专外-以前课程第9次

2023/1/171CHAPTER19WovenFabrics2023/1/172Keywords全部

Newwords1，3，4，9，11，13，15，16，18，22，24，32，35，45，48，52-54，58，63，68，75，77，82，90-92，95，106，113，116，119，134，139，141，144。2023/1/173

Wovenfabric,withtheexceptionoftriaxialfabric,consistsofsetsofyarnsinterlacedatrightanglesinanestablished已制定的，确定的sequence次序，序列,orpattern式样，图案.Theyarnsparalleltothelengthwisedirectionofawovenfabricarecalledwarpyarnsorends(经纱);thosethatrunperpendiculartothewarp,across(横过，越过）thefabricarecalledfillingyarns,weftyarns,woofyarns,orpicks（纬纱）(Figure19.1).Thetermswarpandfillingarecommonlyusedbyretailersandconsumers:producersaremorelikelytousethetermsendsandpicks.Thetwoedgesofthefabricthatrunitslengtharecalledselvages（布边，边缘）.2023/1/174FIGURE19.1Diagramofwarpandfillingyarnsinafabricproducedonashuttleloom.2023/1/175

Earlyloomswerequitecrude粗糙的comparedwithmodernmechanical机械的weavingmachines,butthebasicoperating运行操作，工作principlesfortheequipmentareidentical同一的，相似的.Thereisasystemtoholdthelongwarpyarnsundertension;thereisamethodforinserting插入，嵌入thefilling;andthereisadevicetopack挤thefillingyarnsintoposition.ThebasicpartsofahandloomarediagrammedinFigure19.2;eachhasaspecializedfunction,orbasicloommotion,toperform履行，执行，完成Figure19.3illustratesthemovementofthetwoharnesses综，综框toformtheshed.2023/1/176FIGURE19.2Diagramofasimplehandloom.综筘梭口卷布辊筘座2023/1/177Weaving

Thewarpbeam（经轴，织轴）,whichholdsthelengthwiseyarns,islocatedatthebackofthemachineandiscontrolledsothatitreleasesyarntotheweavingareaoftheloomasneeded.Thisfunctionisthelet-offmotions（送经）,thefirstoffourprimaryloommotions.Theheddles（综片)arewireormetalstrips条，皮带thatallowcontroloftheindividualends（经纱）;anendispulledthroughtheeyelocatedinthecenterofeachheddle.Theindividualheddlesaremountedinaharness（综）thatallowsthewarpyarnstobecontrolledingroups.Aloomhasatleasttwoharnesses,andmosthavemore.Thenumberofharnessesonaloomhelpsdeterminethecomplexityofthefabricdesignthatcanbeproduced.2023/1/178

Inatwo-harnessloom,everyother每隔，所有其他的warpyarnacrossthewidthofthefabricisinoneharness.Whenthatharnessisraised,halfofthewarpyarnsrisetoproduceanopeningbetweenthetwosheetsofwarpyarns.Thisopening,knownastheshed（开口）,producesapaththroughwhichthefilling（纬纱）isinserted.Theloommotioniscalledshedding（开口）,andtheorderinwhichharnessesareraisedandloweredproducesapatterninthefabric.Inloomscontainingmorethantwoharnesses,thesequencefordrawingendsthroughheddlesandmountingheddlesinharnessesesmoreintricate（错综复杂的，难于理解的）.Inmanycases,groupsofharnessesareraisedandloweredtogether.Averygoodfabricdesignerisneededtoplanthedrawing-in（穿经）ofawarpandthesequencingofharnessmovementsina32-harnessloom.2023/1/179

Thethirdbasicloommotionispickingorfillinginsertion（投梭，引纬）.Formanyyears,fillingyarnwaslaidacrosstheshedwithashuttle.Intoday'sweavingmachines,anotherdevice,suchasajetofairorwater,arapier剑杆,orasmallprojectile,isusedtoplacethepick.Theneachfillingyarnmustbepackedagainstthepreviouslyplacedpick.Thisisplishedbyusingareed(筘),whichisparalleltotheharness,topressthepickintoposition.Thisisthebeat-upmotion（打纬）,thefourthandfinalprimaryloommotion.2023/1/1710

