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1、目录01课Cotton Growing棉花种植102课Cotton Properties and Uses棉纤维的特性和用途204课Wool羊毛505课 Structure and Properties of Wool羊毛纤维的结构和性能706课 Silk丝绸1007课 Flax亚麻1309课 Rayon人造丝1612课YARNS1913课 纱线结构和织物外观的关系2021课 精纺和粗纺2225课 络纱2327课 整经2633 课 织机3440课 蓬勃发展的非织造布4349课 染色48第一课Cotton Growing棉花种植 Cotton is the world
2、39;s most widely used fiber. Its popularity stems from both its relative ease of production and its applicability to a wide variety of textile products. The price of cotton yarn, however, is strongly dependent upon the cost of labor, so that in the industrialized nations, where labor is expensive, c
3、otton yarns may be relatively high priced.棉花是世界上使用最广泛的纤维。它的流行源于它的生产及其在纺织产品广泛适用性相对容易。棉纱价格,然而,强烈地依赖于劳动力成本,因此,在工业化的国家,那里的劳动力昂贵,棉纱可能相对较高的价格。Until relatively recent times, however, cotton was not as widely used as wool and linen. This was because it was easier to spin wool or flax into yam because of the
4、ir greater length. In addition, cotton fibers have to be separated from the seeds to which they cling. This procedure was very tedious and time-consuming when done by hand. Early machinery could be used on only the longest staple cotton. So labor costs tended to be very high.直到最近,然而,棉花是没有广泛用作羊毛和亚麻布。
5、这是因为它容易被毛或亚麻纺成纱由于其更大的长度。此外,棉纤维要从种子中分离出来的,他们依靠。这个过程是非常繁琐和费时的,手工做的。早期的机器可以用在只有长纤维棉花。所以劳动力成本会很高。 The invention of the saw-type cotton gin made possible the exploitation of the short staple fiber, which thrived in the Carolinas and Virginia of the United States. The dramatic increase in productivity, co
6、upled with the low cost of labor in the southern United States, gave cotton a continually expanding portion of the world textile market. Increasing mechanization of fiber and yarn production helped keep the cost of cotton goods low. The, development of the textile machinery enlarged the production b
7、ase.的锯片式轧棉机的发明使可能的短纤维的开发,兴盛于美国北卡罗莱纳州和弗吉尼亚州。生产率的急剧增加,加上在美国南部的人工成本低,给棉不断扩大在全球纺织市场部。机械化程度提高,纤维和纱线的生产使棉花的成本低的商品。纺织机械的发展,扩大了生产基地。 Cotton cultivation requires warm climates with a high level of moisture or irrigation. The growing season is from six to seven months long. During this period the seeds sprout
8、 and grow, producing a white blossom in about 100 days. The blossom produces a seed pod, which matures during the next two months. When the pod bursts, the cotton fibers are ready for picking.棉花种植需要温暖的气候和水分或灌溉高水平。生长季节是从六到七个月。这一时期的种子发芽生长,在大约100天,产生白色花。当荚破裂,棉纤维是采摘。 Before yam manufacture, cotton is gr
9、aded, sorted, and blended to insure uniform yam quality. Cotton is graded on the basis of color, staple length, fineness, and freedom from foreign matter. In the United States, cottons are divided into grades according to length of staple, uniformity, strength, color, cleanness and flexibility. Thes
10、e are compared with a standard supplied by the United States Department of Agriculture. The standard provides 6 grades above and 6 grades below the Middling grade. The most common grades are:山药生产之前,棉花分级,分类,和混合均匀的纱线质量的保证。棉花是彩色的,依据梯度纤维长度,细度,和外来物质的自由。在美国,棉花分根据纤维的均匀性,强度,颜色,长度为等级,清洁和灵活性。这些都是由美国农业部提供一个标准的
11、比较。本标准规定了6级以上,6级以下的中等。最常见的等级:(1) Strict good middling.(1)严格的上级。(2) Good middling. (2)上级。(3) Strict middling. (3)严格的中等。(4) Middling. (4)中。(5) Strict low middling (5)严格的低中等(6) Low middling. (6)低中等。 (7) Strict good ordinary. (7)严格好普通。 The cotton fiber may be from 0.3 to 5.5 cm long. Under the microscop
12、e it appears as a ribbon like structure that is twisted at irregular intervals along its length. The twists, called convolutions, increase the fiber-to-fiber friction necessary to secure a strong spun yarn. The fiber ranges in color from a yellowish to pure white, and may be very lustrous. However,
