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1、DEGAS INVESTMENTS LIMITEDQ.C看货手册DATE: 2004/8/9INTRODUTION: GARMENT INSPECTION ( 制衣成品检查程序)An In-Line Inspection of work in process must be conducted, as well as a final inspection.中期检查的程序跟末期检查大致上相同,但要跟进中期的检查报告要点。Before starting in-line inspection, the following check should be carried our first:在查中期时
2、,应先查以下几点:-checking fabric-查布-check all colorways of order-查布色-check Emb/Print (if any)-査车花/印花(如果有)-check stretch strength-查拉力是否接受-check thread color-查线色-check accessory/trims查物料-check weight of knit garment, if it is a knit garment-如果是针织衫,查重量-check guage-查针数-check seam strength-查骨位是否合适Garment Inspec
3、tion will include the areas of :成衣上检查包括范围:Measurement ( 尺寸 )Workmanship (手工)Labeling ( 商标 ) Packaging (包装)AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) guidelines will be used to determine whether a sample lot is accepted or rejected.用标准指示决定来接受或拒接受。DEFINITION OF MAJOR DEFECTS主要疵点定义Any defect that affects the garme
4、nts appearance, serviceability, or wearability to a degree that it should be objectionable to the retail of ultimate customer, and is therefore, capable of becoming a return garment. 任何影响衣服外观,适用或穿着性的疵点导致顾客零售上拒接受,因此而退货。 DEFINITION OF MINOR DEFECTS 次要疵点定义Any defect that is not in accordance with speci
5、fied methods, construction specifications or sundry specifications that would not be noticed by and would not be objectionable to the retail or ultimate customer, and is therefore, not capable of becoming a return garment.任何缺点是没有祥尽方式,整体上的或成品上外观的缺点而形成退货,不能接受。 DEFINITION OF DEFECTS 疵点定义Any deficient a
6、rea of fabric, assembly, pressing, cutting and / or construction of a garment that adversely affects the appearance, wearability or serviceability. Defects can occur in the following area:任何布的缺点范围,组合,熨,裁或组织感到成衣上的外观穿着或服饰上,缺点范围包括Fabric (布)Cutting (裁)Assembly ( 组合 )Washing ( 洗水) Pressing ( 整熨 )Final Pa
7、cking ( 最后包装材料)Rescreen ( 包装底面加纸隔板)IN-LINE GARMENT INSPECTION ( 中期成衣检查 ) Purpose of In-Line Inspection( 中期检查目标 )The purpose of inspection while work is in process is to identify and resolve issues in garment manufacture before they result in garment rejects, when the whole garment has finished produ
8、ction,.检查目标进行时,厂方要知道检查报告上的不接受程度,在生产未完成之前就要解决问题。It is important at this stage for quality inspectors to work with the factory supervisors and operators in order to insure quality from the beginning of the manufacturing process. Lets get it right the first time!这是对检查员和厂方负责人进行的质量控制,让我们第一时间去做。The Degas
9、Quality Inspector must document all discrepancies on the Inspection Report, and review the Inspection Report with the Factory Manager as well as the Reflex Quality Control Supervisor and Merchandiser Manager.检查员必须查阅文件上的细节和检查上的缺点,要和厂方改善质量和报告给验货主管及跟单经理。The Factory Manager should receive a copy of the
