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服装设计创意外文翻译文献服装设计创意外文翻译文献(文档含中英文对照即英文原文和中文翻译)译文:服装设计中的创意性灵感摘要研究目的:本文的研究目的就是评估服装设计过程中的创造性灵感源。它旨在分析服装设计行为和服装设计过程的早期阶段,设计灵感的本质是什么,如何收集灵感来源以及它们是如何影响服装设计的创造力和原创性的。研究方法:目前,已经有很多的学者对成衣服装设计进行了而一系列的实证研究;实地观察、半结构化访谈和约束和半驱动型设计任务。这一实证研究方法,可以有效的使用在传统的知识获取方法不足的情况下,特别需要对一个行业进行一个广泛地了解,比如:时尚界,不只是要对单个人或公司进行实证研究,要尽可能选择更多的案例进行研究。研究结果:识别服装设计过程中的灵感来源的主要类型,并提供每来源的相关信息。认识到这些灵感来源可以帮助设计师来创建有创意的设计元素。为了培养创意,灵感的来源在整个创意阶段的设计过程中,以及在服装设计研究计划的早期阶段发挥了重要的作用。创新性:本文突出强调了创造力和创意灵感来源在服装设计过程中的作用。对服装设计师和服装公司都提供了很多实际的帮助。关键词:服装设计;服装;创造性思维;设计安排;设计管理服装设计是一个包含视觉和触觉的感官设计众所周知,设计包括两件事情:工艺创造过程和产品展示,这两者之间的关系就好比动词和名词的关系。作为一个设计问题解决方案的过程,它是灵感的来源,并通过计划、组织以实现一个最终目标。而产品是其计划的、最终设计的结果。服装就是应用设计的一个例子,即使是最激动人心的、最初的构想也必须向人们展示其实用目的。虽然我们已经意识到一些艺术是纯粹的,即“艺术至上艺术”,但是,世界上大多数艺术作品设计的最初目的都在于其实用性。设计作为一个工艺过程,应当考虑和计划实现某一特定的目标,并适时进行创新。从本质上讲,设计过程的步骤与顺序同样应当考虑产品的实用性。这些步骤与管理规划的过程非常相似。人为设计的产品和服务可以分为两大部类:感觉和行为。感官设计是通过感官而获得的,可以将其分为视觉、听觉、嗅觉、触觉和味觉的获得。行为设计是有计划的行动。然而,许多产品的创作过程都包括感官设计与行为设计两个方面,因为设计灵感需要通过感官获得并通过行为来解释。例如,一场时装表演既包括感觉设计也包括行为设计。服装设计的灵感来源服装设计师从哪里获得新款式设计的构想和灵感呢?答案即灵感无处不在。实际上,任何视觉和触觉上的感官体验都可以是服装设计灵感的源泉。通过电视,设计师可以体验五彩缤纷的全球娱乐世界。在看电影的过程中,设计师则能感受世界各地的艺术与生活方式。通过国际经销,电影观众可以通过有设计灵感的服装接受新时尚。博物馆展品、艺术节目展示、世界事件、博览会、剧院、音乐、舞蹈和旅游都是时装设计师的设计灵感来源。过去的时尚也是他们一个丰富的设计灵感来源。虽然,对于新的和刺激人心的事物,服装设计师们需要时时保持警惕,但他们从来不会忘记过去,通常情况下,他们会采用新的方式去利用旧的东西。如上所述,一组服装设计的灵感来源多种多样。灵感来源往往与社会“时代精神”(也称之为“时代思潮”)息息相关。在对当前时尚了解的前提下,不断寻找各种创意和灵感源泉,例如博览艺术品和书籍,去巴黎和米兰旅行并进行考察,参观博物馆,或行走于各国观察不同的人群等。我们发现,当直接接触创意来源时,设计师们是最具创造力的。另一方面,在时尚界,服装设计的创意过程包括两种基本方法:(1)实物能激发服装设计的创作过程;(2)概念化的服装设计过程,如源于宇宙的艺术、大自然或产品。众所周知,高调时尚的“名誉”设计师提出了这样一个概念模型,为了使其更具有创造力和原创性,我们可以称之为主旋律。强调以设计为先导的产业,其设计思想的来源包括先前设计的产品、人工产品、自然物品与自然现象。就服装设计来看,之前的设计风格、面料和其他配件在设计师的灵感来源中发挥着十分重要的作用。尽管人们已经广泛认可,大部分的设计过程都是在修改先前创意理念的基础上完成的,深受编织物的启发,服装设计师们便开始寻找设计的新款式和风格。在这种情况下一个样式通常为起点的技术材料的可能性。例如,弹力纤维面料的发展激发了设计师们设计紧身服装的灵感。文献出处:Mete,Fatma."Thecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinclothingdesign."InternationalJournalofClothingScienceandTechnology18.4(2006):278-293.原文:ThecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinclothingdesignFatmaMeteAbstract:Purpose-Toassessthecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinvisualclothingdesign.Itaimstoanalysesimple,generalaccountsofobserveddesignbehaviourandearlystagesoftheclothingdesignprocess,whatisthenatureofdesigninspiration,howsourcesofinspirationaregatheredandhowtheyaffectthecreativityandoriginalityinclothingdesign.Design/methodology/approach-Aprogressiveseriesofempiricalstudieslookingatready-to-wearclothingdesignhasbeenundertaken;insituobservation,semi-structuredinterviewsandconstrainedandsemi-constraineddesigntasks.Thisempiricalapproachusedethnographicobservationalmethods,whichiseffectiveinsituationswhereconventionalknowledgeacquisitionmethodsareinsufficient,whenbroadunderstandingofanindustryisneeded,asinthefashionindustry,notjustacasestudyofasingleindividualorcompany.Findings-Identifiesthemajortypesofideasourcesinclothingdesignandprovidesinformationabouteachsource.Recognisesthatthesesourcesofinspirationhelpdesignerstocreatedesignelementsandprinciplesofindividualdesigns.Inordertofosteroriginality,sourcesofinspirationplayapowerfulrolethroughoutthecreativestageofdesignprocess,andalsointheearlystagesoffashionresearchandstrategiccollectionplanning.Originality/value-Thispaperhighlightstheroleofsourcesofinspirationanditseffectincreativityandoriginalityintheclothingdesignprocess.Offerspracticalhelptoclothingdesignersanddesign-ledclothingcompanies.Keywords:Fashiondesign,Clothing,Creativethinking,Designcalculations,DesignmanagementIntroductionSourcesofinspirationanditspersonalinterpretation,visuallyandtechnically,playanimportantroleinthedesignprocess,inincreasingcreativity.Clothingdesignstudiesandthecreativeroleofdesigninspiration,duringtheearlyinformalandactualclothingdesignprocessesisopentoscientificinvestigationlikeaestheticallydrivendesignsinotherdomains.Studyingcreativefashiondesignasprocessandproductisseenmoreproblematicthanotherdesign-ledindustries,astheinteractionbetweenthedesignelementsandprinciples,materialproperties,adaptationandmodificationofdesigninspirationarecomplex.Clothingdesign,asavarietyofaestheticandfunctionaldesignprocesses,sharesmanycharacteristicsofengineeringdesignprocess.Researchandobservationarecriticallyimportantinthefashionbusiness.Byresearchingandobserving,designersgatherbackgroundinformationfordesign,includingstudyingcurrentandfuturefashiontrendsandtrytopredictwhatthemajorityoftheircustomerswillwantintheforeseeablefuture.Inordertokeepupwiththechangingworldoffashion,fashionawarenessshouldbecomesecondnaturetoeveryclothingdesigner.DesignandclothingasavisualandtactilesensorydesignItiswellknownthatdesignistwothings:processandproduct,asverbandnoun.Asdesignproblemsolutionprocess,itisresearching,settingthesourceofinspiration,planning,organizingtomeetagoal,carryingoutaccordingtoaparticularpurposeandcreating.Asproductitistheendresult,anintendedarrangementthatistheoutcomeofthatprocessorplan.Clothingisanexampleofapplieddesign,eventhemostexciting,originalideamustshowawarenessofitspracticalpurposeandenvironment.Werealisethatsomeartispure,"artforart'ssake"butmostcreationsinthedailyworldareforapracticalpurposeanduse.Designasprocessisplanningtomeetagoal,andthusappliestoeverythingintentionallycreatedforapurpose.Thestepsandorderoftheprocessareessentiallythesameregardlessoftheendproduct.Thesestepsareverysimilartomanagementasaplanningprocess.Designasmanmadeproductandservicefallsintotwomajorcategories:sensoryandbehavioural.Sensorydesignisperceivedthroughthesenses,andisclassifiedasvisual,auditory,olfactory,tactileandgustatory.Behaviouraldesignisplannedaction.Manyproducts,however,includeaspectsofboth,becausedesignmaybeperceivedthroughthesensesandtheninterpretedbehaviourally.Afashionshow,forexample,includebothsensoryandbehaviouraldesigns.ResearchmethodologyandfindingsTheimportanceofsourceofinspirationandtheirroleincreativeclothingdesignhasbeenlittleunderstoodand,therefore,rarelyreceivedattentioninthisindustry.[6],[7],[8]EckertandStacey(1998,2000,2003)studiedknitweardesigncase,whichsharesmanycharacteristicsofcomplexengineeringprojectsandasanexampleof"practicaldesign"inafastmovingandhighlycompetitivemanufacturingindustry.Theirworkincludedalargeethnographicstudyoftheknitwearindustry,whichproducedadetaileddesignprocessmodelandananalysisofthecausesofcommunicationproblemswithindesignteams.[15]Mäkirinne-Croftetal.(1996)triedtoexplainthefashiondesignprocessintermsofquantummechanicsandpsychoanalysisandseedesigncreativityastheultimatemystery;theirdescriptionofthedesignprocessissimplistic.Theauthorhasundertakenaprogressiveseriesofempiricalstudies,basedonobservationandinterviews,lookingatready-to-wear(RTW)clothingdesign;insituobservation,semi-structuredinterviewsandconstrainedandsemi-constraineddesigntasks.Thisempiricapproachcombinesethnographicobservationalmethodswiththeknowledgeanalysistechniquesofartificialintelligence.Itiseffectiveinsituationswhereconventionalknowledgeacquisitionmethodsareinsufficient,whenbroadunderstandingofanindustryisneededasinthefashionindustry,notjustacasestudyofasingleindividualorcompany.Inthisresearch,thecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinvisualclothingdesignbynoviceandexpertclothingdesignerswasassessedthroughempiricalresearch.Assubjects,16talentedclothingdesigners,11university-levelfashiondesignstudentsinFashionDesignDepartmentatDokuzEylulUniversityandfiveprofessionaldesignersparticipatedintheexperimentcarriedoutinthisresearch.Thefirstgroupofsubjectsincludedadvancedfashiondesignstudents,seventalentedstudentsselectedfromthethirdandfourthyearofundergraduatestudies,andalsofourstudentsofpostgraduatestudies,whoalsoworksasafreelanceorparttimeassistantdesignersintheclothingindustry.Thesecondgroupwascomposedoffiveprofessionaldesignerswithaminimumof5yearsofexperienceinclothingindustry.SourcesofinspirationinclothingdesignWheredoesthefashiondesignergetideasandinspirationfornewstyles?Theansweriseverywhereandeverything.Anythingvisualandtactile,infactsensual,canbeasourceofinspirationforagarment.Throughtelevision,thedesignerexperiencesallthewondersoftheentertainmentworld.Infilms,thedesignerisexposedtotheinfluencesofallthearts,andlifestylesthroughouttheworld.Becauseconsumersareexposedtomoviesthroughinternationaldistribution,filmsprimetheiraudiencestoacceptnewfashionsinspiredbythecostumes.Museumexhibits,artshows,worldhappenings,expositions,theatres,music,danceandworldtravelareallsourcesofdesigninspirationtofashiondesigners.Thefashionsofthepastarealsoarichsourceofdesigninspiration.Whilealwaysalerttothenewandexciting,fashiondesignersneverlosesightofthepast,theyuseoldthingsinnewways.Asstatedtheinspirationforagarmentwithinacollectionorforanentirecollectioncancomefromaninfinitevarietyofsources.Sourcesofinspirationareoftenlinkedtothesocial"spiritofthetimes"alsocalledthe"zeitgeist".Understandingthestateofcurrentfashionandsearchingforideasandsourcesofinspirationinvolveslookingatartobjectsandbooks,goingontripstoplaceslikeParisandMilan,visitingmuseums,watchingpeopleonstreetsandgoingoncountrywalks.Designersaremostcreativewhentheyaredirectlyexposedtothesourcesofideas.Ontheotherhand,ithasbeenobservedinthefashionindustrythattherearetwofundamentalapproachesinthecreativeclothingdesignprocesses:(1)material,thusfabric,inspiredclothingdesignprocess;and(2)conceptualclothingdesignprocess,suchasseveralthemesoriginatedfromtheuniverseofarts,natureorproducts.Itisknownthatthehigh-fashion"name"designerstypicallydevelopaconcept,alsocalledtheme,fortheircollectioninordertobemorecreativeandoriginal.Themajortypesofideasourcesindesign-ledindustriesarepreviousproducts,artifacts,naturalobjectsandphenomena.Incaseofclothingdesign,garments,fabricsandtrimsaspreviousproducts,playanimportantroleinsourcesofinspiration.Although,thereisabroadrecognitionthatmuchofthedesignproceedsbymodificationofpreviousideas,incaseoffabricinspiredclothingdesign,designerssearchfornewformsandstyleswithnewlydevelopedorinventedmaterials.Forexample,thedevelopmentofelasthenfabrics,suchasLycra,inspireddesignerstofigure-huggingsilhouettes.ConclusionsAnythingvisualandtactile,infactsensual,canbeasourceofinspirationinfashiondesign.Designideasdonotsimplymaterializeoutofthinair.First,thedesignerdoescarefulresearch,butwhatmakesadesigner'scollectionspecialandoriginalishisorheruniqueinterpretationofdesignsources.Therefore,inordertobemorecreativeandoriginalthesourcesofinspirationplayanimportantroleinclothingd

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