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1、Unit4牛津Therearecertainthingsintheworldthataresopraiseworthythatitseemsaneedless,indeedanalmostlaughablethingtopraisethem;suchthingsareloveandfriendship,foodandsleep,springandsummer;suchthings,too,arethewisestbooks,thegreatestpictures,thenoblestcities.ButforallthatImeantotryandmakealittlehymninprosei

2、nhonourofOxford,acityIhaveseenbutseldom,andwhichyetappearstomeoneofthemostbeautifulthingsintheworld.此世间确有诸多凡物,它们本身便是值得人们去品味和赞誉的,譬如说爱情和友谊、美食和睡梦、春色和夏日,还有如那些注满了智慧的书卷、注满了心血的画作和注满了圣意的城邦。也许对于这些凡物而言,再多的赞誉已无非是陈词滥调,荒唐可笑的,但我之所以还是想要对上述这些事物品味、赞誉一番,都是为了向牛津城表示我的敬意。|牛津城对我来说,就是这世间极其罕见,又最为美丽的地方之一。Idonotwishtosingleo

3、utparticularbuildings,buttopraisethewholeeffectoftheplace,suchasitseemedtomeonadayofbrightsunandcoolair,whenIwanderedhourafterhouramongthestreets,bewilderedandalmostintoxicatedwithbeauty,feelingasapoormanmightwhohaspinchedallhislife,andmadethemostofsinglecoins,andwhoisbroughtintothepreseneeofaheapof

4、piled-upgold,andtoldthatitisallhisown.我并不想单独从牛津城里遴选出一些建筑来赞誉;我想要赞誉的是这块土地上所映射出的一种整体效果。这种效果在我看来,就好比是在一个阳光明媚、天气清爽的日子里,一连花上几个小时,徜徉在牛津城的街道上,痴迷、甚至是沉醉于这番美景之中。这感觉就犹如是把一位穷得一辈子衣衫褴褛、靠一角一分过日子的人带到一堆金矿旁,然后告诉他,这些财富都已归他所有。IhaveseenitsaidinfoolishbooksthatitisamisfortunetoOxfordthatsomanyofthebuildingshavebeenbuiltou

5、tofsoperishableaveinofstone.Itisindeedamisfortuneinonerespect,thatittemptsmenofdullandprecisemindstorestoreandreplacebuildingsofincomparablegrace,becausetheiroutlineissoexquisitelyblurredbytimeanddecay.Iremembermyself,asachild,visitingOxford,andthinkingthatsomeofthebuildingswerealmostshamefullyruino

6、usofaspect;nowthatIamwiserIknowthatwehaveinthesebatteredandfrettedpalace-frontsakindofbeautythatfillsthemindwithalmostdespairingsenseofloveliness,tilltheheartacheswithgratitude,andthrillswiththedesiretoproclaimthegloryofthesightaloud.我曾在一些荒谬、无理的书里读到说,牛津城里如此之多的建筑都用易被腐蚀、布满裂纹的砖石砌成,这简直就是一场灾难。从某种角度来说,这倒确

7、实是一场灾难,因为随着时间的流逝,用这种砖石砌成的建筑会渐渐破败,建筑的轮廓会很明显地变得七零八落,这便会惹得那些脑袋不灵活的笨家伙们想着整修或重建这些与牛津城魅力格格不入的破玩意儿”记得在我儿时游访牛津城时,我也曾这么想一一这些建筑如此破旧不堪,几乎都是见不得人了;可现在,随着我年数和阅历的增益,我才知道在那些破旧不堪、磨坏受损的殿堂式房子里,蕴藏着一种别样的魅力。这种魅力乍看上去真是令人几近绝望,直到人们对这壮观之景开始心生感激时,才会猛地萌发出一种要高声赞誉这股魅力的念头。Theseblack-frontedblisteredfacades,sothreatening,sosombre,

8、yetscreeningsobrightandclearacurrentoflife;withthetendergreenofbuddingspringtrees,chestnutsfullofsilveryspires,glossy-leavedcreepersclinging,withtinyhands,tocorniceandparapet,givesurelythesharpestandmostdelicatesensethatitispossibletoconceiveofthecontrastonwhichtheesseneeofsomuchbeautydepends.Topass

