制鞋业标准流程之-针车篇

針車鞋面

STITCHUPPER1.針車部門的任務是:

把裁斷好的鞋面各配件依照量產操作說明書指示操作標准及流程針車組合成鞋面,在針車過程中加貼補強,以增加某些部位的拉力及防止縐折或塌陷等等.

ItisthetaskofstitchingdepartmenttostitchthecomponentscutbycuttingdepartmentintoupperaccordingtotheSOP&procedureindicatedtheproductionoperationmanualincludingaddingsomereinforcementsonsomeareatostrengthen&preventfromwrinklingorcollapsingetc.

2.為提高生產效率,針車操作流程一定要合理,順暢.

Inordertoadvanceproductionefficiency,makesuretheprocedurelogicalandsmooth.

3.必須注意針車的邊距/行距/針距/所用針的大小及種類/用線的規格及種類必須正確.

Mustmakesurethestitchingmargin&rowdistance&howmanystitchingperinch/spec&kindofneedleorthreadproper.

4.操作時,必須依照印刷線或記號點作業,針車線路要順,松緊適度.

Duringoperating,stitchingmustfollowuptheprintlineornickmarktomakesurethestitchinglinesmooth&thethreadmoderate.

車鞋舌布標

STITCHTONGUELABEL1,使用平車,用14#的針.針距:9針/英寸,邊距:1.5mmUsetheflatbedsewingmachinetostitchwith9needlesperinch&1.5mmmargin.

2,針車時按印刷線車,不可移位

Stitchfollowingtheprintinglineandmakesurenotmoveoffitduringstitching.3.車時邊距大小要均勻.Stitchingthemarginshouldbeconsistent.

4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard平車FlatbedsewingM/C車線Thread針Needle1,使用平車,用14#的針.針距:9針/英寸,邊距:2mmUsetheflatbedsewingmachinetostitchwith9needlesperinch&2mmmargin.

2,反接邊距一致且平順,特別是在轉彎處

Themarginshouldbeconsistent&smooth,especiallyonthecornerportion.

3.按記號點車高低要一致﹐不可車錯方向。Tostitchshouldfollowthemark,notallowtostitchfromwrongdirection.鞋舌與鞋舌內里反接

STITCHTONGUE&TONLINGAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle平車FlatbedsewingM/C1.鞋舌背面上緣刷膠10mm寬,用766N黃膠.注意刷膠要均勻,不能積膠或膠水外溢.Cementthetogedge10mmwidthofbackoftonguewith766Nyellowglue.Andmakesuretocementevenly,don’tallowthegluetoomuchoroverflow.2,鞋舌內里外翻3mm要標准,平順.特別是轉彎處,型狀要翻出來.Duringoverturnthetonguelining,makesureitexposed3.0mmconsistent&smooth.Especiallyonthecornerportion,theshapeshouldbecorrect.3.捶平鞋舌邊緣.Hammerthetopedgeoftongueafteroverturnthelining.翻鞋舌內里

OVERTURNTONGUELININGAppliedTooling:翻刀Supporterforoverturningthelining翻鞋舌內里鞋舌上緣捶平車鞋舌封邊及車防偽標

STITCHINGTONGUEEDGE&SECURITYLABEL1,使用平車,用14#的針.針距:9針/英寸,邊距:2mmUsetheflatbedsewingmachinetostitchwith9needlesperinch&2mmmargin.

