review on the development of western and eastern garment pattern design technique

1、review on the development of western and eastern garment pattern design techniquedue to different cultural and historical background，the technology in western and eastern pattern design is inherently differentalong with the development of technology，garment pattern design technique is making progres

2、s towards high effectiveness and accuracymany researchers proposed different alternative methodologies to improve the current pattern making processesthis article examines the development of western and eastern garment pattern design techniquethe main objective of this article is to provide a thorou

3、gh review and hence a better understanding to those researchers who made contribution on developing pattern design technique and continue their work in the futurekeywords：garment pattern design，western clothing， eastern clothing，draping，drafting，adaptationintroduction apparel pattern design is a“tra

4、ditional art”and it is both science and artpattern design is a process of transforming the design of a garment to the patternin the past hundreds years，it depended on the experiences of a pattern maker much more on flat pattern designing or draping apparel design is usually divided into two categori

5、es-aesthetic and functional designaesthetic design is for appearance onlythe purpose of an aesthetically designed garment is that it is visually pleasingfunctional design deals with a garments physical attributes in meeting specified criteria for particular applicationsin order to meet aesthetic and

6、 functional requirements of a garment，pattern designer must consider aesthetics and anatomy the differences of culture and history led to the difference in philosophies of the western and the eastern pattern design technology there are different emphasis on shape and structure between the western an

7、d eastern patternalthough these methods may overlap，distinct differences exist in the approach to generate the pattern western pattern design expresses body beauty，and creativity of fashion styledraping is the main technique for aesthetic pattern designsince 3一d visualization is the key to the world

8、 of garment style，they attempted to provide a process to garment designers to achieve visualization of design for any given body shape without any predefined pattern detailshence，they have made great progress in computeraided cloth simulation eastern pattern design pays more attention to garment sha

9、pe and fitting of the bodyflat pattern making method is the main technique for pattern designalthough eastern researchers also have achieved a considerable success in threedimensional computer system for automatic pattern making and simulation，they have been working unremittingly on actual drawing f

10、ormula of divisional system for pattern designthey put more efforts in a simpler，quicker and more exact way of cutting flat patterns，by incorporating the draping concept into the flat methodthe pattern design techniquethe method of pattern design is commonly classified as three-dimensional(3d)patter

11、n design technique and two-dimensional(2d)onethree-dimensional(3d)pattern design technique is draping，which is a method that directly implements the pattern design upon the human body or mannequinthe two-dimensional(2d)pattern design is the technique without the use of the mannequin，which includes d

12、irect drafting and adaptationdrafting refers to the pattern maker draws the pattern directly on the paper with a pattern construction method(also known as pattern construction procedure)while adaptation method is that the pattern maker draws the pattern with the help of a set of basic block1draping

13、designers prefer draping because it provides the advantage of what-you-see is whatyougetin the early twentieth century，madeleine vionnet created a half-scale wooden doll that could be used to design and drape bias garmentsby working with draping，a designer gains greater inspiration and indication of

14、 the flow and performance of fabrica designer can also easily see the proportion，fit，balance and style lines of a design，exactly as how it will look on the bodicein todays industry，draping is used in the couture section，where a single garment is required in an exclusive design and where the final ga

15、rment has been considered to fit as accurately as possible on the consumers2direct drafting direct drafting is a popular method for the industrial pattern makers，who need the most efficient way to produce pattern for mass productionthere are two direct drafting methods in use in the industryone is k

16、nown as direct measurement whereby measurements are taken from one point to another on the body itself by using a measuring tapethe measurements thus obtained are then applied to produce a flat，two-dimensional pattern the other method is known as proportionate measurementunder this method, a working

17、“scale”is arrived at whereby one can use it to compute the relative values of the depth and width factors in relation to the bust girththe entire shape of the pattern is determined by a proportion from the measurement3adaptation adaptation is sometimes considered as the most academic technique for p

18、attern making learning，since it emphasizes how many different styles can be generated from the basic blockthree alteration methods are used to generate the pattern，including slash method，seam method and pivot methodalterations by slash method are made by cutting through the interior of the pattern i

19、n approximately the same area that the style requires an adjustmentthe slashed pattern piece is then spread to increase a pattern area or overlapped to decrease an areaalterations by seam method are made by moving the seam lines from the point where a style variation begins to the point where it end

20、salthough the change is apparent only at the pattern edge，the adjustment is incorporated in the area where the style adjustment is necessaryalterations by pivot method are made by obtaining a duplicate of the affected pattern area，then modifications，such as sliding or pivoting over the pattern or tr

