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1、Unit 10 The Jeaning of AmericaThis is the story of a sturdy American symbol which has now spread throughout mostof the world. The symbol is not the dollar. It is not even Coca-Cola. It is a simple pair of pants called blue jeans, and what the pants symbolize is what Alexis de Tocqueville called &quo
2、t;a manly and legitimate passion for equality-"Blue jeans are favored equally bybureaucrats and cowboys; bankers and deadbeats; fashion designers and beer drinkers.They draw no distinctions and recognize no classes; they are merely American. Yet they are sought after almost everywhere in the wo
3、rld - including Russia, where authorities recently broke up a teen-aged gang that was selling them on the black market for two hundred dollars a pair. They have been around for a long time, and it seems likely that they will outlive even the necktie.This ubiquitous American symbol was the invention
4、of a Bavarian-born Jew. His name was Levi Strauss. He was born in Bad Ocheim, Germany, in 1829, and during the European political turmoil of 1848 decided to take his chances in New York, to which his two brothers already had emigrated. Upon arrival, Levi soon found that his two brothers had exaggera
5、ted their tales of an easy life in the land of the main chance. They were landowners, they had told him; instead, he found them pushing needles, thread, pots, pans, ribbons, yam, scissors and buttons to housewives. For two years he was a lowly peddler, hauling some 180 pounds of sundries door-to-doo
6、r to eke out a marginal living.When a married sister in San Francisco offered to pay his way West in 1850, he jumped at the opportunity, taking with him bolts of canvas he hoped to sell for tenting.It was the wrong kind of canvas for that purpose, but while talking with a miner down from the mother
7、lode, he learned that pants - sturdy pants that would stand up to the rigors of the digging - were almost impossible to find. Opportunity beckoned.On the spot, Strauss measured the man's girth and inseam with a piece of string and, for six dollars in gold dust, had the canvas tailored into a pai
8、r of stiff but rugged pants. The miner was delighted with the result, word got around about "those pants of Levi's," and Strauss was in business. The company has been in business ever since.When Strauss ran out of canvas, he wrote his two brothers to send more. He received instead a to
9、ugh, brown cotton cloth made in Nimes, France - called serge de Nimes and swiftly shortened to "denim" (the word "jeans" derives from Genes, the French word for Genoa, where a similar cloth was produced). Almost from the first, Strauss had his cloth dyed the distinctive indigo th
10、at gave blue jeans their name, but it was not until the 1870s that he added the copper rivets which have long since become a company trademark. The rivets were the idea of a Virginia City, Nevada, tailor, Jacob W. Davis, who added them to pacify a mean-tempered miner called Alkali Ike. Alkali, the s
11、tory goes, complained that the pockets of his jeans always tore when he stuffed them with ore samples and demanded that Davis do something about it. As a kind of joke, Davis took the pants to a blacksmith and had the pockets riveted; once again, the idea worked so well that word got around; in 1873
12、Strauss appropriated and patented the gimmick - and hired Davis as a regional manager.By this time, Strauss had taken both his brothers and two brothers-in-law into the company and was ready for his third San Francisco store. Over the ensuing years the company prospered locally, and by the time of h