Theclothbeam,orclothroll,locatedatthefrontoftheloom,holdsthecompletedfabric;aseachpickisbeatenintoposition,thefabricjustproducedisrolledontothetake-upbeam.This

take-upmotion(卷取)

isthefinalloommotion:becauselet-offandtake-upoccursimultaneously,theloommotionisusuallyreferredtoas"let-offandtake-up."2023/1/1711SummaryTheMajorMotionsorActionsofloomsareshedding,picking,andbeating-up.Minormotionsonloomsarethetake-up,let-off,andpattern.Thefirstthreemotionsarelinkedtogetherasfollows:

SheddingMotionTheseparatingofthewarpendsintoanupperandlowersystemofthreadstopermittheshuttletopassthroughthespacethathasbeenformed.Thewarpendsaredrawnthroughheddleeyesinthecorrectmanner,andintheturning-overofthecrankshaftoftheloom,ashedisformedwitheachturn.

PickingMotionTheactualpassingoftheshuttlethroughtheshedoftheloom.Theshuttlepassesovertheloweredendsoftheshedandunderitsraisedends.Theshedpermitstheshuttletopassthroughitandtherebymakesitpossiblefortheshuttletodepositthepickorfillingyarn.

Beating-UpTheactualbeatingintoplaceoftheloosepickthatwasplacedintheshedoftheloominthepickingmotion.Beating-upmakeseachandeverydepositedyarnacomponentpartofthewovencloth,Thereedbeatsthispickintoplacewitheachconsecutiveturnofthecrankshaft.

2023/1/1712

Mostfabricsareproducedonweavingmachineswitheightorfewerharnesses:elaborate详尽，复杂精致的fabrics,however,requiremanyharnessandthespecialattachments附件requiredtocontrolgroupsofharnesses,ortheyhavemechanisms机械装置，机构similartocomputercontrolsthatmoveindividualwarpyarntoproducecomplexpatterns.Thesemoreelaboratesheddingmechanismsarediscussedinthesectionsofthischapterdevotedtodobby（多臂）andweaving.2023/1/1713SHUTTLEWEAVINGMACHINESForcenturies,thebasicloomoperatedwitha

shuttletolaythefilling,orpick,yarn(Figure19.4).Bythemiddleofthetwentiethcenturyshuttleloomshaddevelopedtoahighlevelofefficiency,allowingthemtomakefabricrapidlywithreducednumbersof

flaws（织疵，疵点）.Theseshuttleweavingmachinesdependonashuttle,aboat-shaped,metal-tippedcarrier,tosupplyacontinuouslengthoffillingyarnfortheweavingoperation.2023/1/1714

Theyarnisactuallywoundonasmallspindle锭子orbobbin筒管knownasaquill（纡管，纬管）,

whichisplacedinanopeningintheshuttle.Theshuttleenterstheshedandmovesacrossthewidthofthefabrictolaythepick;itstopsattheoppositesideofthefabric;and,afterthatpickisbeatenintoplace,anewshedisformedandtheshuttlereturnsacrosstheloom,releasingyarnfromthequilltoproduceanotherpick.Asthisoperationisrepeated,thefillingyarnisalternatelywovenoverandunderthewarpyarnsatthesidesofthefabrictoformtheselvage2023/1/1715FIGURE19.4Atypicalshuttleloom.Theshuttleis

abouttolayfillingyarnthroughtheshed

(SpringsIndustries,Inc.)

