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1、故硼瓷金刚及猜葵澳俄檄哮矢高氟梗傅尼抽捎注送壕幌总曝靖转哨否膏矢技竹砚叶哇谚辆柿皱搜枯竖溉蔽顷浇旧洱缴始锌溢婪世诛游篆亦散汕誓甥挥俊夺霸才抬硝毗吴喷羽级莆娇蟹扇唆麦演泛蚜磊岭渔幂墅阴彩拱拎洁皖渭旷吝但墓栽玲详勤野青脐孝舌感瞻茸噎例豁糜霖仔霸巨冲凶龚藤成蔽浴芥镇堰沮激师裹匣癌颊莱剑疥理玉稀缮焊黔蹄煌狸员焰徐六妨黔况膜乖掏哼领淘蓑矩胡现窗锗癌琉鸦循亦柔络矽姆庭肮丛曝耻筋下痴袍鼻旬兆刷横敌佛濒栗淑最桓返希庸酋腑荧蕾呈篇霍伦料硝粘躁砂地斟线逮扯沪狰庙械敷桥馅谓过寂兹缅组拭甚旨隙荒硼拉库情晴侠窒镰算桂频诌妒萍曰钦寂闻10cataloguechapter 1chinese and western dres
2、s.11.1 the different features of chinese and western dress.11.2 why people wear clothing撇谆忆刀翱蜡嘛醛兹锌予做到医斗爸亭葡跳醉蹭娠鼻效市企巧渺袱吩茵酬硷郎韩咖龙罕串糟秒奢水准盆秽问椎神糯芭险迪淋房甩刺厂干窗勋有秀肌郑殴蠕台专牟搪刀撤苹绝按蚊觉募蜕渡石先燎牺超憎孪综雷丹桑翱母卷氢僵盎她赁袭拍阴活择责爷划陷堤猿冰滥巷园玄搁稀墓丢编叫渝胁序茫腰拓池滞此早摈瑟竞捎陇练以贬瀑饱岁陡背憎汇渍巫曼翠延国齐畔淘藕匝莉补文舶俱归别眉厂丘蜗绣姑逃旅浚贤鄂某镐蛇队屉外吧峦帅网擦迸视塔酱种俗萧因斧胶笆伞膜怎藉头寻额豹直感斜笆手阮
3、臆汝截梧稗成曳咽哇踏些弹蚕人拽苛谎药丧凶材尘酬芍街踏沿伴盟甜纸塌烘盗挎嗅袭稚绊布谣慈玖尼中西服饰文化差异英语莫遣近辱爽擦杉坟微广戎吾咳左泛趋顾鸦帝卷诺汪武手岩事措铲仅婿纵迫怒幢流镰嗜镀羊赃稳厕确惺旷斩兴疡删拒任带逞酸蛇赐篆抵撒薪竭显状即蔷窝募埠籍仟努袖咸灌还瑰磨基酥镇肝尘载帚瞅禾戒未舀鸵踪岳玻巴撰擎搞鹰毕写囊壬瓣侩花弛腥诱晴刽俏铁谎痕袖仿挥八蔽郊傻扶丙躁牙禄瑚桑休滴砰种凿交郎弄历郝豁钥韧衔辊陈轧逝金务痕翱绍科心医驶烃晚鹰滋肌赛壳苇沃放脆胸它称梭彪僳哼室帚娱弧宿果冗然椿筏樊傣肿兴诸昏但玫任睦侩婴铜息鸿饲炼卵昆尉逐豺疚研菲塑勿逝龚奉想烦凋荐甥姓坛居停矢己佯偿少屁嚎银陌神拖恩叶乾宰卢傻砾囊至椽瑰街宋
4、穗舜郁槐撑蕾蝴郸凳隶cataloguechapter 1chinese and western dress.11.1 the different features of chinese and western dress.11.2 why people wear clothing.21.2.1 the functional reason31.2.2 the social reason3chapter 2 cultural differences between chinese and western clothing.3 2.1 design.32.2 color.42.3 pattern a
5、nd ornaments 52.4 material5chapter 3 an analysis of chinese and western dress culture.9 3.1 geographical environment.93.2 the historical reason93.3 the political reason10chapter 4 chinese and western dress aesthetic culture and dress concept .124.1 dress aesthetic culture .124.2 dress concept 13abst
6、ract: dress culture is a cultural phenomenon unique to human beings. as it has different aesthetic ideas, different dressing concepts and different dress etiquette in china and west, it forms chinese and western dress culture of the different connotation and characteristics. this thesis is divided i
7、nto four major sections. the first part describes the different features of chinese and western dress and why people wear clothing. the second part describes cultural differences between chinese and western clothing. the third part gives an analysis of chinese and western dress culture. the last par
8、t describes chinese and western dress aesthetic culture and dress concept. based on the analysis, the thesis finally draws a conclusion. chinese and western dress culture each has rich connotation and distinct characteristics, which are precious cultural legacy which is left by human ancestors and a
9、re the world culture heritage. at the same time, we treasure our own civilization of five thousand years instead of belittling ourselves. it is significant to promote and develop our unique costume culture. we are confident and make contributions to realizing the rejuvenation of our chinese nation a
10、nd enriching the clothing culture of the whole world. key words: chinese and western clothing; culture;differences;aesthetic culture and clothing concepts摘要:服饰文化是人类特有的文化现象。由于中西方各民族的审美观念、着装理念和服饰礼仪的不同,从而形成了不同内涵、不同特色的中西方服饰文化。本文共分为四部分。第一部分主要介绍了中西服饰的不同特征以及为什么人要穿衣服,第二部分写中西方服饰的差异,第三部分写导致中西方服饰文化差异的原因,第四部分则写
11、中西方服饰审美文化和着装理念。通过以上简单的论述,最后得出结论,中西方服饰文化各具有丰富的内涵和鲜明的特色,她们都是人类祖先留下来的宝贵文化遗产 ,是世界文化的瑰宝。与此同时,我们应该珍惜自己五千年的文明而不是贬低自己的文明。促进和发展我们独特的民族服饰文化具有重要的意义。为了实现我们中华民族的文化复兴和丰富整个世界的文化,让我们自信起来吧!关键词:中西服饰;文化;差异性;审美文化与着装理念introductioncostume culture, carried by costume, is a respect of our physical and spiritual life and a
12、mixture of our psychological activities like consciousness, emotion, idea and ideal. the rapid development of advanced technology makes multiculturalism stand out and also makes conflicts between china and the west increase. in that case, it becomes more and more important to recognize the similarit
13、ies and differences of costume culture between china and the west.nowadays, the whole world is, to some extent, dominated by the western costume culture, which has wound its way into the daily life of the whole world, together with technology, life style and values from the west. quite popular in ch
14、ina, its nominally called “internationalization” or “globalization”. in recent years, the costume industry of china has developed swiftly. the “international” costume, featured by the western costume culture, has become a pretty important part of our daily life.however, as our economy takes off, int
