这就是那台机器

00:26Seethisisthemachine看,這就是那台機器IfItalktoyou如果我跟你說話的話Yeah嗯Themachinestoresitallupinsideandthenitgivesitbacktoyou.Doyousee?這個機器會把我說的話存起來然回覆給你 ,你懂了嗎?Wouldyoulikeamachinelikethatwhenyou’reabiggirl?你長大之後想不想要一台這樣的機器呀 ?Yeah要Whatwouldyoudowithit?那你想要把他用在什麼地方 ?Iwouldtry我要Doyouwanttosingasong?你要唱首歌嗎?Nothankyou不要,謝謝Wanttotellastoryorsomething?你要講個故事或者什麼嗎 ?Nothankyou不要,謝謝Whatwillwesaytothemachine?你想對這個機器說些什麼呢 ?MA-chine機-器WhatwillwesaytotheMA-chine?你想對這個機-器說些什麼呢?Hmm?嗯?Doyouknowanysongs,LikeSingaSongofSixpence?你知道什麼歌嗎?比如六角樂團的歌?Yeah知道WillyouSingaSongofSixpencewithme?那你要不要和我一起唱六角樂團的歌 ?Singittogether?一起唱?Hmm?嗯?Wouldyoulikethat?要不要?Nothankyou不要,謝謝OK.好吧DoyouwanttosingasongwithDaddy?你要不要和爸爸一起唱歌 ?Nothankyou不要,謝謝Isee.好吧Havetothinkofsomething.Can’tjustsithereandsaynothing.Wanttotellastoryorsomething?要說些什麼,不能只是坐著然後什麼也不說 .要不然說個故事好了?Yeah.好吧02:13AMapWithGaps地圖裂痕03:04In1972myfatherdrovetoRussiaandback.Andnotforanyparticularreasoneitherhejustfanciedit.Irememberthedayheleft,oratleastIthinkIdo,Iwasverysmallatthetime.ItoccurredtomerecentlythatImightbeconfusingitwiththedayofhisfuneral10yearslaterwhenmyfamilyformedasimilarlyorderlylineoutsideourhousetoseehimoff.Hewrotean accountofhisadventuresintheUSSR,handwritteninaseriesofkid ’sexercisebooks,rethelretoaresomereelaudiorecordingsandhundredsofphotographstakenonthetrip.Plentyofevidencethenbywhichtoplothiscourse,enoughtomakeamapofsorts.1972年的時候,我的父親一路開往俄國然後再開回來。也沒有什麼特別的理由,他只是一直想這樣做。我記得他離開的那天,我想我應該記得,我那時候年紀還很小。最近我才想到我可能把他離開的時間和十年後他的喪禮的時間搞混了 ,因為我家人都一樣在家門外為他送行。他自己還為這趟旅程在 USSR上發表了文章,一系列童書練習本的手寫稿,,一捲又一捲的錄音帶和數以百張關於那趟旅程的照片。足夠的資料讓他去撰寫他的歷險,甚至充分到可以製作一張運動地圖。03:52Notebooknumber1第一卷HowandWhyCinderellabecameSupervan:辛度瑞拉為什麼及如何變成超級休旅車ItalwaystakestwiceaslongasexpectedandsomethingwilldropoffanywayRussiabyroad,nowthatappealedtome,hadtobemoreinterestingthanapackagetourespeciallyatripfromfarnorthtofarsouth,sayfromFinlandthroughTurkeyandtakinginmostofthecommunistcountriesalongtheway.FactisIwasfourweeksawayfromthelastsailingoftheyearoftheRussianship,theKrupskaya,fromTilburyinEnglandtoHelsinki. ,,, ,04:26It’salongwaytoTipperaryIt’salongwaytogoIt’salongwaytoTipperaryTothesweetestgirlIknow,04:56Ihadaco-driversignedup,MrPaddyMcClintock,ourvisaswereallsortedevenhadsomesponsorshiporganisedfromDuckhamsandDunlop.Asetofradiotyres,verynice,what’smoreIhadascheduledrawnup.12,000milesand14countriesin26days,hopefully.Butnocar.,,,..,,,2614,,05:22IreflectedonmypredicamentasIleanedonmygarage ’s12yearoldFordAngvan.Ithadalreadybeentwicearoundtheclock.Ihadboughtitforthehandsomepriceof15quidandbynowitwassofullofrattlesthatnoonebodyatthegaragewaswillingtobeseendrivingher.Sure,wouldn ’titbeallthemorechallengingifyoumadethevehiclesmall,notnewandprettystandard, throwinprettyclappedoutforgoodmeasure.Whynot?,15..,,,,,,?05:51Shewasstillsoundbody-wiseandthat ‘sthemainthing.Shewasndidn’tneedspeedonlyendurance.Preparinghertookeveryavailableminute,afewallnightsessions.Justwhatwedidandhowwouldn baffleanyonewho’cantchangeawheelbutmightwellborethosetowhomoilonthehandsjustmeansdirt.SoI ’vesetitdownseparatelyappeinandix.Thosetowhomanoilyhandsignifiesakindredspiritshouldnowperhapsturntosaid appendixwheretheywillfindastoryofblood,sweatandtears.

