染整英语3 dyeing

1、Chapter 3 dyeing of textiles 织物染色织物染色3.1 introduction to dyeing染色简介3.1 introduction to dyeing染色简介 Colorants 染色剂染色剂 Color fastness 染色牢度染色牢度 Dyeing process 染色工序染色工序Batch dyeing process 间歇式染色Continuous dyeing 连续式染色Textiles color Textiles color is normally obtained by applying a colorant to the textile

2、substrate.获得获得基底基底着色剂着色剂1. Dyeing 染色2. Printing 印花Dyeing 染色 Printing adds color to the substrate locallyPrinting dyeing dyeing completely covers the substrate with color With the intention of obtaining an even color distribution throughout the substrate局部染色局部染色全部染色全部染色以以为目的为目的Colorants 染色剂 What is t

3、he difference between dyes and pigments?Dyes 染料染料 Pigments 干粉颜料干粉颜料Water soluble 水溶性Substantivity for fibres 亲纤维性Can be absorbed into the fibres 纤维吸附力 Not water soluble 非水溶性Possess no specific attractionfor any particular fibre type无特殊纤维吸附力Color fastness 染色牢度染色牢度Measurement测量测量 hue 色彩色彩 Depth 色泽浓度色泽

4、浓度Brightness 亮度亮度Uniformity 均匀度均匀度Fastness 牢度牢度qualityColor fastness 染色牢度染色牢度 The ability of the shade to withstand external agencies without loss or change in color 染色的织物在外界作用下，不褪色或不变色的能力染色的织物在外界作用下，不褪色或不变色的能力承受承受机构，作用机构，作用色度色度washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, perspiration,Heat, lightDyeing process 染

5、色工序染色工序 Batch dyeing process 间歇式染色间歇式染色 Continuous dyeing 连续式染色连续式染色Dyeing of textiles织物染色织物染色Transfer dye molecules from a medium (usually water) in which the dye is dissolved or dispersed onto the textile fibres. 染料染料分散分散Batch dyeing process 间歇式染色间歇式染色 Step 1：dye molecules are first attracted to t

6、he fibre surface Step 2：dye molecules diffuse through the fibre due to the high surface concentration of dye Step 3：dye molecules are fixed on the fibre by intermolecular force or chemical bond染料分子吸附纤维表面染料分子吸附纤维表面由于纤维表面染料浓度较高而扩散进入纤维内部由于纤维表面染料浓度较高而扩散进入纤维内部通过分子间力或化学键固着在纤维上通过分子间力或化学键固着在纤维上Batch dyeing

7、process 间歇式染色间歇式染色The dye in the liquor溶液内染料溶液内染料The dye in the fibre纤维中染料纤维中染料Continuous dyeing 连续式染色连续式染色 Step 1: impregnate the prepared fabric with a suitable amount of dye liquor Step 2: pad it through a foulard to facilitate the penetration of the dye into the fabric fibre and eliminate the ex

8、cess dye solution from the fibre Step 3: pass it into a fixation chamber where dye fixation takes place within just a few minutes将织物浸渍适量的染液将织物浸渍适量的染液通过轧压促使染料渗透到织物纤维内部并除去多余染液通过轧压促使染料渗透到织物纤维内部并除去多余染液进入固色蒸箱，在几分钟内完成固色进入固色蒸箱，在几分钟内完成固色What are the difference between batching dyeing process and continuous

9、dyeing process?Continuous dyeing 连续式染色连续式染色Fixation固色固色Language point 语法点 Derive from 从从获得获得 Derive vt.取得；追溯起源 vi.(from)起源，衍生 derive great pleasure from ones studies 从学习中获得极大乐趣 Thousands of English words derive from Latin. 英语中有成千上万的词源自拉丁文.Language point 语法点 Imparting color to clothing Impart vt. 赋予，

