扎染制作工艺与方法

1、扎染制作工艺与方法扎染制作工艺 扎染是中国一种古老的防染工艺。它先将织物进行捆扎然后进行染色，在染色过程中被捆扎的织物受到轻重、松紧不同的压力，被色浆浸渗的程度也不同，因此产生深浅虚实、变化多端的色晕，染成的图案纹样神奇多变，色泽鲜艳明快，图案简洁质朴，且有令人惊叹的艺术魅力。在云南这块素以“植物王国”著称的地方，采用板兰根等天然染色剂制做的各种扎染制品，对皮肤无任何伤害，颜色朴素、自然、优雅大方，图案简洁明快，集艺术欣赏与实用价值为一体。工艺程序染前处理-捆扎布料-浸水-染色-冲洗晾干-熨平完成制做扎染一般需三个步骤：染前处理，捆扎染色，染后处理染前处理为保证扎染制作过程中染色均匀，需对织物

2、进行染前处理。因为织物上常带有浆料、助剂及一定成份的天然杂质。染前处理有：退浆：目的是除支浆料，可用碱液、氧化剂或淀粉酶等药剂加水沸煮布料退浆。用量：药剂为布重的3%，水为布重的30倍左右。精炼：目的是除去纤维上的天然杂质及残留浆料，右用烧碱加水沸煮。用量：烧碱为布重的3%，水为布重的30倍左右。漂白：用于除去色素及残留杂质，常用次氯酸钠或氧化氢加水沸煮。用量：漂白剂为布重的3%，水为布重的30倍左右。另外，丝绸的染前处理是用皂液加碳酸钠加水煮精炼。熨平待用：用电熨斗将漂洗过的布熨平以备描绘图案及捆扎用。捆扎染色将已设计好的图案纹样用画粉在布上做记号或用绘稿液描上，然后捆扎或缝结布料。完成后浸

3、入水中湿透，取出稍晾，待不滴水后放入已备好的染液中或浸染或煮染一定时间，然后用清水冲洗、晾干。染后处理晾后的捆所物可在不完全干透时解开扎结处，并用熨斗趁潮湿熨平整，完成。 白族扎染的制作 扎染时用的染缸，里面是板蓝根。扎染的制作方法别具一格，旧籍曾生动描述了古人制作扎染的工艺过程：“撷撮采线结之，而后染色。即染，则解其结，凡结处皆原色，余则入染矣，其色斑斓。”制作时，根据作者喜欢的花样纹式，用线将白布缚着，做成一定襞折的小纹，再行浸入染缸里浸染。如此反复，每浸一次色深一层，即“青出于蓝”。浸染到一定的程度后，取出晾干，拆去缬结，便出现蓝底白花的图案花纹来。这些图案多以圆点、不规则图形以及其他简

4、单的几何图形组成。构图严谨，布局丰满，多为二方或四方连续纹样。扎染取材广泛，常以当地的山川风物作为创作素材，其图案或苍山彩云，或洱海浪花，或塔荫蝶影，或神话传说，或民族风情，或花鸟鱼虫，妙趣天成，千姿百态。在浸染过程中，由于花纹的边界受到蓝靛溶液的浸润，图案产生自然晕纹，青里带翠，凝重素雅，薄如烟雾，轻若蝉翅，似梦似幻，若隐若现，韵味别致。扎染的制作方法 扎染一般以棉白布或棉麻混纺白布为原料，主要染料来自苍山上生长的寥蓝、板蓝根、艾蒿等天然植物的蓝靛溶液，尤其是板蓝根。以前用来染布的板蓝根都是山上野生的，属多年生草本，开粉色小花，后来用量大了，染布的人家就在山上自己种植，好的可长到半人高，每年

