参考教案成果japan-10northern honshu

NORTHERNNORTHERNHONSHMay’sgentleshowers, etherushingMogamiNorthernHonshūremainslesstravelledthanmuchoftherestofHonshū–ashame,sinceitsruggedmountains,deepvalleys,rushingriversandfriendlypeoplemakeitrichandrewardingfortravellers.Numerousdormantvolcanoesmakefornumeroushotsprings,anditscleanwaterandhigh-qualityricehavemadetheareasynonymouswithsake.SomeofJapan’smostcuriouscustomsandoddesttraditionsarealiveandwellhere,asisprideinthearea’sfascinatingfeudalpast.Travellerswhotakethetimetostepofftheshinkansentrailintothelesstravelledareaswillfindjaw-dropbeauty,incrediblykindpeopleandwell-p examplesofthelifeofoldendays.AnyonefamiliarwiththeorderedneonchaosofTokyowillfindNorthernHonshūarefreshingandrevitalisingchange.Paradoxically,thankstotheshinkansenandexcellentlocaltrains,thisremoteregionisremarkablyaccessible,withmanyoftheprimeskiing,rafting,boating,onsenorhikingopportunitiesonlyafewhoursawayfromTokyo.TheareaiscomprisedofFukushima-ken,Miyagi-ken,Iwate-ken,Aomori-ken,Akita-kenandYamagata-ken(collectivelyknownasTōhoku),aswellasNiigata-kenandtheislandSado-ga-shima.TōhokuwascalledMichinoku,meaning‘backroads’,andthatisolationhashelpedtokeepancienttraditionsaliveintheeraoftheinternetandHDTV(high-definitionevision).WhileEnglishisn’twidelyspokeninTōhoku(anditsnortherndialectisimpenetrableeventomanynativeJapanese),youwillmeethelpful,kindlocalswhooftenhappilygooutoftheirwaytoassistatravellerinneed.

OriginallyinhabitedbytheEzopeople,whoarebelievedtohavebeenrelatedtotheAinuofHokkaidō,Tōhokuwassettledduringthe7thto9thcenturies,whenJapanesefromthesouthspreadnorthward,searchingforarablenewland.Inthe11thcenturytheNorthernFujiwaraclanruledfromHiraizumi,asettlementre-putedtorivalKyotoforitsmajestyandopu-lence.Aizu-WakamatsuandMoriokawerealsoimportantfeudaltowns.DateMasamunerepresentsthecornerstonefishingvillageofSendai;theclanwouldgoontoruleforcloseto300years,areignthatusheredinTōhoku’sGoldenAge.Unfortunay,Tōhokuregained‘back-water’statuswhentheMeijiRestorationwipedoutclanrule.Itsubsequentlysufferedyearsofneglect,atrendthatwasreversedonlyafterWWIIandthesubsequentdrivefordevelopmentheavilybasedonindustrialgrowth.Iron,transport,steel,chemical,pulpandpetroleumwereamongthemajorindus-triesthatsproutedduringthistime.Thesedaystourismisamajorplayerintheregion’seconomichealth.Dependingonwhenyoucome,NorthernHonshūwilleitherbeverycomfortableorbone-chillinglycold.Summersaremildandconsiderablymorecomfortablethaninthesouth,producingmagnificentdisplaysofgreenery.Inwinter,Siberiancoldgripstheregionandtemperaturesplummet.Snow