10、给予 impart a subtle flavor; 加少许调料; impart some advice. 给予一些建议 A teachers aim is to impart knowledge. 教师的作用是传授知识。Language point 语法点 This quality is usually assessed through Assess vt.对进行估价；评价，评论 Assessment n. 评价，评估 Id assess your chances as extremely low. 我估计你成功的机会极微. What is your assessment of the si

11、tuation? 你对这一情况有什麽看法? Language point 语法点 In relation to 根据，有关 I have a lot to say in relation to that affair. 关于关于那件事,我有好多话要说。Review 复习 Colorants Color fastness Batch dyeing process Continuous dyeing Obtain Substrate With the intention of Fixation Derive from Impart Assessment 染色剂 染色牢度 间歇式染色 连续式染色 获

12、得 基底 以为目的 固色 从获得 赋予，给予 评价，评估Classification of dyes 染料分类Dye 染料 A colorant, usually organic, soluble or dispersed in its medium of application and which is designed to be absorbed or absorbed by, made to react with, or deposited within a substrate in order to impart color to that substrate with some d

13、egree of permanence.分散分散可溶的可溶的媒介媒介应用应用吸收吸收反应反应沉积沉积基底基底赋予赋予耐久度耐久度着色剂着色剂 Before 1856 1856 Today Natural vegetables, animals and mineral materials William Perkin discovered the first synthetic dye More than 4000 different dyesHistory Organic compounds 有机合成物有机合成物Dyes 染料染料 =Chromophore group 发色团发色团Auxoch

14、rome group助色团助色团Solubilizing group水溶性基团水溶性基团Organic compounds 有机合成物有机合成物 Chromophore group 发色团发色团 1. conjugated unsaturated system existing in the dyes molecule 染料分子中不饱和共轭体系 2. Provide color 提供颜色Organic compounds 有机合成物有机合成物 Auxochrome group 助色团助色团 1. attached to the chromophore 依附于发色团 2. intensify a

15、nd deepen the color 增强加深颜色Organic compounds 有机合成物有机合成物 Solubilizing group 水溶性基团水溶性基团 1. include ionic groups and polar nonionic groups 包含离子团和极性非离子团 2. impart water solubility to the dyes 赋予染料水溶解性ionic character 离子性质chemical type 化学种类application method 应用方式Depend on根据根据Different kinds of dyesionic ch

16、aracter 离子性质离子性质Reflects solubility in water 体现在水溶性上体现在水溶性上Ionic dye 离子染料离子染料Nonionic dye 非离子染料非离子染料Anionic阴离子阴离子Cationic阳离子阳离子Water soluble Small water solubilitychemical type 化学种类化学种类Dyers Dye manufacturers For dyers this application classification is far more important than others对染色者而言，按应用分类远比其他

17、分类重要application method 应用方式应用方式 An application class groups together dyes with similar application propertiesapplication method 应用方式应用方式 Acid dye Basic dye Direct dye Disperse dye Reactive dye Sulphur dye Vat dye 酸性染料 基本染料 直接染料 分散染料 活性染料 硫化染料 还原染料Dye type solubility firbe affinity fastness propertie

18、s染料类型染料类型 水溶性水溶性 亲纤维性亲纤维性 染色牢度染色牢度Basic 基本基本Acid 酸性酸性Direct 直接直接Disperse 分散分散Reactive 活性活性Vat 还原还原Water solubleWater solubleWater solubleinsolubleinsolubleWater solubleacryliccellulosiccellulosiccellulosicproteinproteinsyntheticpolyamideLanguage points Disperse vi.使分散；使消失 vt.分散；驱散 The crowd disperse

19、d. 人群散开了. 风把云吹散了. The wind dispersed the clouds. Dispersion n. 分散分散 同义词: distribute spread 反义词: collect withdrawLanguage points React with vi.(作出)反应；反对；起化学反应(作用) Iron reacts with water and air to produce rust. 铁与水和空气起化学反应而生锈。 How did they react to your suggestion? 他们对你的建议有什么反应？ 酸对金属起什麽反应? How do aci