2,防偽標與SIZE標的位置必須正確:A.均車在右腳內腰B.其在鞋舌上位置分為兩種:一是車在鞋舌邊緣,一是車在鞋舌中間.通常將布標車在鞋舌中間防偽標對折車平齊布標上的SIZE方格線,只有當鞋舌內里較小或鞋舌上有布耳時,將其車在鞋舌邊緣指定位置,防偽標對折平齊布標上第一個英文字母.Makesurethepositionofsizelabel&securitylabelcorrect:Stitchtheboth

ontongueonthemedialsideofrightfoot.ForPumashoes,therearetwoconstructiontostitchthem:oneistostitchontongueedge,anotheroneistostitchonthecenteroftongue.Commonlyputthesecuritylabelbetweentongueliningandsizelabel&makeitalignthesizelineofsizelabel,thenstitchwiththesizelabelonthecenteroftongue.Onlywhenthetongueliningisshortorhavetongueloop,needstitchthemonthetongueedge,putthesecuritysizetoalignthefirstEnglishletterofsizelabel,thenputthemtogetherbetweentongueandtongueliningaspertheindicatedmark,atlaststitchtongueedgewiththem.鞋舌下緣鎖千鳥

STITCHTONGUELOWERWITHZIGZAG

備注:為了避免須邊或鞋舌泡棉黃變,鞋舌下緣需鎖千鳥.Remark:Stitchthetongueedgejustinordertoavoidedgefrombreakingandpreventthetonguepaddingfromyellowing.

1,使用千鳥車,用16#的針.針距:7針/英寸,邊距:2.5mmUsethezigzagmachinetostitchwith7needlesperinch&2.5mmmargin.

2.千鳥不能有落馬和寬窄不一致及重疊的現象.Tostitchzigzagshouldbeconsistent&complete&smooth,notallowtooverlapandjumpstitching.3.千烏起收針位置要倒3-4針.Needbackstitch3-4stitchesonthestart&stopstitchingportion.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle平車FlatbedsewingM/C貼后助補強

ATTACHEHEELCAPREINF1,后助及后助補強刷膠,用766N黃膠.Cementtheheelcap&heelcapreinfwith766Nyellowglue.

2,刷膠要到位,但不能過多積膠.Shouldcementcompletely,butdon’tcementtoomuch.

3按印刷線貼補強.Attachthereinforcementaspertheprintingline.AppliedTooling:膠壺Gluepot后助擦膠后助補強擦膠貼補強鞋身與鞋身接片鎖千鳥

STITCHZIGZAGQTR&QTREXTENSION1,使用千鳥車,用16#的針.針距:7針/英寸,邊距:2.5mmUsethezigzagmachinetostitchwith7needlesperinch&2.5mmmargin.

2.千鳥不能有落馬和寬窄不一致及重疊的現象.Tostitchzigzagshouldbeconsistent&complete&smooth,notallowtooverlapandjumpstitching.3.千烏起收針位置要倒3-4針.Needbackstitch3-4stitchesonthestart&stopstitchingportion.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle平車FlatbedsewingM/C鞋面與鞋身鎖千鳥

STITCHZIGZAGVAMP&QTR1,使用千鳥車,用16#的針.針距:7針/英寸,邊距:2.5mmUsethezigzagmachinetostitchwith7needlesperinch&2.5mmmargin.

2.千鳥不能有落馬和寬窄不一致及重疊的現象.Tostitchzigzagshouldbeconsistent&complete&smooth,notallowtooverlapandjumpstitching.3.千烏起收針位置要倒3-4針.Needbackstitch3-4stitchesonthestart&stopstitchingportion.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle平車FlatbedsewingM/C后助與滾口鎖千鳥

STITCHZIGZAGHEELCAP&COLLAR1,使用千鳥車,用16#的針.針距:7針/英寸,邊距:2.5mmUsethezigzagmachinetostitchwith7needlesperinch&2.5mmmargin.

2.千鳥不能有落馬和寬窄不一致及重疊的現象.Tostitchzigzagshouldbeconsistent&complete&smooth,notallowtooverlapandjumpstitching.3.千烏起收針位置要倒3-4針.Needbackstitch3-4stitchesonthestart&stopstitchingportion.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle平車FlatbedsewingM/C鞋面外與后助反接

STITCHANDOVERTURNQTR&HEELCAP1,使用高單車,用14#的針.針距:10針/英寸,邊距:4mmUsethehighpostsingleneedlemachinetostitchwith10needlesperinch&4mmmargin.