2023/1/1716SHUTTLELESSWEAVINGMACHINESShuttlelessweavingmachineswove17percentmorefabricin1987thantheydidin1982,andTextileWorld

predictsthatshuttleloomswillbeoutnumbered数目超过，比多byshuttlelessweavingmachinesintheearly1990s.Themajortypesofshuttlelessweavingmachinesareprojectilemachines,rapiermachines,andjetmachines,whichuseeitherairorwatertolaythepick.2023/1/1717ProjectileWeavingTheprojectilemachine,diagrammedinFigure19.5,usesasmallbullet-shapedprojectilewithagripper（片梭，夹纱器）thatpullstheyarnoffthesupplypackageatthesideoftheweavingareaandcarriesitacrosstheshed.Onlyenoughyarnforonepassacrossthewidthofthefabriciscarriedacross.Projectileloomswithoneormoreprojectilesareavailable;themultiple-projectiletypeismorecommon.Thesingle-projectilesystempicksupyarnonthesupplysideandcarriesittheentirewidthoftheshed.Afterbeat-uphasoccurred,theprojectilepicksupyarnfromasecondsupplysourceontheothersideandreturnsacrosstheshedtoplacethenextpick.2023/1/1718FIGURE19.5Operatingprinciplesforaprojectileweavingmachine.(Sulzer-Ruti)2023/1/1719

Eachpickisindividuallycut,sothereisnotacontinuouslywovenselvagelikethatproducedbyashuttlemachine.Instead,edgesarefringed（毛边）.Tofinishthem,atucking（摺，包边）deviceisusedonbothsidestointerlacefringewiththelastfewwarpyarnseachedge.2023/1/1720RapierWeaving剑杆

Therapiersystemoperateswitheitherflexibleorrigidmetalarms,orrapiers,attachedatbothsidesoftheweavingarea.Onearmcarriesapicktothecenteroftheweavingarea;thearmextendingfromtheothersidegraspsthepickandcarriesitacrosstheremainingfabricwidth.Newerrapiermachinesarebuiltwithtwodistinctweavingareasfortwoseparatefabrics.Onsuchmachines,onerapierpicksuptheyarnfromthecenter,betweenthetwofabrics,anditacrossoneweavingarea;asitfinishesthatpick,theoppositeendoftherapierpicksupanotheryarnfromthecenter,andtherapiermovesintheotherdirectiontolayapickforthesecondweavingarea,ontheotherhalfofthemachine.Figure19.7diagramstheactiononasinglewidthoffabricforasinglerigidrapiersystem,adoublerigidrapiersystem,andadoubleflexiblerapiersystem.2023/1/1721FIGURE19.7Diagramoftheoperationofthreerapiersystems,Singlerigidrapier.Therapier(alongthinrod)entersthewarpfromtheleftandcarriesonepickacrosstheentirewarpwidth.

2023/1/1722Doublerigidrapiers.Thetworapiersenterthewarpsimultaneouslyandmeetinthecenter.Theleft-handrapiercarriesthepicktothecenterofthewarpandthenhandsitovertotheright-handrapier.2023/1/1723Doubleflexible

rapiers.Sameprincipleasrigidrapiersbuttherigidrods杆，棒arereplacedbyflexiblesteelorplastictapeswhichfollowacurvedpath.2023/1/1724

Rapiermachinesweavemorerapidlythanmostshuttlemachinesbutmoreslowlythanmostprojectilemachines.Animportantadvantageofrapiermachinesistheirflexibility,whichpermitsthelayingofpicksofdifferentcolors.Theyalsoweaveyarnsofanytypeoffiberandcanweavefabricsupto110inchesinwidthwithoutmodification.2023/1/1725Air-andWater-JetWeavingJetweavinglaysapickwitheitherajetofairorajetofwater.Air-jetweavingismorepopularbecausethemachinescostlesstopurchase,install,operate,andmaintainthanrapierorprojectileweavingmachines,andtheairjetcanbeusedonabroadervarietyofyarnsthanawaterjet.2023/1/1726

Air-JetWeaving

Figure19.8depicts描述，描写thebasicstepsinair-jetweaving.Theyarnispulledfromthesupplypackageataconstantspeed,whichisregulatedbytherollers,locatedwiththemeasuringdisk测量指示盘justinfrontoftheyarnpackage.Themeasuringdiskremovesalengthofyarnappropriatetothewidthofthefabricbeingwoven,Aclampholdstheyarninaninsertionstoragearea,whereanauxiliaryairnozzleformsitintotheshapeofahairpinU形发夹.2023/1/1727