NORTHERNHONSHlinksTokyowithMoriokainabout2½hours,andtravelsasfarasHachinohe.Fromthere,limitedexpressandlocaltrainsruntoAomoriandfurthernorthNORTHERNHONSHGettingMaybeit’stheinfluenceoftheninja-poet(seetheboxedtext,p502),butlocalsseemtochronicallyunderestimatewalkingtimes.more.Beespeciallycautiouswhenplanninghikes,especiallyiftheysayit’lltakemostofanafternoon(thatcouldmeanyoushouldplanforaweekormore).Unlessyoureallydodarknessgatheringbeforeyou’rehalfwaytoyourdestination.LocaltransportrevolvesaroundthreemajorJRrailwaylines.Twooftheserundowntheeastandwestcoastsandthethirdsnakesdownbetweentheminthecentre,closelyfol-connectionsintheregionhavebeenacceler-atedwiththeopeningoftheAkitashinkansenlinefromMoriokatoAkitaandtheexten-sionoftheYamagatashinkansenlinenorthtoShinjō.ExplorationofthemoreremotepartsofTōhokuisgenerallypossiblewithlocaltrainandbusconnections,butcarrentalisprefer-ableasthereislittletrafficandmostrentalsincludeGPSpositioning,makingnavigationabreeze.Roadsandconnectionscanbeseverelyaffectedbywinterweather,whichcanchangeonadime.ThosewithoutJRPassesshouldconsiderinvestingintheJREastPass(p823),LearnaboutbloodyfeudalhistoryandthetragicWhiteTigersamuraisatAizu-Wakamatsu(p501)SoakyourworriesawayintheSukayulemony-tasting, onsenGokappa-huntingatTōno(p521),wheretheselittlegoblinsdwellSampleasmallbutremarkabletasteofformergloryattheChūson-ji(p518)RidethefamedDragondolaandteardownslopesonperfectpowderatNaebaGetawayfromthemainlandcrushonSado-ga-shima(p560),aformerislandofexilewitharich,

Aizu-

atleasthalfofthefunhere–makingforskiing,atmosphericyukimiburos(snowview-ter’swhiteserenitytothemountainranges.TheSeaofJapancoast–boundedbyAomori,Akita,YamagataandNiigataprefectures–enduresparticularlyheavysnowfall.Thisclearlydemarcatedclimateinfluencesthetex-tureofthelocalculture,mostnotablyintheensuresvariedculinaryharvests,likeoystersinwinterandmushroomsinautumn(fineseafoodisayear-roundfeature).

providesunlimitedtravelbyJRrailinTōhokuregionforfourflexibledays,orfiveorthisonecanbepurchasedafteryouarrive.Fukushima-ken,Japan’sthird-largestpre-fecture,isclosesttoTokyo,thoughitboastsfewersitesoftouristvaluethanitsnorthernneighbours.Atthesametime,itshouldn’tbeoverlooked.Onsenloverswillbetoknowthattheprefectureboastsoverquirkyhistory–andlotsof

GettingThere&Thebestwaytogettotheregionisviathe

hotsprings,andsakesipperscandelightinnumerouslocalvarieties.TheHamadoriarea,onthecoast,wasonceanimportantmining500FUKUSHIMA-KEN••Northern FUKUSHIMA-KEN••Aizu-WakamatsuNORTHERNHONSH0 NORTHERNNORTHERNHONSH0

NORTHERNHONSHNORTHERNNORTHERNHONSHToOtaru;

Osore-zan

TheNorthern eCardwasrecentlyintroducedasaspecialincentivefortouristsandstudentsresidinginJapan.Itprovidesdiscounts–usuallyaround10%–on modationandsightseeingthroughoutAkita,IwateandAomoriprefectures.

ofthelistingsinthischapterfallunderthescheme,althoughthelistofparticipantsisnotascomprehensiveasitshouldbe;manymajorsightsarenotyetincluded.Still,it’sfreeand

Mutsu-

atToobtainthecard,printitoutfromthewebsite( e)orpickupaformfromtouristofficesthroughouttheregion.Fillinyourdetailsandpresentcardwithyourpassport(orforeignstudentID)toobtainthediscount;thecardisvalidfor

Towada-

year.Lookoutforthered-and-white eCardstickeratparticipatingfacilitiesordownloadafulllistfromthewebsite.

