研讨会氨基酸表面活性剂毛华丽翻译

1、个人简介 Introduction 毛华丽 Lily Mao 2009年毕业于浙江工业大学，专业为微生物与生化药学，获得硕士学位。 Graduated from Zhejiang University of Technology with Masters degree for Microbiology it is easy to get facial cleanser; low soap content leads to narrow changing temperature range and rough appearance. 1.5% 氨基酸表面活性剂在不同pH条件下的起泡性能 Foam

2、ability of amino acid surfactants at different pH 1、月桂酰肌氨酸钠pH在5-9.5区间内均有良好的起泡性能，酸性条件下更佳. Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate shows excellent foamability at pH 5-9.5, and in acid condition is better. 2、椰油酰甘氨酸钾在pH7时具有良好的起泡效果，pH中性条件下有较好的耐硬水性能. Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate shows excellent foamability when pH7, and

3、 shows excellent hard water resistance in neutral condition. 测试方法：SITA 泡沫仪，900rpm，30s，样品浓度：0.3% Test method： SITA Foam Tester，900rpm，30s，sample concentration: 0.3% 氨基酸表面活性剂在不同pH条件下的起泡性能 Foamability of amino acid surfactants at different pH 月桂酰谷氨酸钠在酸性条件下起泡性能优异，当pH7时，其在硬水中形成月桂酰谷氨酸钙反而有 较优异的表面活性。 Sodium

4、 Lauroyl Glutamate shows excellent foamability in acid condition, when pH7, it shows excellent surface activity for the generation of Calcium Lauroyl Glutamate. 月桂酰谷氨酸钠与脂肪酸复配泡沫性能 Foamability of Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate combined with fatty acid 泡沫质量评价方法：配制10%的AMIN LGNa溶液，加热至35，取此溶液4ml用双手搓15秒，拍照，观察泡沫的

5、质与量。 Test method: Prepare 10% Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate solution, heat to 35, take 4mL into hand and rub for 15s, photo it and compare the quality and quantity of the foam. AMIN LGNa溶液 AMIN LGNa solution AMIN LGNa添加1%十四酸 Add 1% myristic acid into AMIN LGNa solution AMIN LGNa添加1%十二酸 Add 1%lauric acid

6、into AMIN LGNa solution AMIN LGNa添加1%混合酸十四酸/十二酸=7：3 Add 1% myristic acid and lauric acid at the ratio 7:3 into AMIN LGNa solution AMIN LGNa的泡沫舒适，细密、柔滑，呈乳脂状。与脂肪酸结合可改变泡沫的状态，添加混合脂肪酸可改变增加泡沫的质与量 The foam of AMIN LGNa is small, fine, smooth and creamy. When combined with fatty acid, the condition of the f

7、oam will change: the quality and quantity of the foam will be improved. 氨基酸表面活性剂乳化力性能测定及肤感 Emulsifying ability tests and skin feeling 滋润感 Emollient 碱性 Alkalinity 酸性 Acidity 清爽感 Refreshing AMIN AMIN LG95F AMIN GCK30 皂基 Soap AMIN LS30 测试方法：量筒法测试乳化力，30ml0.3%表面活性剂溶液与30ml白油混合震荡乳化，记录分层时间。 Test method: Tes

8、t with measuring cylinder, mix 30mL 0.3% surfactant solution with 30mL white oil, record the time of phase separating. 氨基酸表面活性剂增稠解决方案 Solution of viscosity increasing of amino acid surfactants 结论Conclusion: 1、三种增稠方案在pH=4.5-5.5之间可以达到较好的增稠效果 The thickening ability is the best when pH is among 4.5-5.5

9、under the 3 condition 2、泡沫性能，pH在5.0以下有更优的起泡性能 The foamability is better when pH is under 5.0 不同氨基酸表面活性剂在不同pH条件下的粘度 Viscosity of different amino acid surfactants under different pH 参考配方 Formula 活性物添加量 Active content（%） AES(70%)9 TC-CAB 353 AMIN 3 JR4000.3 NaCl0.5 pH Viscosity/mPa.S 增稠机理？ 氯化钠对含氨基酸表面活性

10、剂体系粘度的影响 The influence of NaCl for the viscosity of amino acid surfactants system 参考配方 Formula 活性物添加量 Active content（%） AES(70%)9 TC-CAB353 AMIN 3 JR4000.25 NaCl0.5 结论Conclusion： 氯化钠对三种氨基酸表面活性剂的增稠性能：AMIN GCK30AMIN LS30AMIN LG30 The influence of NaCl for the viscosity of 3 kinds of amino acid surfact