10、Inspection Report and should sign a copy acknowledging its receipt.厂方负责人一定要有一份检查报告副本和有厂方签署。Copies of all Inspection Reports must be filed in the Quality Control Inspection folder for the Reflex Production Order.合同上一定要有一份检查副本和质量控制也要存一份检查报告。All discrepancies discovered during In-Line Inspection must b
11、e repaired and must be reviewed again during Final Inspection.所有中期检查后的缺点一定要在末期检查之前修改好。 Fabric Inspection at Manufacturing Factory ( 在厂方检查布料)When fabric is delivered to the Factory that will be Manufacturing Degas garments, it must be inspected by the Factorys Staff using the Four Point System.当布料送到工
12、厂预备做货时,厂方人员要跟上述的四个要点检查。Degas will not conduct fabric inspection unless requested to do so by the Manufacturing Factory. The Reflex Quality Inspector should, however, audit the factorys quality control procedures.除非有必要,否则不会引进布料到工厂,公司检查员只有跟厂方的进行程度。 Sample Size Guidelines for In-Line Inspection( 中期检查目标
13、数量)If all sizes and colours are not available at the time of In-Line Inspection, then as many sizes and colour as possible should be inspected.如果在中期检查时,只有部分的颜色和数量,则尽可能地多查一些尺寸和数量。 The quantity inspected by size and colour should be noted on the Inspection Report. 检查的数量和颜色必然要记录在报告上。 Measurement Guidel
14、ines For In-Line Inspection ( 中期检查上的尺码目标指示) Measure all measurement points given in the garment specification on at least one garment of the sample. 检查所有尺码和最低要每码有一件衣服要量度。 Therefore, measure at least the Major Measurement point on the balance of the garments. 所以最低限度有一个平均尺码在报告上看到。All Point out of tole
15、rance must be reported immediately to the Factory Manager for repair and prompt resolution.所有尺码上的要点立即要通知厂方负责人去修改。 Workmanship Guidelines for In-Line Inspection(中期检查手工上的目标指示)The following guidelines should be observed for In-Line Inspection of garment workmanship:以下目标指示手工上的检查:Use the Major / Minor De
16、fect Guidelines found in this manual for the particular garment type being inspected.用这本检查指南上的指示来用严重/不严重去检查衣服上的细节。The same sample lot used for measurement Inspection can be used for workmanship evaluation.检查数量尺码和手工质量相同。Four of the same type of Minor Defect counts as one Major Defect. For example:四个普
17、通的缺点当作一个严重的缺点。例如:Four oil spots under 1/2” in diameter found in Zone B on a single pair of pants counts as a Major Defect and, therefore, a garment rejection.四个油污少过1/2 寸面积在图中B 部位且在一件衣服上,视为严重而不接受。If the four oil spots are found on two, three, or four garments, this will count as one Major Defect for
18、AQL purposes. The garments may be acceptable, however, after spots are removed by the factory.如果四个油污是在2,3 或4 件衣服上,而当作一件严重处理,如是的话,依照AQC的指示上接受,当然,要在工厂去除污点之后。One Major Defect equals one garment reject.一件严重的缺点代表衣服上的退货。2)FINAL INSPECTION ( 末期检查 ) 2.1 Purpose of Final Inspection ( 末期的检查指示 ) No order may s
19、hip without before passing final inspection. Final Inspection includes evaluation of workmanship, measurement, labeling and packaging. 没有一个合同是不需要检查,末期检查包括手工,尺寸和包装。 2.2 Final Inspection Process ( 末期检查程序 ) The Final Inspection Process is as follows: 以下是末期检查的程序: The Quality Control file for the order m