9、throughoneofthesedarkandsmoke-stainedcourts,witheverylinemellowedandharmonised,asifithadgrownupsooutoftheearth;tofindoneselfinasunnypleasaunce,carpetedwithvelvetturf,andsetthickwithflowers,makesthespiritsighwithdelight.牛津大学城里这些满目苍夷、发黑起泡的建筑,乍看上去是如此地阴沉、昏暗,其实也映射出着一番光鲜、清新的生命力一一树木在春天冒出了绿叶嫩枝,栗子树上窜满了毛茸茸的幼叶

10、,叶面光亮的爬山虎将它无数细小的藤蔓吸在了建筑的檐口和挡墙上。这便无疑给了人们一种极为强烈又相当细腻的生命感,让人构想出一副融此美景于一体、反差鲜明的画面。随意穿过校园里的那些阴暗、黝黑的院子,院子的墙角线既沉稳又润和,就仿佛是从地下窜出来似的;再找个阳光明媚的日子,到那铺满绒草、缀满繁花的庭子里去,人的一呼一吸之间都能透射出内心中的愉悦之情。那些高大的门柱可是这世上其他地方看不到的,门柱的顶部嵌有一块纹章,细长的爬山虎藤蔓舒展地缠在门柱间的铁格栅上,真是惹人喜爱。Nowhereintheworldcanoneseesuchathingasthosegreatgate-piers,withac

11、ognisancea-top,withagrilleofiron-workbetweenthem,allsweetlyentwinedwithsomeslimvagrantcreeper,thatgiveaglimpseandahintnomoreofafairy-landofshelterandfountainswithin.Ihaveseensuchpalacesstandinquietandstatelyparks,asold,asmajestic,asfinelyproportionedasthebuildingsofOxford;buttheveryblacknessofthecit

12、yair,andthedriftingsmokeofthetown,givesthataddedtouchofgrimnessandmysterythatthecountryairscannotcommunicate.透过那些铁格栅,便可略微瞥见一一仅仅是可以略微瞥见一一那里面如仙境般的屋舍和喷泉。这样的建筑,我倒是在一些庄重而寂静的庭院里看到过,那些建筑也是破旧不堪,但却相当高贵,和牛津大学城里的这些建筑就好像是一个模子里刻出来似的。但是,这儿校园里昏昏沉沉的气息,和镇上一屡一屡的炊烟,给这里增添了一股乡村庭院里找不到的敬畏感和神秘感。Andevenfairersightsarecontai

13、nedwithin;thosepanelled,dark-roofedhalls,withtheirarrayofportraitsgravelyandintentlyregardingthestrangers;thechapels,withtheirsplendidclassicalscreensandstalls,richanddimwithancientglass.Thetowers,domes,andsteeples;andallsetnotinamereparadiseoflawnsandglades,butintheveryheartofacity,itselffullofquai

14、ntandancienthouses,butbusywithalltheactivityofabriskandprosperoustown;therebyagaingivingthestrongandsatisfyingsenseofcontrast,thesenseofeagerandevery-daycaresandpleasures,sidebysidewiththesesecludedhavensofpeace,thecourtsandcloister,wheremenmayyetlivealifeofgentlethoughtandquietcontemplation,untroub

15、led,nay,evenstimulated,bythepreseneeofabustlinglifesonearathand,whichyetmaynotintrudeupontheolderdream.而牛津大学城里其实还蕴藏着更为悦目的景象一一那些黑顶的豪华大厅里整齐地陈放着大量人像画,那画里的人似乎正认真又专心地打量着来客;小教堂的围屏和长凳精致而古雅,五彩的玻璃使里面看上去既昏暗又华丽。还有那塔楼、穹顶和教堂尖顶等,好像都不仅仅是矗立在这校园里天堂般的草坪和林地上,也矗立在整座牛津城的中心。牛津城里也全是些别致又古老的房屋,但忙忙碌碌的城里人,使这里多了一份生机勃勃、繁荣兴旺的景象,

16、又给人们留下了一副强烈却美好的反差印象。那四处静谧的港湾、天井和修道院,可使来客热切地感受到人们日常生活中的忧虑和愉悦。在这儿过日子的居民,不受世俗的侵扰,他们常常会想着什么东西,静静地沉思,又亦或是受到那咫尺间喧嚣与繁华的启发,可那喧嚣和繁华却不会侵扰他们重温旧梦。Idonotknowwhethermytasteisentirelytrustworthy,butIconfessthatIfindtheItalianateandclassicalbuildingsofOxfordfinerthantheGothicbuildings.TheGothicbuildingsarequainter,