13、most cotton dull.棉纤维可从0.3到5.5厘米长。在显微镜下看起来是一个带状结构,沿其长度不规则的时间间隔扭曲。曲曲折折的,称为卷积,增加纤维间的摩擦力要获得一个强有力的纱。从浅黄色到纯白色的纤维的范围,并可以很有光泽。然而,大多数棉花迟钝。 A cross-sectional view reveals that the fiber is kidney-shaped with central hollow core known as the lumen. The lumen provides a channel for nutrients while the plant is
14、growing. The fiber consists of an outer shell, or cuticle, which surrounds the primary wall. The primary wall, in turn, covers the secondary wall surrounding the lumen. The cuticle is a thin, hard shell which protects the fiber from bruising and damage during growth. In use as a textile fiber, the c
15、uticle provides abrasion resistance to cotton.管腔提供养分的通道而植物的生长。纤维由外壳,或角质层,围绕初生壁。反过来,包括初生壁,管腔周围次生壁。角质层是薄的,坚硬的外壳保护纤维生长过程中的破碎和损伤。在用作纺织纤维,角质层提供了耐磨抗棉。第二课Cotton Properties and Uses棉纤维的特性和用途 A relatively high level of moisture absorption and good wicking properties help make cotton one of the more comfortab
16、le fibers. Because of the hydroxyl groups in the cellulose, cotton has a high attraction for water. As water enters the fiber, cotton swells and its cross section becomes more rounded. The high affinity for moisture and the ability to swell when wet allow cotton to absorb about one-fourth of its wei
17、ght in water. This means that in hot weather perspiration from the body will be absorbed in cotton fabrics, transported along the yarns to the outer surface of the cloth and evaporated into the air. Thus, the body will be aided in maintaining its temperature.吸湿性和良好的吸湿排汗性能使棉纤维的一个更舒适的一个比较高的水平。因为在纤维素的羟
18、基基团,棉花对水有很强的吸引力。当水进入纤维棉,膨胀,其截面变得更圆。水分和膨胀时湿让棉花吸收水的重量约四分之一的高亲和力的能力。这意味着,在炎热的天气里,身体的汗会吸收棉织品,沿运纱布的外表面和蒸发到空气中。因此,身体会帮助维持其温度。 Unfortunately, the hydrophilic nature of cotton makes it susceptible to water-borne stains. Water-soluble colorants such as those in coffee or grape juice will penetrate the fiber
19、along with the water; when the water evaporates, the colorant is trapped in the fiber. Perhaps the major disadvantage to cotton goods is their tendency to wrinkle and the difficulty of removing wrinkles. The rigidity of cotton fiber reduces the ability of yarns to resist wrinkling. When the fibers a
20、re bent to a new configuration, the hydrogen bonds which hold the cellulose chains together are ruptured and the molecules slide in order to minimize the stress within the fiber. The hydrogen bonds reform in the new positions, so that when the crushing force is removed the fibers stay in the new pos
21、itions. It is the rupture and reformation of the hydrogen bonds that helps to maintain wrinkles, so that cotton goods must be ironed.不幸的是,棉花的亲水性使得它容易受到水渍。如在咖啡或葡萄汁的水溶性色素会渗入纤维随着水;当水分蒸发,着色剂是困在纤维。也许主要的缺点,棉织品是他们的倾向,皱纹和去除皱纹的困难。棉纤维的刚度降低纱线抗起皱能力。当纤维弯曲的一种新的配置,氢债券持有的纤维素链在一起破裂和分子滑动以减少纤维中的应力。在新的位置的氢键的改革,所以当破碎力去除
22、纤维保持在新的位置。这是氢键,有助于保持皱纹的断裂和改革,使棉织品要熨。 Cotton is a moderately strong fiber with good abrasion resistance and good dimensional stability. It is resistant to the acids, alkalies, and organic solvents normally available to consumers. But since it is a natural material, it is subject to attack by insects,
23、 molds and fungus. Most prominent is the tendency for cotton to mildew if allowed to remain damp.棉花是具有良好的耐磨性和尺寸稳定性好,中等强度的纤维。这是抵抗酸,碱和有机溶剂,通常提供给消费者。但由于它是一种天然物质,它是受攻击的昆虫,霉菌和真菌。最突出的是棉花霉烂的倾向,如果允许存在潮湿。 Cotton resists sunlight and heat well, although direct exposure to constant strong sunlight will cause y