SEAOJAPA

areaandisnowknownforitsseasideresorts(thetouristboardalsopromotestheoutputofHamadori’snuclearpowerplants

Oga

Tazawa-

hapsnotthebestmove,givenJapan’ssafetyrecord).Nakadori,theinlandregion,istheadministrativehub,containingthecapital,FukushimaCity,andmostofthepopulation.ofthefeudalwar.

usingtheEnglishone.Thefollowing,arrangedinaringaround

%0242/pop

会津若

inEnglish.It’spossibletodothelotonfootinaday,butatouristbusdoestheloopif

InthemiddleofFukushimaprefecture,quiet,friendlytownmakesarelaxedbaseforexploringtheBandaiAsahiNationalPark(p505),butitismostfamousforits

needit

OshikaIshinomaki-

periodpast.ItwasthecapitaloftheAizuclan,areignthatcametoanendintheBōshin

thefootofthemountain,theByakkotaiMemo-Sado-ga-

Warin1868,whenTsurugacastlefelltheclansidedwiththeTokugawa

NIIGATABandaiNIIGATANationalPark

againsttheimperialfaction.Areconstructedcastleandre-enactmentsofsamuraibattlesmakeAizuaninterestingstopasyou

an18th-centuryhexagonalhall,contains

northward,anditiscloseenoughthata

statuesofKannon(theBuddhistgoddess

mercy).Italsohasafabulousspiral

that,Escher-esque,allowsyoutowalkupdownwithoutretracingyour Inawashiro-ko

There’sfreeinternet(onehour)attheTsu-ruga-jōinformationdesk.

(485km)8

PACIFICOCEAN

perblyrealisedreconstructionofhisyashiki(villa).Wanderthroughthe38roomsthatincludeaguestroomfortheAizulord,a

GUNMA-

SEAOKASHIMA-NAD

hr¥300/480)Forinternetaccess.

andarice-cleaningmillpresentedhereinfull,noisyworkingorder.Don’tmissthesamurailavatory:underneathisasandboxon

movedsostaffcouldmonitorthehealth502FUKUSHIMA-KEN••Aizu-Wak FUKUSHIMA-KEN••Aizu-WakamatsuNORTHERNHONSHthewarriors.You’llalsofindtheroomwhereTanomo’swifeandchildrencommittedsui-NORTHERNHONSH

life.Displaysareabitsketchy,althoughthefrequentmartial-artsdemonstrations,carriedoutbyadeptsinfullwarriorregalia,are

BANDAIPLATEAU&

10 HONSHHONSHintheBōshinWar–althoughtheutterimpas-sivityofthewaxmodelsre-enactingthescenecomicallyundercutsthedrama.There’salso

ing.The5thstoreyaffordsaterrificviewofthesurroundingtownandvalley,Iimori-

Toll

targetrangewhereyoucantryyourhandatarcheryfor¥200.

Onthecastlegrounds,Rinkaku(茶室麟閣

Hibara-

Onogawa-ko

400-year-oldteahousethatwasrescued

15

(Toll

tativegardencomplexwithalarge,centralpond.OriginallyaholidayretreatfortheAizuclan,itfeaturesasectiondevotedtothe

returnedhereinFornonfeudalglimpsesintoAizu-

459

tionofmedicinalherbs(availableforpurchase)–apracticeencouragedbythelords.TheAizuclanmadeTsuruga-jō(鶴ヶ城h8.30am-5pm,lastentry4.30pm)theirheadquarters.Thepresentbuildingisa1965reconstruction,butpartsofthedauntingwallsremain,asdoesthecastle’smoat.Inside,there’samuseumwithhistoricalartefactsfrombattleanddaily

displaysrangingfromprehistorictimestorecenthistory.

2

Aizu-

Naga-

54Oyaku-63 MATSUOBASHŌ:POETORRegardedasJapan’smasterofhaiku,MatsuoBashō(1644–94)iscreditedwithelevatingitsstatusfromcomicrelieftoZen-infusedenlightenment.BashōwasbornintoasamuraifamilyandinhislateteenageyearsservedthefeudallordYoshitada.MovingtoKyotoandthentoEdo,Bashōfoundsuccessasapublishedpoet,butultimayfoundtheacclaimtobespirituallyunsettling.