20、ds react on metals? Language points Deposited within deposit dipzit vt.使沉淀；寄存；储蓄 n.定金；存款；矿藏 Coastal deposits are those sediments deposited at or near sea level. 沿海沉积物是沉积在海平面或接近于海平面处的沉积物。Language points attach to vt.连接；使依恋;认为有;使附属 Have you attached labels to the luggage? 你给行李系上标签了吗？ No blame attaches

21、 to you in this affair. 这件事不怪你. Do you attach any importance to what he said? 你认为他说的话重要吗?Language points Intensify v.(使)增强，(使)加剧 intensify ones efforts 更加努力 The terrorists have intensified their bombing campaign. 恐怖分子增加了炸弹爆炸活动。 We must intensify our educational work among our own troops. 我们必须加强自己部队的

22、教育工作。 Language points Be influenced by Influence v.影响影响, 感染感染 Dont let me influence your decision. 不要让我影响你的决定。 Influenced by his example, they performed countless good deeds. 在他的事迹的影响下,他们做了无数的好事。 Language points Far more important than others Far + adj 比较级 + than far more 多得多 Its been using a lot of

23、 petrol lately, far more than usually. 近来这辆车的耗油量很大，远远超过了平时的水平。Influence, intensify, disperse, far more, deposit A bicycles often _ convenient than a car in busy cities. My first failure only _ my desire to succeed. Religion has been an _ for good in her life. The Nile floods the fields and _ mud on

24、them. The wind _ the clouds.Far moreintensifyinfluencedepositsdispersedReview 复习 Colorants Color fastness Batch dyeing process Continuous dyeing Obtain Substrate With the intention of Fixation Derive from Impart Assessment 染色剂 染色牢度 间歇式染色 连续式染色 获得 基底 以为目的 固色 从获得 赋予，给予 评价，评估3.1 introduction to dyeing染

25、色简介 Colorants 染色剂染色剂 Color fastness 染色牢度染色牢度 Dyeing process 染色工序染色工序Batch dyeing process 间歇式染色Continuous dyeing 连续式染色Dyeing 染色 Printing adds color to the substrate locallyPrinting dyeing dyeing completely covers the substrate with color With the intention of obtaining an even color distribution thro

26、ughout the substrate局部染色局部染色全部染色全部染色以以为目的为目的Color fastness 染色牢度染色牢度Measurement测量测量 hue 色彩色彩 Depth 色泽浓度色泽浓度Brightness 亮度亮度Uniformity 均匀度均匀度Fastness 牢度牢度qualityColor fastness 染色牢度染色牢度 The ability of the shade to withstand external agencies without loss or change in color 染色的织物在外界作用下，不褪色或不变色的能力染色的织物在外界

27、作用下，不褪色或不变色的能力承受承受机构，作用机构，作用色度色度washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, perspiration,Heat, lightDye 染料 A colorant, usually organic, soluble or dispersed in its medium of application and which is designed to be absorbed or absorbed by, made to react with, or deposited within a substrate in order to impart co

28、lor to that substrate with some degree of permanence.分散分散可溶的可溶的媒介媒介应用应用吸收吸收反应反应沉积沉积基底基底赋予赋予耐久度耐久度着色剂着色剂Organic compounds 有机合成物有机合成物Dyes 染料染料 =Chromophore group 发色团发色团Auxochrome group助色团助色团Solubilizing group水溶性基团水溶性基团Organic compounds 有机合成物有机合成物 Chromophore group 发色团发色团 1. conjugated unsaturated syst

29、em existing in the dyes molecule 染料分子中不饱和共轭体系 2. Provide color 提供颜色Organic compounds 有机合成物有机合成物 Auxochrome group 助色团助色团 1. attached to the chromophore 依附于发色团 2. intensify and deepen the color 增强加深颜色Organic compounds 有机合成物有机合成物 Solubilizing group 水溶性基团水溶性基团 1. include ionic groups and polar nonionic