’tfastbutwe她大致上來說性能還不錯

,所以這也是我們選她的原因。她跑的一點也不快

,但是我們需要的不是速度而是耐力。我們幾乎每分鐘和好幾個晚上都在花時間裝備她。06:27Ioverhauledtheenginecompletelykeepingtheoriginalgearboxandgoingovertherestofthemechanicalswithafine-toothedcomb.Brakeswereoverhauled,theenginesecuredupwhereitwassafeandthesteeringwasdoneup.IbuiltashieldorafalsebottomfromfibreglasstoprotectSupervan’sdelicateunderbellyfromprotrudingRussianmanholecovers.Ontheoutsideseveralshadesofbluegavewaytosmartyellowandwhite,perhapsIcanbeforgivenforthinkingbytheendthatshewasthemostbeautifulvehicleontheroad.07:03Nextcameacomprehensivelistofspares,chosenonthebasisofsize,andweightandgeneralindispensability.ForexamplethefactthatanylonstockingcanmakedoasafanbeltisoflittleuseintheSovietUnionwherenylonsareevenmorescarcethanFordfanbelts.07:33WehadalreadysetsailforHelsinkibeforeIrealisedIhadleftallourmapsbehind.Yep,ifIrememberrightly,I eftthemonthe’dkitchenltableathome.TwoofthebarmenonboardYefgeniandBalerihadattemptedtoteachmesomeRussian.Inowhadawhopping26usefulRussianphrasesatmydisposal.We’dhaddrinkswiththecaptaininhiscabin,beenshownthebridge,doneadealwiththechiefengineeralongthelinesof “youshowusyourenginewe

’llshowours”,hadchallengedthecrewtoadrinkingcompetitionandpromptlypassedoutbeforeitevenbegan.我們已經向啟航了,但是我忘了帶地圖。對的,如果我記得夠清楚的話,我應該是把它遺忘在家裡廚房的餐桌上了。和這兩個邊界的酒保試著教我一些俄文。我大概已經學會了二十六個有用的單詞片語,我們和船長在他的房間喝了幾杯酒,高談闊論之後,和一些引擎工程師們達成了較勁的協議,他們展現他們的,我們展現我們的,和整個船上的人比較酒量,當然在遊戲開始之前大家都醉倒了。08:10TheshipwouldnowcrosstheGulfofFinlandtoLeningrad,herhomeport,whilewewouldtakelongwayround.Anotherchallengewasissuedwhichwedulyaccepted:aracetoLeningrad... ...., , ,.08:30exploit1 n.boldordaringfeat.2v.t.useordevelopforone ’sownends;takeadvantageof.3exploitation n.explorev.t.examine(countryetc.)bygoingthroughit;inquireinto;examinebytouch.explorationn.;exploratorya.08:45Directions09:16ComradeSupervan:RussiaWithoutTears:09:22JustshortoftheRussianborderwithFinlandwehadourfirsthitch,Supervankonkedout.Somekindoffuelblockageorother.Ihoppedoutwiththetoolkitandalmostimmediatelystartedtoshakewiththecold.Wedecidedtowaitforthemorningandsettleddowntoaprettymiserablycoldnight,nothelpedbythesoundofintermittentgunfirecomingfromthewoodsaroundus.FinallywewereovertheborderandintotheUSSR.TheguardshadgoneoverusandSupervanwithafine-toothedcombattheborderbutwithsuchkindness,includingacupofteaandabasinofhotwatertowashin,wewerehappytooblige.Weheadedoff,firsteastlaterturningsouth.,,.,,,,,USSR,,,10:35OncestoppedforlunchInoticedagroupofchildrenstandingwatchingus.Soonwehadaquestionandanswerroutinegoing,mainlyaboutSupervanbutalsoaboutusandwherewewerefrom.IwaswellintoaguidedtourofSupervan,explainingwhatalltheinstrumentationdid,Paddytakingpicturesaswewentthenamanwearinganarmbandwalkedupandorderedthechildrenawayfromusandtoldmeinnouncertainmannertogetonmyway.DespitemylackofRussianthegistofhisproblemseemedtobeoursupposedattempttocorruptgoodRussianchildrenwithourWesternbourgeoisways,maybethecamerawaswhatdidit.Idon ’tknow,butitputmeoutofsortsforhours.,,,,,,,,,11:27NotebookNumber211:30Leningradwasgreat,notonlyabeautifulcitybutafriendlyonetoo.Afteradayexploringthecitywedecidedwe ’dbettergetbackontheroadtoMoscowsooffwewent.It’salongwayfromLeningradtoMoscow,along,way.Atonestagewetravelledoveravastplateau,theValdai.Weweretravellingalongoveritwhenwesawafourfoothighcupofteaonasignbytheroadwith1kilometerwrittenunderit.Weagreedthatacupofteawouldbeagoodthingandpresentlycametoasimilarsignwithanarrowpointingtoourleft..,,,,,.12:15Iapproachedthecounterwheretheyoungbartendingladysmiledbroadlyatmetorevealwhatappearedtobestainlesssteelteeth.Iuseduptwoofmy26usefulRussianphrasesaskingforacupofteaofcoffee.Sheshookherheadatme,“Nyet”.FinallysheplonkeddownabottleinfrontofmeofwhatseemedtobeRussianchampagne,notwhatIwasaimingforreally,butwhatthehell.,,,””,,12:52IremovedthewirefromthecorkstillstandingandhereiswhereIbegintoappreciatethesuperbubblynatureofSovietchampagne.Thecorkgotmerightunderthenose,onitsupwardstrajectoryoutofthebottle,anexquisitelypainfulexperience.TheRussiansaroundussawthehumourinit,blessthem,andthroughmytearsIcouldseethemapplaudingfuriously.AlargeRussianlorrydriverwenttothebarandarrivedoverwithanotherbottleofthesame,presumablyhopingforanencore.,, ,, lorry,13:25Weacceptedgraciously,itwasratherdeliciousasitturnedoutanditdidhelptoeasethepain.WesleptinSupervanthatnight,verysoundly.ThenextdayIwentbackandboughtanotherdozenbottlesofthestuffandloadedthemintothebackofSupervan.14:21WaltzinginMoscowWepressedontoMoscowarrivingatduskintoheavytrafficmovingatextraordinaryspeedsthroughthebroadstreets,Moscowpolicemenseemedtohaveoneaiminlifeandthat’stokeepthetrafficmoving,notstopit.Westernpolice,pleasenote.WehadnotmanagedtogetholdofanymapofMoscow,asfarasIknowtheyarecompletelyunobtainable.Thecityisbuiltonamarvelloussystemofradioroadsandringroads,ifonlyyouhadamap.14:57Andofcourseyoucan’treadthestreetsigns,writeNevsyProspektonapieceofpaperandholditupsidedowninfrontofamirrorandyou’llsoongetanideaofwhatyou’reupagainst.15:11NotebookNumber3Atlastwegotintothecitycentreandfoundalittlehotel,thethirdwetoolatefordinner.Ourporter,aratherangrylittleman,mutteredatusunderhis

’dtribreaththedistancefromthefoyertothelift.Inwegetandafewfloorsuptheliftcomestoashudderinghalt.We’retrappedbetweenfloors,theporterusedthephoneinthelifttosummonhelpandhisrespondenthunguponhim.Thishedidnotlikeandtoourgreatjoyhestartedtoshoutintoalternateendsofthephonehandpiece.Eventually,wewererescuedbyaveryprettyblondeladywhoopenedthedoorwithacrowbar,nobotheratall,andthenhelpeduscrawlout.15:58Afterwecleanedupalittlewewandereddowntothehotelbarwheredespiteconsiderableevasiveactionweplacedatthesametableasthreelocalladies.VariousinterpretationsofthemusicweregoingonincludingonecouplewhohadseenfartoomuchComeDancingaltogether.Oneoftheladiesatourtableindicatedtomeherwishtodance.Shewassometwofeetshorterthanmebutdeterminedtodancecheektocheek.Imadeaconsiderableefforttokeephernoseoutofmynaveltolittleavail.16:35OfcoursePaddywasbynowinconvulsionsatthetableatmypredicament.Meanwhile,anotheroftheladiesindicatedshetoowouldlikeago.Paddy,stillsplittinghissides,declined.Awomanscorned,shestoodupandgavePaddythemotherandfatherofakickontheshins,whichcheeredmeupnoend.Andonwedanced.17:05Well,Idon ’tthinkyourvoiceisnecessarilylikethat,no.WellIalwaysthoughtIspokequiteYourecogniseanotherperson ’svoicebutit ’snotexactlyasinnormal17:26IknowandifIgo “bringbring ”17:40Hello,hello,hello17:45Dad,wakeup,wakeywakey17:54Beveryquiet,canyouhearme?Youtalkinthatendandyouhearinthatend,canyouhearme?18:07ofsomething can’tjustsithereandsaynothing18:09Whatareyougoingtosaytohim?Didyouhaveaniceday?Whatdidyouhaveforlunch?18:22AWeddinginKievandAFondFarewellWelingeredawhileinMoscow,sawthesightsbutwereawarethatwewereindangeroffallingbehindwithourschedule.WesetofftoKievviatheUrals.WeeventuallymadeitoutofMoscowafterafewinvoluntarylapsoftheringroads.18:47After80milesorsowewerestoppedatamilitarycheckpoint,anNCOandhalfadozencomradesallcameouttolookatSupervan,apparentlywewerethemostexcitingthingthathadcometheirwayinaweek,problemwaswehadnocommonlanguagesocommunicationwasalittlelimited,butitwascleartherewasaproblem.19:07Iofferedthemsomebiscuits,whichtheyacceptedanditdidseemtolightenthemoodalittle.Eventually,aftermuchgesticulatingandsignlanguageitbecameclearthat1:theroadwewereondidindeedleadtoKiev,2:itwasnottheroadonourtouristapprovedmap,3:becausefortouriststhisroaddidnotexistand4:whilsttheyappreciatethebiscuitstheywouldratherwereturnedtoMoscowandtryitagain.19:41Offwewent.About5milesdowntheroadweturnedoffandcutacrossbyaseriesoffarmtracksinordertofindtherightroad.MyGod,I’dneverencounteredanythinglikethesurfaceofsomeoftheseroads,nevermindthefarmtracks.Wefoundourselvesonaroadthatwasunsurfacedforsome300mileswithcorrugationsfromthepassageofsheep.Indeed,wehadmetquiteafewsheepalongtheway,theireyesglowinglikefirefliesinthedarklongbeforeourheadlightspickedthemout.20:18TheonlywayIfoundtodriveoncorrugationswithoutlosingtheveryfillingsoutofyourteethistoestablishthespeedatwhichyourvehiclewillstarttofloatinsteadoffallingintoeachone.Thelatterisunbearable,notfortheoccupantswhowillrecoverbutforthevehiclewhichwillnot.SoatSupervan’sfloatingspeedof70milesperhour,wewatchedwithinterestasthedoorhandlesandwindowwipersunscrewedthemselvesanddroppedtothefloor,soofteninfactthateventuallywejustletthemliethere.20:49Suddenly,somethingwhizzedpassedPaddy ’searandhitthewindscreenfollowedbyajetofliquid.Heleanedintothebackandpulledoutabottleofchampagnewhichhadpoppeditscork.Hegrinnedhadhadaswig.Amomentlaterdriverandpassengerwerebombardedbyasuccessionofprojectilecorksfromthebackseatricochetingofftheroofandthewindows,wefendedthemoffasbestwecould.That,Ithink,iswhenIdroveintoahedge.21:22NotebookNumber4Inthelateeveningwecametoasmalltown,notfarfromKievwherewestoppedatabarforalookaround.Supervanwassurroundedassoonaswestopped.Wewereengagedinconversationonallsidesandpattedonthebackrepeatedly.Weaskediftherewasanywhereintownwherewegotocouldhearalittlemusic.Ohyes,therewasaweddingpartydownthetown.Weheadedoffandsureenoughwefoundarestaurantwithaweddinginfullswing.21:52Themajorityofpeoplethereinnationaldress,verycolourfulindeedandtheywerealldancingaway19tothedozen.Thebandwasnearthedoorandspotteduswatchingfromthestreet.Theybroughtusinsideandweweresoonintroducedtothehost,thebride ’sfather.Now,thelocaltraditionseemedtobetoapproachyouwithasmallsaucerwithtwogla