Inawashiro-

HeturnedtoZenandthephilosophyhadadeepimpactonhiswork:manycomparisonshavebeenmadebetweenhishaikuandZenkōan(shortriddles),intendedtobringabouta

⋵‛㙚

⑔⑔⑔⑔⑔ 13flashofinsightinthelistener.Bashōwasalsoinfluencedbythenaturalphilosophyofthe

ዊේㅧ........7

⑔⑔⑔⑔⑔ TaoistsageChuangzi,andbegantoexaminenatureuncritically.Laterhedevelopedhisown

principlebydrawingontheconceptofsabi,akindofspare,lonely

Whenhereachedhis40s,Bashōdecidedtogivehiscareerawayinfavouroftravelling

SasayaRyokan╣ደᣏ Japan,seekingtobuildfriendshipsandcommunewithnatureashewent.Hepublished

ⵣ⑔⑔⑔⑔ 18accountsofhistravels,includingTheRecordsofaWeather-BeatenSkeletonandTheRecordsofTravel-WornSatchel,buthiscollectionTheNarrowRoadtotheDeepNorth,detailinghisthroughoutTōhokuin1689,isperhapsthemostfamous.LikemanyJapanese,Bashōhad

misgivings(‘Imayaswellbetravellingtotheendsoftheearth’,helamented),butthenorth’sspecialcharmseventuallyrenderedhimlostforwords,mostfamouslyonhisencounterwithMatsushimaBay–‘Matsushima,ah!Matsushima!Matsushima!’Bashōfamouslywrote(althoughrecentevidencesuggeststhatanecdotetobeapocryphal).SomepeoplehavetriedtoreadevenmoreintoBashō‘slifeandwork.Inrecenttimes,

3ળᵤ㈬ㅧᱧผ

ળᵤ⧯᧻⑔⑔⑔⑔⑔⑔⑔⑔.........10D2Mitsutaya 20 ળᵤߩ㉿⑔ 11 bizarretheoryhasspread.ItclaimsthatBashōwasactuallyaninjaspyfortheshōgunate,senttoTohokūtoreportonanyunrestthatmightbefermentingintheprovinces;accordingly,hishaikusaresupposedtobecodedmissives.There’snorealevidenceforthis,butsomeoftheargumentsareintriguing.TheconspiracytheoristspointoutthatBashōcovered2500kmonfootin150days(sometimes50kmaday)attheripeoldageof46;onlycertainninja,theysay,wereableto plishthis,usingmethodsofrunningandwalkingthatusedminuteamountsofenergy.Hewasalsoabletogainaccesstohigh-levelfeudalterritory,afeatapparentlyimpos-sibleforordinarypeople.Addingfueltotherumoursistheundeniablefactofthepoet’searlyemploymenthistory(manyninjawerealsosamurai),aswellasthenatureofhisbirthplace,intheIgaprovince–homeofthefamousIgaNinjaschool.

thehistoryofrice-winebrewinginthearea.AfairnumberofEnglishsignsandanEnglishpamphletmakeiteasytogetabasicsenseofthebrewingprocess.Life-sizedioramasandoldsakeadvertisementsaddtothecharm.Naturallyyoucansamplethefamoustippleforthepriceofadmission.Festivals&Aizu-Wakamatsuholdsfourmainfestivals,coordinatedaccordingtoseason.Themost

prominentisthethree-dayAizuAutumnFesti-val(会津秋祭り)on22to24September,anextravagantprocessionthatthreadsthroughthecitytoTsuruga-jō, paniedbyadrum-and-fifeband,achildren’sparadeandaneveninglanternparade.Thesacrificeofthe20WhiteTigers(p504)isdramatisedbylocalhigh-schoolboys.TheowneroftheAizu-no-satoYouthHosisalocalexpertandcanadvise,inEnglish,onhowtobestNORTHERNHONSH504FUKUSHIMA-KEN••Aizu-WakNORTHERNHONSH