2.針車時按印刷線作業,確保4mm邊距一致.Shouldfollowtheprintinglineduringstitchingtomakesurethemargin4mmconsistent.3.鞋面外及後助邊緣平齊車。Theedgeofvamp(L)andheelcapshouldbealigned.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle高單車Highpostsinglerowmachine鞋身內與後助反接

STITCH&OVERTURNTHEQTR(M)&HEELCAPAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle高單車Highpostsinglerowmachine1,使用高單車,用14#的針.針距:10針/英寸,邊距:4mmUsethehighpostsingleneedlemachinetostitchwith10needlesperinch&4mmmargin.

2.針車時按印刷線作業,確保4mm邊距一致.Shouldfollowtheprintinglineduringstitchingtomakesurethemargin4mmconsistent.3.鞋面內及後助的邊緣平齊車。Theedgeofvamp(L)andheelcapshouldbealigned.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.反接處擦膠&捶平

CEMENT&HAMMER擦膠捶平1.在反接處刷膠,一般真皮及人造皮用白水膠,淺色網布用PU冷膠,深色網布用黃膠.Cementontheoverturnedportion,commonlyforleather&syntheticmaterialuselatex,forlightcolormesh(textile)usePUcoldglue,fordarkcolormesh(textile)useyellowglue.2.刷膠要均勻到位,不可有積膠現象.Cementingshouldbeeven&complete,notallowtoamass

.3.調整捶平機,使其高度適中,然後捶平.Adjustthehammermachinetomaketheheightproper,thenhammer.4.操作員需載上耳塞Theoperatorshouldweartheearplugtoavoidearfromharmerbynoiseofmachine.AppliedTooling:膠壺Gluepot捶平機Hammermachine耳塞Earplug貼鞋面2補強

ATTACHVAMP2REINFAppliedTooling:1.貼補強的目的是為了增強拉力或防止打皺及固定形狀…等等,通常有三種貼法,按印刷線貼/平齊配件邊緣貼/底貼2mm.Thepurposeistostrengthenpullorpreventfromwrinkleorkeepthecorrectshape…etc.Commonlytherearethreewaystoattachthereinforcement,onewayattachitasperprintingline,onewayattachittoaligntheedgeofcomponent,theanotheroneattachitlower2mmfromedgeofcomponent.2.為了便於操作,有的補強有上自粘,需確保自粘的品質.沒有上自粘的補強需刷膠後再貼合.Inordertooperateeasily&quickly,makesomereinforcementwithself-adhesive,butmustguaranteeit’squality.Ifitwithoutself–adhesive,needcementthenattach.

膠水壺Gluepot貼鞋面2

ATTACHVAMP2AppliedTooling:膠壺Gluepot1,鞋面擦膠2,鞋面2擦膠3,貼合4,貼合5,貼合6,貼合1.鞋面及鞋面2分別刷766N黃膠,刷膠要均勻,不能積膠.

Separatelycementvamp&vamp2with766Nyellowglueandmakesuretheglueevennotamass.2.膠水稍干後,將鞋面2按印刷線貼在鞋面上.要貼平順,特別是在轉彎處.Afterthegluenaturaldryamoment,attachthevamp2onvampaspertheprintinglineandmakesureattachsmoothlyespeciallyonthecornerportion.貼鞋身補強

ATTACHQTRREINFORCEMENT

膠壺Gluepot1,擦膠2,貼補襁AppliedTooling:1.按印刷線刷766N黃膠,刷膠要均勻,不能積膠.Cementonthebackofqtraspertheprintinglinewith766Nyellowglueandmakesuretheglueevennotamass.2.膠水稍干後,將補強貼上,再用熱壓機壓平.Afterthegluenaturaldryforamoment,attachthereinforcementaspertheprintingline,thenpresswithheatpressingmachine.1,使用高單車,用16#的針.針距:9針/英寸,邊距:1.2mmUsethehighpostsingleneedlemachinetostitchwith9needlesperinch&margin1.2mm

