针织面料知识

1、Circular Knit FabricsDECOR PD TEAMKNIT FABRIC: specifications Width from edge to edgeCuttable widthWeight: G/M2 M/KG: How many meters per KG? (M/KG = 1KG G/M2 width(edge to edge)Yarn typeCompositionKNIT FABRIC: InspectionFabric weight G/M2Roll weight / roll length Fabric average weight G/M2Width (ed

2、ge to edge & cuttable)Slanting & SkewnessFabric face qualityTest Shrinkage (include length and width)Through knit needle, one or more yarns are made series loops. New loops lock original loops, then make knit fabric.Knit stitch(K)Tuck stitch(T)Float yarn(W)Jersey is made of series loops, inc

3、lude single jersey, plated jersey and spandex jersery.JSYKKKKPlated Jersey are made by two different of yarns(different yarn or color), make the loops at the same time, cotton & polyester plated jersey is basic construction with Moisture absorption of fast drying JSYKKKKJSYKKKKElastic Jersey is

4、a special plated jersey, made by spandex or Lycra with other yarn, eg. Cotton, polyester, make the loops at the sam time. 2. Pique * Square Pique * Honey cone Pique * Twill Pique * Athletic PiquePique fabric is made by continued Knit stitch and Tuck stitch，include square pique, honey pique, twill pi

5、que, achletic pique, elastic pique etc.1234PIQUEKKKKKTKTKKKKTKTK* Oxford pique ： Knit stitch and Tuck stitch are made by different colors yarn.* Elastic pique: Spandex only join in knit stitch. So, the elastic quality is not good as elastic jersey, especially the width direction.6 feed piques charac

6、ter is the continous knit stitch & 2 tuck stitch in the same line.Twill pique constuction is made by one knit stitch, 2 float yarn, and 1 tuck stitch.Athletic Pique construction is 2 knit stitch and 1 tuck stitch.Generally, feed machine and auto feed machine can satisfy different distance of rep

7、eat stripe.Feed Stripe The max distance of repeat stripe = 96F;Auto Stripe No more than 4 colors in one combo, no limitation of repeat length.RIB1. 1*1 ribFace and back are same, made by rib machine, the advantage is thicker than jersey, and more elastic. Most time used on hem, cuff and collar.faceb

8、ack2. 2*2 RIBMake 2*2 rib is in order to get the better elastic, most of 2*2 rib is used to cuff and hemfaceback3. Drop needleDrop needles construction is not stable, have good elastic. It can change the drop loop to change the fabric style.facebackDouble knit fabric1. Interlock Compared with Jersey

9、 & rib, interlock is more tight, the face and back are same. Some times, we can change the face and backs composition, but be more attention on the face and backs shrinkage, must keep same.FACEBACK2. Double JacquardIt use dyed yarn, make face and back are different flowerFaceBackGenerally, Spand

10、ex type: 20D, 30D , 40D , 70D Core yarn : Cotton is shell, Spandex is the core yarn eg. 40sX70D 40S Cotton with 70D spandex core yarn. Spandex fabric need pre-setting to improve crease mark and stability.Spandex knit fabricBABAA12,4,6 143,5,7151617* Shrinkage * Bursting * Slanting and Skew* Bowing*

11、PillingGenerally, knit fabrics construction is loose, so the shrinkage is bigger than woven fabric.For single knit fabric, single jersey, pique can have goods shrinkage. Normal is 7%x7%. For Double knit fabric, rib can catch 8%x8%.Shrinkage depends on knit fabric tension, yarn type, and finishing. 。

12、 Knit more tight: will change fabrics weigt, width, handfeel and style.Resin Finishing：Will decrease fabric strength, eg Garment dye cant use resin finishing. Pre- Compact ：Can improve 1-2% shrinkage,Fabric Wash：Fabric weight and width will be changed, suitable shrinkage 7x7% loose fabric.Constructi

13、on constructionFinishing Resin finishing, enzyme washing, brush will decrease the fabric strength. Pre-setting, washing will not affect.Cant avoid slanting in knit fabric, Skewness is the level of fabric slanting. Skewness: When fabric is wet, the level of slanting is skewness, eg, washing & garment dye etc. Skewness is the main problem of Single knit fabric, depend on fabric construction, Yarn twist, finishing etc. Construction Yarn twistBowing is easy happened on loose construction fa