中国传统服饰(英文)【学习内容】

1、Chinese Traditional Costume,1,古柏文档,Chinese Traditional Costume,Han Dynasty Sui and Tang dynasties Song and Yuan dynasties Ming and Qing Dynasties the Republic of China Modern society,2,古柏文档,Hanfu,Hanfu is known as Hanzhuang , is the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people. The term Hanfu derives

2、 from the Book of Han,which says,then many came to the court to pay homage and were delighted at the clothing style of the Han. (后数来朝贺，乐汉衣服制度,3,古柏文档,Yi(衣)：Any open cross-collar garment, and worn by both sexes. Pao(袍)：Any closed full-body garment, worn only by men. Ru(襦)：Open cross-collar shirt. Shan

3、(衫):Open cross-collar shirt or jacket that is worn over the yi. Qun(裙) or chang(裳)：Skirt for women and men. Ku(裤)：Trousers or pants,The structure,4,古柏文档,Informal dress,Types include tops(yi) and bottoms (divided further into pants and skirts for both genders), and one-piece robes that wrap around th

4、e body once or several times,5,古柏文档,Semi-formal dress,chang(裳):a pleated skirt bixi(蔽膝)：long front cloth panel attached from the waist belt. zhaoshan(罩衫)：long open fronted coat,6,古柏文档,Formal dress,Xuanduan(玄端)：a very formal dark robe, equivalent to the Western white tie Shenyi(深衣)：a long full -body

5、garment Curving-front robe(曲裾): diagonal body wrapping Panlingpao(盤领袍):closed, round-collared robe; mostly used for official dress,7,古柏文档,Costume in Tang Dynasty,8,古柏文档,The brief introduction of costume in Tang Dynasty The features of costume in Tang Dynasty How does costume in Tang Dynasty come int

6、o being,Contents,9,古柏文档,Tang Dynasty,From the Sui to the Tang, the ancient Chinese clothing developed to its peak. The political stability, economic development, manufacturing and textile technology, and the frequent foreign relations contributed to the development of clothing. The clothing in this

7、period had formed the most fantastic chapter in the clothing history,10,古柏文档,Features,The general features of womens costume in Tang dynasty: topless(上空装，袒胸装） exposed arm oblique collar large sleeves long skirt dress All of these make it deserve the most typical open clothing style.The clothing mate

8、rials are exquisite,the structure is natural,graceful and elegant,and adornments are splendid,11,古柏文档,Features,This is the pictureBeauties Wearing Flowersshowing a lady strolling in the court. The lady was wearing a leno-made upper garment,high-waist skirt and without underdress.This is called “topl

9、ess,12,古柏文档,The Tang women dressed in sets of garments,and each set a unique in itself,Features,13,古柏文档,In general,the Tang womens dresses can be classified into three categories: The traditional ruqun(襦裙) or double layered or padded short jacket that is typical of central China,Features,14,古柏文档,The

10、 hufu,or alien dress that came from the Silk Road,Cross-Dressing(namely,girls dressed as boys),the full set of male garments that broke the tradition of the Confucian formalities,Features,15,古柏文档,How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being,Frist,in Chinese history,the Tang Dynasty was a period

11、of unity and prosperity when the polity and economy were highly developed.Materialistic abundance and a relatively relaxed social atmosphere gave the Tang Dynasty an unprecedented opportunity to develop culturally,reaching its height in poetry,painting,music and dance,16,古柏文档,Second,based on the pro

12、gress made in silk reeling and dyeing techniques,the variety quality and quantity of texitle materials reached an unprecedented height,How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being,17,古柏文档,How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being,Third,the Tang govement was tolerant,and often appreciative

13、 of religions,art and culture from the outside world.Though the forms of garments were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty and Sui Dynasty,they have distinctive styles by itself being influenced by cultures and arts of the Western Regions,18,古柏文档,Thank you for your listening,19,古柏文档,Song Dynas

14、ty,Costume of Song Dynasty (960-1279) was simple and natural, reflecting the development tendency of the era,The style of costume in Song Dynasty tended to be conservative, impressing people with simple, pure and elegant feelings. The main characteristics of womens clothing are narrow, long, thin,唐代

15、文化是一种开放的类型，但宋代文化则是一种相对收敛的类型，两者有很大的差异，宋代在政治上虽然开放民主， 但由于“程朱理学”的思想禁锢，和对外政策的妥协退让，服饰文化不再艳丽奢华，而是简洁质朴。宋代强调“存天理，灭人欲”的观念，使人的个体对立性全部仰制了，对妇女的约束也推到了极点，所以宋代女装拘谨、保守，色彩淡雅恬静，宋代不论权贵的皇亲国戚，还是一般的百姓，都爱穿着直领, 对襟的褙子，因为既舒适得体，又显得典雅大方,20,古柏文档,Song Dynasty,The clothing style of Song Dynasty is characterized by its elegance. Me

16、n usually wore gowns with round collars, while women wore short jackets or coats with matching short robes or Chinese-style jackets with buttons down the front. This elegant style was influenced by the dress of the northern minority peoples.Gauze pants. Southern Song dynasty .Chayuanshan, Fuzhou, Fu

17、jian province.This pair of pants is made from extremely thin gauze decorated with precious objects (gold ingots, swastikas, coral, rhinocerotic horns, dharma wheels), lozenges and flowers, all arranged in an elegant and orderly manner. Pants in this style were popular in the Song dynasty and usually

18、 worn under a long skirt,21,古柏文档,Song Dynasty,Ithasalreadybeganfoot-bindingintheSongdynastywhen sancunjinlianhascameintobeing,三寸金莲,22,古柏文档,Yuan Dynasty,The Yuan Dynasty (1279-1368) was the amalgamation age ofethnic groupsin Chinas history, and the dresses and personal adornments of this time also fu