2.針車時確保1.2mm邊距一致,特別是在轉彎處.Makesurethemargin1.2mmconsistentafterstitching,especiallyoncornerportion.3.注意在CAT尾巴處上下反接線要對齊成一直線.Note:Theoverturn-seamshouldbealigntoalineonthetailofcat.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle車鞋面2

ATTACHVAMP2高單車Highpostsinglerowmachine車火腿

STITCHFORMSTIP1,使用高單車,用16#的針.針距:9針/英寸,邊距:1.2mmUsethehighpostsingleneedlemachinetostitchwith9needlesperinch&margin1.2mm

2,按記號點及印刷線針車,弧度要順,邊距大小要均勻.StitchF/Sasperindicatedmarkandprintingline,andmakesureitsmooth&themarginconsistent.3.注意有的型體火腿與鞋身或滾口上裝飾的相對位置要一致.Note:someartshavedécoronqtrorcollar,needmakethedistancebetweenF/Sandthedécorconsistent.4.車線需用20#邦迪線,車火腿時需裝平台.Thethreadis20#Boned.Andneedaddflatboardonthehead.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle高單車Highpostsinglerowmachine車火腿飾線

STITCHFORMSTIPDÉCORLINE1,使用高單車,用16#的針.針距:9針/英寸

Usethehighpostsingleneedlemachinetostitchwith9needlesperinch.2,按印刷線針車,線條要順,且均勻.StitchF/Sdécorlineaspertheprintingline,andmakesureitsmooth&even.3.車線需用40#邦迪線,車火腿時需裝平台.Thethreadis20#Bonded.Andneedaddflatboardonthehead.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle高單車Highpostsinglerowmachine貼鞋面補強2

ATTACHVAMPREINF21.按印刷線貼鞋面補強,為了加強鞋面,使在穿著時以免向前滑動.

Attachthevampreinf2aspertheprintinglinetostrengthenvampportiontopreventthefootfromslippingforwardinwear.2.為了便於操作,有的補強有上自粘,需確保自粘的品質.沒有上自粘的補強需刷膠後再貼合.Inordertooperateeasily&quickly,makesomereinforcementwithself-adhesive,butmustguaranteeit’squality.Ifitwithoutself–adhesive,needcementthenattach.

1,貼助帶補襁12,貼助帶補襁32,貼助帶補襁2貼助帶補強

ATTACHEYESTAYREINF1.助帶處貼補強,以增加助帶處拉力,防緊鞋帶時損壞助帶.It’spurposeforattachingthereinforcementoneyeletstaytostrengthenthepullinweartopreventtheeyeletstayfrombeingbroken.2,助帶補襁1按弧度低貼2.0mm。Attacheyeletstayreinforcement1lower2.0mmthaneyeletstayedge.3,按助帶補襁2/3印刷線貼。Attacheyeletstayreinforcement2/3asperprintingline.鎖後千烏

STITCHHEELZIGZAG1,使用千鳥車,用16#的針.針距:7針/英寸,邊距:2.5mmUsethezigzagmachinetostitchwith7needlesperinch&2.5mmmargin.

2.千鳥不能有落馬和寬窄不一致及重疊的現象.Tostitchzigzagshouldbeconsistent&complete&smooth,notallowtooverlapandjumpstitching.3.千烏起收針位置要倒3-4針.Needbackstitch3-4stitchesonthestart&stopstitchingportion.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle平車FlatbedsewingM/C後助與後耳反接

STITCH&OVERTURNHEELCAP&BACKSTAYAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle高單車Highpostsinglerowmachine1,使用高單車,用14#的針.針距:10針/英寸,邊距:3mmUsethehighpostsingleneedlemachinetostitchwith10needlesperinch&4mmmargin.