5、三四月间收割下来，先将之泡出水，注到木制的大染缸里，掺一些石灰或工业碱，就可以用来染布。扎染的制作方法别具一格，旧籍生动地描述了古人制作扎染的工艺过程：撷撮采线结之，而后染色。即染，则解其结，凡结处皆原色，余则入染矣，其色斑斓。扎染的主要步骤有画刷图案、绞扎、浸泡、染布、蒸煮、晒干、拆线、漂洗、碾布等，其中主要有扎花、浸染两道工序，技术关键是绞扎手法和染色技艺。染缸、染棒、晒架、石碾等是扎染的主要工具。1、扎花扎花，原名扎疙瘩，即在布料选好后，按花纹图案要求，在布料上分别使用撮皱、折叠、翻卷、挤揪等方法，使之成为一定形状，然后用针线一针一针地缝合或缠扎，将其扎紧缝严，让布料变成一串串疙瘩。扎染

6、用的布料过去完全采用白族自家手工织的较粗的白棉土布，现在土布已较少，主要用工业机织生白布、包装布等布料，吸水性强，质地柔软。先由民间美术设计人员根据民间传统和市场的需要，加上自己一定的创作，画出各式各样的图案，由印工用刺了洞的蜡纸在生白布上印下设计好的图案，再由妇女将布领去，用细致的手工按图案缝上，再送到扎染厂或各家染坊。扎花是以缝为主、缝扎结合的手工扎花方法，具有表现范围广泛、刻画细腻、变幻无穷的特点。2、浸染浸染，即将扎好疙瘩的布料先用清水浸泡一下，再放入染缸里，或浸泡冷染，或加温煮热染，经一定时间后捞出晾干，然后再将布料放入染缸浸染。如此反复浸染，每浸一次色深一层，即青出于蓝。缝了线的部

7、分，因染料浸染不到，自然成了好看的花纹图案，又因为人们在缝扎时针脚不一、染料浸染的程度不一，带有一定的随意性，染出的成品很少一模一样，其艺术意味也就多了一些。浸染到一定的程度后，最后捞出放入清水将多余的染料漂除，晾干后拆去缬结，将疙瘩挑开，熨平整，被线扎缠缝合的部分末受色，呈现出空心状的白布色，便是花；其余部分成深蓝色，即是地，便出现蓝底白花的图案花纹来，至此，一块漂亮的扎染布就完成了。花和地之间往往还呈现出一定的过渡性渐变的效果，多冰裂纹，自然天成，生动活泼，克服了画面、图案的呆板，使得花色更显丰富自然。浸染采用手工反复浸染工艺，形成以花形为中心，变幻玄妙的多层次晕纹，凝重素雅，古朴雅致。扎

8、染取材广泛，常以当地的山川风物作为创作素材，其图案或苍山彩云，或洱海浪花，或塔荫蝶影，或神话传说，或民族风情，或花鸟鱼虫，妙趣天成，千姿百态。在浸染过程中，由于花纹的边界受到蓝靛溶液的浸润，图案产生自然晕纹，青里带翠，凝重素雅，薄如烟雾，轻若蝉翅，似梦似幻，若隐若现，韵味别致。有一种回归自然的拙趣。近年来，大理喜洲白族妇女在图案艺术、古代结扎技法和现代印染工艺相结合的基础上，推陈出新，发展了彩色扎染这种新的手工印染技术。彩色扎染突破了传统单色扎染色调的局限，强调多色的配合和色彩的统一。利用扎缝时宽、窄、松、紧、疏、密的差异，造成染色的深浅不一，形成不同纹样的艺术效果。特别值得一提的是，在一些白

9、族地区，一种称为反朴法仿扎染的工艺制品正应运而生。反朴法仿扎染是在古代扎染基础上发展起来的像扎染而非扎染，像泼画而非泼画，图案花纹兼有扎染与泼画之风格的新工艺。其特点是在扎染工艺上省去了扎结这一工序，图案花纹色晕层次更为丰富，呈现出错杂融浑、斑斓厚重的色彩效果。彩色扎染和反朴法仿扎染具有同曲异工之妙，能产生朦胧流动的风格和回归自然的美，更好地表现物像，增添艺术魅力。随着市场需求的扩大，扎染的图案也越来越复杂和多样化，起码有数百种之多，而且各种尺寸大小都有，衍生出扎染包、扎染帽、扎染衣裙等琳琅满目的工艺品。 hn3xtkknbycudxqa7fhyi2chhi92tgkqcwa3ptgshls5

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