30、groups 包含离子团和极性非离子团 2. impart water solubility to the dyes 赋予染料水溶解性Dye type solubility firbe affinity fastness propertiesBasicAcidDirectDisperseReactiveVatWater solubleWater solubleWater solubleinsolubleinsolubleWater solubleacryliccellulosiccellulosiccellulosicproteinproteinsyntheticpolyamideGood/e

31、xcellentTo light and washingpoorTo light and washingmoderate/goodTo light and washingexcellentTo light and washingmoderate/goodTo lightmoderate/goodTo light; good to washing3.3 textdyeing machines 染色机器To assess a dyeing machine评价一台染色机From a dyeing point of view从染色方面看1. Temperature distribution温度分布温度

32、分布2. Liquid circulation液体循环液体循环In order to obtain a uniform dyeing, the dyeing machine must maintain a relatively uniform temperature throughout the liquor and provide a suitable movement between dye liquor and textiles, which can ensure the liquor to penetrate uniformly into every part of the goods

33、 but without the damage of the goods均匀的均匀的保持保持相对地相对地温度温度渗透渗透破坏破坏提供提供Mechanical properties机械性能 Material Function Productivity Power required 材质 性能 产能量 所需动力 Material 材质Must withstand prolonged boiling with acid or alkali solution；必须能承受酸，碱溶液长时间的沸煮必须能承受酸，碱溶液长时间的沸煮All moving parts and motors of the dyein

34、gmachine should be protected against the corrosive action of steam and acidic atmosphere.染色机器所有的运转部件和电动机应进行保护，防止蒸汽和染色机器所有的运转部件和电动机应进行保护，防止蒸汽和酸性空气的腐蚀。酸性空气的腐蚀。Dyeing methods染色方法 Batch dyeing machine 间歇式染色机器 Continuous dyeing machine 连续式染色机器 Semi-continuous dyeing machine 半连续式染色机器Batch dyeing machine间歇

35、式染色机器Dyes染料染料Dye bath染浴染浴Textiles织物织物By the effect of the affinity between the dyes and the textile fibres通过染料和织物纤维间的亲和作用Continuous dyeing machine连续式染色机器Semi-continuous dyeing machine半连续式染色机器Dyes染料染料Dye liquor染液染液Textiles织物织物By impregnation通过浸渍通过浸渍Application 应用 Fibre dyeing machine Yarn dyeing mach

36、ine Fabrics dyeing machine Garment dyeing machine 散纤维染色机散纤维染色机 纱线染色机纱线染色机 织物染色机织物染色机 成衣染色机成衣染色机Fibre dyeing machine散纤维染色机散纤维染色机 Fires are dyed in the form of staple or sliver. 散纤维以短纱或纱条形式染色Fibre dyeing machine散纤维染色特点：得色均匀且透彻散纤维染色特点：得色均匀且透彻散纤维易散乱，一般装在适当的容器中，通散纤维易散乱，一般装在适当的容器中，通过染液循环的染色机进行染色。过染液循环的染色机

37、进行染色。用途用途纯纺或混纺纤维纯纺或混纺纤维纤维条或纤维条球纤维条或纤维条球Fibre dyeing machineDyeing autoclaves高温高压染色机高温高压染色机Up to 100最高最高100Over 100100以上以上 Yarn dyeing machine纱线染色机纱线染色机Dyeing autoclaves 高温高压染色机高温高压染色机Hank dyeing machine 绞纱染色机绞纱染色机Fabrics dyeing machine织物染色机织物染色机 Winch dyeing machine Jig dyeing machine Jet dyeing mac

38、hine Pad dyeing machine 绞盘绳状染色机绞盘绳状染色机 卷染机卷染机 喷射式绞纱染色机喷射式绞纱染色机 浸轧染色机浸轧染色机Winch dyeing machine绞盘绳状染色机绞盘绳状染色机Knitted fabrics 针织物针织物Other fabrics that must not be excessively pulled in the length 不能过度拉扯的其他织物不能过度拉扯的其他织物 Winch dyeing machine绞盘绳状染色机绞盘绳状染色机Vat还原染缸还原染缸Reel绞盘绞盘Jig dyeing machine卷染机卷染机Woven w

