中国传统服饰文化（英文版）

1、Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureContentsTwo fundamental styles of Chinese traditional costumeEvolution and traits of Chinese traditional costumeTraits of Chinese ancient womens make-up Chinese ancient shoesChinese traditional costume and make-up culture一、Two fundamental styles（一）The Y

2、i (shirt) and Shang (skirt) system (上衣下裳制)This is the earliest style of our costume system, it stemmed from the era of Huangdi, which has a great impact on our modern life.Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureChinese traditional costume and make-up culture（二）Sewn-up system(衣裳连属制)Also calle

3、d shenyi, a type of Han Chinese clothing commonly worn from the pre-Shang periods to the Han Dynasty. The yi (衣, shirt)and shang (裳, skirt) of the shenyi is sewn together. The form of shenyi has a great influence to the late costume, even to our todays dress, such as one-piece dress二、Evolution and t

4、raitsChinese traditional costume and make-up cultureXia, Shang and Zhou PeriodsIn these periods, the wearing of people obeyed the Yi and Shang system. Shenyi system started from Zhou Period. These two systems had a deep influence on later ages. Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureThe spri

5、ng and autumn periodThe occurrence of Hufu and the prevalence of Shenyi are the most important change in costume. Wars in the spring and autumn period promoted the evolution of Han costumes broad shirt, long skirt and tunic. In order to enhance the armys strength, Wu Ling King of Zhao State introduc

6、ed Hufu into Central Plain, this was the first costume evolution in history. Hufu is the garments worn by Tartars or those who lived in the Western Regions, itconsisted of narrow sleeved shirt, long trousers and boot. Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureHan DynastyChinas complete code of

7、costume and trappings was established in the Han Dynasty. The costume code of the Western Han Dynasty followed the one established in the Qin Dynasty. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, people in black had to wear purple silk adornments to match their clothes. The Western Han Dynasty implemented the Shenyi

8、 (long coat) system, which featured a cicada-shaped hat, red clothes and “田-shaped collar. In addition, people of that time wore jade articles(玉器) and red shoes.Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureTang DynastyThe dress style in Tang Dynasty is open. Womens dress and personal adornments of

9、 the Tang Dynasty were outstanding in Chinas history. The clothing materials were exquisite, the structure was natural, graceful and elegant, and adornments were splendid. Though the forms of garments were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty, they were influenced by culture

10、s and arts of the Western Regions. Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureSong DynastyThe style of costume in Song Dynasty tended to conservative, impressing people with the feeling of simple, pure and elegant. Narrow, long, thin are the main characteristics of womens clothing.Chinese tradit

11、ional costume and make-up cultureMing DynastyThe costume in Ming Dynasty basically followed the style of Tang and Song Dynasties, but there were some differences in sizes of shirt and skirt. Narrow sleeved shirt, long skirt and manteau prevailed in the early years of Ming Dynasty. Broad long sleeved

12、 shirt and short skirt prevailed in the middle years of Ming Dynasty. While in the late of Ming Dynasty, the narrow long sleeved shirt was popular with women. The styles of the costume were the imitation of the dress of cocotte, which traits were plain and elegant.Chinese traditional costume and mak

13、e-up cultureQing DynastyCheongsam, the most famous Chinese costume all over the world, is the typical dress in Qing Dynasty. In that time, Manchu women worn cheongsam, waistcoat and flowerpot shoes, while Han women still worn in style of Ming Dynasty. But then, the costume of Manchu and Han affected

14、 each other and had great changes.三、Chinese ancient shoes Clog(屐,ji), a kind of shoe with wood sole, is created in the Spring and Autumn Period by Jin Wen Gong; Boot(鞾,同“靴”), similar to our todays boot, introduced in Central Plains by Wu Ling King of Zhao State(赵武灵王) in the late Warring States Perio

15、d;There are several styles of “shoes” in ancient times.Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureXi(舄), an ancient shoe with double soles, usually worn in formal occasions;Straw sandals(屦,ju), popular before Han Dynasty, made of straw;Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureLv(履), popula

16、r after Han Dynasty, made of silk;Shoe, different from the shoe we wear today, popular after Song Dynasty, made of flax.Chinese traditional costume and make-up culture四、Ancient womens make-up（一）Methods and instruments of ancient make-upFloral-patterned trinket(花钿 Huadian)Some kinds of trinket pasted

17、 in the middle of eyebrow and on face. It is also called Plum blossom make-up or Shouyang make-up. It is very popular in Tang and Song Dynasty.Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureThe material of Huadian is abundant, such as gold leaf, paper, fish scale, even wing of dragonfly. Beside the

18、winter-sweet, the shape of Huadian includes bird, fish, dark and so on.Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureLipstick It was very popular with women in ancient times, for painting on lips could enhance the effect of flesh brilliance, which impressed people with the feeling of health, young

19、and energetic. The style of lipstick was variety, but there was a trait in common, that they all judged the little mouth as the standard of beauty, so ancient women painted little on their lips.Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureLip styles in each dynastyChinese traditional costume and m

20、ake-up cultureFace powderPowdering on face has already used by Chinese ancient women and it is a most usual way of make-up. According to the historic record, the cost of face powders that Tang Ming Huang purchase for Yang Gui Fei had been billions tael. Ancient people not only connected face powder

21、with beauty, but also with moral cultivation Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureE HuangAlso called Ya Huang，named after the yellow pigment that ancient women painted in the middle of forehead. It originated in the Northern and Southern Dynasties, and was popular in Tang Dynasty, but had

22、faded away from our modern life. Chinese traditional costume and make-up culturePencil the eyebrow This is the most popular and common way of make-up, which stemmed from Warring StatesPeriod. Penciling the eyebrow is widely used and developed in Han Dynasty. It was a fashionto pencil the eyebrow sho

23、rt and broad in Tang Dynasty, which looked like leaves of cherry bay or wing of moth. Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureEvolution of eyebrow in Tang DynastyChinese traditional costume and make-up culture（二）Traits of make-up through the agesChinese traditional costume and make-up culture

24、Qin DynastyQin dynastys women liked an orange make up. They highlighted the middle of eyebrow, painted eyes long and fuscous. Lips were cherry-shaped and their colors focus on ruby.Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureTang DynastyTang dynastys folkway was very open. So there was a variety

25、of womens make-up. People considered white skin as beauty. Therefore classical white make-up started to appear. Women powdered and put rouge on cheeks to make their faces pretty. In later period, Yang Yu Huan even invented floral-patterned trinket(花钿). At the same time because of the deep influence

26、by Hu custom, natural beauty without make-up once prevailed for a period of time.Chinese traditional costume and make-up cultureSong DynastyComparing to Tang, Song dynastys folkway was very conservative. White make-up(白妆) and floral-patterned trinket(花钿) almost faded away. A simple and elegant make-up was popularized. Yuan dynastyDiffering from the former dynasties, the make-up in Yuan was m