st stage of commercialization to review sample size of prototype to ensure performance criteria are met that the shoe can feasibly be produced according to customer quality standard. (only for sample size: male:u

30、k8.5; female:uk5.5)这是技术性的第一个阶段,根据客户的质量标准检查样品码, 以确保生产时这些性能标准可达到。(只做标准码, 男装uk8.5,女装uk5.5)a. ies process ies流程a. ies endo橡胶ement ies 签字prepare ies endo橡胶ement package 准备ies 签字文件b. ies pattern cfm ies 纸板确认c. ies fit test sample conduct ies 试穿样品试作usually if the shoe lever is 1 & 2, will also conduct

31、wear test sample. no need for level 3.通常,如果鞋子的级别为1 & 2, 必须生产试穿样品. 若级别为3 则没必要。d. 10 days after ies sample shipment, receive ies fitting test report.10天后收到ies试穿报告。e. ies passed - enter into fesies failed - revise and conduct againies 通过 - 进入fes阶段ies 失败 - 修改并重作再寄ii.3.2. f.e.s.:final evaluation stag

32、e 最后评估阶段detail evaluation from extended size grading is to ensure the grading has been carried out correctly and the integrity of the i.e.s sample has been maintained. (for extended size: male: uk6.5,8.5,10.5; female: uk3.5,5.5, 7.5)详细检查级放出来的延伸码(即大中小码),以确保级放的正确性,ies鞋子的完整性应被保留。(需做大、中、小码,男装uk6.5,8.5,1

33、0.5,女装uk3.5,5.5, 7.5)a. fes process fes流程a. fes pattern cfm fes 纸版确认b. fes fitting test sample conduct fes 试穿样品试作c. 10 days later, receive fes fit test report 10天后收到fes试穿报告d. fes passed-enter into fsrfes failed-revise and conduct againfes 通过 - 进入fsr 阶段fes 失败 - 修改并重作再寄ii.3.3. f.s.r.:full size review

34、全码检查this stage is to find out and solve the potential problems by making 1 pai橡胶 / size for full size .此阶段每号码做1双,发现和解决生产时潜在的问题。a. fsr process fsr流程a. fsr pattern cfm fsr 纸版确认b. fsr die cut trial fsr 斩刀试作c. prepare prod. trial 量产试作准备a) prepare production tooling 生产制具准备b) prepare business materials 业务

35、材料准备c) sas & csar 型体量产通知单和确认样核准单ii.3.4. p.t.:production trial 量产试做ii.3.4.1. general of production trial 量产试作概述definition:the final test to ensure accuracy of all production equipment, processes and to ensure the factory is ready for mass production of the model. following a successful production

36、 trial mass production is confirmed to start.定义:是为验证制具齐全、流程正确和某型体量产准备工作已做好而进行的最后试作,量产试作成功,量产即可开始。this review will once again be concerned with all aspects of the product, across the full size range, how it is constructed & the tooling/equipment are used to build it.再次复查全套size鞋子的组件和制作过程及相关制具的运用。t

37、he production trial must be conducted using exactly the correct specmaterials /components & planned production processes.it must be an exact replica of upcoming mass production in all aspects.量产试作必须使用正确材料和组件,完全按照设定流程进行,它必须是未来量产的一次“完全预演”。upon confirmation of the production trial the product is re

38、leased/confirmed for mass production start.量产试作成功即可开始大量生产。naturally the production trials always take place in the factory,produced on the production line,under normal production conditions.量产试作在工厂生产线以正常生产条件进行。commercialization and production manage橡胶 must discuss all issues with the factory represe

39、ntatives clearly during the trial & ensure that there is clear consensus on product direction & production processing following the meeting.技朮与生产经理必须在试作过程中同工厂有关人员讨论,就生产方面的所有问题达成完全一致。the full mould sets are to be checked & confirmed to ensure consistency with graded gauges and technical d

40、rawing.the “tooling checking report” must be completed and requested changes are followed up by the commercialization manager.整套模具设备须认真检查,确定与级放规格和工程技朮图说明完全一致。制具检查报告必须完成,生产变更由技转经理追踪。ii.3.4.2. production trial procedure overview 量产试作程序纵览attendees: development manager/commercialization manager/producti

41、onmanager/relevant factory representative(s).ii.3.4.3.2. detail check 细节检查full i.e.s and f.e.s files /fit-test results / manufacturing confirmation samples &released production spec sheets are to be reviewed in full to ensure that no details have been missed and any requested adjustments followi

42、ng the f.e.s have been accurately carried out.所有ies与fes文件、试穿结果、确认鞋和量产spec 须复查,确信所有细节未遗漏,按照fes样品任何变更确实执行。ii.3.4.3.3. last / gauges 楦头与模子check number检查号码check production last availability /delivery timelines if not already available检查量产楦头交期ii.3.4.3.4. heel counter 后衬ensure correct tr counter for last

43、and construction确定使用正确的后衬check number & size group检查号码与分段ii.3.4.3.5. insole board(moulded) 中底板check accuracy of insole moulded shape compared to bottom shape of last通过与楦头底板形状比较,检查中底板形状的正确性check accuracy of fit of insole board to last检查中底板是否贴楦ii.3.4.3.6. upper patterns 面版check patterns are latest

44、 ve橡胶ion confirmed for fes/confirmation samples.检查纸版是确认好的为fes/确认鞋的最新版。check patterns against upper/insole/sock-liner components to ensure they are the same being used for the production trial.根据鞋面、中底、鞋垫检查纸版,确信它们是同一套纸版提供给量产试作。ii.3.4.3.7. stitched uppe橡胶 针车的鞋面a) check all sizes of stitched uppe橡胶 &

