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30/30
wicking,chemicalorelectrostaticaction.
Monk'sCloth
Aheavyweightcottonfabricutilizingthebasketweavevariationoftheplainweave.Usedfordraperiesandslipcovers,monk'sclothisanexampleof4x4basketweave.Ithaspoordimensionalstabilityandtendstosnag.
Monofilament
Asinglefilamentofamanufacturedfiber,usuallymadeinadenierhigherthan14.Monofilamentsareusuallyspunsingularly,ratherthanextrudedasagroupoffilamentsthroughaspinneretandspunintoayarn.End-usesincludehosieryandsewingthread.
Muslin
Aninexpensive,mediumweight,plainweave,lowcount(lessthan160threadspersquareinch)cottonsheetingfabric.Initsunfinishedform,itiscommonlyusedinfashiondesigntomaketrialgarmentsforpreliminaryfit.
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N
Nainsook
Alightweightplainweavecottonfabric,usuallyfinishedtocreatealusterandasofthand.Commonend-usesareinfants'wear,blouses,andlingerie.
Nap
Afuzzy,fur-likefeelcreatedwhenfiberendsextendfromthebasicfabricstructuretothefabricsurface.Thefabriccanbenappedoneitheroneorbothsides.
Net
Anopenfabric,whichiscreatedbyconnectingtheintersectionsinawoven,knitted,orcrochetedconstructiontoformamesh-likeappearancethatwon'travel.End-usesincludeveils,curtains,andfishnets.
Ninon
Alightweight,plainweave,madeofsilkormanufacturedfibers,withanopenmesh-likeappearance.Sincethefabricismadewithhightwistfilamentyarns,ithasacrisphand.Endusesincludeeveningwearandcurtains.
NonwovenFabric
Fabricsmadedirectlyfromindividualfibersthataremattedtogetherbyforminganinterlockingweboffiberseithermechanically(tanglingtogether)orchemically(gluing,bonding,ormeltingtogether).
NoveltyYarn
Ayarnthatisintentionallyproducedtohaveaspecialoruniqueeffect.Theseeffectscanbeproducedbytwistingtogetherunevensingleyarns,byusingyarnsthatcontainirregularities,orbytwistingyarnsthatcontainacolorvariance.Aslubbedyarnisanexampleofanoveltyyarn.
Nylon
Producedin1938,thefirstcompletelysyntheticfiberdeveloped.Knownforitshighstrengthandexcellentresilience,nylonhassuperiorabrasionresistanceandhighflexibility.
Nytril
Amanufacturedfiber,mostoftenusedinsweatersorpilefabrics,wherelittleornopressingisrecommended,asthefiberhasalowsofteningormeltingpoint.However,ithasalsobeensuccessfullyusedinblendswithwoolforthepurposeofminimizingshrinkageandimprovingtheshaperetentioningarments.
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O
Olefin(alsoknownaspolyolefinandpolypropylene)
Amanufacturedfibercharacterizedbyitslightweight,highstrength,andabrasionresistance.Olefinisalsogoodattransportingmoisture,creatingawickingaction.End-usesincludeactivewearapparel,rope,indoor-outdoorcarpets,lawnfurniture,andupholstery.
Organdy
Astiffened,sheer,lightweightplainweavefabric,withamediumtohighyarncount.End-usesincludeblouses,dresses,andcurtains/draperies.
Organza
Acrisp,sheer,lightweightplainweavefabric,withamediumtohighyarncount,madeofsilk,rayon,nylon,orpolyester.Thefabricisusedprimarilyineveningandweddingapparelforwomen.
Osnaburg
Atoughmediumtoheavyweightcoarselywovenplainweavefabric,usuallymadeofacottonorcotton/polyblend.Lowergradesoftheunfinishedfabricareusedforsuchindustrialpurposesasbags,sacks,pipecoverings.Highergradesoffinishedosnaburgcanbefoundinmattressticking,slipcovers,workwear,andapparel.