11、ants: AMIN GCK30AMIN LS30AMIN LG30 研究洗发水在适当的固定pH条件下，氯化钠对含氨基酸表面活性剂体系粘度的影响 Test the influence of NaCl for the viscosity of shampoo at specified pH 3、氨基酸表面活性剂在洗发香波中的应用及选择 Application and optimal solution for amino acid surfactants 日本无硫酸盐洗发水例 Sulfate-free shampoo in Japan 配料表： 水，月桂基甜菜碱，甲基椰油酰基牛磺酸钠，椰油酰胺DE

12、A，丁二醇， 月桂酰胺丙基羟磺基甜菜碱，椰油酰谷氨酸二钠，吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐， 甘草酸二钾，椰油酰胺MEA，椰油酰谷氨酸钠，提取物，聚季铵盐-10 Ingredients: Water, Lauryl betaine, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Cocamide DEA, Butanediol, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Disodium cocoyl glutamate, Piroctone Olamine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate, Cocamide MEA, Sodium Cocoyl

13、Glutamate, Extract, Polyquaternium-10 含有氨基酸表面活性剂的洗发水一般都粘度较低 Normally, appear low viscosity 洗发水的配方突破点 Shampoo formula breakthrough 天然 Natural 无硫酸盐 Sulfate-free 温和 Mild 低刺激 Low irritation 洗护分开 Cleaning, conditioning separation 宝洁体系洗护二合一 P&G system-2 in 1 新领域 New field： 无硫酸盐 Sulfate-free 洗护二合一 Shampoo,

14、 conditioner 2 in 1 Single variable comparison test of shampoo with amino acid surfactants 在本实验配方中，肌氨酸盐比其它在梳理性方面有一定优势 Sarcosinate surfactant shows better combing performance in this test. Main ingredients: AES 9% or 12%, CAB35 3%, Amino acid surfactants 3% or 0%, PQ-10 0.5% Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate S

15、odium Cocoyl Glycinate Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Blank Untreated(Wet Hair)Before rinse After rinse After dry 无硫酸盐洗发水 Sulfate-free shampoo 主要成分 Main ingredients： 卡波姆380 Carbomer 380 椰油酰胺丙基羟基磺基甜菜碱 Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine 月桂酰肌氨酸钠 Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 月桂酰谷氨酸钠 Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 聚季铵盐-

16、10 Polyquaternium-10 乳化硅油 Silicone emulsion 防腐剂 Preservative 香精 Fragrance 粘度 Viscosity：5,000-10,000 成本 Cost：7-8 RMB/kg 无硫酸盐氨基酸洗发水的开发参考配方框架 Reference formula for sulfate-free amino acid surfactants shampoo 无硫酸盐氨基酸洗发水与市售某产品对比 Comparison of sulfate-free amino acid surfactants shampoo with marketed prod

17、uct 测试人员信息 Test person information测试产品信息 Sample information 人数 Number 10个品牌 Brand 力士清新动感柔亮洗发乳 LUX Super Rich Fresh Attitude Shampoo 性别 Gender 女性 Female产品功效/ 特点 Function/ features 清爽质地，深入修护损伤，特别添加天然橙酸 精粹，持久控油， 秀发重获水油平衡，清新飘 逸。Fresh texture, thoroughly repair damage, with special orange essence, can he

18、lp achieve long-lasting oil control, regain water-oil balance, fresh and elegant 发长 Hair length 长发（过肩） Long hair 年龄 Age2446 发质 Hair quality 7人中性发质、2人干性发质、1人油性发质 Neutral hair : 7, dry hair: 2, oil hair: 1 产品价格 Price 49.0RMB/400ml 发型 Hair style 6人自然发型、4人染烫或拉直发 Natural hair: 6, Dyed, permed or straight

19、ened hair: 4 无硫酸盐氨基酸洗发水与市售某产品对比 Comparison of sulfate-free amino acid surfactants shampoo with marketed product 样品名称Sample 评价项目Test item 市售某洗发水 Marketed product 天赐氨基酸洗发水 Tinci amino acid surfactants shampoo 配方A与配方B的差异性/% Difference between formula A & b 泡沫的丰富程度 Foam Richness4.24.6-8.7 泡沫质感 Foam text

20、ure4.14.2-2.4 冲水时头发的滑涩感 Feeling during rinsing 3.83.9-2.6 湿发时的梳理性/顺滑感Combability & smoothness of wet hair 4.03.92.6 湿发时的软度 Softness of wet hair4.04.00 干发的梳理性/顺滑感 Combability & smoothness of wet hair 3.83.80 干发时的滋润感 Moisturization of dry hair 3.94.0-2.5 干发时的软度 Softness of dry hair4.04.1-2.4 选择更优人数 Pr

