纺织基本常识,有用啊课件

BASICPRINCIPLESOFTEXTILE

紡织基本常識原料–纺–织–染–整RAWMATERIAL–SPINNING–WEAVE–DYEING–FINISHING即40S/1要比20S/1的纱支幼细

GENERICNAMESOFTEXTILEFIBERS-USA

原料纺织纤維專用名稱

NATURALFIBERS天然纤維CELLULOSE(VEGETABLE)纤維素(植物纤維)COTTON棉FLAXORLINEN亚麻HEMP大麻JUTE黃麻RAMIE苎麻MANILAHEMP馬尼拉麻MINERAL礦物纤維ASBESTOS石棉KERATIN(ANIMAL)角蛋白(动物)ALPACA駝羊CAMELHAIR駱駝絨CASHMERE羊絨HORSEHAIR馬MOHAIR安哥拉山羊RABBITHAIR兔毛SILK–BOMBYXTUSSAH中国種桑蚕WOOL羊毛MAN-MADEFIBERS

人造纤維ACETATE醋酸纤维SECONDARYTRIACETATEACRYLIC腈纶GLASS玻璃LYOCELLMETALLIC金属MODACRYLIC改性腈纶NYLON6,66锦纶,尼龍NYTRILOLEFIN聚烯烃类POLYETHYLENE乙纶POLYPROPYLENE丙纶POLYESTER涤纶RAYON粘胶CUPRAMMONIUM铜氨VISCOSE粘胶人造丝RUBBER橡胶VINYON维尼纶FROMFIBRETOFABRIC

由纤維到织物FROMRAWMATERIALSGOTHROUGHSPINNINGPROCESSTORAWYARNAFTERDRAWINGBECOMETOCONEOFYARN,READYFORWEAVEINGORKNITTINGTHEREARETHREETYPEOFFABRIC WOVENFABRIC KNITTINGFABRIC NON-WOVEN纺织-先紡後织,纺是將原料不論是植,动物或是人造纤維都須要經過不同的程序後,纺成不同粗細的紗.之後以便供給织布或其他不同行業用.织-常見多為平织或針织,织物可分為三类平织針织無纺布不织布YARNIDENTIFICATION

一般常見的紗支表示方式SPUNYARN捻紗SYMBOL表示:s–RingSpun環錠紗,各種尺寸Carded普梳,CombYarn精梳OpenEnd(OE)氣流纺,YARNCOUNT紗支

LARGENUMBERMORETHINERTHEYARNSINGLEYARN40/132/1PLYYARN40/250/2FILAMENTYARN(MANMADEFIBERS)長絲紗SYMBOL表示:d–DENIERYARNCOUNT纱支

LARGENUMBERMORETHICKYARN150d/144f–150Denieryarnsizeformby144filamentMicrofiber–eachfilamentyarnsizeunder1Denier.長絲紗-是由一根或多根連續平行較細的長絲組合成紗,一般以dDenier旦尼尔,是以9,000米長,紗有多少克重量.1d=9,000米的紗重1克重.D值越小,纱线越细,即75d要比150d的纱支幼细.超細纤維-紗支內每一根長絲小於1d祢為超細纤維.75D/96F,75d粗細由96根長絲組合成的紗.捻紗