20、ust be reviewed, including the Purchase Order, Garment Specification, and In-Line Inspection Report.在检查前一定要看回中期的检查报告记录和包括尺码表。All defects discovered during the In-Line Inspection had to be corrected.所有检查看在中期的报告上是否有修改。Final Inspection of Garments may begin when at least 80% of finished merchandise is
21、packed in cartons.在末期的检查货物一定要有80% 完成包装好。The Degas Quality Inspector must document the Final Inspection on the Inspection Report Form.检查员一定要看清楚文件上的和做好检查报告。The Factory Manager should receive a copy of the Inspection Report and should sign a copy acknowledging its receipt.厂方负责人要有一份检查副本和要签回一份检查报告。2.3 If
22、 An Order Is Rejected(如果合同不接受)The Degas Inspector must immediately contact the Quality Control Supervisor or Merchandising Manager as well as the Factory Manager.检查员要立即报告上级和跟单员及厂方负责人。The Quality Control Supervisor or Merchandising Manager must immediately notify the senior Merchandising Manager or D
23、irector responsible for the order.检查部负责人或跟单经理要立刻通知高级跟单经理或董事处理这合同。The Quality Control Supervisor may require a more extensive inspection of the order. This should be done only with the factorys participation and is the order can be repaired and shipped within the delivery requirements.检查部经理可要求延长检查合同,
24、但要和厂方研讨和得到船期可延长。2.4 Sample Size Guidelines For Final Inspection(末期检查数量指示)During Final Inspection, workmanship and measurement of the garments must be examined. The number of garments that should be examined depends upon the size of the order.当末期检查,手工和尺码要检定及合同上的数量。The following ( Figure 1) should be
25、used as guideline for determining Final Inspection Sample Size:A Q L LEVEL ( 查货的标准规格 )LOT SIZEP.O 数目SAMPLING SIZE抽查数目MAJOR 严重AQL MAX.(2.5)MINOR 轻微(普通)AQL MAX(4.0)51 - 90201191 - 1502012151 -2803223281 -5005035501 - 120080571201 -32001257103201 - 10000200101410001 - 35000315142135001 - 15000050021211
26、50001 -5000005002121500001-OR MORE5002121SECOND INSPECTION ( A.Q.L LEVEL I NORMAL )LOT SIZEP.O 数目SAMPLING SIZE抽查数目MAJOR 严重A.Q.L MAX (2.5)MINOR 轻微(普通)A.Q.L MAX(4.0)51 - 9050091 - 150501151 - 2802011281 - 5002012501 - 120032231201 - 320050353201 - 10000805710001 - 3500012571035001 - 1500002001014Figur
27、e 1, Final Inspection Sample Size and AQL Level.指示 末期检查数量和标准。 Remarks: Four (4 ) Minor equal to one ( 1 ) Major四个普通的代表一个严重缺点。The above figure provide the AQL Standard for accepting or rejecting the sample batch:上述目标指示AQC标准接受和不接受数量一组表。The number appearing in the accept column reflect the maximum numb
28、er of rejects for AQL Level in order to accept the sample.数量显示合同上的接受量和超过不接受的接受数目。The number appearing in the reject column reflect the minimum number of rejects for AQL Level in order to reject the sample.数量显示合同上的不接受数和最少的超过AQL的合同不接受数目。Once the appropriate sample size has been determined, the Degas i
29、nspector should select sample garments by randomly opening closed cartons.从一决定性的数量目标来决定检查员要开箱抽查货物。The sample must be evenly distributed across all sizes and colours in the order. This will necessitate random selection of several cartons for smaller orders, in order to have a representative sample of
