中英文版滑雪衣做工标准培训课件

1、中英文版滑雪衣做工标准培训课件Table of ContentsSewing Specifications 縫紉說明 Stitching pg. 3 （第三頁） 車線 Tacking pg. 4 固定 Bartacking pg. 5 打結 General Features 一般做工說明 Common Features pg. 6 一般做工說明 Insulations pg. 7 絕緣設置 Shockcord Attachment pg. 8 繩扣做工 Zipper Cover Standards pg. 9 10 拉鏈蓋布標準 Label and Hangtag Placement pg.

2、11 14 標及吊卡的位置 Logo Placement pg. 15 16 Logo 的位置Jacket Features 夾克做工要求 CF Closure pg. 17 前中開口 TriClimate features pg. 18 19 兩件式夾克做工 Hoods pg. 20 24 帽子 Pockets pg. 25 28 口袋 Venting pg. 29 通風處做工 Cuff pg. 30- 31 袖口 Sleeve Articulation pg. 32 袖子 RECCO placement pg. 32 RECCO的位置 Hem Adjustment pg. 33- 35 下

3、擺 Powderskirt pg. 36- 38 下擺擋風片Pant Features 褲子做工要求 CF Closure pg. 39 前中開口 Waistband pg. 40 41 腰頭 Pockets pg. 42 口袋 Vents pg. 43 通風處做工 Knee Articulation pg. 44 膝蓋 Edgeguards / Bindings pg. 46 Linings and Leg Gaitors pg. 45 腳口綁腿力做工 RECCO placement pg. 47 RECCO的位置2022/3/122Stitching Standards: 車線說明Top

4、stitching to be 12 SPI 車線請用12 SPI車線Use Poly Core Thread for garment construction and topstitching unless otherwise indicated.除非特殊說明,衣服縫製請都用POLY 包芯線.Overlock, Flat Lock and Cover stitch to be 12 SPI 拷克，平車及三本車都用 12SPI車線Pre-Stitch and Stay stitch to be 9-11 SPI, depending on the usage. 根據用途,起針和回針用 9-11

5、 SPIAll lining fabric (that can potentially fray) should have its interior raw edges joined with 4 thread safety stitch.所有有可能磨破的裡布,布邊都要用4線拷克拷過Cover stitch to be used on stretch mesh fabric seams. 有彈力的網布縫份用三本車All stretchy fabrics should use 4 thread safety for all join seams. (Cannot use lockstitch a

6、s it will cause popping and open seam.)所有有彈性布的拼合縫份都要用4線拷克.Chain-stitch is not used unless otherwise specified on Construction Details page.沒有特殊說明,做工細則裡的則不使用鎖鏈車. Back tack stitching shall be 3 stitches long for security.為平安考慮，回針至少要有3針長.All thread color to be DTM for all color blocking panels unless o

7、therwise specified.如沒有特殊說明，所有剪接用線應為同布色For non-Gore products use 22mm seam tape for all critical seams. Use 17mm seam tape for all non-critical seams, unless otherwise stated.除非特殊說明,款式的關鍵部位剪接線,使用22mm寬的防水貼條,非關鍵部位剪接線,使用17mm寬的防水貼條Vivian remarks-關鍵部位:上衣:前中/外長/領圍 長褲:前後擋/內外長 非關鍵部位:袖攏及其他剪接線 開發時先按客人規定如有不能貼合或

8、是寬度貼上去有問題要先與客人聯繫. Logo 局部的防水貼條,需提供廠商加寬後長x寬的尺寸,訂購整塊四周圓角的防水貼條,直接熱壓上LogoSeam Seal Taping should be centered over seam stitching. Cross over seams should be re-pressed. 防水貼條要貼在縫份中間，十字重疊處要用機器重複加溫加壓.Bartack use Tex 27 Perma Spun Thread, 42 SPIs, 3/8 length. 打結用Tex 27 Perma 的車線，42SPI,打結長3/8.Sewing Specific

9、ations Sewing Specifications 縫紉說明縫紉說明2022/3/123Tacking Standards: 固定標準For Gore-tex Shell jackets: All linings to be tacked onto shell by Z-liner. Gore-tex款式,所有裡布要用Z-liner固定在表布上Vivian remarks-Z-liner:一種特殊的布種,可用防水膠袋直接貼上去For Non-Gore Shell jackets: All linings to be swag tacked onto shell by stripes of