24、ellowing and eventual degradation of the fiber. Yellowing may also occur when cotton goods are dried in gas dryers. The color change is the result of a chemical reaction between cellulose and oxygen or nitrogen oxides in the hot air in the dryer. Cottons will retain their whiteness longer when line-
25、dried or dried in the electric dryer.棉花抗太阳光和热,虽然直接暴露于恒定的强烈的阳光会引起黄的最终降解纤维。变黄时也可能出现在气干燥器干燥棉织品。颜色的变化是一种化学反应的纤维素和氧或氮氧化物之间在热空气中干燥的结果。棉花将保留其白度较长时,线干或在电干燥器中干燥。 Of major interest is the fact that cotton yarn is stronger when wet than when dry. This property is a consequence of the macro-and micro-structural
26、 features of the fiber. As water is absorbed, the fiber swells and its cross section becomes more rounded. Usually the absorption of such a large amount of foreign material would cause a high degree of internal stress and lead to weakening of the fiber. In cotton, however, the absorption of water ca
27、uses a decrease in the internal stresses. Thus, with less internal stresses to overcome, the swollen fiber becomes stronger. At the same time, the swollen fibers within the yarns press upon each other more strongly. The internal friction strengthens the yarns. In addition, the absorbed water acts as
28、 an internal lubricant which imparts a higher level of flexibility to the fibers. This accounts for the fact that cotton garments are more easily ironed when damp. Cotton fabrics are susceptible to shrinkage upon laundering.主要感兴趣的是事实,棉纱时干时湿比。此属性的宏观和微观结构特征的纤维的结果。当水被吸收,纤维膨胀,其截面变得更圆。通常这种大量的外来物质的吸收会导致内部
29、应力较高,导致纤维弱化。然而,棉花,水的吸收导致的内部应力减少。因此,减少内部应力来克服,肿胀的纤维变得更强。同时,在纱线溶胀纤维按对彼此更强烈。的内部摩擦增强纱线。此外,所吸收的水作为一个内部润滑剂,赋予纤维较高水平的灵活性。这说明棉花衣服更容易熨潮湿时。纯棉织物易收缩对洗钱。 Perhaps more than any other fiber, cotton satisfies the requirements of apparel, home furnishings, recreational, and industrial uses. It provides fabrics that
30、are strong, lightweight, pliable, easily dried, and readily laundered. In apparel, cotton provides garments that are comfortable, readily dried in bright, long-lasting colors, and easy to care for. The major drawbacks are a propensity for cotton yams to shrink and for cotton cloth to wrinkle. Shrink
31、age may be controlled by the application of shrink-resistant finishes. Durable-press properties may be imparted by chemical treatment or by blending cotton with more wrinkle-resistant fibers, such as polyester.也许比任何其他纤维,棉满足服装,家居家具,休闲的要求,和工业用途。它提供了强大的,面料轻薄,柔软,易干燥,易清洗。在服装,棉提供服装,舒适,容易干燥,在明亮的,持久的色彩,容易照顾
32、。主要的缺点是一种棉纱和棉布收缩起皱的倾向。收缩可以由应用程序的控制防缩整理。免烫性能可以通过化学处理或由棉纤维混纺传授更多的抗皱,如涤纶。 In home furnishings, cotton serves in durable, general-service fabrics. Although they may lack the formal appearance of materials made from other fibers, cotton goods provide a comfortable, homey environment. Cotton fabrics have
33、been the mainstay of bed linens and towels for decades, because they are comfortable, durable, and moisture-absorbent. Polyester/cotton blends provide the modern consumer with no-iron sheets and pillowcases that retain a crisp, fresh feel.在居家摆设,耐用是棉花,织物一般服务。虽然他们可能缺乏来自其他纤维材料的形式出现,棉织品提供一个舒适,温馨的环境。棉织物一
34、直是几十年来的床单和毛巾的支柱,因为他们是舒适,耐用,和吸湿剂。涤/棉混纺织物提供没有铁的床单和枕套,保持一个清晰的现代消费,新鲜的感觉。 For recreational use, cotton has traditionally been used for tenting and camping gear, boat sails, tennis shoes and sportswear. Cotton is particularly well-suited for tent. A tent fabric must be able to "breath", so that
35、 the occupants are not smothered in their own carbon dioxide. Furthermore, exchange of air with the outside atmosphere reduces the humidity within the tent and keeps it from becoming stuffy. Fabrics woven from cotton can be open enough to provide good air permeability for comfort. Tents should also