FUKUSHIMA-KEN••KitakataTHEWHITEIn1868agroupof20teenagesamurai,knownastheByakkotai(WhiteTigers),lookeddownuponTsuruga-jō,sawitshroudedinsmoke,andconcludedthatimperialforceshadcapturedthecastle.Ratherthansurrender,theycommittedseppuku(ritualsuicidebydisembowelment).InrealityitwasthesurroundingareathatwasablazeanditwouldbeweeksbeforetheAizuclanwouldfall;oneladsurvivedanddevotedtherestofhislifetopassingonthestory.ThisstrangetalegreatlyticklesJapanesesensibilities,withits icblendofblindloyaltytemperedbyutterfutilityandaruthlessuniverse.Totheoutsider,there’sadarkside:MussoliniwassotakenwiththeByakkotaihedonatedagrandiosemonumenttocommemoratetheevent.Toppedbyaneagle,itsurveysthehorizonfromthetopofIimori-yama,surroundedbyByakkotaigravesandthesteadystreamofJapanesetouristsscanningthehorizontoseewhattheWhiteTigerscouldn’t:afullyintactcastle.

GettingThere&toKōriyama(¥7970,1½hours),thenchangetoanhourlykaisoku(rapid)trainontheJRBanetsu-saisenlineforAizu-WakamatsutrainsbetweenAizu-WakamatsuandNiigata(¥2210,2¾hours).ExpressbusestoNiigatarunfourtimesdaily(¥2000,1¾hours).TheAizuTownBus(まちなか周遊バスハイthesights.Enquireaboutbikerental(perday¥1500)atthetouristinfo

characterless,whileSasayaRyokan(笹屋旅館NORTHERNHONSH NORTHERNHONSH tion1kmnorthofthe)shop,witha70-yearhistoryandadevotedandlookfortheredfaçade.GettingThere&KitakataisarelativelyeasytripfromAizu-Wakamatsu,accessiblebytrainalongtheJRBanetsu-saisenline(¥320,15minutes).There’salsotheHiganjishionthespringequinox,theSummerFestivalduringthefirstSaturdayinAugustandwinter’sSainokami,heldon14January.%55-1020; fromAizu’scentre,althoughthepleasingruralsettingsweetensthedeal.It’sa20-minutewalkwestfromAizu-TakadastationalongtheTadamilinefromAizu-Wakamatsu(¥230,20minutes).Note:seventrainsrundaily,butonlyoneintheafternoon.Findoutyourtrain’sarrivaltimeinadvanceandgivethehosnotice–themanagerwillpickyouupfromthestation(healsoescortsgueststoahotspringat6pmdaily).Freebikerentalandbreakfast.6116; Thiscosyplace,withwell-keptJapanese-stylerooms,iseastoftheAizuBukeyashikibusstop.Fromthere,continuealongtheroad,turnleftatthepostofficeandit’sjustbehind,ontheleft.There’saslewofbusinesshosclusteredaroundornearthetrainstation,allataboutthesamelevelofcleanlinessandcomfort,withTVsandphonesintherooms.Ofthemanyoptions,trythese:It’snexttothestation,totherightasyouexit.ワシントンホテル%22-6111;201Byakko-