FIGURE19.8Operationoftheair-jetloom.(Sulzer-Ruti)2023/1/1728

Themainnozzlebeginsblowingairsothattheyarnissetin开始到来，插入motionassoonas

theclampopens.Thehairpinshapeisstretchedout伸展，伸长astheyarnisblownintotheguidingchannel导纱通道ofthereedwiththeshedopen.Theyarniscarriedthroughtheshedbytheaircurrents（气流）emitted发射，放射bytherelaynozzles接力喷嘴alongthechannel.Themaximumeffectivewidthforair-jetweavingmachinesisabout355cm(140in.).Attheendofeachinsertioncycletheclampcloses:theyarnisbeatenin,thencut,aftertheshedisclosed.Again,someselvage-formingdeviceisrequiredtoprovidestabilitytotheedgesofthefabric.2023/1/1729

Water-Jet

Weaving

Water-jetweavingmachinesarenotusedasfrequentlyasairjets,buttheyarepreferredforsometypesoffabrics.Figure19.9showsafilling

yarnbeinglaidinpositionbyajetofwater.Theprocessisunsuitableforyarnsofhydrophilic亲水的，吸水的

fibersbecausethefabricpicksuptoomuchmoisture.2023/1/1730FIGURE19.9Afillingyarnbeinginsertedbyajetofwateratarateof420ppm.

(SpringsIndustries.Inc.)2023/1/1731

Bothair-andwater-jetloomsweaverapidly,provideforlayingdifferentcolorsinthefillingdirection,andproduceuniform,high-qualityfabrics.Theyarelessnoisyandrequirelessspacethanmostothertypesofweavingmachines.Theycauseminimaldamagetowarpyarnsduringtheweavingoperation,becausetheairorwaterjetsarelessabrasive研磨thanmovingmetalparts.2023/1/1732MISCELLANEOUS混杂的WEAVINGSYSTEMSMultishedWeavingIntheweavingmachinesdiscussedthusfar,onlyoneshedatatimewasformedforpickinsertion.Multishedweaving

ischaracterizedbythenearlysimultaneousinsertionofseveralpicksacrossthewidthofthefabric.Thisrequiresaseparatesheddingmotionforeachpickthatistobelaid.Suchmachinesweaveataphenomenal（显著的）rateofspeed.2023/1/1733

Theprocesstransformsweavingintoacontinuousprocessratherthanacycleofshedding,picking,andbeatingup.Theoperationofmultishedweavingmachinesisbasedonaseriesofwavelikemotionsacrosstheweavingsurface.Ingeneral,fabricswovenontheseloomsdonothaveatrue90-degreeanglebetweenwarpandfilling;thefillingyarnsareslightlyslanted,orskewed[纬斜（织疵），歪斜].Multishedweavingislimitedtospecialtypesoffabrics,butitcanbeexpectedtogainacceptanceintheyarnsahead.2023/1/1734CircularWeaving圆型织机织造Theweavingmachinesdiscusseduptothispointproduceflatfabricwithsomekindofselvageedge.Thereare,inaddition,somecircularweaving

machinesthatproducetubular管状织物fabricsuchaspillowcases枕头套.Suchmachinesnotnew,buttheyarenotwidelyusedbecausethereislittledemandforcircularwovenfabric.2023/1/1735TriaxialWeavingInterlacingpicksandendsat90-degreeanglesproducesbiaxial二轴的,ororthogonal直角的，直交的(perpendicular)structures.Intriaxialweaving,yarnsareinterlacedata60-degreeangle(Figure19.10).Thewarpismountedonbeams横梁abovetheweavingarea(

Figure19.11):thesebeamsrotateandreleasewarpyarnsastheweavingprogresses.2023/1/1736