17、perhaps,abouttheclassicalpicturesque,butthereisanairofsolemnpompandsoberdignityabouttheclassicalbuildingsthatharmonisesbetterwiththesenseofwealthandgravesecuritythatissocharacteristicoftheplace.我不知道自己的鉴赏能力是不是完全地可靠,但坦白地说,我觉得牛津城里意大利风格和古典风格的建筑要比哥特式风格的建筑好看。哥特式建筑的样子看上去更古雅,或许还更别致,可是古典风格的建筑散发着一番庄重又壮丽的气质,这种

18、气质与这片土地上特有的华贵和沉稳更好地融为了一体。TheGothicbuildingsseemasurvival,andhavethusamoreromanticinterest,amorepoeticalkindofassociation.Buttheclassicalporticosandfacadesseemtopossessanoblerdignity,andtoprovideamoreappropriatesettingformodernOxford;becausethespiritofOxfordismorethespiritoftheRenaissaneethanthespiri

19、toftheSchoolmen;andpersonallyIpreferthatecclesiasticismshouldbemoreofaflavourthanatemper;SchoolmenImeanthatthoughIrejoicetothinkthatsoberecclesiasticalinfluencescontributeaseriousgracetothelifeofOxford,yetIamgladtofeelthatthespiritoftheplaceisliberalratherthanecclesiastical.哥特式建筑已所剩无几,故而透着一股更为传奇和诗意的

20、色彩,而古典风格建筑的门廊和外立面却看似更为堂皇,为现代牛津创造了一副更为贴切的布景一一因为相较于腐朽、封建的经院教条风气,现代的牛津精神更贴近于强调个人、精巧新奇的文艺复兴精神,而且即使是有教条主义,我也希望其对于牛津精神更多地是一种补充,而不是一种支配。我的意思是,尽管经院风气那源于基督教会的神圣影响力能给牛津带来上帝的恩典一一这让我感到高兴,但我更乐意去感受牛津精神变得自由又开明,而不是严格恪守于教会。SuchtracesasoneseesinthechapelsoftheOxfordMovement,intheshapeofpaltrystainedglass,starredrered

21、oses,modernGothicwoodwork,wouldbepurelydeplorablefromtheartisticpointofview,iftheydidnotpossessahistoricalinterest.Theyspeakofinterrupteddevelopment,anattempttoputbacktheshadowonthedial,toreturntoanarrowerandmorerigidtone,toputoldwineintonewbottles,whichbetraysawantofconfidenceintheexpansivepowerofG

22、od.Ihatewithadeep-seatedhatredallsuchattemptstobindandconfinetherisingtideofthought.Iwanttoseereligionvitalandnotformal,elasticandnotcrampedbyprecedentandtradition.AndthusIlovetoseeworshipenshrinedinnobleclassicalbuildings,whichseemtometospeakofadesiretoinfusetheintellectualspiritofGreece,thedignifi

23、edimperialismofRomeintothemoretimidandsecludedecclesiasticallife,makingitfuller,larger,morefree,moredeliberate.牛津精神的这种发展特点,正是人们可以从十九世纪牛津运动时代留下的小教堂中,那小型的花窗玻璃、星星点点的供坛背壁和现代哥特式木工中体会得出的。如果这些玻璃、背壁和木工背后没有丁点文化历史可寻,单单是要从美术角度去品鉴,那可就是糟糕透顶的了它们所渗透的正是一种断断续续的历史发展过程,这就好比是尝试将拨号转盘倒着转回去,或回归到前人一本正经的说话腔调,不过是使陈酒换上新瓶。这背叛了

24、人类在上帝广泛支配下应当谦卑、恭顺的教会道义,可我压心底里痛恨一切限制与制约新兴思想萌发的企图,我所想要看见的宗教是那种富有生机而不拘泥、擅于变通而不受惯例和传统阻碍的宗教,所以,我希望看到宗教信仰仅仅是被放在那些堂皇的古典风格建筑中供人祀奉。这在我看来,才表达了一种要在那较收敛和隐蔽的经院风气中注入古希腊智慧文明和古罗马高贵势力的愿望,以使那经院风气更完整、更宏大、更自由、也更谨慎。Butevenapartfromthebuildings,whichareafterallbutthebodyoftheplace,thesoulofOxford,itsinnerspirit,iswhatlen