Wappameshiisalocaldishconsistingofedfishoverrice.It’spreparedinaroundcontainermadefromtreebark,whichawoodyfragrancetothewappameshifrom¥1420hlunch&dinnerAnatmos-pheric,split-levelrestaurantwherewappameshiisservedinsublime,subtlybalancedcombinations.Trythefinelyshreddedcrab(kani)orsalmon(sake)versions.Fromthemainpostoffice,facingsouth,turnleftontoNanokomachi-dōriatthefirstlightturnright(south);goleftatthesecondalleyway,andit’sontherightAsktheobligingstaffattheinformationdesktomarkupamapwiththeexactlocationYou’llknowyou’vearrivedwhenyouseethelargepenis(plasteredwithvariousbills)intheentranceway.No.;;formerbean-pastemill,datingfrom1869,thespecialityiseightvarietiesofdengaku;thesearebambooskewerswithdeep-friedtofuandvegetablessuchastarobastedinsweetmisopasteandbakedovercharcoal.Herring(nishin)isalsosuperb.Facingwestfromthemainpostoffice,walkdownNanokomachi-dōri,thentakethesecondleft;it’sjustneartheintersectionwithNanokomachi-dōri.NoEnglish,butapicture makesorderinglocalspecialitiesofAizuWakamatsu.

%0241/popAnoldKitakatasayingreflectsthistown’sviewtowardscommerce:‘Amanisnotamanunlesshehasbuiltatleastonekura[amud-walledstorehouse]’.Thesedays,thetown’s2600colouredkura–nowfunctioningasliv-ingquarters,sakebreweriesandworkshops–areaperennialtouristattraction,asareits120rāmen(soupnoodles)shops.Staffatthesmalltouristinformationkiosk(%24-2633;h8.30am-5.15pm),leftofthestationexit,hascopiesofasmallEnglish-languageSampletheexcellentlocalsakeatYamato-ofthestation.ph9am5pmstaffplaytotheyeaststoenhancefermentation.AalsoincludesaMozart-infusedtipple.Lastentryisat4.40pm.oldgroundswithwell-wornbutcomfortableJapanese-stylerooms,isworthleavingthecitycentrefor.ThehostisaByakkotaibuff,andagoodsourceofareaknowledgeaswell.Thehosis15minuteswalkfromShiokawastationontheJRBanetsu-saisenline.Fromthestationheadstraightuntilyouhitthefirstlight,thenturnleftandveerleftagainwhentheroadmergesintoRte121Crossthebridgesakeshop.TheKitakataHo(キタカタホテル%22-station,isastandardbusinessho,cleanbut

cyclerental(pertwohours/day¥500/1500)isavailableoutsideKitakatastation,whilestationforan80-minutetourofthemorein-terestingstorehouses.Newvelo-taxis(three-wheeledbicycleswithacoveredpassengerarea)arealsoafunwaytogetaround.%0241/popaonce-dormantvolcano,suddenlyerupted,spewingforthatremendousamountofdebristhat’ssaidtohaveloweredthemountain’sheightby600m,whiledestroyingdozensofvillagesOver400peoplediedTheaftershockcompleyrearrangedthelandscapecreatingtheplateauBandai-kōgenanddamminglocalriversthatthenformednumerouswaterbod-Yamagataprefecturalboundaries,andoffersstirringsceneryandslaropportunitiesforhikingandskiing.fromtheGoshiki-numaIriguchitrailheadh8.30am-5pm)totheleftoutsideJRInawashiroThemostpopularwalkfollowsa3.7kmnaturetrailaroundGoshiki-numa(五色沼),anareaofaround11lakesandpondsknownasFiveColoursLakes,aftermineraldepositsfromtheeruptionimpartedvarioushuestotheNORTHERNHONSH506MIYAGI-KEN••NORTHERNHONSH

MIYAGI-KENwaters–emeraldgreen,cobaltblueandsoon–thatchangewiththeweather.There

kenhasseveralattractions,includingOnsen,agreatspotforonsenenthusiasts,

0 20kmtrailheadsattheGoshiki-numaIriguchiandBandai-kōgenbusstops,themaintransporthubsontheedgeofHibara-ko.Bandai-sanitselfcanbeclimbedinadaywithanstart;themostpopularroutestartsfrom

Matsushima,abaystuddedwithatmosphericpine-coveredislands,immortalisedbyBashōandpopularwithJapanesesightseers.

