衬衫的生产工艺课件

1、1第四章第四章 衬衫的生产工艺衬衫的生产工艺 20 Hrs内容内容一、衬衫生产企业调研一、衬衫生产企业调研二、衬衫二、衬衫款式描述款式描述三、三、男装衬衫生产工艺流程图男装衬衫生产工艺流程图四、男装衬衫缝制工艺四、男装衬衫缝制工艺 五、衬衫生产的质量控制五、衬衫生产的质量控制2n目的要求目的要求u了解衬衫企业动态u了解传统与新潮男装衬衫款式基本特征u学习并掌握衬衫工艺流程与工艺分析u掌握男装衬衫缝制工艺与质量控制u掌握格子衬衫的生产工艺与要求u了解衬衫面料的选择n本章重点本章重点u新潮衬衫缝制工艺设计u衬衫工艺流程与工艺分析u格子衬衫的生产工艺u衬衫缝制的质量要求与控制n实习操作u格子男装衬衫

2、的缝制3n参考资料（参考资料（中国纺织出版社）u教材：【成衣工艺学】吴铭、张小良P171u参考文献F服装制作工艺实训手册（许涛、第三章 衬衫缝制工艺）F成衣缝制工艺与管理成衣产业时代作（陆鑫 、第四章 衬衫缝制工艺）n实物样板u零部件步骤板u成品样板n网络信息与资料uFolders and Attachments: http:/ 一、衬衫生产企业调研一、衬衫生产企业调研5n金利来集团有限公司http:/ http:/ 10n2、紧身衬衫（传统男装衬衫）、紧身衬衫（传统男装衬衫）n前幅（前中明筒开口、口袋等）n后幅（担干、工字褶）n领子（二片领）n下摆（平脚、园脚）n袖子（长袖、袖级、三尖袖叉）

3、 11n3、新潮款式、新潮款式n前后幅特征n领子n下摆n前明同n胸袋n袖口n特殊款式细节F个性化F时装化F休闲化12三、衬衫生产工艺流程三、衬衫生产工艺流程13n1、流程图设计u流程图一uMaking up a Mens Dress Shirtn2、生产流水线的平衡考虑u大量生产u工序细分情况u工人技术u设备先进性u产品质量高低u其它14n1 1、裁片准备、裁片准备u前幅*2u后幅*1u明筒*1u明筒衬里*1四、四、 缝制工艺与实训指导缝制工艺与实训指导15u袖子*2u 担干*2u 领子（上下级）*2u 口袋*1u 袖级*2u 三尖袖侧（大小）*2u领子衬里（上下级）*1u 袖级衬里*2u大小

4、袖侧*2 16n2 2、零部件缝制、零部件缝制u领子F落插竹（可省略）F粘衬：上下级粘衬、领角衬F包下级领脚：1CM子口，0.5CM间线F 画领子实样（纸板辅助）F运上级领（RS-RS）F 修子口，反烫领子（领尖对称）F 间上级领0.6CM线17F运下级翻领线F修子口，反烫翻领线F 间翻领边线F 熨烫检查A. Various Collar Operations Hems the collar band before it is attached to the collar Please specify hem size and stitch margin. We recommend an ed

5、ge guide foot to maintain proper margins Foot and Guide assist in turning and top stitching front and back collar bands after they have been sewn to the collar. Produces a consistent stitch margin along the bead. A. Various Collar Operations 1819u袖级F粘衬：面袖级粘衬F包袖级衬、子口1CM、0.6CM间线F运袖级（实样辅助）F运袖级：RS-RS,头未

6、回针F袖子口、翻烫袖级F间袖级边线F烫袖级检查 G. Cuff Hemming - Long Sleeve 20u三尖袖叉 F剪袖叉F烫大小袖叉，注意左右对称H. Setting Sleeve Plackets 21F夹小袖侧F 夹大修侧，车缝袖叉横位F 运烫检查H. Setting Sleeve Plackets Used to sew a continuous facing around the sleeve opening. Folder is designed for easy loading of short pieces. Edge guide foot is recommende

7、d. Designed for sewing short pieces in straight runs on the sleeve opening. Folders are available in top and bottom sets when cut sizes of top and bottom placket strips are different. Edge guide foot is recommended. 2223u前幅F烫右前幅钮筒宽度3CMF 车钮筒3CM线F 粘左明筒衬，并烫子口（3CM宽）F 运反间左明筒（0.6CM线）K. Attach Center Plack

8、et Top Center Folder Attaches the center plait to the shirt body. Folder features a separate concave lining track, which allows easier starts for all types of fabrics and a tight finish around the lining. Bed plate mount or swing bracket mount is available. Body hemmer provided with folder. Please s