19、lly represented this feature,The costumes of Yuan Dynasty has no fixed style, the main style is robe. There is little difference in robe between men and women,However, due to the Characteristic of nation, the garments in Yuan Dynasty are divided into Mongolian style and Han style,23,古柏文档,Yuan Dynast

20、y,蒙古族女子，时兴戴一种很有特色的“罟罟冠”，高约70100厘米，其顶端扩大成平顶帽形；外面以红绢、金锦或毛毡包裱,24,古柏文档,Yuan Dynasty,Zhisunfu:质孙服,上衣下裳，上紧下短，并在腰间加襞(b）积，肩背挂大珠,Zhisunfu was just formulated in 1321 during the reign of Yuan Emperor Yingzong by referring to ancient systems: upper and lower short garments were pieced together; folds were adde

21、d to the waistline, and big beads were hung on shoulders and the back. Emperors and officials in all ranks wore such garments, and the Han people called them as theYiseyi.（一色衣,25,古柏文档,Yuan Dynasty,26,古柏文档,Yuan Dynasty,元代蒙古族男子，戴一种用藤篾做的“瓦楞帽”，有方圆两种样式，顶中装饰有珠宝,27,古柏文档,Qing Dynasty,28,古柏文档,Qing Dynasty,Du

22、ring the Qing Dynasty, clothes were elegant and poised(雍容华贵的). People at that time wore clothes befitting their social status, official ranks(社会地位) and lifestyle according to the regulations of the Qing government,29,古柏文档,The ornamentation of formal (chaofu) and semi-formal (jifu) court robes includ

23、ed the dragon motif together with a decorative representation of the Chinese conception of the cosmos. The dragon symbolised the emperor, known as the Son of Heaven, and permission to wear the robe was given by him,30,古柏文档,31,古柏文档,Those who passed the civil service examinations and attained the stat

24、us of a government official were also granted the privilege of wearing court robes. Rank was further distinguished by a hierarchy of colour and ornamentation,32,古柏文档,The cheongsam is an eminently feature of Qizhuang costume, which still has certain impacts on modern costume. Especially ,along with t

25、he development of China ,a cheongsam that demonstrates womens curvaceous beauty has become the representative garment of the Han people, as it can show the femininity and temperament of oriental ladies,33,古柏文档,Main Characteristics,shirt is not exposed (衫不露外,the right-side lapel of junction decorated

26、 with buttons (偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰,clothing plus clothing (衣外加衣,increase waistcoat or jacket (增加坎肩或马褂,34,古柏文档,Main Characteristics,clothes do not get the waist down (衣服上下不取腰身,Rectangular outline (外轮廓呈长方形,Horseshoe-shaped sleeve cover hand (马蹄袖盖手,set rolling craft decoration (镶滚工艺装饰,flowerpot shoes(花盆鞋,35,古柏文档

27、,36,古柏文档,37,古柏文档,The Chinese traditional costume Cheongsam,38,古柏文档,Contents,The definition of cheongsam The evolution of cheongsam The structure of cheongsam Representative figures,39,古柏文档,Definition,Qipao (Chi pao) is one of the most typical, traditional costumes for Chinese women. Also known as ch

28、eongsam , it is like a wonderful flower in the Chinese colorful fashion scene because of its particular charm,40,古柏文档,The evolution,41,古柏文档,The evolution,42,古柏文档,The evolution,43,古柏文档,Frog 盘扣,The structure,立领,襟,衩,Mandarin collar 立领,Lapel 襟,Openings 衩,embroidery,刺绣,44,古柏文档,The style,Sleeves: wide sle

29、eves, narrow and long sleeves, middle sleeves, short sleeves or sleeveless. Jin（襟）: round Jin, straight Jin, slanting Jin(斜襟), double Jin（双襟）, Pipa Jin（琵琶襟）, and so on. Collar(领): high collar, low collar，or collarless. Openings（开衩）: high openings, low openings, no opening,45,古柏文档,long sleeves,short

30、sleeves,sleeveless,46,古柏文档,High collar,Collarless,Low collar,47,古柏文档,Representative figures,张爱玲 Eileen Chang (1920-1995) A well-known writer，be addicted to cheongsam. Life is a colorful gown, covered with lice,48,古柏文档,She owns the most number of qipao all over the world,49,古柏文档,邓丽君,Where there are C

31、hinese there is her voice, she really made the beauty of the cheongsam, cheongsam accomplished her legend,50,古柏文档,In the film In the Mood for Love（似水年华） ，Maggie Cheung （张曼玉）change more than 23 sets of qipao, after the movie release. It set off a rush of “cheongsam hot,Cheongsam reflects the elegant

32、charm of oriental women,51,古柏文档,52,古柏文档,玉脂白,Expo (展览会)2010 Shanghai China,53,古柏文档,Cheongsam for Miss Manners,青花瓷,宝蓝,54,古柏文档,Thank you,55,古柏文档,现代民族服饰,现在，民族服饰是指各民族本身文化中独有特色的服饰，也可以称为地方服饰或民俗服饰。由于我国民族众多，我今天重点介绍一下苗族服饰和白族服饰。苗族服饰是我国所有民族服饰中最为华丽的服饰，既是中华文化中的一朵奇葩，也是历史文化的瑰宝,56,古柏文档,Modern Ethnic Clothing,National dress is the unique culture of the nations own unique costumes, can also be called local dress or folk costumes. Because of the many ethnic groups in our country, I will focus on the Miao costume and