1

Bandai-kōgenbusstopandclimbsuptheskiinggroundtothe &Severalminshuku(JapaneseB&B)catertohikersandskiers,andcostfrom¥6500perwithtwomeals.FormoredetailsandshukuInformationCentre(%32-2902).UraBandaiYouthHos dmfrom¥2900;hlateApr-Nov;i)Thisfriendlyoldhos hasasuperlocation,nexttooneoftheGoshiki-numatrailheads.

%022/popSendai,whilenowherenearasbigasTokyo,offerstravellersthebestofbothworlds–youwithoutthecold-shoulderreceptiononefindsfamousforsouvenirsofzunda,amildlysweet,brightgreenpastemadefromsoybeans,andgyutan,cow’stongue.Peoplearerefreshinglyfriendlyhere–abitofaparadox,asSendaiwasdemolishedbyAlliedbombingduringWWII.Luckyfortourists,residentshavelongforgottenaboutkee anygrudges,andthestrolls.BuildingssuchastheMediateque,with

22

OO

ee

3

NORTHERNNORTHERNHONSH(¥1000perday).It’saseven-minutewalkfromtheGoshiki-numaIriguchibus

itssee-throughglassandgiantcolumns,defydescription.Wow.

Shizugawa-Shizugawa-signpostedrightfromthecarpark.Thead-joiningcamgroundhas¥1000tentsand /fraserinJapanese rperincl2mealstionhasspick-and-spanroomsandagreatIriguchibusstation;lookinthedirectionoftheItalianrestaurant.

Sendai’sJōzenjiJazzFestival(p511)isatwo-day,open-airextravaganzainearlySep-tember;theSendaiTanabataMatsuri(p510)topsthat,though,withtwomillionvisitorseachyear.ThecityalsohasacompellinghistoryasthestomgroundoftheremarkablefeudallordDateMasamune(1567–1636),knownastheOne-EyedDragon(seetheboxedtext,p509).Anumberofintriguingsites

4411

IzumiIzumi22

Oku-

Onagawa-GettingThere&TheJRBanetsu-saisenlinekaisoku¥48029minutes)connectsAizu-WakamatsuwiththetownofInawashiro(猪苗代).FromoutsideInawashirostation,frequentbusesdepartfromstop3andpassbytheGoshiki-numaIriguchistop¥75025minutes),headingontoMiyagi-kenisaparadoxicalgatewaybetweentheveryruralareastothenorthandtherestofHonshū.Itscapital,Sendai,isTohokū’smostcosmopolitancity,afundestinationwithexcellenttouristsupportandalivelynightlife.DateMasamunedevelopedSendaiintoamajorcultureandtradecentreinthe1600s.Miyagi-

townpaytributetohisoverarchingpresence,generations’,apparentlyanindicationofhowlongMasamunefelthisclanwouldrule.5SendaimarksthelastplacesouthofSap-porothatyoucanfindagoodEnglishbook-shop,andisanidealbasetoarrangetickets,exchangeyourrailpass,check andseesomebrightlightsbeforeheadingtonearbyruralonsenoralongthecoast.5FromSendaistation,locatedeastofmostoftheaction,thebroadsweepofAoba-dōri,linedwithmanyofthemajordepartmentstores,banksandhos,leadswesttoapark,Aoba-yama.ThemainshopareasaretheasCLISRd)andIchibanchō-dōri,whichin-tersectjusteastofKokubunchō-dōri,the

Matsushima-44 ZaŸKakuda6466

Ishinomaki-SIGHTSSIGHTS& 1AkiuOnsen 2Geibikei㥦 3KamasakiOnsen㎨వ 4Koganeyamajinja㤛㊄ጊ⑔⑔................5NakayamadairaOnsenਛጊᐔ⑔ᴰ.....6A3NarukoOnsen㡆 8Hos⑔⑔⑔᧻ፉᅏ᧻ፉ

5508MIYAGI-KEN•• MIYAGI-KEN••SendaiNORTHERNHONSHNORTHERNHONSHAA1122

33556

40 0 500m 8 ToSendaiCityHospital

DDHos

byanasterisk. Sights&Sendaiiscompactandprettyenoughtomakeafulldayon-foottourapossibility,butiftimeismoney,usetheLoopletouristbus(seep513).Itincludesthefollowingsightsduringitsone-hourcircuit.