2.針車時按記號點作業,確保3mm邊距一致.Shouldfollowthemarkswhenstitchingtomakesurethemargin3mmconsistent.3.反接處擦白水膠並捶平.Cementontheseamportionwithlatexandhammer.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.滾裡與鞋面內裡反接

STITCH&OVERTURNCOLLARLINING&VAMPLININGAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle高單車Highpostsinglerowmachine1,使用高單車,用14#的針.針距:10針/英寸,邊距:5mmUsethehighpostsingleneedlemachinetostitchwith10needlesperinch&5mmmargin.

2.針車時按記號點作業,確保5mm邊距一致.Shouldfollowthemarkswhenstitchingtomakesurethemargin5mmconsistent.3.淺色網布反接處擦PU-100冷膠,深色網布用766N黃膠並捶平.Forlightmesh,cementontheseamportionwithPU-100coldglue;fordarkmesh,dowith766Nyellowglue.Thenhammer.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.車助帶內裡

STITCHEYESTAYLININGAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle高單車Highpostsinglerowmachine1,使用高單車,用14#的針.針距:10針/英寸,邊距:2mmUsethehighpostsingleneedlemachinetostitchwith10needlesperinch&5mmmargin.

2.針車時按記號點及印刷線作業,確保邊距一致及車線圓順.Shouldfollowthemarks&printinglinewhenstitchingtomakesurethemarginconsistent&stitchinglinesmooth.3.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.車滾口內裡及補強帶

STITCHCOLLARLINING&REINFTAPEAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle高單車Highpostsinglerowmachine1,使用高單車,用14#的針.針距:10針/英寸,邊距:2mmUsethehighpostsingleneedlemachinetostitchwith10needlesperinch&2mmmargin.

2.針車時,中心點要對正,弧度處要圓順,特別是後跟雙峰處.Makesuretoalignthecentermarkandguaranteethecurveissmoothespeciallyonthetwopeakportionofbackstay.3.針車時底面線的松緊要適中.Makethethread(upper&bottom)moderate.4.滾口起收針,內外腰要一致.Makesurethestarted&endedstitchingpositionconsistentonmedial&lateralofcollar.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowtipshapeneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.車滾口內裡及補強帶

STITCHCOLLARLINING&REINFTAPEAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle高雙車Highpostdoublerowsmachine1,使用高雙車,用14#的針.針距:9針/英寸,邊距:1.5mmUsethehighpostdoublerowsmachinetostitchwith9needlesperinch&1.5mmmargin.

2.針車時,弧度不能變形,邊距1.5mm大小要一致.中心點要與鞋面中心點對正.Makesuretothemargin1.5mmconsistentandtheshapedon’tdistortandthecentermarkmatchvamp’s.3.針車時底面線的松緊要適中.Makethethread(upper&bottom)moderate.4.針車時,滾裡需接順.Makesurethecollarliningissmoothwhenstitching.5.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowtipshapeneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.固定助帶織帶

STITCHTHEEYESTAYWEBBINGAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle高雙車Highpostdoublerowsmachine1,使用高雙車,用14#的針.針距:9針/英寸,邊距:2mmUsethehighpostdoublerowsmachinetostitchwith9needlesperinch&2mmmargin.

2.穿助帶織帶後,其平齊助帶口,織帶要一致.Theeyeletstaywebbingshouldbealignedtheedgeofeyeletstayandconsistent.3.針車時底面線的松緊要適中.Makethethread(upper&bottom)moderate.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowtipshapeneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.修助帶邊