30、 all sizes and colours for the order.检查数目要经过合同上的颜色及数量,分得令衡量抽查合同上的细数。If the number of reject garment is equal to or greater than the sample rejection number for the AQL Level, then the lot will be rejected.如数量上的拒受数目或拒受数超过AQL的指示目标,这合同不会接受。2.5 Measurement Guidelines For Final Inspection(末期尺码指示检查)Measur
31、e all measurement points given in the garment specification on at least one garment of the sample.检查所有尺码而最少一件是近货办的要求。 Thereafter, measure at least the Major measurement points on the balance of the garments in the sample. 之后, 检查最少于一件是严重的跟办不同的尺码。The Major measurement points will be defined by the Qua
32、lity Control Supervisor.严重的尺码要点决定于检查部经理。Record on the Inspection Report all points of measure that are out of tolerance as well as the amount by which those points are out of tolerance.检查报告上的尺码超乎检查指示和数量超过限制量。Inaccuracy of each shipment packing should be 0%, otherwise shipment will be rejected if the
33、 inaccuracy of label and packing is over 0% inspector should request factory to check all the garments again before another Final Inspection is conducted.如有不正确的包装,要求厂方重做,另安排下次检查。LABEL GUIDELINING FOR FINAL INSPECTION(末期商标检查指示)The following guidelines should be observed for Final Inspection of garmen
34、t labelling:以下是末期的商标检查指示:Verify the correctness of the care and content label by comparing the language on the label to that on the purchase order.检查正确的商标和成份和比较合同上的要求。The placement of all labels must be according to the garment specification.商标位置一定要依照指定上的位置尺码。PACKAGING GUIDELINES FOR FINAL INSPECTIO
35、N(末期包装指示)The following guidelines should be observed for Final Inspection of garment Packaging:以下是末期成衣上的包装指示:Verify the accuracy and completeness of the carton markings, including the Degas Purchase Order Number, Articleor cataloge Number, Quantity, Size, Colour, and .检查卡通箱上的完全正确印法,包括公司合同上的号码,款号,数量,
36、码号,颜色。Only the cartons handled for Final Inspection need to be inspected.单独末期检查卡通上的需要。For Mail Order customer: no mix colour/size in a carton邮购单不能单色单码GARMENT DEFECTS: ( WOVEN ) STITICHING DEFECTS:Hole of any size, repaired or not Major衣服上有洞或针洞 严重Attached Sewing Threads up to 1/4” Minor重车线超1/4寸,线头不超1
37、/4寸 普通Attached Sewing Threads up to 1/4”(collar area) Major领范围线头不超1/4寸 严重Attached Sewing Threads up to 1/2” ( inside garment) Minor衣服内线头 普通 Attached Sewing Threads over 1/2” ( outside garment) Major衣服外线头不能超1/2寸 严重Attached Threads under 2” ( inside garment) Minor衣服内线头短过2寸 普通Run Off Stitches up to 1/4
38、” ( inside garment) Minor车缝漏位1/4寸(衣服内) 普通 Run Off Stitches over 1/4” ( outside garment) Major车缝漏位1/4寸(衣服外) 严重Needle chews up to 1 per inch Major重针位线超1寸 严重Margin Variation, Needle to Needle or Needle to Edge up to 1/4” Minor针线位走斜1/4寸 普通Margin Variation, Needle to Needle or Needle to Edge over 1/4” Ma
39、jor针线位走斜超过1/4寸 严重Single Needle Lockstitch with up to one skip per inch Minor锁线跳针位 普通1 or More Skip on Chain Stitch, 2 or More Skips per inch on lockstitch Major锁线跳针位超过2 针 严重Stitch Count Variation over two skips per inch Major平车针位跳超过2针在1寸内 严重Raw Edge, Open Seam Major爆边或爆口 严重Sewn in pleat up to 1/8” M