Ottoman
Atightlywovenplainweaveribbedfabricwithahardslightlylusteredsurface.Theribbedeffectiscreatedbyweavingafinersilkormanufacturedwarpyarnwithaheavierfilleryarn,usuallymadeofcotton,wool,orwasteyarn.Intheconstruction,theheavierfilleryarniscompletelycoveredbythewarpyarn,thuscreatingtheribbedeffect.Endusesforthisfabricincludecoats,suits,dresses,upholstery,anddraperies.
Oxford
Afine,soft,lightweightwovencottonorblendedwithmanufacturedfibersina2x1basketweavevariationoftheplainweaveconstruction.Thefabricisusedprimarilyinshirtings.
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P
Paisley
Atear-dropshaped,fancyprintedpattern,usedindresses,blouses,andmen'sties.
PannéVelvet
Atypeoflustrous,lightweightvelvetfabric,usuallymadeofsilkoramanufacturedfiber,inwhichthepilehasbeenflattenedinonedirection.
PeaudeSoie
Aheavytwillweavedrapeablesatinfabric,madeofsilkoramanufacturedfiber,andusedforbridalgownsandeveningwear.
Percale
Amediumweight,plainweave,lowtomediumcount(180to250threadspersquareinch)cotton-likefabric.End-usesincludesheets,blouses,anddresses.
PileKnit
Atypeofknitconstructionwhichutilizesaspecialyarnorasliverthatisinterloopedintoastandardknitbase.Thisconstructionisusedintheformationofimitationfurfabrics,inspeciallinersforcoldweatherapparelsuchasjacketsandcoats,andinsomefloorcoverings.Whileanybasicknitstitchmaybeusedforthebaseofpileknits,themostcommonisthejerseystitch.
PileWeave
Atypeofdecorativeweaveinwhichapileisformedbyadditionalwarporfillingyarnsinterlacedinsuchawaythatloopsareformedonthesurfaceorfaceofthefabric.Theloopsmaybeleftuncut,ortheymaybecuttoexposeyarnendsandproducecutpilefabric.
Pill
Atangledballoffibersthatappearsonthesurfaceofafabric,asaresultofwearorcontinuedfrictionorrubbingonthesurfaceofthefabric.
Piqué
Amedium-weightfabric,eitherknitorwoven,withraiseddobbydesignsincludingcords,wales,waffles,orpatterns.Wovenversionshavecordsrunninglengthwise,orinthewarpdirection.Knittedversionsaredouble-knitfabricconstructions,createdonmulti-feedcircularknittingmachines.
PlainWeave
Abasicweave,utilizingasimplealternateinterlacingofwarpandfillingyarns.Anytypeofyarnmadefromanytypeoffibercanbemanufacturedintoaplainweavefabric.
PliedYarn
Atwistingtogetheroftwoormoresingleyarnsinoneoperation.
Plissé
Alightweight,plainweave,fabric,madefromcotton,rayon,oracetate,andcharacterizedbyapuckeredstripedeffect,usuallyinthewarpdirection.Thecrinkledeffectiscreatedthroughtheapplicationofacausticsodasolution,whichshrinksthefabricintheareasofthefabricwhereitisapplied.Plisséissimilarinappearancetoseersucker.End-usesincludedresses,shirtings,pajamas,andbedspreads.
Polyester
Amanufacturedfiberintroducedintheearly1950s,andissecondonlytocottoninworldwideuse.Polyesterhashighstrength(althoughsomewhatlowerthannylon),excellentresiliency,andhighabrasionresistance.Lowabsorbencyallowsthefibertodryquickly.
Polypropylene(alsoknownaspolyolefinandOlefin)
Amanufacturedfibercharacterizedbyitslightweight,highstrength,andabrasionresistance.Polypropyleneisalsogoodattransportingmoisture,creatingawickingaction.End-usesincludeactivewearapparel,rope,indoor-outdoorcarpets,lawnfurniture,andupholstery.
Pongee
Themostcommonformisanaturallycoloredlightweight,plainweave,silk-likefabricwithaslubbedeffect.End-usesincludeblouses,dresses,etc.