25、dsititssatisfyingcharm.Ontheonehand,itgivesthesenseofthedignityoftheintellect;onereflectsthatherecanbelivedlivesofstatelysimplicity,ofhighenthusiasm,apartfrompersonalwealth,andyetsurroundedbyenoughofseemlydignitytogivelifethecharmofgraveorderandquietsolemnity.Hereareopportunitiesforpeacefulandcongen

26、ialwork,tothesoundofmellodiousbells;uninterruptedhours,asmuchsocietyofasimplekindasamancandesire,andthewholewithabackgroundofexquisitebuildingsandrichgardens.但建筑毕竟只是牛津的躯壳,除去这建筑,同样可令人心满意足的牛津魅力源于它的灵魂,或者说,是牛津内在的精神。这种精神在一方面使智者获得了一种被尊重的感受。在这里,人们会感到生活里所有的不仅仅是个人的财富,还有从容的简适和高涨的热情,以及处处都有的尊严感,这种得体的尊严感使这里秩序森严、

27、氛围庄重。人们在此可以安安静静、愉快舒适地工作,听着美妙的钟声,看着远处精致典雅的建筑和姹紫嫣红的花园,一连几个小时都不会受到打扰这正是人们所能向往的一种简简单单的人际社会。Andthen,too,thereisthetideofyouthfullifethatfloodseverycorneroftheplace.Itisanendlesspleasuretoseethetroopsofslimandalertyoungfigures,fullofenjoymentandlife,withallthebestgiftsoflife,health,work,amusement,society,

28、friendship,lyingreadytotheirhand.Thesenseofthisbeatingandthrillingpulseoflifecirculatingthroughthesesombreandsplendidbuildingsiswhatgivestheplaceitsinnerglow;thislifefullofhope,ofsensation,ofemotion,notyetshadowedordisillusionedorweary,seemstobeasthefireonthealtar,throwingupitssharpdartingtonguesoff

29、lame,itscloudsoffragrantsmoke,givingwarmthandsignificanceandafieryhearttoasombreshrine.此外,牛津处处都充斥着青春的活力,看着那些身形矫健、风华正茂的年轻人,总能感到无限的喜悦。这些快活乐观、精神奕奕的年轻人身体棒、有事做、有乐找、有朋友,也有伴侣这可都是生活中的至礼。这些朝气澎湃、振奋人心的生命穿梭在牛津城暗淡却壮丽的建筑间,给牛津增添了一道内在的光辉。他们的生活尽有憧憬、有激奋、有情感;它没有疑虑,失望或是疲惫,就像是圣坛之火,吐着跳动的火舌,燃起芳香的烟雾,给这阴暗的圣祠增添了暖意和肃穆,惹得人心里便如

30、火焰般炽热。AndsoitisthatOxfordisinasortamagneticpoleforEngland;apolenot,perhaps,ofintellectualenergy,orstrenuousliberalism,orglamorousaims,orpoliticalideas;few,perhaps,ofthesturdyforcesthatmakeEnglandpotentlygreat,centrethere.ThegreatnessofEnglandis,Isuppose,madeupbyherbreezy,loud-voicedsailors,herlively

31、,pluckysoldiers,herardent,undefeatedmerchants,hertranquiladministrators;bythestubbornadventurousspiritthatmakesitselfathomeeverywhere,andfindsitnaturaltoassumeresponsibilities.而且,牛津也已成为整个英国的磁心,这或许不是智慧力量之心、顽强自由主义之心、高声喧嚣目标之心或是政治理想之心,也不太可能是坚韧力量之心,使英国变得强大有力、举足轻重。在我看来,英国的伟大之处源于她傲慢、粗犷的水手,她活泼、勇敢的战士,她热切、不败的

32、商人和她镇定的官员,还有她顽固的进取精神,这种精神使英国在四面八方都有她的殖民地,使英国出自本性地担负起她应担的责任。ButtoOxfordsetthecurrentsofwhatmaybecalledintellectualemotion,theidealsthatmaynotmakeforimmediatenationalgreatness,butwhich,ifdelicatelyandfaithfullynurtured,holdoutatleastahopeofaffectingtheintellectualandspirituallifeoftheworld.Thereissome

33、thingaboutOxfordwhichisnotintheleasttypicalofEngland,buttypicalofthelargerbrotherhoodthatisindependentofnationalities;thatisakintothespiritwhichinanylandandineveryagehasproducedimperishablemonumentsoftheardenthumansoul.ThetribeofOxfordisthetribefromwhoseheartsprangthePsalmsofDavid;HomerandSophocles,PlatoandVirgil,

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