10、 self shell fabric. 非Gore-tex要使用本布固定表裡布The tacking points are: 表裡固定點位置CB Neck on Taped jackets. Entire neck seam on non-taping garments. 有防水貼條的衣服只需固定于后中領圍，沒有防水貼條的衣服固定于全部領圍線High point shoulders 領肩點Sleeve Caps. (No need for raglan sleeve) 袖肩點拉格蘭袖不用Under armholes 袖籠底端Elbows. (Depending on design)肘部按不同設

11、計而定Lower forearm seam 6 8 from cuff edge. (Depending on design)前臂下端距袖口剪接6 8 按不同設計而定5 7 from hood brim edge at hood run seam. (Depending on design)帽剪接在距帽沿5 7 處按不同設計而定At waist points for styles with free hanging lining. 自由懸垂的裡布固定在腰剪接處All pocket bags should be sewn, tacked, or swag tacked their upper o

12、r functional corners.所有口袋都需縫製或者固定在其上端或角落處Vivian remarks-固定布條須直接與剪接線車合一起,再貼膠條.(固定布條處不需測水壓.) 布料薄:固定布條對折. 布料厚:固定布條單層即可不須對折.Sewing Specifications Sewing Specifications 縫紉細則縫紉細則帽沿往帽中縫份57“處領肩點肩點腋下點肘點(請根據設計)下臂點(請根據設計)腰頭整個後領圍線2022/3/124Sewing SpecificationsSewing Specifications縫紉細則縫紉細則Bartacking Standards:打

13、結標準All pocket openings, flaps, vents and zipper ends shall have bartacks. 所有口袋開口，擋風片，蓋排，透氣孔以及拉鏈兩端都要打結When bartacking an exposed PU zipper, the bartack should be hidden under die cut shell. 當拉鍊為露齒PU拉鏈時，打結需隱藏在大身布下如圖一 Keep bartack exposed when infusion is around the perimeter of the zipper. Be sure to

14、place the bartack as close to the bottom of zipper as possible. 當拉鏈周邊有粘合膠時，打結要外露，而且要盡量靠近拉鏈底端如圖二The bartack dimension to be W 1/16 x L 3/8. The length can be extended to whenever necessary. 3 pass bartack for weak fabrics. 打結尺寸W*H: 1/16 x 3/8, 需要的時候長度可以加長到，防水拉鍊尾端用平車來回車3次加固.圖一 圖二 隱藏打結用在外露式拉鍊外露式打結用在拉鏈四

15、周有貼裝飾膠Vivian remarks-客人建議用平車來回加固3次比打結好)2022/3/125General Features General Features 總體做工要求總體做工要求Common Features:總體做工要求All eyelets and grommets should be reinforced by shell fabric or washer, whichever most suitable.合適的時候，所有G眼需用本布或塑膠墊片加強.(eyelet & gromment都是指G眼)Grommet size 4.2 mm with single 2.5 mm s

16、hockcord. 4.2mm(應是指內徑)的G眼使用2.5mm的繩. Grommet size 5.6 mm with single 3 mm shockcord or with double 2.5 mm shockcords. 5.6mm的G眼使用3mm的繩. 或雙倍2.5mm 寬的繩.(shochcords =繩的統稱)If applicable, use appropriate sized washer with metal snaps for satisfactory performance. 為運動時的平安考慮,如果可行的話把大小合適的金屬四合釦和塑膠墊片一起使用.All but

17、tonholes should be reinforced by interlining. 所有鎖眼要用襯加強.All grossgrain tapes, drawcords, webbing and elastics should have heat cut ends. 所有綢緞類織帶和鬆緊帶都要用熱切.All shockcord tunnels should be lined with a taffeta tunnel to allow the shockcord to run smoothly. See sketch on page 8.有shockcord的繩孔道都需多家層taffet

18、a在孔道內,讓使使用者在使用繩子時能控制自如.(可參考第8頁)Vivian remarks-客人表示在開發時可先不加taffeta,等客人comments再說.All shockcords settings shall be looped and wrapped by taffeta extension and only the fabric will be attached with stitch or bartack. (For hood, and hem drawcord). See sketch on page 8.所有Shockcord繩孔道,在壓線或打結後完成寬均為1/2“(在帽子