-目前所讲的纱支数大都是指“英制支数”，用英文字“S”表示.它的定义是：在公定回潮率，重一磅的纱线，它的长度有几个840码，就称为几支纱线.纱线越粗，S值就越小，纱线越细，则“S”值越大.即40S/1要比20S/1的纱支幼细.FABRICCONTENTS,织物成份BASEONTHERAWMATERIALS100%COTTON65%COTTON35%POLYESTERBLENDYARNISCROSSSPUNTWOMATERIALSCROSSWEAVINGTWOMATERIALS依原材料表示100%棉65%棉35%涤有混紡或是交织平织布平织布组织是由二根紗,簡單交织在织布機上組成.這二根紗一般祢作经及緯在英文表示為WARP,及WEFT.又可示為ENDS单根头分及PICKS梭(一般国内是以公制计算头分及梭敉數)經紗一般在布面上為密度較高,同時是与布边平行,紗品貭及捻度較高.织布时一般要浆纱.緯紗是由布辺到布辺与經向交錯,不需浆纱.依织布機的装備不同,可织造不同組织多種不同的布,一般通用有平紋(府綢),斜紋布,可分為STWILL左斜或ZTWILL右斜,左斜為左高向右低,反之為右斜,通常經向双股紗時為右斜.這以布正面檢示為準.另有色丁鍛紋,小提花,大提花.及有絨毛织物如灯芯絨及平絨(絨是在织後再割剪而成的)织物的組织及经緯密度直接関係到布面外觀,手感,厚薄,功能效果,及强度耍求.針织布針织布是使用一根連續紗所組成的布.主要分成二大類weftknits緯編及warpknits經編.WeftKnits–緯編织的紗是水平方向,由一端到另一端,一般常見的針织布多為园機針织circularknitting.胚布及成品經常成园筒状,或經開辺成平布.WarpKnits–經編的紗是沿布延升方向,一般经編針织布的彈性較緯編布差.針织布亦有提花,大提花,等不同织法,及疋染色或色织.基本針织布如右边所示BASICWEFTKNITSPECIALIZEDWEFTKNITJERSEY单面DOUBLEKNITS双面RIB罗纹PILEKNITS绒毛KNITTEDTERRY毛圈INTERLOCKKNITS双面DYEDANDFINISHED染色及整理PIECEDYED疋染MADETHEGREIGETHENDYED先织後染DYECLASS:染料分類DIRECTDYES直接SULPHURDYES硫化VATDYE還原(士林)INDIGODYES靛藍REACTIVEDYES活性ACIDDYES酸性染料DISPERSEDYES分散染料PIGMENT顏料YARNDYED色织DYEDTHEYARNTHENWEAVEORKNIT先染後织可使用不同染料PIGMENT-DYEDORPRINTED顏料染色或印花PRINTING印花ROLLER輥筒印花ROTARYSCREEN园网印花FLATSCREEN平网印花HEATTRANSFER熱転印紙印花DYECLASS染料分類DIRECTDYES–WIDERANGECOLORS,CHEAPANDSIMPLE,POORWETANDLIGHTFASTNESS–CELLULOSIC直接染料–僅用於植物纤維,便宜及橾做簡單,各種顏色可選用,惟對濕擦及日光牢度差SULPHURDYES–DARKANDDULLMAINLYBROWN,KHAKI,BLUEANDBLACKWASHING,DRYCLEARING,LIGHTANDPERSPIRATIONFASTNESSISGOODBUTRUBBINGISPOOR.-CELLULOSIC硫化染料–多用於深及暗的顏色,一般為棕,卡其,藍及黑色.不受漂.對水洗,乾洗,日光牢度好,但磨擦牢度差.VATDYES–INSOLUBLEDYESTUFFWITHOUTSPECIALREDUCTIONTREATMENT.MAINLYDARKHUESBUTBRIGHTERANDBROADERRANGETHANSULPHURDYES.EXCELLENTFASTNESSTOWASHING,LIGHTANDPERSPIRATION.FASTTOCHLORINEOXIDIZINGBLEACHES.-CELLULOSIC還原染料–又稱士林染料是–種不溶性染料,用於深及鮮豔色,水洗,日光牢度很好.而且可受漂.REACTIVEDYES–FULLRANGEOFCOLORS.NOTFASTTOWASHING.FAIRTOGOODFASTNESSTOLIGHT.-CELLULOSIC,PROTEINFIBER,(WOOL,SILK)活性染料–利用化学反應与纤維接合,各種顏色,及牢度良好.ACIDDYES–COMPLETECOLORSRANGE,BRIGHTANDEASYAPPLICATION.MAINLYAPPLYTOPROTEINFIBERANDNYLON酸性染料–容易染色,有各種顏色,主要用於蛋白質及尼龍絲.DISPERSEDYES–FULLRANGEOFCOLORS.SMALLPARTICLEFOREASETOPENETRATE.SPECIALDESIGNEDFORDYEINGPOLYESTER分散染料–有各種顏色,染料分子小容易穿透上色.主要用於涤綸PIGMENT–COMPLETERANGEOFCOLORS,NOTATRUEDYESTUFF.INSOLUBLEANDHASNOAFFINITYTOFIBER.MECHANICALLYADHEREDONTHEFIBERSURFACEBYTHEUSEOFBINDER.PERFORMANCEANDFASTNESSPROPERTIESDEPENDONNATUREOFBINDER.POORRUBBINGANDSOLVENTFASTNESS顏料–非正式的染料,無法溶解与紗結合,是利用接合劑与布表面粘合色牢度及功能是依接合劑而定.磨擦牢度不好.METHODOFDYEING,PIECEDYED平织疋染色方式JIGGERDYEING卷染BATCHDYEING浸染–針织CONTINUOUSDYEING連續壓染FINISHINGMERCEIZATION絲光PEACHSKIN桃皮絨效果SANDING磨毛BRUSHING抓毛COATING涂層WASHING洗水BLEACHING漂白GARMENTDYE成衣染色PFP-PREPARINGFORPRINTING前处理印花用半漂布PFD-PREPARINGFORDYEING前处理染色用半漂布

CONTINUOUSDYEINGFINISHINGNON-WOVEN無纺布,不织布ATEXTILESTRUCTUREPRODUCEDBYBONDINGORINTERLOCKINGOFFIBERSORBOTH;ACCOMPLISHEDBYMECHANICAL,CHEMICAL.THERMAL,ORSOLVENTMEANSANDCOMBINATIONS.是纤维经由机械,化学,热溶及粘合而成,FORINTERLING,NEEDLEPUNCHINGORSPUNLACED,ANDTHEDISPOSALGARMENTS.主要用於衬,及用针刺法或水刺法做成填充棉,及用於即弃成衣等.一般以重量厚度表示.ZIPPERSIZE拉链尺寸SIZE尺寸WIDTHOFTEETHORCOILWHENZIPPERISCLOSED(mm)拉好後的牙寬12.7–2.923.0–3.63,44.0–5.55,65.7–6.67,8,9,8.1–9.11011.4