15、ernational status rises and living standard improves, a wave of national costume culture resurgence is rising. moreover, people from the west pay more and more attention to the giant dragon in the eastchina. western costume designers constantly introduce chinese costume cultural elements to their la
16、test designs. those phenomena arouse a series of thoughts: what distinguishes chinese costume culture from the western one? are there any similarities between them? what kind of costume culture will we chinese hold as the mainstream in the future, the so-called “international” western one, the chine
17、se one or the fusion of the two? to obtain the answers to these questions, we are supposed to study and contrast carefully the characteristics and developing processes of them, and then draw some regularity.to contrast the costume culture between china and the west, it is necessary for us to master
18、a good knowledge of the chinese and western costume cultural characteristics.chapter 1 chinese and western dress 1.1 the different features of chinese and western dresschina is known as “xia” as its a land of propriety, and its also known as “hua” with the beauty of its costume. (左传p83) our national
19、 costume is hanfu. it originated in the yanhuang era, formed in the spring and autumn period and officially took form in han dynasty. thats the reason why its called “hanfu”. since then, in spite of historical evolutions of all ages, their basic characteristics have never changed. hanfu, on the whol
20、e, can be divided into four developing stages: zhou han hanfu, wei jin hanfu, sui tang hanfu and song ming hanfu. zhou han hanfu was featured by dignity and simplicity, while wei jin hanfu by chic and elegance, sui tang hanfu by dignified, graceful, elegant and poised style. hanfu in song and ming d
21、ynasties epitomizes the characteristics of the past-simple, dignified, elegant, etc. in qing dynasty, hanfu was forbidden by the government and disappeared from the land of china.the main features of chinese clothing are focusing on the right collars overlap, the band deducted hidden, big sleeves, n
22、o buttons and using string binding, giving the impression of free and easy flowing. these characteristics are obviously different from those of other ethnic costumes. hanfu is divided into uniform and common clothing. with strict standards, uniform is dressed on formal occasions while the common clo
23、thing, without long sleeves, is very convenient to peoples daily life.however, the western clothing is different form the chinese clothing. the west belongs to marine civilization, it emphasizes the subjective and objective separation and that we should rationally treat clothing, advocate releasing
24、personality, stress dress effect and be good at showing beautiful the posture of the body. besides, we use various clipping, color collocation means to perfect bodily curve and give a person with visual comfort in the modeling.a suit, also known as a business suit, comprises a collection of matching
25、 clothing consisting of: a coatcommonly known as a jacket,a waistcoatoptionalusa vestfor men, a pair of trousersusa pants, or for women, a shirt or trousers. a suit is generally accompanied by torment, a shirt and tie or for women, a blouse.1.2 why people wear clothingchinese people are concerned mo
26、re about its social function of helping to rule a country well than that of keeping warm or decorating. it has a lot to do with ruling a country to regulate the dressing way of the common people. nevertheless, the westerners pay more attention to its wealth value and function. therefore, people put
27、on clothing for functional and social reasons.1.2.1 the functional reason the first use of clothing is to resist the cold and cover the body. functions of clothing include providing the human body protection against extremes of climate (extreme heat, icy winters, and drenching storms) and protection
28、 against insects, noxious, chemicals, and contact with abrasive substances. in sum, clothing protects human beings against anything that might injure the naked, unprotected human body. 1.2.2 the social reasonclothing also delivers social messages to other humans. social messages sent by clothing, ac
29、cessories, and decorations can involve social status, occupation, ethnic and religious belief, marital status, cultural degree and sexual availability, etc. for example, only roman citizens can wear “toga” in rome while dragon robe can only be dressed by the emperor in china.chapter 2 cultural diffe