19、及下擺也是)(可參考第8頁)Cordlocks shall be tied down with grossgrain ribbon and bartacked, unless otherwise specified.沒有特殊說明彈簧扣都要用布條固定尾端並打結All pocket bags should be sewn, tacked or swag tacked at their upper or functional corners. Hand pocket should be tacked to CF seams but not to hem.所有口袋需縫製或固定在其上端或功能處。手口袋只

20、需固定在前中處,腰頭或下擺不需固定All pocket bags should have shell facings on both layers for waterproofness. 為達到防水的效果，口袋上下兩層都要用本布的貼邊All Velcro corners to be trimmed away so corners are rounded. See sketch.所有粘扣袋四周都要圓形的, 如圖所示.Zippers set into clean finish faced window, from flap seam to allow seam taping. 拉鏈內邊壓線距蓋片壓

21、線 寬以便貼防水貼條.All Coil and Vislon zippers should be centered with appropriate amount of zipper tape exposed to allow slider to function easily.所有尼龍塑鋼拉鏈都要位于開口的正中處，以便拉頭能活動自如 Full draft flap at CF has at least 1 vertical quilt line placed from flap setting.前中全擋風片至少要有一條豎直的壓線，距擋風片縫份1/4Please see separate do

22、cument for TNF Seam Sealing Requirements. TNF 的貼合要求請看另外的材料 Vivian remarks-已跟客人澄清沒有這份文件2022/3/126General FeaturesGeneral Features總體做工要求總體做工要求INSULATED JACKETS 隔熱夾克All insulations must be quilted onto lining at maximum 6 space unless they are already attached to shell per design.A layer of fiber proof

23、 taffeta or baffle to be add between tricot pocket bags and insulation.All insulations shall be spread out and relax overnight before cut.DOWN JACKETS鴨絨衣All down chambers should be filled following approved down schedule.所有鴨絨衣內要填入符合要求的鴨絨All down chamber should use down proof material.所有鴨絨衣要用防止鴨絨外露的布

24、料If the shell is used as down chamber and the shell is not down proof, then down proof baffle should be used.如果某種不能防止鴨絨外露的布被用于鴨絨衣的大身布，那么就要用到防鴨絨露出的隔層When using Light colored fabrics that might cause a see-thru problem to occur with the down, you must use Guann Lin Off-white colored baffle. All other

25、down products use factory sourced baffle.大身布為淺色時，為防止色透能看到鴨絨，必須用非白色的Guann Lin 的隔層。其他用到的隔層有成衣廠自己選擇#9 carbonated ball point needle is recommended for down garment sewing. 鴨絨衣的縫製建議用#9 號圓頭炭針Factory must calculate correct fabric shrinkage to match down filling power.成衣廠需正確計算因填鴨絨導致的多用的布量2022/3/127附加的内部信息附加

26、的内部信息2022/3/128General Features General Features 總體做工要求總體做工要求Zipper Cover Standards:拉鏈蓋片做工標準Zipper cover length = 3/8“. 拉鏈蓋片長為3/8Regular Coil Zippers (set under flap) do not get zipper covers. 在口袋蓋片下的常見的尼龍拉鏈不用拉連蓋片.Reverse Coil Zippers get bottom zipper cover only. (To cover the sharp metal piece)反齒尼

27、龍拉鏈只用下拉鏈蓋片蓋住金屬片Pit Zippers should have top and bottom zipper covers regardless of the whether zipper is Coil or Reversed. (Unless zipper is bonded, then there are no zipper covers.)腋拉不管是尼龍還是反齒都要用上下蓋片如果拉鏈是貼和的，則不用拉鏈蓋片Internal Pockets: No zipper covers are needed on any internal zippers. 內口袋所有內口袋都不用拉鏈蓋

28、片常規拉鍊無須拉鍊蓋片金屬下止反齒拉鍊須加下蓋片蓋住拉鍊下止,以防下止爪子刮傷人表布蓋片2022/3/129General Features General Features 一般做工要求一般做工要求Zipper Covers vs. Zipper Garage:拉鏈蓋片和拉鏈車庫Zipper Covers are different from Zipper Garages.拉鏈蓋片和拉鏈車庫不同Zipper covers simply cover the metal zipper stopper. While zipper garages act as a “garage for the s