40、ajor车缝上有褶位1/8寸 严重GARMENT DEFECTS: ( KNITS) 针织Hole, Dropped Stitch, not repaired Major破孔,空线。 严重Improper repair slightly Major不正确的修改。 严重 Attached linking threads Minor衣服上的连续线。 普通Attached threads under 2” ( inside garment) Minor缝线不超过2寸(衣服内) 普通 Skip stitch over 1” or any skip in a chainstitch Major任何的跳线
41、。 严重 Raw edge or open seam Major 破口或爆线 严重Incorrect tension Major不正确的弹力位置。 严重 Misaligned inserted, pockets gussets, over 1/4” ( Sweater) Major缝袋线松位超过1/4寸。 严重Biased pattern over 1” side to side Major图样偏斜不正中超过1寸。 严重Pattern and garment asymmetric more than 1” ( Sweater) Major 图样织位超1寸 ( 毛衣 ) 严重Needle per
42、foration Major衣服上的针孔。 严重Pull loops, snags Major衣服上的纱织成的大细圈,驳位。 普通Any missed linking / looping more than 1 per inch ( Sweater ) Major漏缝位超标准寸。( 毛衣) 严重Mismatched stripes on side seam up to 1/2” Major衣服上条子不对称。 严重Mismatched plackets on side seam over 1/4” Major衣服上筒位不对称。 严重Shaded parts Major不同色的位置。 严重Any
43、pattern errors ( Sweater ) Major 毛衣的图样不对称。 严重Barre, bent needle, slubs up to size of loop Major死痕,车缝走弯,纱头。 严重Slubs larger than loop 3GG 5GG 7GG up ( Sweater) Major毛头粗大超过3,5,7GG。 ( 毛衣) 严重Knots in yarn ends up to 1/2” ( Sweater ) Major毛纱驳口毛头1/2 寸。 ( 毛衣) 严重Knots in yarn ends over 1/2” ( Sweater ) Major
44、毛纱驳口超过1/2 寸。 (毛衣) 严重Poor press Major不好的熨工 严重Cleaning gun rings Major衣服上的喷枪孔 ( 打污渍的枪) 严重Broken stitches Major断线 (车缝位) 严重Oil, stains Major油污渍。 严重Incorrect size label / Care label Major不正确的唛头位置(商标) 严重Incorrect polybag / Wrong ticket Major正确的胶袋,挂牌。 严重SIZE MEASUREMENT TOLERANCE ( WOVEN )PANTS / SHORTS TO
45、LERANCE MORE LESSWaist ( Relax ) 腰(平度) +1 -1 CMSHip 坐围 +1 -1 CMSFront Rise 前浪 +1/2 -1/2 CMSBack Rise 后浪 +1/2 -1/2 CMSLength 长度 +1-1/2 -1 CMSBottom 脚 +1 -1/2 CMSSIZE MEASUREMENT TOLERANCE (KNIT)Waist 腰 +1 -1 CMSHip 坐围 +1 -1 CMSFront Rise 前浪 +1/2 -1/2 CMSBack Rise 后浪 +1/2 -1/2 CMSLength 长度 +1-1/2 -1 C
46、MSBottom 脚 +1 -1/2 CMSSIZE MEASUREMENT TOLERANCE ( WOVEN ) 梭织(A) SHIRTS, BLOUSE, PYJAMA, VEST, SLEEPSHIRT: TOLERANCE 恤 女恤 睡衣 背心 睡袍 MORE(多)LESS(少)Chest 胸 +1-1/2 -1 CMSWaist 腰 +1-1/2 -1 CMSBottom 脚 +1-1/2 -1 CMSShoulder 肩 +1 -1/2 CMSAcross Chest 胸横 +1/2 -1/2 CMSAcross Back 后横 +1/2 -1/2 CMSArmhole 夹圈 +
47、1 -1/2 CMSSleeve Length 袖长 +1-1/2 -1 CMSCuff 袖口 +1 -1/2 CMSCollar 领长 +1/2 -0 CMSBack Length 后长 +1 -1 CMS (B) JACKET: 外衣Chest 胸 +2 -1 CMSBottom 脚 +2 -1 CMSShoulder 肩 +1-1/2 -1 CMSArmhole 夹圈 +2 -1 CMSSleeve Length 袖长 +2 -1 CMSCuff 袖口 +1-1/2 -1 CMSCollar 领长 +1-1/2 -1 CMSBack Length 后长 +2 -1 CMS SIZE ME
48、ASUREMENT TOLERANCE ( KNIT ) 针织 TOPS & BLOUSE TOLERANCE MORE (多) LESS(少)Chest 胸 +1-1/2 -1 CMSWaist 腰 +1-1/2 -1 CMSBottom 脚 +1-1/2 -1 CMSShoulder 肩 +1 -1/2 CMSArmhole 夹圈 +1 -1/2 CMSSleeve Length 袖长 +1-1/2 -1 CMSCollar 领长 +1 -1/2 CMSBack Length 后长 +1-1/2 -1 CMSZONE CHEST LISTGarment defects are ranked according to degree of variation from standard. Such variation ma
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