21、eferable number5 persons5persons 4、结晶型氨基酸洁面膏介绍 Introduction of crystallized amino acid facial cleanser 结晶型氨基酸洁面膏 Crystallized amino acid facial cleanser 固体（结晶）与液体混合 Mixture of solid(crystal) and liquid v 结晶 Crystal 表面活性剂饱和溶液 Saturated surfactants solution 室温Room temperature 80-50 45 Mix solid & liqu

22、id Uniform liquidCrystallize solid 结晶型洁面膏中主次表活的选择 Choice of primary / secondary surfactants in crystallized amino acid facial cleanser 典型的结晶型洁面膏配方 Typical formula of crystallized amino acid facial cleanser ： 1. 表面活性剂 Surfactants: 15-30% 2. 多元醇 Polyol: 20-40%- 甘油 、山梨醇 、1,3-丁二醇、丙二醇、 PEG-6等 Glycinate,

23、sorbitol, butanediol, propylene glycol, etc. 3. 水 Water: 30-40% 表面活性剂的选择 Choice of surfactants ： 1、用液体的氨基酸表面活性剂比较难做膏状的洁面产品 Liquid amino acid surfactants are hard to make paste facial cleanser 2、粉末、片状、颗粒状、糊状 Powder, flake, granular, paste 3、溶解性：偏低 Solubility: low 结晶型氨基酸洁面膏应用例 Sample of crystallized a

24、mino acid facial cleanser 配料表： 水，月桂酰谷氨酸钠，丙二醇，PEG-150硬脂酸酯，半乳糖酵母 样菌发酵产物滤液，PCA钠，乙二醇硬脂酸酯，椰油酰胺MEA， 丁二醇，提取物等 Ingredients: Water, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Propylene Glycol, PEG-150 Stearate, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Sodium PCA, Glycol Stearate, Cocamide MEA, Butanediol, Extract, etc. SK-II柔肤洁面乳 SK-I

25、I Facial treatment cleanser 上市时间 Time-to-market：2010.12 120.0g 82.71 天赐纯氨基酸洁面膏参考框架 Reference formula for Tinci amino acid facial cleanser 纯氨基酸洁面膏 Amino acid facial cleanser 主要成分 Main ingredients： 月桂酰谷氨酸钠 Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 月桂酰肌氨酸钠 Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 多元醇 Polyol 脂肪酸 Fatty acid 珠光剂 Pearli

26、ng agent 丙烯酸（酯）类共聚物 Acrylates Copolymer 氯化钠 Sodium Chloride 防腐剂 Preservative 香精 Fragrance 成本 Cost：22-25 RMB/kg 结膏点 Crystallized temperature：45 纯氨基酸洁面膏参考工艺 Reference manufacture process of amino acid facial cleanser 40水浴浸泡30分钟后，缓慢搅拌 40 water bath for 30min, mix slowly 80-85 通冷凝水降温至55-60 Cool to 55-60

27、 with condensate water 丙烯酸（酯）类共聚物 Acrylates Copolymer 结晶温度46-48 Crystallize temperature 46-48 香精、防腐剂 Preservative, fragrance 去离子水/AMIN LG95F/其他表活/多元醇 D.I. water/AMIN LG95F/other surfactants/polyol 持续搅拌至室温，熟化至第二天，挤压灌装 Constantly mix to room temperature, cure to the next day, packing 氨基酸洁面膏对比 Comparis

28、on of amino acid facial cleansers v 结晶 Crystal 表面活性剂饱和溶液 Saturated surfactants solution v 结晶 Crystal 表面活性剂饱和溶液 Saturated surfactants solution 聚合物增稠剂 Polymer thickner 纯氨基酸洁面膏(SKII) SK-II amino acid facial cleanser 天赐氨基酸洁面膏 Tinci amino acid facial cleanser 纯氨基酸洁面膏（SKII）SK-II amino acid facial cleanser

29、 天赐纯氨基酸洁面膏 Tinci amino acid facial cleanser 48外观 Appearance at 48 流动水样 Flowable liquid可成条 Still keep strip 0外观及挤出难易 Appearance at 0 & difficulty or ease of squeezing 容易 Easy 容易 Easy 泡沫性能 FoamabilityNext page 洁面膏泡沫性能对比 Foamability of amino acid facial cleansers 测试方法：SITA泡沫仪，900转/min，10s/次，12次，称取样品2g至