29、lider to sit under. 拉鏈蓋片只是蓋住拉鏈的金屬下止，而拉鏈車庫是用來放置拉頭的。Vivian remarks-車庫的立體份須能讓拉頭輕鬆放入Zipper Garages are called out in the sketch and construction details page. 拉鏈車庫在細節做工圖上另作描述Exposed, welded PU Zippers should have an internal semi-circle patch to cover top and bottom zipper ends, 1/16 1/8 above the hidde

30、n bartack.外露的PU貼和的拉鏈上下止內應該有一個半圓形布貼片來蓋住 上下頂端。在隱藏的打結在距離拉鏈邊緣上1/16 1/8 處。車庫(立體)蓋片(平的)3/8寬表布蓋片需蓋住整個金屬下止外露式pu貼合拉鍊貼合拉鍊,上下端內部加補強片2022/3/1210General FeaturesGeneral Features一般做工要求一般做工要求Label Placement: See Sketch pgs 12, 13, 14 標的位置參見頁的圖Main label at CB neck 主標車在后領中2L Jackets have Care Label at Left side sea

31、m 5 from bottom hem edge. 2L夾克的警示標,車在左前外側距下擺 5處3L Jackets have Care Label under powderskirt, set into seam where powderskirt taffeta meets mesh panel. 5 from Left CF. 3L的衣服警示標在擋風下擺下，tafetta 布和網布的剪接線處。距左前中5。Vivian remarks - 2L & 3L 都是指布,只是布本身的層數區分 2L=本布+膠 3L=本布+膠+網布Pants have Care Label at front wais

32、tband on the right side 5 from CF. 褲子的警示標車在前腰頭右邊距前中5處Media Label (woven or heat transfer) is 1 below neckline on wearers Left CF facing. 耳機標平織或熱轉印車在穿者左前內貼上領圍線下 1處.Goggle Pocket Label (woven or heat transfer) is 11 below neckline on wearers Right CF Facing. 護目鏡口袋標平織或熱轉印車在穿者右前內貼上領圍線下 11處.Soft Shell Ja

33、ckets and Pants have loop main label CB neck / waistband. Care label is placed under main label.軟料緊身夾克或褲子的環形主標車在后中領圍或腰頭。警示標車在主標下Hangtag Placement :吊卡位置Hangtags are located at Left Hand pocket swift tacked through slider for jackets and bottoms.吊卡穿在左手口袋 拉鏈拉頭中間的孔上。 2022/3/1211Label PlacementLabel Plac

34、ement11/2寬前內貼護目鏡標位於內領圍線下11“處耳機標位於內領圍線下1“處洗標位於內下擺上5“處本布掛耳長 3“ x 5/16 寬完成中間間距1“1/4寬主標位於內領圍線下1“1/22022/3/1212Label PlacementLabel PlacementSoft Shell Jacket警告標位於內下擺上 5“ 處本布掛耳長 3“ x 5/16 寬完成中間間距1“1/4寬2022/3/1213Label PlacementLabel PlacementPatch on LabelLoop Label本布掛耳長 3“ x 5/16 寬完成中間間距1“1/4寬主標位於內腰頭下11

35、/2處本布掛耳長 3“ x 5/16 寬完成中間間距1“1/4寬洗標距內前擋5“處警告標距內前擋5“處2022/3/1214General Features General Features 一般做工要求一般做工要求Logo Placement: Logo 位置(量到Logo上下居中處)Tops General Standards (depending on styling) :上衣的一般做工要求以款式而定TNF Embroidery or Heat Transfer is placed at Front Left Chest and Back Right Shoulder. If there

36、s a yoke, then placement is 1 above or below yoke seam. TNF 的繡花或熱轉印在左前胸和右后肩。如果有約克，則在約克縫份上或下 11/2處。For Ms: use TGZ1 (X-Large logo) 男式 大身布用TGZ1加大的logoFront logo is placed 4 from CF and 6 from HPS 前片logo 距前中 4 ，距肩頂點 6 Back logo is placed 5 from CB and 6 from HPS 后片logo 距后中 5，距肩頂點 6For Ws: Shell use TGY