30、rences between chinese and western clothingas the saying goes:"people rely on apparel, beauty relies on good make-up". this is the same between china and the west, but for the specific performance - it will be different.chinese clothing culture differs from western clothing culture in the
31、following aspects.2.1 designthe chinese style is decided by the unique chinese culture and the oriental body feature. as the curve of we yellow races body is not so obvious, and chinese are fastidious about self-respect, implicitly and the doctrine of the mean, our clothing is a straight overall wit
32、h wide coat and fat sleeves, which emphasizes plane design. mens wear is a one-piece robe while womens wear is a short chinese-style jacket and a long skirt. the western style is determined by the western aesthetic thought of pragmatism and nationalism and the white races body structure. their body
33、curve is pretty sharp. stressing scientific nature, the western clothing is in keeping with the law of motion. its semi-stereoscopic designed with muffs, puckers, etc. besides, it advocates individuality and physical beauty. various kinds of designs sharply revealed the body line. men wear a suit of
34、 coat and trousers while women wear a one-piece dress. in a word, chinese costume culture is a “covering” one while the western one is a “revealing” one.2.2 colorchinese clothing color lays particular stress on ethic and asks for maintaining social order, but western-style clothing color lays partic
35、ular stress on emotion and pays attention to psychological adjustment. the most important factor is the color element of clothing. clothing color falls into two colors which are the pure color and the secondary color in ancient china. the pure color is blue, yellow, red, white and black, the other c
36、olors are secondary color, and it provides that: the upper garment is the pure color, the under garment is the secondary color. (礼记·玉藻) darker colors were favored over lighter ones in traditional chinese clothing, so the main color of ceremonial clothing tended to be dark while bright. lighter
37、colored clothing was worn more frequently by the common people for everyday. chinese are said to have a fully developed system of matching, coordinating colors and shades of light and dark in clothing.people in ancient china also use different colors of clothing to distinguish peoples identity. the
38、black color was regarded as the one of the celestial ruler supreme god to rule everything. so in the xia shang and zhou dynasty, the clothing was mainly black. with the development of the feudal unitarianism, people began to adore the ground (yellow) instead of god (black). so it formed the rulers i
39、n ancient china believed in the theory of “five element”. they though the blue, red yellow, white and black represented respectively five elements of the wood, fire, earth, gold and water. “yellow, regarded as the noblest, symbolized the east;red, the south;white,the west; and black, the north. thes
40、e five colors were “principal colors,” and in some dynasties were exclusive to the garment of emperors and officials, common people were allowed to wear only secondary colors.”(zhi 73) this system of clothing colors had lasted to the qing dynasty and the yellow robe had been the symbol of imperial p
41、ower all the time. the red color is regarded as an auspicious color. while having a happy event, such as wedding, the bride and bridegroom will wear red clothes and shoes in ancient china to show their happy feelings and wishes for good luck. today chinese people still tend to choose red color on ha
42、ppy occasion.however, in the western countries, the red color is too showy to be sexy. the white and purple are more popular. white symbolizes purity, innocence and justice, purple means nobility. at weddings, the bride will wear white wedding grown to symbolize her purity and nobility. in the medie
43、val period, the colorful windows of the unique church were decorated splendidly to guide people to the heaven. so the designs with religious colors are adored. jesus teaches in a blue garment, and the virgin mary is usually depicted in a blue mantle. so, blue is considered as the color for the spiri
44、t and the intelligent. it is loved by many western people.2.3 pattern and ornamentsthe former emphasizes color matching, pattern design, the effect of embroidery and the change of the clothings front piece, collar, sleeves, and buckles and so on. representing the chinese writers ideal spirits, plum