30、400g150ppm硬水 Test method: SITA bubble instrument, 900rpm, 10s * 12 times,add 2g sample into 400g 150ppm hard water 铺展及冲洗性能对比图 （室温18） Comparison of spreadability & rinsing ability (room temperature 18) 0.5g样品 0.5g sample 涂抹三次 Rub for 3 times 起泡10秒 Foam for 10s 起泡20秒 Foam for 20s Tinci amino acid faci

31、al cleanser A marketed amino Acid facial cleanser 0.5g样品 0.5g sample 涂抹三次 Rub for 3 times 起泡10秒 Foam for 10s 起泡20秒 Foam for 20s 天赐氨基酸表面活性剂介绍 Introduction of Tinci amino acid surfactants 氨基酸类表面活性剂 Amino acid surfactants 月桂酰肌氨酸钠/月桂酰肌氨酸TEA盐 Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate / TEA Lauroyl Sarcosinate AMIN LS30

32、 、AMIN LSNa、AMINLST30 椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠 Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate / Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate AMIN GCK30、AMIN GC30、AMIN GCNa 月桂酰谷氨酸钠/椰油酰谷氨酸钾 Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate / Potassium Cocoyl Glutamate AMIN LG30、AMIN LGNa、AMIN LG95F、AMIN CGK30 Thanks Q&A 个人简介 Introduction 毛华丽 Lily Mao 2009年毕业于浙江工业大学，专业为微生物与生化

33、药学，获得硕士学位。 Graduated from Zhejiang University of Technology with Masters degree for Microbiology & Biochemical Pharmacy at 2009. 毕业后在国内某知名日化企业从事日化产品研发，现任天赐日化事业部技术 服务工程师，负责氨基酸类表面活性剂的应用及推广。 Served in a famous personal care company for personal care products research before, now serve in Tinci personal

34、 care department as technical service engineer for application and promotion of amino acid surfactants. 联系方式Tel邮箱Email： 1、氨基酸表面活性剂的市场现状分析 Market analysis of amino acid surfactants 氨基酸表面活性剂在个人护理品（新品）中应用占有率 Amino acid surfactants market share in new products Products 2008.10- 2009.9 2009.

35、10- 2010.9 2010.10- 2011.9 2011.10- 2012.9 2012.10-2013.9 面部/颈部护理产品数量 Total face/neck care products711683408188100599679 面部/颈部含氨基酸产品数量 Face/neck care products with amino acid surfactants78487695511671241 6-22% 香皂/淋浴产品数量 Total soap/shower products8847987194601032910118 香皂/淋浴含氨基酸产品数量 Soap/shower produ

36、cts with amino acid surfactants614768802997958 洗发水产品数量 Total shampoo products 37074159404445444346 洗发水含氨基酸产品数量 Shampoo products with amino acid surfactants445518566739674 婴幼儿（0-4岁）香皂/淋浴产品数量 Soap/shower products for baby (0-4 years old)411463408440419 婴幼儿（0-4岁）香皂/淋浴含氨基酸产品数量 Soap/shower products for b

37、aby (0-4 years old) with amino acid surfactants 7874658381 儿童（5-12岁）香皂/淋浴产品数量 Soap/shower products for child (5-12years old) 376382373431482 儿童（5-12岁）香皂/淋浴含氨基酸产品数量 Soap/shower products for child (5-12 years old) with amino acid surfactants 2444466252 数据来源Source： GNPD, 2008.9-2013.9 氨基酸表面活性剂在不同pH条件下的

38、起泡性能 Foamability of amino acid surfactants at different pH 1、月桂酰肌氨酸钠pH在5-9.5区间内均有良好的起泡性能，酸性条件下更佳. Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate shows excellent foamability at pH 5-9.5, and in acid condition is better. 2、椰油酰甘氨酸钾在pH7时具有良好的起泡效果，pH中性条件下有较好的耐硬水性能. Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate shows excellent foamability when

39、 pH7, and shows excellent hard water resistance in neutral condition. 测试方法：SITA 泡沫仪，900rpm，30s，样品浓度：0.3% Test method： SITA Foam Tester，900rpm，30s，sample concentration: 0.3% 月桂酰谷氨酸钠与脂肪酸复配泡沫性能 Foamability of Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate combined with fatty acid 泡沫质量评价方法：配制10%的AMIN LGNa溶液，加热至35，取此溶液4ml用双手搓15秒，拍照，观察泡沫的质与量。 Test method: Prep