37、7 (Large logo) 女式大身布用TGY7 大的logoFront logo is placed 4 from CF and 5 from HPS 前片logo 距前中 4 ，距肩頂點 5 Back logo is plaved 4 from CB and 5 from HPS 后片logo 距后中 4 ，距肩頂點 5For Ws: Softshell & liner jacket use TGY8 (Medium logo)女式緊身或內夾克用TGY8中號logoSame placement as Shell (above)和上邊一項相同的位置Fabric Embroidery or

38、Heat Transfer centered on Left Sleeve unless otherwise specified.除非有特殊說明，繡花或熱轉印都位在左袖中間位置For Ws: 3 above cuff edge. 女款:位於距袖口邊緣 3處For Ms: 4 above cuff edge 男款:位於距袖口邊緣 4處Down Fill Embroidery or Heat Transfer centered on Left sleeve unless otherwise specified.除非有特殊說明，鴨絨繡花或熱轉印在左袖中間位置For Ws: 3 above cuff

39、edge.女款:位於距袖口邊緣 3處For Ms: 4 above cuff edge男款:位於距袖口邊緣 4處If there are Fabric and Down Fill embroideries, the Down Fill will be 1 below the Fabric.如有布和鴨絨繡花，鴨絨應在布下1處Summit Series logo is centered on Left Bicep Summit Series logo 在左臂圍中間Segment Series logo: Designers Choice Segment Series logo 設計師自己決定REC

40、CO embroidery (for hidden device) is placed 3 above cuff edge on the right sleeve探測標繡花針對隱藏的儀器位于右袖袖口剪接3處2022/3/1215General FeaturesGeneral Features一般做工要求一般做工要求Logo Placement: logo 位置Bottoms General Standard (depending on styling) 下裝 一般做工細則根據款式而定TNF Embroidery or Heat Transfer Front Left Knee and Back

41、 Lower Right Leg TNF的繡花或熱轉印在左前膝和右后下腿處For Ms: 男式Logo is placed 2 from outseam to the center of TNF logo Logo 位于從外長到TNF logo中間 2 處Front logo is placed 13 from Hem if below knee dart and 16 from Hem if above knee darts (unless otherwise specified)前logo如果在膝部褶之下，則位于 位于腳口之上 13 處，如果在膝部褶之上，則為于下 腳口之上 16Back

42、logo is placed 5 from Hem 后logo 距腳口 5For Ws: 女式Logo is placed 2 from outseam to the center of TNF logo Logo 位于從外長到TNF logo中間 2 處Front logo is placed 17 1/2 from Hem (unless otherwise specified) 沒有特殊說明,前logo距下腳口 17 1/2 Back logo is placed 4 1/2 from Hem 后logo 距下腳口 4 1/2 Fabric Embroidery or Heat Tran

43、sfer centered on Left Hip panel, below WB and 1 from out seam to center of TNF logo 布繡花或熱轉印在左臀剪接中間，腰頭下 ，從外長到TNF logo中間 1 處Segment Series: Designers Choice Segment Series由設計師決定RECCO embroidery (for hidden device) is placed 1/2 below Recco device placement探測標繡花針對隱藏的儀器位于腰頭下1/2 ，距外長 1 Logo距腰下1/2“,距外長11/

44、42022/3/1216Jacket Features Jacket Features 夾克一般做工要求夾克一般做工要求CF Closure: 前中門襟開口Mens and Womens jackets close Left over Right. 男式和女式都是左邊蓋住右邊For Jackets with flaps, hidden CF zipper set from collar edge and finishes 1 above hem.有擋風片的夾克,其隱藏的前拉要在低于前中開口領圍開始，下擺上1處結束Exposed CF Zippers set from collar edge a

45、nd finishes even with hem. 前中露齒拉鏈低于領 開始，齊下擺結束Velcro closure: Loop set to placket facing and Hook set to body.粘扣帶毛面在門襟上，勾面在大身上Top collar velcro placed below collar edge 粘扣帶在領上圍下 開始CF Placket velcro placed from neck seam 前中開口粘扣帶在領下圍下處開始距領圍線1/4“距領沿1/4“粘扣帶毛面粘扣帶勾面隱藏式前拉外露式前拉前中粘扣帶位置2022/3/1217Jacket Featur