21、acing，are used to incorporate the amount of adjustment.history of pattern design culture is the base of fashiona fashion style was affected by climate，custom，epoch ideology and art conceptsdiverse fashion style of each nation and region of the world evolved over timethe differences between the weste

22、rn and eastern fashion style led to the diversity of generation methods of a patternwestern dress is based on the“inside toward outphilosophythe focus is to fit to the human body and then to consider use of fabric to make the clothon contrary，the eastern clothing is made following the“outside toward

23、 in”methodwhich is to consider structure of the cloth firstly and then the human body to be covered1western from the early medieval time，tailoring craft has become known as a very skilled oneit was recognized as a strictlyhandmadecraft，with skill and manpower as the basic elements of its technologyi

24、n those days，a garment was made by the draping method whereby fabric was wrapped around the body and attained its shape and size directlythen the marking was transferred directly to the cloth the earliest garment cutting technology was to draft directly on fabric and measure client by“notched measur

25、ement strip”the tailor did not need to have a sense of anatomy or knowledge of mathematics but an intuitive feeling for the accuracy of his notched measurements and their relationships to his patternsfrom the middle of the 18th century，as the development of ready-to-wear，the tailors began to use ide

26、as of geometry and proportionthe inch tape measure was introduced in the first quarter of the 19th centurythe usage of the tape measurement drew attention to the comparative relationship that exists between the various parts of the bodya new approach to the production of garments was introduced，wher

27、eby drafting systems were used，based on the application of geometrical rules and the principles to the anatomical proportions of the human figure as the development of male bespoke cutting，an amazing number of different drafting systems emerged in the years of 18001850the dominant ones that have sur

28、vived are：divisional systems，direct measurement systems and combination systemsthe systems solely based on proportions of the breast dominated the tailorspublications during the early part of the 19th century，but many cutters regarded these things as illogical and conceived that height was also a fa

29、ctorthey also realized its limitations in the cutting of womens garmentsmost womens garments were constructed from the drafts by direct measurement or combination system during the latter half of the 19th century，ladies tailoring expandedwhilst most tailors created different drafts for each style an

30、d made only minor modifications to the block pattern，the american tailor charles hecklinger identified the possibilities of creating a large variety of styles from a basic patternthis was a technique that was widely adopted by the readyto-wear trade it is clear that garments were more related to the

31、 form of the body as cutters strove to createanatomical drafting systems in the westthis was the breakthrough into the more sophisticated tailoring profession that is known to us today as the clothing industry2eastern based on the eastern culture，the cloth was mainly used to cover up the body figure

32、 and ignore the main characteristics of body，such as japanese kimono, chinese long gown，korean hanbok and indian sari people paid most attention to the overall silhouette but not the body character of fashion styleit is clear that cutting systems used by tailors were simple point-to- point instructi

33、ons that enabled them to cut a flat garment silhouettetherefore, the historical eastern method of pattern design is direct drafting the eastern culture has kept its traditional customs for generationsalong with the development of trading between the west and east，western clothing came into japan fir

34、st, then it began to spread to china and other eastern countries in the 19th centurywhilst dramatic acculturation changes，both political and cultural，occurred in the east，western clothing was popularized after the second world warduring the acculturation period，a rapid expansion of educational oppor

35、tunities，along with increasing contact with western cultures，brought gradual changes in thinking，feeling，and behavior of the eastern peoplethe most visible and rapid change was eastern womens adoption of western-style dressthe tremendous creativity was unleashed by womens emancipation and the mergin

36、g of eastern styles with western fashionable clothing was only a beginningwhen western-style dress was widely introduced into the east，especially china，japan and korea，the east traditional costume gradually disappeared in urban areas among the young people，men，and professional womenwestern countries

37、，especially the united states of america，have become an ever-increasing influence on how eastern women dressthe style of eastern fashion advanced to the fitting traditionally，the garment silhouette in the east is the straight lineafter the introduction of the western clothing，the garment silhouette

38、in the east has been fosteredsuch adoption reflects the acceptance of the new culture and technology of the west by the eastby the start of the 20th century，the education of western clothing production technology was started in the eastin 1928，the first basic block of western clothing was establishe

39、d in bunka fashion college in japanadaptation technique was applied to pattern designas well as draping method was introduced into the easthence，three dimensional shell of the garment began to formsubsequently，plenty of fashion design students with japanese leading the east began to study aboard in