9、pecify: mans or ladies shirt-lining from right or left. K. Attach Center Placket 2425F点左胸袋位F 还2CM袋口，烫袋形F 绱三尖胸袋（边线或0.6CM线）F运烫前幅 C. Pocket Hemming This attachment is used to hem the tops of pockets. Many different folder styles are available to suit your particular need. Please specify finished size,

10、stitch margin, and the amount of in-tuck required. Special presser foot recommended. 26u后幅F打褶（工字褶或活褶）F运担干 B. Yoking And Shoulder Joining 27u合并前后幅（明线或暗线方式）F明线连接前后肩线（RS-RS）F间明线肩线（据款式需求） B. Yoking And Shoulder Joining Used to attach the yoke to the front and back panels of the shirt. Both folders can b

11、e made left or right. This folder turns down the top ply and joins it to two additional plys. The bottom ply is then turned back to form the yoke. Special foot is recommended. Foot and Guide assist in turning and top stitching front and back collar bands after they have been sewn to the collar. Prod

12、uces a consistent stitch margin along the bead. 2829u绱袖（5线锁边或包缝）：对齐刀口位与左右袖方向u缝合侧骨（5线锁边或包缝） J. Sleeve Setting There are two types of variations for the Sleeve Setting Single Needle Sleeving Set of guides for joining the armhole to the sleeve on high quality shirts. Adjustable margin settings. Special

13、 presser foot is recommended. Turns the sleeve up as the body is pulled over and stitched down. Produces a quality finish and appearance. Special presser foot is recommended. J. Sleeve Setting 30I. Closing Side Seams Lap Seam Folders Lap seam folders are used to close side seams. Lap seam folder can

14、 also be made with a spring release, which will allow sleeve seam to pass through freely. Please specify make and gauge of machine and send material with a sample of the sleeve seams. 31D. Cuff Hemming - Short Sleeve In addition to the plain hemmer, a variety of folders are available for finishing s

15、hort sleeves. Two of the most popular are illustrated below. These folders may also be used to hem the tops of pockets Produces tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts. May be used on lockstitch or chainstitch machines. Stripes and plaids are easily matched. Piping and other types of trim may also be

16、 added. Special edge guide foot is recommended. Produces a tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts. Must be used on lockstitch machines. Special foot is recommended. 3233u夹袖级：注意底面 G. Cuff Hemming - Long Sleeve For use on lockstitch machines with lining and face goods in short pieces. Hemmer is adjust

17、able to allow for different size lining and face goods. Please specify hem size and stitch margin. Special presser foot is recommended. For use on chainstitch machines with lining in rolls and face goods in pieces or rolls. Hemmer is adjustable to accommodate different size lining and face goods. Pl

18、ease specify hem size and stitch margin. Special presser foot is recommended. G. Cuff Hemming - Long Sleeve 3435u绱领 F对齐刀口位，运线绱领（领底与衫身正面相对，1CM子口缝合）F盖领间线（盖衫身底，间领边线） 36u还衫脚（0.8CM还口，可用拉筒辅助）u打扣眼，钉钮F定位（前筒第一位钮离领线67CM,间隔89CM）F 前筒打直钮门F 袖级横钮门，袖侧位打直钮门F 钉扣u运烫检查 E. Tail Hemming #209 Hinged Foot Hemmer#209 Hinged

19、 Foot Hemmer No. 209 The #209 hinged foot hemmer is available in a 3/16 finish. The hinged feature allows for some give as you cross over the side seam. No. 209A Foot Hemmer is also available with AIR JET, which helps eliminate loose thread strands. No. 210 The swing hemmer is used for straighter ru

20、ns and is available with a spring for side seams. The swing out bracket is recommended for easy finishing. Special presser foot recommended. 3738五、格条衬衫的生产五、格条衬衫的生产n1、接单前需考虑的因素、接单前需考虑的因素u面料是否合规格u成本预算是否足够u本厂的器材是否足够 设备是否齐全u裁剪、排版、缝合技术与管理：是否配套 39n2、对格花的困难、对格花的困难u排版与省料技术的要求u裁剪技术与设备u面料的质量要求，如格条不直u车工技术与管理水平 40n3、需全对格的部位、需全对格的部位u前幅前中线左右对格u袋子对前幅u前后侧缝对横格u袖子左右对称u介英面u袖口与袖衩u担干左右对称。u领面左右对称u领面对后幅衣身u前门襟u其它特殊要求41n4、对格条的常见方法、对格条的常见方法u对称排版法/ 对门排版法F左右幅裁片排在同一高度的格纹上，前襟位靠齐布边，中间插排碎料；F快捷、安全、操作方便、费料。42u铺布排版法铺布排版法F排版时以纸样的转角或折襟位所在格花的位置作为另一幅裁片的对位点；F省料、宜高价料、小批量的时款生产；F用针床定位或红外线定位。43u左右