36、shed water, when wet by rain, cotton yarns swell, reducing the interstices between the yarns and resisting the penetration of water. Today, however, heavy canvas gear is being supplanted by light-weight nylon in tenting equipment.用于娱乐用途,棉花已被用于帐篷和野营装备,船帆,运动鞋和运动服。棉花是特别适合的帐篷。一个帐篷织物必须能够“呼吸”,让居住者不被自己的二氧化
37、碳。此外,与外界空气交换减少湿度在帐篷和使它变得闷。机织物棉可以打开足够舒适,提供良好的透气性。帐篷也流下的水,当被雨水打湿,棉纱膨胀,降低纱线和抗水渗透之间的间隙。今天,然而,沉重的帆布齿轮被取代的轻质尼龙检测设备。 Cotton cord, twine and ropes are used in industry to bind, hold, and lash all kinds of things, from bales to boats. Cotton yarns are used to reinforce belts on drive motors and in work cloth
38、ing.棉绳,绳和绳行业中使用的绑定,持有,鞭笞和各种各样的东西,从包船。棉纱是用来加强对驱动电机和工作服带。第四课 Wool羊毛 The early history of wool is lost in antiquity. Sheepskin, including the hair, was probably used long before it was discovered that the fibers could be spun into yarns or even felted into fabric. There is no evidence to support the th
39、eory that wool was the first fiber to be processed into fabric, but it seems certain that, as a part of the skin, wool was used for covering and protection by prehistoric peoples long before yarns and fabrics were made.羊毛的早期历史失传了。羊皮,包括头发,可能很久以前发现的纤维可纺成纱线或织成织物毡。没有证据支持,羊毛被加工成的织物的第一光纤的理论,但似乎肯定的是,作为皮肤的一
40、部分,羊毛被用于覆盖和保护的史前人类早在纱线和织物进行了。The earliest fragments of wool fabric have been found in Egypt, probably because of the preserving qualities of the climate. These have been dated from 4000 to 3500 B C. The earliest example of wool fabric found in Europe has been dated about 1500 B C; it was unearthed i
41、n archeological digs in Germany. Danish sites have yielded excellent fragments of early wool fabrics dated about 1300 to 1000 BC. These fabrics are rough and coarse and contain considerable wild sheep hair.毛织物最早的碎片已经被发现在埃及,可能是因为保鲜品质的气候。这些已经从公元前4000到公元前3500 。最早的羊毛织物的发现在欧洲已经于约公元前1500 ;这是出土的考古发掘,在德国。丹麦
42、的网站已经取得了优良的片段的早期的羊毛织物约公元前1300至公元前1000年。这些织物粗糙,含有大量的野生绵羊毛。 Wool is a natural fiber of animal origin. Though vegetable fibers were probably the first to be used for spinning and weaving into cloth, animal fibers in the form of skins were the earliest type of clothing worn by man.羊毛是来自于动物的天然纤维。尽管植物纤维可能
43、被用于纺纱和织布的第一,在动物毛皮纤维最早的人穿的服装类型。 There are indications that, as early as the seventh century BC, people began to sell and buy woolen goods. The supply of wool available to the world every year amounts to about 5000 million pounds. After scouring, this is reduced to about 3000 million pounds of pure wo
44、ol. The wool crop is insufficient to meet the world needs. Pure wool is often mixed with other type fibers and recovered wool to meet the demand.有迹象表明,早在公元前第七世纪,人们开始买卖毛织品。羊毛每年向世界供应量的大约500千万磅。冲刷后,这是减少到大约300千万磅的纯羊毛。羊毛的产量不能满足世界的需要。纯羊毛通常与其它纤维的混合和再生毛满足需求。 The qualities of different wools vary greatly. Th
45、e merino sheep of Australia, South America and South Africa produce very free and soft wool. The quality of wool from these sources depends upon the conditions and heritage of the sheep. Port Philip wool is the finest in Australia and is used to produce the highest quality woolen and worsted fabrics
46、.不同品种的羊毛在质量上存在较大的差异。澳大利亚细毛羊,南美国和南非产生非常自由和柔软的羊毛。从这些来源的羊毛的质量取决于羊的饲养条件和品种。菲利普港羊毛是澳大利亚最好的,被用于生产粗纺和精纺毛织物质量最高的。 Wool from South Africa is very wavy with a good white color and is used for good quality worsted and woolen goods. South American wool is usually of lower quality than wool from Australia or Sou
47、th Africa. Merino wool has been successfully raised in Germany, France, Spain and the United States and is of high quality.南非产的羊毛是一个好的白色非常波浪和用于优质的精纺呢绒。南美洲羊毛通常是低质量比从澳大利亚或南非羊毛。美利奴羊毛已在德国,成功地提高了法国,西班牙和美国是高质量的。 To provide the freest-quality wool, production is scientifically controlled. Sheep are inocula