46、esJacket Features夾克一般做工要求夾克一般做工要求Zip-In Liner TriClimate Features 兩件式夾克表裡固定Shell Jacket inner CF Zipper Setting Guidelines:外夾克上的內夾克前拉放置的指導方針3 up from neckline seam for 3 to 3 collar height of Liner Jacket. 領高為3 to 3 時，內夾克拉鏈在領圍線上3 開始車。Additional CF Facing 3/4“ between the Shell Zipper and Zip-In Zipp

47、ers在內夾克和外夾克的拉鏈中間加間距3/4“寬的前內貼2 Chinguards cover inner CF zipper.雙片式下顎擋風片需蓋住內件前拉Liner Jacket CF Zipper should be a Reverse Slider內夾克拉鏈的應該是用反轉拉頭下顎擋風片內前拉外前拉2022/3/1218Jacket FeaturesJacket Features夾克一般做工夾克一般做工3-Point System for TriClimates 兩件式夾克的表裡固定Liner Jacket snaps into Shell Jkt at 3 points: CB neck

48、 and Cuffs 表裡夾克在後領中及左右袖口三處用扣子固定Shell Jacket CB Neck lining has 18L Snap Tab and Liner Jacket has CB Neck Spaghetti Loop at exterior 外夾克后領內有一18L的扣子，內夾克后領外有一個環。Shell Jacket Cuffs back lining has Elastic Loops and Liner Jacket Cuffs back exterior have 18L Snap Tabs.外夾克兩個袖口內側有鬆緊環，內夾克袖口外側有18L的扣子。後中四合扣為調整

49、用鬆緊掛耳在外夾克上,供內夾克與外夾克固定起用2寬袖口貼邊外夾克左袖口貼邊四合扣絆車在內夾克袖口縫份21/2為雙摺長度 拉環1高處加打結外夾克後領圍縫線內夾克後領圍縫線內夾克右後袖口距外長1“內夾克右後袖口2022/3/1219Jacket FeaturesJacket Features夾克一般做工夾克一般做工Hoods: See sketches P. 21 23 帽子做工如21 23 頁圖Rainguard tunnel is set between Hood facing and Lining Seams. Rainguard tunnel length extends to top c

50、ollar edge. There is a single grommet set on hood facing. Hood shockcord exits points will differ upon hood styles.防水貼條通道在帽貼邊與裡布縫份中間，通道要延伸到領上緣。帽貼處兩邊各有一個雞眼。Hood shockcord inside rainguard tunnel should be tacked 5 apart at CF.帽子繩扣在防水貼條通道裡，距帽前中5處固定 Vivian remarks-前帽中帽繩是平擺不調節的Volume Adjuster (at CB hoo

51、d) 調節器帽子后中部位Drawcord is set 5 from CF top into brim facing .棉繩在中間頂點左右5處打結固定Shock cord exits single grommet and loops through Cordlock and Cordpull.腰繩從雞眼穿出，再透過繩扣。 CB Elastic Tunnel 后中鬆緊通道Elastic set between Center Panel seams from taffeta tunnel and secured at ends only with bartacks. 鬆緊在帽中剪接和通道中間，兩端

52、打結固定。Vivian remarks-客人建議加平車回針即可,以防布料太薄層數太多,打結後造成布料破損後帽中鬆緊帶孔道後帽中鬆緊帶孔道2022/3/1220Jacket FeaturesJacket FeaturesEZ Detachable Hood: High End3寬開口外視圖蓋片蓋住拉鍊表布延伸拉鍊裡布構造圖# TWU1 用法說明帽邊緣加上#TUW1裝置延伸進入帽子TAFFETA 防雨孔道繩扣織帶耳穿過繩扣然後與大身一起打結鬆緊帶式防雨孔道透視圖繩扣打結保證繩扣可以穿過固定Vivian remarks-此固定點應在耳朵上方,以防調節後帽鬆緊繩時會將耳朵扯住2022/3/1221Ja