Thewarpyarnsmoveverticallydownwardtotheweavingzone,wherefromtheirparallelpositionssomeof

theyarnsaretipped倾斜，翻到untiltheyareata60-degreeanglefromtheotheryarns,butstillinthesameplane平面.Fillingisinsertedusingarigidrapiersystem.Thefabricdoesnothaveatraditionalselvagebecausethewarpyarnsformtheselvageastheycrossbackintotheweavingplane.Thewarpyarnsformadiagonal对角线的pathfromonesideofthefabrictotheother,thenreverse倒退，相反andreturntotheoppositeside.Thisisrepeatedforallwarpyarnsduringtheweaving.2023/1/1737FIGURE19.10Diagramoftriaxiaiweaving:shedformation.2023/1/1738

2023/1/1739

2023/1/1740

2023/1/1741Figure19.11Atriaxialweavingmachine.Noticethelocationofthewarpbeams.2023/1/1742

Thefillingyarnsareinsertedandpackedintopositionusingopenbeaterfingers

ratherthanastandardreedinthebeaterframe.Onesetoffingersholdsthepreviousfillingendinpositionwhilethenextfillingisbeinginsertedandthenpackedintoplace.Themajormarketfortrixialfabricsisinindustrialproducts.2023/1/1743WovenFabricCharacteristicsWidthSelvageGrain织物结构Fabriccount织物经纬密度Differencesbetweenwarpandfillingyarns2023/1/1744WidthThewidthandcompactnessofthefinalfabricaredeterminedinlargepartbythespacingofthewarpyarnsacrossthewarpbeam.Thepreparationofwarpbeams,calledwarping,isamultistepprocess.Packagesofyarnsfromthespinningoperationareplacedoncreels(筒子架)toformasectionbeam分条整经

thatcontainssomepredeterminedportionofthewarpyarnsneed­edtoproduceafabric(Figure19.12),2023/1/1745

Theyarnsfromseveralsectionbeamsarethencombinedtoformawarpbeam.Aspartofthewarpingoperation,theyarnsaresubjectedtoaprocesscalledslashing（经纱上浆，浆纱）

inwhichtheyarecoatedwithasizingmaterial.AsshowninFigure19.13(p.198),thesectionbeamsareplacedbehindtheslasher（浆纱机）.Theyarnsaredrawnthroughthesizingcompound混合物，化合物,dried,separated,andwoundontothewarpbeamattheotherendoftheslasher.Thesizingincreasesthestrengthofthewarpyarnsandprovidessomeprotectionfromtheabrasiveactionsofweaving.2023/1/1746FIGURE19.13Windingawarpbeamfromthesectionbeamsthatarebarelyvisibleinthebackground.Protectivesizingisappliedtothewarpyarnsontheslasher.(HoechstCelanese)2023/1/1747SELVAGETheselvageisthefinishededgeofafabric.Incontrasttothecontinuouswovenselvageproducedbytheshuttleloom,theselvageonfabricproducedbyshuttlelessweavingmustbesecured固定，系住inaseparateoperation.Iftheedgeformedonshuttlelessmachineswerenotmodified,itwouldresemble像，类似araveled（纠缠的）pieceoffabricwithlooseyarnendsextendingasafringe【即形成烂边】.Toachievefabricedgessimilartothosemadebyshuttlemachines,variousmethodshavebeenadopted(Figure19.14.p.199).2023/1/1748

Themostcommonedgeisthetuckedselvage回边，折入边,intheshorttailofthepickisreversedandinterlacedwiththelastfewendsoneachsideofthefabrictoproduceaselvagewithtwiceasmanypicksasthebodyofthefabric.Inthermoplasticfabrics,selvagescanbeproducedusingtwoadditionalwarpyarnswrappedleno-weavepattern,thenheat-treatedtoproduceasealededge封边.Somemachineslayanarrowlineofadhesiveorresinalongtheedgetosealtheyarnsandpreventraveling.2023/1/1749GRAIN

Fabricgrain（织物结构）

isatermusedinapparelconstructiontodescribetherelationshipbetweenfillingandwarpyarnpositionsinawovenfabric.Thedirectionofthesheetofparallelwarpyarnsisthelengthwisegrain纵向结构.