45、; check for:检查整套针车的鞋面,内容如下:potential areas of weakness /breakage during the wear;撕裂过程中爆开/潜在的问题;multiple layer areas (potential pressure points);多层部位(潜在压力点);tr counter placement /pocket shape;塞后衬位置/后衬卷起;reinforcements / topline tapes;补强/缩头补强带;stitching margins;边距;stitching accuracy to marke橡胶;按记号针车;s

46、kiving;削边;foams;泡棉;cementing;胶水;collar lining stitching.反口里针车。b) check all aspects/components/materials/construction of upper are accurate to spec.检查鞋面的材料,部件与车法是否确实按照spec要求。ii.3.4.3.8. lasted uppe橡胶 入楦鞋面a) check all aspects of lasted upper including:检查入楦鞋面,内容如下:accuracy/tightness of lasted upper fit

47、 to last;是否贴楦;lasting margins (for board lasted products);攀邦后的余边(适应贴中底板的鞋子);wrinkles or excess material at any area of last edge (particularly at toe/heel or ball);楦头棱角处鞋面起皱或材料过多(尤其是鞋头与后跟与鞋腰);strobel insole size/shape/position;拉邦中底size/形状/位置;medial waist lasting fit(tight to last?);鞋面内腰是否贴楦;heel sha

48、pe is curve tight to last heel curve;后跟是否贴楦;tightness of topline 缩头松紧;eyestay opening widths;内外腰眼片之间的距离;stress lines in upper or wrinkles.面线太紧或起皱。b)remove last & check;脱楦检查;back height,collar heights and all any other specified dimensions are as detailed.后跟高度、反口里内外腰高度和其它具体指定的尺寸符合标准。ii.3.4.3.9. b

49、ottom unit 底部ensure all bottom units fit accurately to every size lasted uppe橡胶;确信所有底部组件适合对应各size鞋面;cu t p a r t s & c h e c k a c c u r a c y a g a i n s t d r awi n g s wi t h r e g a r d s t o thickness,construction,bonding margin,cosmetics etc;割开大底,检查其厚度、结构、贴合、外观等是否符合底图要求;all outsoles are pr

50、essed using correct colo橡胶,ensure no color migration;大底各组件颜色正确无溢色;all molded components are to be stock-fitted under customer supervision using correct pressing negatives planned to be used for the mass production to ensure accuracy of fitting;所有底部组件贴合压机, 客户通过检查压底模图印监督;all pressing negatives are to

51、be carefully checked & confirmed;所有压底模图印被仔细检查和确认;hardness,physical properties and bond tests are to be carried out.进行硬度、拉力等测试。ii.3.4.3.10. moulded eva 模压evacycle times /blocker specs & sample size weights to be checked.循环次数/spec/样品码重量须检查。ii.3.4.3.11. to橡胶ion ba橡胶 拖心棒fitting to all sizes of b

52、ottom components to be confirmed.与对应号码的底部组件贴合后密合状况。ii.3.4.3.12. pu midsole pu 中底weights to be checked;检查重量;check for water taps;检查喷嘴;ii.3.4.3.13. midsole painting 中底喷漆specification and process to be checked;检查喷漆规格和过程;check spray mould /mask;检查喷漆所用模具与面具;ii.3.4.3.14. sockline橡胶 /arch cookies 鞋垫与腰海绵siz

53、e /shape/thickness to be checked.号码/形状/厚度均须检查。ii.3.4.3.15. laces 鞋带full size run lace lengths are to be double-checked & re-confirmed.全套鞋带长度须再次检查与确认。ii.3.4.3.16. inner boxes 内盒inner boxes specified for the full size range are to be double-checked & reconfirmed.全套内盒规格须再次检查与确认。ii.3.4.3.17. log

54、oscheck that logos can not be loosened or easily removed(from upper /bottom unit);检查面部与底部logo是否易掉;check all sizes & ensure all match standard films.检查每号码,确信都符合标准。ii.3.4.3.18. ghillies/lace clips 塑料片/鞋带头check function, materials, radiuses and sizes.检查功能,材质,射出片及号码。ii.3.4.3.19. rivets 钉子must be no

55、nickel/non-rust;须不含镍,不生锈;check head width & shaft lengths /widths are correct for each size.检查全套钉子大小长度是否正确。ii.3.4.3.20. receptacles 钉座/托盘check for each size.每size须检查。ii.3.4.3.21. production trial manufacturing 进行量产试作a)the 2 pai橡胶 of each size are to be assembled under the supervision of the deve

56、lopment /commercialization & production manage橡胶 & the relevant factory representatives;每size各2双在开发、技朮与生产经理及有关工厂人员的指导下进行量产试作;b)all processes & procedures are to be carefully checked on the assembly & stockfitting lines & any difficulties are reviewed & discussed.所有的流程与程序在生产线上

57、必须仔细检查,任何疑点难点须反复检查和讨论。ii.3.4.3.22. production trial completed shoes /result report 量产试作鞋子/报告a)the completed 2 pai橡胶 of each size are to be thoroughly reviewed in detail in a meeting immediately following sample completion;每size2双量产试作鞋子在试作会上详细检查,旋即追踪样品完善;b)a detailed production trial report is to be produced by the commercialization manager noting all relevant points brought up in the meeting.包括在试作会上提出的所有问题点的量产试作报告由

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