53、cket FeaturesJacket FeaturesEZ Detachable Hood: Low End織帶繩扣G眼距離縫份1“外繩孔道後帽中蓋片11/2高繩扣2022/3/1222Jacket FeaturesJacket FeaturesDropped Hood: High End 3L外帽放下帽沿 2“3/4寬防雨遮片從邊緣到接線是13/4寬防雨遮片從邊緣到接線是1寬Taffeta 1/2“1寬針織孔道貼合2022/3/1223Fixed Hood: Low EndJacket FeaturesJacket Features繩尾夾2022/3/1224Jacket Features

54、Jacket Features夾克一般做工夾克一般做工Pockets 口袋做工Brushed Tricot pocket bags have slick side to palm and brushed side to knuckle.刷毛布口袋，光的一面為手心袋布,毛的一面為手背袋布.All pocket bags should be sewn, tacked or swag tagged at their upper or functional corners and should not be sewn into the hem unless specified. 所有口袋需縫紉或固定到

55、其上端或角落處，沒有特殊說明，不能縫到腰頭和下擺Zipper up to close position unless otherwise specified. 沒有特殊說明，拉鏈向上拉是關閉的Zippers set into clean finish faced window, from flap seam to allow seam taping. See Fig. 1.拉鏈在包光處理蓋片下面，距剪接縫份 處 ，以便固定拉布。 如圖1Pocket flap velcro: Hook is set to body and Loop is set to flap. See Fig. 2. 口袋處

56、粘扣袋毛面在蓋片，勾面在大身上。如圖2In Right hand pocket, the ticket clip is placed 1 from opening with grossgrain ribbon, 3 finished length. See Fig. 3.右手口袋裡車票夾在 距開口1處並加緞布織帶，上端打結固定，完成長度為3“。如圖3。Fig. 3 :Ticket Clip車票夾Fig. 1: Zipper setting 拉鏈做工Fig. 2:Pocket Flap 袋蓋拉鍊至少延伸1/41/2供縫製粘扣帶勾面放置在蓋片上粘扣帶毛面放置在口袋開口2022/3/1225Jack

57、et FeaturesJacket Features夾克一般做工夾克一般做工Pockets 口袋做工Bicep and wrist pocket bag depth = 4 手臂口袋及腕口袋完成深4Wrist pocket had goggle cloth attachment. See sketch.下臂口袋上有擦淨布附在上面 如圖所示。放置於距口袋開口1“上端縫份處3/8寬織帶,對折完成長3“打結寬織帶,單層完成長1/2“邊緣用密拷擦鏡布2022/3/1226Jacket FeaturesJacket Features夾克一般做工夾克一般做工Pockets 口袋做工Google Pocke

58、t height is 6 at CF and 9 at the side seam. Width is sane as jacket. Google口袋在前中剪接處長6，在外長剪接處長9When sewing binding to mesh pocket, make sure to adjust tension of machine so that lockstitch does not pop when opening of pocket is stretched. 當在網布口袋上加包邊時,務必調好機器針距以確保在拉伸時線不被拉斷.松緊包邊布拉伸網布外長前中接縫線6“長寬到衣服的邊緣202

59、2/3/1227Jacket Features Jacket Features 夾克一般做工夾克一般做工Pockets 口袋做工Hidden Napoleon pocket is positioned at wearers Left Front Lining, under the wind flap. See Sketch.隱藏式拿破崙口袋在穿者左側裡布前，擋風片下。如圖所示。Internal Security Pocket is a patched on pocket, positioned at wearers Left chest.內部平安口袋為貼片口袋，在穿者左胸處All MP3 po

60、ckets are set at a 45 degree angle for easy access. 為方便手進出，所有MP3口袋要有45度的彎曲度Vivian remarks-與客人討論後決定,傾斜45度太斜口袋只需傾斜30度即可.Hidden Napoleon pocket at Wearers Left Chest.(Under CF Placket) 隱藏式拿破崙口袋在穿者左胸(位於前中擋風片下方)外夾克內胸袋網布內里內胸袋蓋片車死3邊,只有下端是可打開的打結 毛面袋口邊緣 勾面內夾克內胸袋3/8寬鬆緊G眼或鎖眼Vivian remarks-般鬆緊G眼為3/8寬x1長(鎖眼完開口須與