39、ith many varieties and a few batches各种机织物Jig dyeing machine卷染机卷染机The fabrics 织物织物The liquor 染液染液 Moves 移动移动Stands still 静止静止Circulation pump循环泵循环泵Jig dyeing machine卷染机卷染机 Exceedingly low liquor ratio 极低浴比 Produce a relatively high tension 产生相对较大的张力The dyeing of cotton woven fabric with the dyes whos

40、e affinity is not high亲和性较低的染料染全棉机织物Jet dyeing machine喷射式绞纱染色机喷射式绞纱染色机Pad dyeing machine浸轧染色机浸轧染色机Continuous dyeing process连续染色过程连续染色过程Fabrics that can withstand tension and pressure能够承受张力和压力的织物能够承受张力和压力的织物Garment dyeing machine成衣染色机成衣染色机The dyeing of cotton garment全棉成衣的染色全棉成衣的染色Drum-type dyeing mac

41、hine转鼓式染色机转鼓式染色机3.4 dyeing of cellulose fabric纤维素织物的染色纤维素织物的染色Cellulosic fibres纤维素纤维纤维素纤维Cotton 棉棉Flax 亚麻亚麻Ramie 苎麻苎麻Jute 黄麻黄麻Rayon 人造丝人造丝Similar dyeing properties相似的染色性质相似的染色性质Variables in dyeing染色中的变量染色中的变量Cotton 棉棉Flax 亚麻亚麻Ramie 苎麻苎麻Jute 黄麻黄麻Rayon 人造丝人造丝纤维素纤维纤维素纤维Gross morphology形态结构形态结构Fine stru

42、cture聚集态结构聚集态结构 Variation in their dyeing properties染色性能变化染色性能变化 It is a known fact in practice that all cellulosicfibres do not absorb the same quantities of dyewhen dyeing is carried out on the mixture ofthese fibres.实践得出，当这些纤维混合物染色时，各种纤维素吸收的染料量各不相同。众所周知的事实众所周知的事实实践实践吸收吸收数量数量混合物混合物The amorphous ar

43、ea非晶态部分非晶态部分The absorbency吸收力吸收力Dyeing properties染色性能染色性能Fibre type纤维种类纤维种类Fibre properties纤维性质纤维性质Weave structure织造结构织造结构Degree of pretreatment with caustic soda用烧碱进行前处理的程度用烧碱进行前处理的程度Dyeing properties染色性能染色性能Dye machine for cellulosic fabrics纤维素织物染色机纤维素织物染色机 Jig dyeing machine Winch dyeing machine

44、Beam dyeing machine Jet dyeing machine Pad dyeing machine 卷染机卷染机 绞盘绳状染色机绞盘绳状染色机 经轴染色机经轴染色机 喷射式染色机喷射式染色机 浸轧式染色机浸轧式染色机In batches 间歇染色间歇染色Continuously连续染色连续染色Dyes for cellulosic fabrics纤维素织物的染料纤维素织物的染料 Direct dye Reactive dye Vat dye Sulphur dye Azoic dye 直接染料直接染料 活性染料活性染料 还原染料还原染料 硫化染料硫化染料 偶氮染料偶氮染料Dir

45、ect dye 直接染料直接染料直接染料染色直接染料染色 直接染料是阴离子水溶性染料，能直接上染于纤维素纤维，色谱齐全。染色工艺以浸染为主，有些直接染料对硬水较为敏感，染浴须用软水或加入软水剂。Anionic dyes阴离子染料阴离子染料 Direct dye 直接染料直接染料 The simplicity of the dyeing process without the need for a mordant 染色工艺简单，不需要媒染剂媒染剂 Need a separate after treatment to enhance wet fastness 需要单独的后处理以提高湿牢度湿牢度Fe