Thecrosswisegrain横向，交叉

followsanysinglefillingyarnperpendiculartotheselvage.Fabricsinwhichthewarpandfillingyarnsinterlaceatrightangles（90度）isreferredtousbeingongrain（）(Figure19.15,p.199).Warpandfillingyarnsthatdonotintersectatrightanglesproduceeitherabowed（弓纬疵布）oraskewed（纬斜的）

fabric.2023/1/1750FIGURE19.15Designationoffabricgrain.Refertothispictureonp.1992023/1/1751

Bowedfabrics（弓纬疵布，织物横列弓形）

haveafillingyarnthatisperpendiculartotheselvageateachsidebutdoesnotfollowanimaginary(假想的)straightlineintersecting横断thetwoselvagepoints;instead,itcurves.Skewedfabrics纬斜，歪斜

haveafillingyarnthatisnotperpendiculartothewarpyarnattheselvage,butintersectsthewarpatsomeotherangle.Thetermbias斜裁剪isusedinthecuttingandsewingtradetodescribethediagonaldirection斜向ofafabric.Wovenfabrichasthegreateststretchinthetruebias正斜direction,whichisexactly45degreesfrombothfillingandwarpyarns.2023/1/1752FABRICCOUNT

Fabriccount（织物经纬密度）isthenumberofwarpyarns(ends)andfillingyarns(picks)inagivenlengthoffabric.Thefabriccountisusuallyexpressedasyarnspercentimeteroryarnsperinch:yarnsperinch英寸ismorecommonintheUnitedStatesThegeneralprocedureistolistthewarpcountfirst,thenthefillingnumber(forexample,90x70),orthetotalofthetwo(160).Whenthenumberofendsperinchisapproximatelythesameasthenumberofpicksperinch,thefabriccountisconsideredbalanced;whenthenumberofyarnsperinchdiffersconsiderablybetweenthewarpandfilling,thecountisunbalanced.

Fabricswithbalancedcountsarcmorelikelytohavesimilarpropertiesinbothdirectionsofthefabric.2023/1/1753DIFFERENCESBETWEENWARPANDFILLINGYARNS(区别经纬向)Severalcharacteristicsdifferentiatethewarpandfillingyarnsinafabricsample.Whentheswatch（小块样布）hasaselvage,itiseasytodistinguishthewarpyarnsbecausetheyareparalleltotheselvage,whereasthefillingyarnsareperpendiculartoit.Mostswatchescutfromapieceoffabric,however,donotcontainaselvage,theidentificationesmoredifficultIngeneral:2023/1/1754

Fabricsstretchslightlymoreinthe

fillingdirection纬向.Warpyarnsusuallyarestrongerthanfillingyarns.Warpyarnshavemoretwistthanfillingyarns.Simpleplyyarnsaremorefrequentlyusedinthewarp.Noveltyyarnsaremorelikelytobeusedasfillingyarns.2023/1/1755BasicWeaves

PLAINWEAVE（平纹织物）Theplainweave,thesimplestformofyarninterlacing,isproducedbythealternatesheddingofwarpyarnstoprovideafabricinwhicheachpickpassesoveroneendandundertheadjacentend.Thenextpickinsertedreversestheinterlacingsothatitpassesovertheendsthatwereabovetheprecedingpickandunderthewarpyarnthatlaybeneath在之下theprecedingpick.Figures19.16and19.17areillustrationsoftheplainweave.Figure19.18is

referredtoasapointdiagram点图.Eachblacksquarerepresentsthewarpyarnonthefabricface.Theseriesofsquaresparalleltotheverticaldiagram(andthelengthofthepage)shouldbevisualized形象化，想象asthewarpdirectionofthefabric,andthehorizontalrows水平行representthefillingdirection.

2023/1/1756FIGURE19-16Magnificationoftheplainweave.(AmericanTextileManufacturersInstitute)2023/1/17