DateTadamuneandDateTsunamune.Whenthereconstructioncommenced,theremainsofthethreelords,aswellas alposses-sionsanditemsofarmour,wereexcavated.Thesearenowdisplayedinamuseumatthesite,asarelikenessesofthethree.Don’tmisstherathercuriouscomparisonofthelengthsoftheirnosesandtheshapesoftheirfore-NORTHERNHONSHsecondofSendai’sstarattractions.ThoughdestroyedduringAlliedbombinginWWII,thegiant,moss-coveredwallsareasimposingastheyareimpressive–andthespotmakesagreatmeander.BuiltonAoba-yamain1602byDateMasamune,itwasNORTHERNHONSH 77

destroyedbyAlliedbombingduring

asAoba-jō(GreenLeavesCastle),afteranearbyspringthatflowedevenduringtimesofdrought.ItaffordssweeviewsoverSendai ⟑ 3 4 〔

h10am-8pm)OntheAERbuilding’s5thfloor.2450;

andreconstructedin1979.Thepresentbuild-ingisanexactreplicaoftheoriginal,faithfultotheornateandsumptuousMomoyamastyle:acomplex,interlockingarchitecture,character-isedbymulticolouredwoodcarvings.AlsoatopthehillarethemausoleumsofMasamune’ssecondandthirdsuccessors,THEONE-EYED

city,butkeepinmindthatthere’snotalothereotherthanastirringstatueofMasamuneonhorseback,views,andlittleshopsandres-taurants.FortheJapaneseit’sthespiritthatcounts,andarmedwithalittleknowledgeoftheMasamunelegend,it’srathereasyfortheoutsidertogetcaughtupinit. fulstreetlinedwithlushfloorstepsawayfromthestation.SendaiCentral INTERNETcardsnotaccepted.

MEDICALSendaiCityHospital(仙台市立病院%266-MONEY&TOURIST4069; h8.30am-8pm)Insidethestation’swestexit,ithas

DateMasamuneisthemostfamousfigureinMiyagi’sfeudalhistory.NicknamedDokuganryū(One-EyedDragon)afterhecaughtsmallpoxasachildandwentblindinhisrighteye,hecom-binedmilitarynouswithcommercialinstinct,rankingamongthemostimportantlordsinfeudalJapan.Hewasalsoanaesthetewithfinelydevelopedtastesinnōtheatre(stylisedJapanesedance-dramaperformedonabarestage)andcalligraphy,andtransformedSendaiintoamajorculturalcentre.MasamunebecameheadoftheDateclanattheageof17andquicklyincreasedhisterritorythroughferociousskillonthebattleground.WhenJapanwaswrackedbycivilwarin1598,Ma-samunesidedwithTokugawaIeyasu’svictoriousfaction.ForhiseffortsMasamunewasgrantedcontrolovertheSendai ,andsoonaftermovedhisbaseofoperationstothevillageofSendaiinordertogainaccesstotheport.HeconstructedAobaCastlein1601andthenproceededtobuildSendaiasamajorfocusoftrade,constructingasaltworksandensuringtheregion daconsiderable tyofthecountry’sgrain.Healsooversawtheconstructionofaseriesoftemples,shrinesandothersitesofspiritualsignificance.ButDate’srulewasalsoremarkableforhisdevelointerestinChristianity.ThisculminatedinhisdispatchofJapan’sfirstdiplomaticenvoy,seekingtradewith