40、europe and brought back european fashion concepts and technology the most important contribution to knowledge for pattern design came from the learning of anthropometry from the west by the middle of the 20th century in japan it was recognized that human body is the basis for producing westernstyle，

41、so draping was popular gradually in garment industryat the same time the eastern pattern makers continued to improve the flat pattern making methodthe bunka basic block did not only get improved further，reflecting the new development of tailoring technology，but also integrated the 3d concept of patt

42、ern design into the flat method which eastern pattern makers have practiced to use and formed the adaptation of that japanese took the leadupon the support of these new technologies，tokyo became the fashion center of the east rapidly，and ascended in world fashion stages in conclusion，in the western

43、pattern design history， the 3d method came out first and then was flat method but in eastern pattern design history，the sequence is just oppositepattern design processes the aim of all pattern construction methods is to produce as perfect a garment as possible to a basic standard of fitting qualitya

44、pparel production is usually divided into two categories，made-to-measure and ready-to-wearin the case of the made-to-measure trade，a ratio of one customer to one garment is the practice，and a good fit of a garment should be providedin the case of the ready-to-wear trade， the aim is to produce a garm

45、ent that will be of a fair to good fit，on a large number of people of a similar size thus，made-to-measure should satisfy individualsdemand and body shapehowever，regard to ready-to-wear，the garment pattern must meet unspecified customer groups， instead of individualshence，any garment products in read

46、y-to-wear must have clear target customer and design the pattern according to the body form character and manner of style of the target customers a century ago，most garments were made by bespoke tailoringa rapid decline began as ready-to-wear garments improved in qualitythe ready-to-wear clothing in

47、dustry developed firstly in the united kingdom，especially in southern england in the 18th centuryfrench，germany， america and etcdeveloped their mass production after thatthey equipped the industry with technical means，the scientific and rational production and management technology，in order to impro

48、ve the product quality and productivity，so as to reduce the production costit became possible to provide affordable clothing for majority of the populationthe bespoke tailoring methods were still used in creation of some high fashion before world war，most clothes purchased in the east were in the tr

49、aditional style and usually were handmade the japanese clothing industry developed very quickly after the war as a later comerjapanese clothing enterprises tried their best to catch upnow，they always occupy the important position in fashion industry both in high fashion and mass production in common

50、 practice，the patterns for a newly designed garment are created by all experienced pattern technologist， made into a garment and worn by a standard modelthis garment may be required to go through various alteration cycles until the fitting is deemed gooda range of sizes is then derived from these sa

51、mple patternsthe entire process from a concept garment to an approved set of patterns can take up to 12 weeks1producing the block pattern in the course of every season，several outlines or silhouettes are accepted as fashionablethese silhouettes are derived from the basic block so that the fitting an

52、d lines are consistentit is a common practice to cut a pattern omitting any style details and consisting of back， front and sleeves for each fashionable silhouettethis pattern，which is so constructed that when it is cut out in linen or calico and pieces joined together into a shell，is formed to fit

53、the target figure，is known as a block patternthe basic shape of each fashion period can change suddenly or evolve slowly；the block pattern is the basic shape that should include information related to the fashionable trend and brand stylethere are two methods for generating the block pattern，namely

54、direct drafting and draping：(1)the direct drafting method：the block pattern is drawn according to the body shape of the target customer using a set of predefined pattern construction rules；(2)the draping method：the block pattern is directly extracted from mannequin using muslin or calicothe mannequi

55、n should match the proportion，size，and fits the target customers the basic shape modeled by drafting or draping will be discussed，adjusted，modified and finalizedthe block pattern is the basic pattern that is used as basis for all adaptation；it has the image of fashionable trend and brand styleto som

56、e extent，the block pattern determines the success or failure of pattern designnormally，producing the block pattern is a timeconsuming work，such as one month，and no completely accurate method exists for drafting good fitted blockso draping is the best method for generating block2generating the style

57、pattern the designer uses the block pattern as a basis for making the style pattern for a design by pattern alteration the basic block is further manipulated to achieve the required stylingit may not only save plenty of time by using the adaptation method but also keep the silhouette consistentit ma

58、y introduce style lines，tucks，gathers， pleats for drapes but still the basic fit of the pattern will conform to the block used a set of patterns is not useful unless it can produce the required fittingthe finished pattern must be made up into a calico toile to check the fittingdefined by natalie bray，the aim of fitting should be：(1)to check the size of the garment；(2)to adjust the fit to the shape of the figure；(3)to check the lines of the style so as to conform to the original design complicated styles may need a number of trials at this