TRIMMINGTHEEDGEOFEYELETSTAYAppliedTooling:1.平齊皮料的邊緣修,不可看見助帶背裡外露.剪下的碎屑處理干淨。

Trimtheedgeofeyeletstaytomakesurethebackingofeyeletstayinvisible.Andcleanupthechipping.2.修邊時不能把原有的車線修斷并且不能損壞鞋面。Duringtrimmingtheedge,don’tbreakthethreadandtheupper.剪刀Scissor5﹐翻滾里2,擦鞋面膠4,貼泡棉6,摸平3,擦滾里膠1,擦泡棉膠翻滾口內裡INVERTCOLLARLINING1,滾口泡棉刷粉膠,擦滿膠的一面靠滾口內裡,擦半膠的一面靠鞋面.刷膠要均勻,不可積膠.Cementtoplinepaddingwithpowderglue,thatonesizeattachingoncollarliningfullcementandanothersideattachedonupperhalfcement.Cementevenlyandthegluedon’tamasstoapile.2,3.滾口內裡及鞋面後跟擦766N黃膠.Cementthecollarliningandheelportionofupperwith766Nyellow.4.泡棉高貼3mm,中心點對正鞋面後跟中心點.Attachthetoplinepaddinghigher3.0mmthantopedgeofcollarandneedmakethecentermarkalignheel’s.5.翻滾裡,先翻中間固定中心點,再翻兩邊,外翻3mm大小要一致.滾裡下緣要對准記號點,助帶處滾裡與助帶邊緣平齊.Duringinvertingthecollarlining,firstdofromthecenterportiontofixthecenter,thendoonthebothsides.Needmaketheexposedmargin3.0mmconsistentandtheloweredgeofcollarliningalignthemarkofupper.Note:thecollarliningneedalignthetopedgeofeyeletstay.

6.將滾裡摸平順,不能有皺折。Touchthecollarliningsmoothlytoavoidfromwrinkle.AppliedTooling:毛刷Brush膠壺Gluepot翻刀Tipknife噴膠機Spraygluemachine後跟整形Backmolding1,用該型體正確的整型楦,空壓整型網布版的型體可使用相似的楦頭代用.Needusetheproperlasttomold.Mayusethesimilarlastasthesubstituteforthemeshversion.2,整型時,需對准中心點,且不可使滾口內裡打皺.Whenmolding,mustalignthecenterlineoflastanddon’tmakethecollarliningwrinkle.3.整型的形狀要與保持正確楦頭的外觀.Theshapeshouldkeepasthelast’saftermolding.4.網布可用常溫整形,裝康特及人造皮的滾里須用正確的楦頭冷熱整形.Formeshversion,maymoldontheindoortemperatures;Fortheupperwithcounterorcollarliningwithsynthetic,needuseproperlasttomoldviacoolandheatmold.AppliedTooling:Moldingmachine1,噴膠2,貼合貼鞋面和內裡ATTACHVAMP&VAMPLINING1,鞋面及鞋面內裡在指定的部位噴膠.噴膠要均勻,不過太多或太少也不可積膠.Sprayhotmeltontheindicatedportionofbackofvampandvamplining.Makesuretosprayevenly,nottoomuchortoolittleoramasstoapile.2.貼鞋面和鞋面內裡,貼合時內裡要摸平順,不可皺折.Attachvampandvampliningandtouchtheliningsmoothlynotwrinkle.AppliedTooling:

噴膠機Sprayinghotmeltmachine鞋面整型MOLDTHEVAMP1,備好相應的模型,並設定好整形的冷熱溫度,及整型時間,壓力等等.Setupthepropermoldandsetthetemperatureofthecool&heatmoldandtime&pressure…etc2.整型時需對正鞋面中心線點.Mustmakethecenterofvampmatchthemold’s.AppliedTooling:

整形機Moldingmachine助帶沖孔PUNCHTHEEYELETHOLE1,將沖子對准助帶的相應位置,調整好沖孔機,一次到位,不可有重影.Putthepunchontheproperpositionofeyeletstayandsetwellthepunchmachine,thenpunchonlyonetimetoavoidfromdoubleshape.2.沖孔前需查沖子不要變形.Needcheckthepunchifdistortbeforepunching.3.沖子及沖板需經常打臘,以延長其使用壽命.Needoftenwipewaxforthepunch&cut