Poplin
Afabricmadeusingaribvariationoftheplainweave.Theconstructionischaracterizedbyhavingaslightridgeeffectinonedirection,usuallythefilling.Poplinusedtobeassociatedwithcasualclothing,butasthe"worldofwork"hasbecomemorerelaxed,thisfabrichasdevelopedintoastapleofmen'swardrobes,beingusedfrequentlyincasualtrousers.
PurlStitch
Abasicstitchusedinweftknitting,whichproducesknitfabricsthathavethesameappearanceonbothsides.Thepurlstitchisfrequentlyusedincombinationwiththejerseyandribstitchestoproduceaknittedfabricdesign.Sweaters,knittedfabricsforinfantsandchildren'swear,knittedfabricsforspecializedsportswear,andbulkyknitfabricsarecommonlymadeusingthepurlstitch.
Resiliency
Theabilityofafabrictospringbacktoitsoriginalshapeafterbeingtwisted,crushed,wrinkled,ordistortedinanyway.
Rip-stopNylon
Alightweight,windresistant,andwaterresistantplainweavefabric.Largeribyarnsstoptearswithoutaddingexcessweighttoactivesportswearapparelandoutdoorequipmentsuchassleepingbagsandtents.
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S
Sailcloth
Anyheavy,plain-weavecanvasfabric,usuallymadeofcotton,linen,polyester,jute,nylon,etc.thatisusedforsailsandapparel(i.e.bottomweightsportswear).
SaranFiber
Amanufacturedfiberwhichhasanexcellentresistancetosunlightandweathering,andisusedinlawnfurniture,upholstery,andcarpets.
SateenFabric
Afabricmadefromyarnswithlowluster,suchascottonorotherstaplelengthfibers.Thefabrichasasoft,smoothhandandagentle,subtleluster.Sateenfabricsareoftenusedfordraperiesandupholstery.
SateenWeave
Avariationofthesatinweave,producedbyfloatingfillyarnsoverwarpyarns.
SatinFabric
Atraditionalfabricutilizingasatinweaveconstructiontoachievealustrousfabricsurface.Satinisatraditionalfabricforeveningandweddinggarments.Typicalexamplesofsatinweavefabricsinclude:slippersatin,crepe-backsatin,faillesatin,bridalsatin,moleskin,andantiquesatin.
SatinWeave
Abasicweave,characterizedbylongfloatsofyarnonthefaceofthefabric.Theyarnsareinterlacedinsuchamannerthatthereisnodefinite,visiblepatternofinterlacingand,inthismanner,asmoothandsomewhatshinysurfaceeffectisachieved.Theshinysurfaceeffectisfurtherincreasedthroughtheuseofhighlusterfilamentfibersinyarnswhichalsohavealowamountoftwist.Atruesatinweavefabricalwayshasthewarpyarnsfloatingoverfillingyarns.
Seersucker
Awovenfabricwhichincorporatesmodificationoftensioncontrol.Intheproductionofseersucker,someofthewarpyarnsareheldundercontrolledtensionatalltimesduringtheweaving,whileotherwarpyarnsareinarelaxedstateandtendtopuckerwhenthefillingyarnsareplaced.Theresultproducesapuckeredstripeeffectinthefabric.Seersuckeristraditionallymadeintosummersportswearsuchasshirts,trousers,andinformalsuits.
SelvageorSelvedge
Thethincompressededgeofawovenfabricwhichrunsparalleltothewarpyarnsandpreventsraveling.Itisusuallywoven,utilizingtougheryarnsandatighterconstructionthantherestofthefabric.
Serge
Afabricwithasmoothhandthatiscreatedbyatwo-up,two-downtwillweave.
Serging
Anovercastingtechniquedoneonthecutedgeofafabrictopreventraveling.
Shantung
Amedium-weight,plainweavefabric,characterizedbyaribbedeffect,resultingfromslubbedyarnsusedinthewarporfillingdirection.End-usesincludedressesandsuits.