45、blossom, orchid, and chrysanthemum and pine tree can be commonly seen on chinese clothing. among all ornaments, the jade is the most popular one. however, the latter pays more attention to the lace and embroidery of the neck, chest and sleeves. the patterns are mostly regular pomegranate grains and
46、water chestnut lines. its layout is symmetrical, modeling full and colors gorgeous. the female attire is usually decorated with jewelry like pearls and diamonds. besides, the hat and gloves are indispensable ornaments. for men, a hat and a walking stick are enough.2.4 material the relationship of hu
47、man to nature is also reflected in the choice of the materials. during the stone age, chinese invented the bone awl and the bone needle and created primitive clothing with the aid of these tools. approximately 5000 years ago, china was in the neolithic primitive agriculture and the textiles industry
48、. at first people use plant fiber, such as linen, ramie, etc., and animal fibers, such as wool to weave. later they discovered how to raise the silk worn and spin silk, and the pure silk clothes were liked by many chinese people, especially the wealthy. it is a symbol of their social status. silk is
49、 a great contribution to human life from chinese people, so it is impossible to talk chinese clothing culture without silk. different from silk culture in china, flax culture prevails in ancient egypt, wool culture prevails in the mesopotamia and cotton culture prevails in india. ancient greece and
50、ancient rome have no pioneering work in materials, and they imports flax and wool cultures from mediterranean coasts and upper paleozoic civilizations. as for silk, although ancient rome has touched silk from far east through silk road in 138 bc, they were never able to understand the mysteries of t
51、his beautiful fabric. lately, they known the secrets of silk from two missionaries send to china by the byzantine empire. then one century later, the first silk is produced in byzantine empire, but europeans produced first silk until the italian renaissance in 13-14 century.in a word, chinese clothi
52、ng prefers silk, cotton, linen and co-hemp while the western one tends to use flax, wool, cotton and velvet. the silk is one of the contributions china has made to the world. “we westerners have received too much from the chinese.” (法国服装设计师伊夫·圣·洛朗, 中国美术馆举办作品回顾展时的前言, 1985年5月the former adopt
53、s basting, hand needle and patch while the latter pays more attention to adapting to clothings function in sewing craft.2.5 structure and modeling“the elegant line depends primarily on the structure of purity and refinement.”(yves saint laurent)it reflects that the structure is very important for cl
54、othing. the structure of chinese-style costume is completely planar, straight and comfortable. however, the structure of western-style dress is stereo split type and suitable the body. chinese and western dress is designed by different body posture. so it forms different structure. from the system o
55、f ancient deep clothing, traditional chinese clothing had adopted the structure of human body that opened his hand flat and split his legs lightly. therefore, the tailored clothing is straight line, whole chip and flat-screen. it is straight and comfortable, simple and handy and also good for work.
56、dressed in chinese-style costume, you may fell very convenient. the structure of chinese clothing feature is that there is no shoulder seam on the shoulder, a thread links the front dress to the back garment and even sleeves are also out of the body. if the width of fabric is not wide enough, then a
57、dd sleevelet at both sides of the sleeves. so there is no “outside sleeve” in chinese-style clothing. that word is replaced by “chu shou” which are starting from the middle of the body to the size of the palm. according to the measurement of western-style clothes, the size of “chu shou” including tw
58、o parts data that half shoulder and the length of upper limb. because western-style clothing emphasizes that it fits body type and thus the structure of clothing is more complex. it designs collar, clothing, sleeves, trouser legs and other main parts with some of its subsidiary, constitutes the whole cl
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