48、ted against disease, dipped in chemicals to protect them against insects, and unless on rangeland, fed diet designed to produce healthy animals.提供最优质的羊毛,生产的科学控制。绵羊接种抵抗疾病,浸泡在化学物质来保护他们免受昆虫,除非在草地,设计生产出健康的动物饲料。 Wool can be sheared from the living animal or pulled from the hide after the animal has been
49、slaughtered for its meat. Sheared wool is called fleece or clip wool and is quality to pulled wool, which is taken from the hides of slaughtered sheep Wool considered superior剪羊毛可以从活的动物或从隐藏拉后,动物被屠宰后的肉。剪羊毛是羊毛或羊毛和质量夹毛被,这是从宰羊羊毛被认为是优越的隐藏 Shearing is currently done very rapidly with power shears. A good
50、worker can completely shear a sheep in less than one minute, sometimes as short as 20 seconds. Recent developments in Australia have led to a process called chemical or biological shearing. The animal is fed a chemical similar to that used in the treatment of cancer, which cause the hair to fall out
51、 within two weeks. Within very short time following the loss of the hair, it starts to grow again, and the sheep suffer no damage. Fibers obtained in this way are slightly longer than those sheared from the animal, and there appears to be less physical damage to the fibers.剪切当前功率迅速完成剪。一个好的工人可以完全剪力在不
52、到一分钟,一只羊,有时短为20秒。澳大利亚最近的事态发展导致的过程被称为化学或生物剪。动物喂食化学相似,用于癌症的治疗,导致头发脱落两周内。头发的损失后,在很短的时间内,它又开始生长,和羊不受损害。以这种方式得到的纤维比剪切从动物稍长,似乎有对纤维的物理伤害少。 Usually shearing is done once a year in the early spring, and the fleece is removed in one piece, rolled, packed into bags, and shipped to the nearest processing center
53、. Pulled wool is removed from the hide by one of two methods. It may be treated with a depilatory that loosens the fiber and permits it to be pulled away from the skin without damaging the hide, or it Can be loosened by the action of bacteria on the root end of the fiber. Pulled wool is usually mixe
54、d with fleece or clip wool before processing into yarns and fabrics.通常剪切是一年做一次在早春,和羊毛是一块,删除卷,包装成袋,并运到最近的加工中心。拔毛是由两种方法中的一种从隐藏删除。它可以用脱毛,松开纤维和允许它被拉离皮肤无损伤隐藏处理,或者可以通过细菌对纤维的根端动作放松。拔毛通常与羊毛或羊毛混合前夹加工成纱线和织物。 Preliminary grading of wool fibers is done while they are still in the fleece, because this step is im
55、portant in determining cost. Factors used in determining the grade of wool include fiber fineness or diameter and length, the age of the animal, the natural color, the breed of the sheep, and the condition under which the animal lived. After grading, fleeces are shipped to the mill, where they are p
56、repared for further processing into yarns and fabrics.初步的羊毛纤维的分级是还在羊毛做的,因为这一步确定成本是很重要的。用于测定棉纤维细度和品位的因素包括直径和长度,年龄的动物,自然的色彩,羊的品种,和的情况下,动物的生活。评分后,羊毛被运送到工厂,在那里他们准备进一步加工成纱线和织物。 Wool is attacked by hot sulfuric acid and decomposes completely. most other mineral acids of all strengths. Wool will dissolve i
57、n caustic soda solutions that would have little effect on cotton.羊毛是由热硫酸袭击并完全分解。大多数其它不同浓度的无机酸。羊毛会溶解在烧碱的解决方案,将对棉花的影响不大。第五课 Structure and Properties of Wool羊毛纤维的结构和性能 Under the microscopic observation, the length of the wool fiber shows a scale structure. The size of the scale varies from very small t
58、o comparatively broad and large. As many as 700 scales are found in 1 cm of fine wool, whereas coarse wool may have as few as 275 per cm. Fine wool does not have as clear and distinct scales as coarse wool, but they can be identified under high magnification.显微观察下,羊毛纤维的长度显示了一个规模结构。规模的大小从比较广阔的和大的很小变化。多达700的尺度是羊毛的1厘米,而粗毛可能为每厘米275少。细羊毛没有粗羊毛为清晰明确的尺度,但他们可以在高放大倍数的确定。 A cross section of wool shows three distinct parts to the fiber. The outer layer, called cuticle, is composed of the scales. These scales are some
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