Sharkskin
Ahard-finished,lowlustered,medium-weightfabricinatwill-weaveconstruction.Itismostcommonlyfoundinmen'sworstedsuitings;however,itcanalsobefoundinaplain-weaveconstructionofacetate,triacetate,andrayonforwomen'ssportswear.</FONT
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Silk
Anaturalfilamentfiberproducedbythesilkwormintheconstructionofitscocoon.Mostsilkiscollectedfromcultivatedworms;Tussahsilk,orwildsilk,isathicker,shorterfiberproducedbywormsintheirnaturalhabitat.AllsilkcomesfromAsia,primarilyChina.
Sisal
AstrongbastfiberthatoriginatesfromtheleavesoftheAgaveplant,whichisfoundintheWestIndies,CentralAmerica,andAfrica.End-usesincludecordageandtwine.
Solution-dyed
Atypeoffiberdyeinginwhichcoloredpigmentsareinjectedintothespinningsolutionpriortotheextrusionofthefiberthroughthespinneret.Fibersandyarnscoloredinthismannerarecolor-fasttomostdestructiveagents.
SpandexFiber
Amanufacturedelastomericfiberthatcanberepeatedlystretchedover500%withoutbreaking,andwillstillrecovertoitsoriginallength.
Spinneret
Ametalnozzletypedevicewithveryfineholesusedinthespinningprocessofmanufacturedfibers.Thespinningsolutionisforcedorextrudedthroughthesmallholestoformcontinuousfilamentfibers.Theholesinthespinneretcanvaryindiametertoproducefibersofvariousdenier.
SpotWeave
Awovenconstructioninwhichpatternsarebuiltinatspacedintervalsthroughtheuseofextrawarpand/orextrafillyarnsareplacedinselectedareas.TheseyarnsarewovenintothefabricbymeansofadobbyorJacquardattachment.
SpunYarn
Ayarnmadebytakingagroupofshortstaplefibers,whichhavebeencutfromthelongercontinuousfilamentfibers,andthentwistingtheseshortstaplefiberstogethertoformasingleyarn,whichisthenusedforweavingorknittingfabrics.
StapleFibers
Shortfibers,typicallyrangingfrom1/2inchupto18incheslong.Wool,cotton,andflaxexistonlyasstaplefibers.Manufacturedstaplefibersarecuttoaspecificlengthfromthecontinuousfilamentfiber.Usuallythestaplefiberiscutinlengthsrangingfrom1-1/2inchesto8incheslong.Agroupofstaplefibersaretwistedtogethertoformayarn,whichisthenwovenorknitintofabrics.
Surah
Alightweight,lustroustwillweaveconstructedfabricwithasilk-likehand.Surahisthefabricofties,dresses,andfurnishings.Itisavailableinsilk,polyester,andrayon.
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T
Taffeta
Alustrous,mediumweight,plainweavefabricwithaslightribbedappearanceinthefilling(crosswise)direction.Forformalwear,taffetaisafavoritechoice.Itprovidesacrisphand,withlotsofbody.Silktaffetagivestheultimaterustle,butotherfibersarealsogoodchoices.
Tapestry
Aheavy,oftenhand-woven,ribbedfabric,featuringanelaboratedesigndepictingahistoricalorcurrentpictorialdisplay.Theweft-facedfabricdesignismadebyusingcoloredfillingyarns,onlyinareaswhereneeded,thatareworkedbackandforthoverspunwarpyarns,whicharevisibleontheback.End-usesincludewallhangingsandupholstery.
TensionControlWeave
Atypeofdecorativeweave,characterizedbyapuckeredeffectwhichoccursbecausethetensioninthewarpyarnsisintentionallyvariedbeforethefillingyarnsareplacedinthefabric.
TerryCloth
Atypicaluncutpileweavefabric.Thisfabricisformedbyusingtwosetsofwarpyarns.Onesetofwarpyarnsisunderverylittletension;whenthefillingyarnsarepackedintoplace,theselooseyarnsarepushedbackwardalongwiththefillingyarns,andloopsareformed.Typicalusesincludetowels,robes,andapparel.
TerryVelour
Apileweavecottonfabricwithanuncutpileononesideandacutpileonthereverseside.Terryvelourisvaluedforitssoft,luxurioushand.Typicalusesincludetowels,robes,andapparel.