46、atures 特点特点Direct dye process 直接染料染色过程直接染料染色过程 1 Preparation of dyebath 染浴准备阶段染浴准备阶段 2 Dyeing itself 染色阶段染色阶段 3 Subsequent treatment 后处理阶段后处理阶段Dye and auxiliaries are dissolved in water 染料和辅料溶于水中染料和辅料溶于水中At the temperature of 80- 100 温度在温度在80摄氏度到摄氏度到100摄氏度之间摄氏度之间The dye fabric is treated with fixing

47、 agent用固色剂将织物固色用固色剂将织物固色Reactive dye 活性染料活性染料 活性染料(reactive dye)，又称反应性染料。为在染色时与纤维起化学反应的一类染料。这类染料分子中含有能与纤维发生化学反应的基团，染色时染料与纤维反应，二者之间形成共价键，成为整体，使耐洗和耐摩擦牢度提高。Reactive dye 活性染料活性染料Water soluble水溶性水溶性Reactive groups活性团活性团React with hydroxyl groups on cellulose与纤维素中的氢氧与纤维素中的氢氧根反应根反应Vat dyes 还原染料还原染料 还原染料染色还

48、原染料染色 还原染料色谱基本齐全，色泽鲜艳，染色品的各项牢度优良,是纤维素纤维的常用染料。按其化学结构大致可分为靛类和蒽类两大品种。某些黄、橙、红色还原染料在曝晒过程中，能使纤维发生脆损。还原染料不溶于水，分子结构中含有羰基，可用连二亚硫酸钠（保险粉）等还原溶解在氢氧化钠溶液中，成为隐色体对纤维上染，染后再氧化回复成不溶性染料而固着在纤维上。还原染料隐色体对纤维素纤维的上染直接性较高，有些染料不易染得均匀,对组织紧密的织物不易染透,用悬浮体染色法可以避免这个缺点。Vat dyeing process 还原染料染色还原染料染色 1. dyeing with reduced vat 还原反应后的染

49、料染色 2. dyeing by pigmentation 染料悬浮体染色Insoluble in water 不溶于水不溶于水Sulphur dye 硫化染料硫化染料 硫化染料染色硫化染料染色 硫化染料不溶于水，染色品色泽不鲜艳，不耐氯漂，多数染料品种的日晒和水洗牢度良好。硫化染料应用很广，主要用于染制浓色产品，尤其是蓝色和黑色。它们的分子结构中发色体是通过硫原子相接，能被硫化钠还原生成-SNa基团，成为隐色体溶解于硫化钠溶液中而上染于纤维，经过氧化处理转变为不溶性染料而固着于纤维上。与还原染料隐色体染色相比，仅硫化染料的上染温度较高，多在近沸点进行。Sulphur dye 硫化染料硫化染料

50、Insoluble in water 不溶于水不溶于水Dye with sulphur dyes Converting a water-insoluble sulphur dye by reduction to a water-soluble leuco compound通过还原反应将非水溶性的硫化染料通过还原反应将非水溶性的硫化染料转为水溶性的无色化合物转为水溶性的无色化合物3.5 dyeing of protein fabric蛋白质纤维染色蛋白质纤维染色Silk 真丝真丝Wool 羊毛羊毛Dyeing of wool 羊毛染色羊毛染色Acid dyes 酸性染料酸性染料Wool is v

51、ery sensitive to alkali substances but has certain resistance to acid羊毛对碱敏感，但是有一定耐酸性羊毛对碱敏感，但是有一定耐酸性Dyeing of wool 羊毛染色羊毛染色 Acid dyes are anionic in the acid bath酸性染料在酸性溶液中阴离子化酸性染料在酸性溶液中阴离子化 can be absorbed and combined with the ionized wool fibers by the static electric force通过静电作用与阳离子化的羊毛纤维发生吸附并通过静电作用与阳离子化的羊毛纤维发生吸附并结合结合Acid