13、is death in 1902, Strauss had become a man of prominence in California. For three decades thereafter the business remained profitable though small, with sales largely confined to the working people of the Westcowboys, lumberjacks, railroad workers, and the like. Lev i ' seans were first introduc
14、ed to the East, apparently, during the dude-ranch craze of the 1930s, when vacationing Easterners returned and spread the word about the wonderful pants with rivets. Another boost came in World War II, when blue jeans were declared an essential commodity and were sold only to people engaged in defen
15、se work. From a company with fifteen salespeople, two plants, and almost no business east of the Mississippi in 1946, the organization grew in thirty years to include a sales force of more than twenty-two thousand, with fifty plants and offices in thirty five countries. Each year, more than 250,000,
16、000 items of Levi's clothing are sold - including more than 83,000,000 pairs of riveted blue jeans. They have become, through marketing,word of mouth,anddemonstrable reliability, the common pants of America. They can be purchased pre-wash-ed, pre-faded, and pre-shrunk for the suitably proletaria
17、n look. They adapt themselves to any sort of idiosyncratic use; women slit them at the inseams and convert them into long skirts, men chop them off above the knees and turn them into something to be worn while challenging the surf. Decorations and ornamentations abound.The pants have become a tradit
18、ion, and along the way have acquired a history of their own - so much so that the company has opened a museum in San Francisco. There was, for example, the turn-of-the-century trainman who replaced a faulty coupling with a pair of jeans; the Wyoming man who used his jeans as a towrope to haul his ca
19、r out of a ditch; the Californian who found several pairs in an abandoned mine, wore them, then discovered they were sixty-three years old and still as good as new and turned them over to the Smithsonian as a tribute to their toughness. And then there is the particularly terrifying story of the care
20、less construction worker who dangled fifty-two stories above the street until rescued, his sole support the Levi' s belt loop through which his rope washooked.美国的牛仔裤之路本文讲述了美国一个坚实的象征物,如今已经普及世界大局部地区.这个象征并不是美元.也不是可口可乐.而是一条被称作蓝色牛仔裤的普通裤子.这种裤子所象征的,正如亚 克力西德托儿所谓的对 平等的果断的正当的追求无论是官员还是牛仔,银行家还是赖账 徒,时尚设计师还是酗
21、酒者都同样青睐蓝色牛仔裤.这种裤子不分上下贵贱,只要是美国人都可以穿.可是牛仔裤几乎在世界的任何地方都广受欢送-包括俄罗斯,其当局最近刚刚粉碎了一个在黑市贩卖牛仔裤的团伙,他们的牛仔裤卖到了200美元一条.牛仔裤已经流行了很长时间了,看起来其生命力已经超过了领带.这种无处不在的美国象征是一个出生在巴伐利亚的犹太人创造的.他与1982年出生于德国的巴德奥且姆.1848年欧洲政局动乱期间, 他决定去纽约试试运气,他的两个哥哥已经移民到了那里. 到了纽约,里维发现他的两个哥哥广域他们在这片充满机遇的土地上生 活的比拟安逸的说法有点言过其实.他们说他们拥有土地.可他发现他们正向家庭主妇推销针线、锅罐、
22、缎带、见到和纽扣.里维做了两年寒酸的小贩,拉着 180磅的杂货挨家挨户 的叫卖,勉强维持生计.他的一个嫁到旧金山的姐姐为他提供西行路费,他急忙抓住这个机会,带着几个帆布卷,他打算卖给别人做帐篷.岂料这些帆布并不适合做帐篷,不过里维与自主矿脉的矿工交谈后了解到,人们买不到耐得起采矿磨损的坚实耐穿的裤子.时机在向他招手.施特劳斯当场用一根带子量了那人的腰围和裤长,用帆布做成了一条粗硬的耐穿的裤 子,卖了六美元的沙金. 矿工觉得很满意,于是有关里维斯的裤子一词不胫而走.他的公司一直在运转.当施特莱斯用完了那些帆布料,他写信给他的两个哥哥, 让他们在送点过来. 没想到却受到了法国尼姆产的一种坚韧的棕色
23、的棉布.称作 尼姆哗叽serge de Nimes ,很快就简称为劳动布"英语词jeans牛仔裤源自于法语的 Genes,即英语的Genoa 热那亚此 地盛产一种类似的棉布.从一开始,斯特赖斯将他的布料染成了湛蓝色.蓝牛仔裤因此而 得名.不过,知道19世纪70年代,他才在牛仔裤上加了铜柳钉.长期以来,这铜柳丁成; 公司的标志.给裤子加上柳丁是内华达州的一名名叫雅各布W戴维斯的裁缝所想出的主意.他这样做是为了安抚一个名叫叫阿尔克利.艾可的脾气暴躁的矿工.这名矿工抱怨他往牛仔裤里放矿石标本时,牛仔裤的口袋那里总是被撕破,他要求戴维斯想想方法.戴维斯有点像开玩笑,把裤子拿到了铁匠铺,给口袋打上柳丁.这一招果然奏效,消息不胫而走.1873年,施特莱斯采纳了这一小创造,出资为其申请了专利,并雇用了戴维斯去做地区经理.这时候,斯特赖斯把他的两
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