Ticking
Atightlywoven,verydurablefabric,usuallymadeofcotton,andusedforcoveringmattresses,boxsprings,pillows,andworkclothes.Thefabriccanbemadebyusingaplain,satin,ortwillweaveconstruction.
Triacetate
Amanufacturedfiber,whichlikeacetate,ismadebymodifyingcellulose.However,evenmoreacetategroupshavebeenaddedtocreatethisfiber.Triacetateislessabsorbentandlesssensitivetohightemperaturesthanacetate.Itcanbehandormachinewashedandtumbledried,withrelativelygoodwrinklerecovery.
TricotKnit
Awarpknitfabricinwhichthefabricisformedbyinterloopingadjacentparallelyarns.Thewarpbeamholdsthousandsofyardsofyarnsinaparallelarrangement,andtheseyarnsarefedintotheknittingareasimultaneously.Sufficientyarnstoproducethefinalfabricwidthandlengthareonthebeam.Tricotknitsarefrequentlyusedinwomen'slingerieitemssuchasslips,bras,panties,andnightgowns.
Tulle
Alightweight,extremelyfine,machine-madenetting,usuallywithahexagonshapedmesheffect.End-usesincludedancecostumesandveils.
Tweed
Amediumtoheavyweight,fluffy,woolen,twillweavefabriccontainingcoloredslubbedyarns.Commonend-usesincludecoatsandsuits.
TwillWeave
Abasicweaveinwhichthefabricsareconstructedbyinterlacingwarpandfillingyarnsinaprogressivealternationwhichcreatesadiagonaleffectontheface,orrightside,ofthefabric.Insometwillweavefabrics,thediagonaleffectmayalsobeseenclearlyonthebacksideofthefabric.
Twist
Atermthatappliestothenumberofturnsandthedirectionthattwoyarnsareturnedduringthemanufacturingprocess.Theyarntwistbringsthefibersclosetogetherandmakesthemcompact.Ithelpsthefibersadheretooneanother,increasingyarnstrength.Thedirectionandamountofyarntwisthelpsdetermineappearance,performance,durabilityofbothyarnsandthesubsequentfabricortextileproduct.Singleyarnsmaybetwistedtotheright(Stwist)ortotheleft(Ztwist).Generally,woolenandworstedyarnsareS-twist,whilecottonandflaxyarnsaretypicallyZ-twist.Twistisgenerallyexpressedasturnsperinch(tpi),turnspermeter(tpm),orturnspercentimeter(tpc).
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U
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V
Velour
Amediumweight,closelywovenfabricwithathickpile.Itcanbemadeusingeitheraplainweaveorasatinweaveconstruction.Itresemblesvelvet,buthasalowercutpile.Endusesincludeapparel,upholstery,anddrapes.
Velvet
Amediumweightcut-pileconstructedfabricinwhichthecutpilestandsupverystraight.Itiswovenusingtwosetsofwarpyarns;theextrasetcreatesthepile.Velvet,aluxuriousfabric,iscommonlymadewithafilamentfiberforhighlusterandsmoothhand.
Velveteen
Acottoncut-pileweavefabric,utilizingextrafillyarnconstruction,witheitheratwilloraplainweaveback.Thefabriciswovenwithtwosetsoffillingyarns;theextrasetcreatesthepile.
Viscose
Themostcommontypeofrayon.Itisproducedinmuchgreaterquantitythancuprammoniumrayon,theothercommercialtype.
Voile
Acrisp,lightweight,plainweavecotton-likefabric,madewithhightwistyarnsinahighyarncountconstruction.Similarinappearancetoorgandyandorganza.Usedinblousesdressesandcurtains.
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W
Warp
Inwovenfabric,theyarnsthatrunlengthwiseandisinterwovenwiththefill(weft)yarns.
WarpKnit
Atypeofknittedfabricconstructioninwhichtheyarnsareformedintostitchesinalengthwisemanner.Warpknitsaregenerallylesselasticthanweftknits.C
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